Angelo Posted December 23, 2014 Share #1 Posted December 23, 2014 And the hits just keep on coming. So the battery showed up today (thanks skydoc_17) and I put it in and she fired right up. Just as a double check since I was there I checked for charging voltage and I only had 12.30. I increased the idle and it only went up .2-.3 volts and the longer it ran the lower the voltage dropped. My background being with cars not motorcycles I'm asking here, where do you start with these? Is there fuses for the charging system on these or do I go straight to the regulator? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcarl Posted December 23, 2014 Share #2 Posted December 23, 2014 Easy tings first. Check the wiring and connectors coming from the regulator and the stator. If they are clean and in good shape the the bets are on the stator. Do a search on stator repair and that will give you the checks needed to come up with a conclusion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted December 23, 2014 Share #3 Posted December 23, 2014 Here ya go http://www.venturerider.org/forum/general-tech-library-read-only-/81297-testing-battery-charging.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Angelo Posted December 23, 2014 Author Share #4 Posted December 23, 2014 Will the bike start and run if the main fuse is blown? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yammer Dan Posted December 23, 2014 Share #5 Posted December 23, 2014 No. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Angelo Posted December 25, 2014 Author Share #6 Posted December 25, 2014 (edited) I need to get pictures up to make sure I'm testing the right wire, I pulled the left side cover to check the stator and there is only one 3 pin connector there so I'm sure it's the right one. Also, I pulled the rubber cover off the bleeder at the rear of the stator cover and checked for continuity between the wires coming out from the cover and the connector and it's definitely there. The problem is, 2 of the 3 wires coming out of the cover (can't get to the 3rd one) have continuity on pin A and pins A and B both test to ground. Edited December 25, 2014 by Angelo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Angelo Posted December 25, 2014 Author Share #7 Posted December 25, 2014 ^^^^^^^Behind the left side cover ^^^^^^3 pin connector ^^^^^^Wires coming out of Stator cover Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Angelo Posted December 25, 2014 Author Share #8 Posted December 25, 2014 When I checked to see how many ohms the wires had (A-B and A-C) neither one would give me a reading, basically wide open. If I'm on the right harness it means I need a stator, unless I'm missing something so I'm once again asking if you guys have any suggestions on upgrades or where to look for one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Angelo Posted December 25, 2014 Author Share #9 Posted December 25, 2014 One other question I have is, in the manual it says there is supposed to be a 2 pin connector near the 3 pin connector and the only one I see goes to the fuel pump. It's also black and all the pictures I can find are white. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted December 25, 2014 Share #10 Posted December 25, 2014 You got the wrong 3 pin connector. The one you are after has much bigger wires, and all 3 wires are the same color. Usually white or yellow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Angelo Posted December 25, 2014 Author Share #11 Posted December 25, 2014 2 wires in the first picture are the only 2 connectors behind the cover aside from the 4 wire connector at the relay. Where else would they be and can you test this circuit at the R/R? Also, why would I be getting continuity from those 2 wires coming out of the stator cover and that connector I showed pictured? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted December 25, 2014 Share #12 Posted December 25, 2014 Not knowing what the connector you found is, continuity may be a good thing. The 2 small wires coming out of the stator cover are probably the pickup coil for the ignition timing where a very low resistance would be a good thing. Yes you can do all of the tests at the RR end of the stator wires. On the 2nd gens the charging system is electrically the same as the 1st gen, but everything is in different places so I can not help you find the parts you are looking for, I have a 1st gen. Just have to follow the wires till you get there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rougeray Posted December 25, 2014 Share #13 Posted December 25, 2014 I may be able to give you a little help as I’m having problems with my charging system on a 07 RSV. I would suggest you read my thread in this Forum and it should give you some ideas where to look and some testing ideas. The Title is “Charging system not working” and it was started by me, rougeray. First off I suggest you start your testing at the regulator/rectifier. It is located under the radiator and above the oil filter. You will need to take the lower right hand fairing off. There are two bolts that hold the R/R on. One is a real bear to get to but I was able to get to it with a ¼” ratchet and socket. Remove the R/R and disconnect the wiring harness, It has 5 wires, 3 white (from stator) 1 black (the ground) 1 red output of the R/R to the battery. Inspect the connector for burning. Start doing the test procedure thatFlyinfool gave you a link to. Your gonna need a good volt ohm meter. Quick and easy test for the stator is putting your meter on volts A/C. This is one of the tests Flyinfool has listed towards the end. Then start the bike rev it up and hold that setting (I did that by putting vise grips on the throttle to hold it in place). Then take the leads of the meter and put one on the no. 1 wire the other on the no. 2 wire. It should be up around 100 vac. Then move the probes to wires no. 2 and 3 then to 3 and 1. All should be close together at or around 100 vac. Mine checked out at 1-2 98 vac 2-3 92 vac 3-1 76 vac Hmm 1&2 look ok (close) 3 not so close. I did this earlier using the choke to speed the engine up and got 1-2 68 vac 2-3 64 vac 3-1 54 vac Hmm not so close. Here is a link to the wiring schematic http://www.venturerider.org/wiring/99-09%20Yamaha%20Royal%20Star%20Venture%20Wiring%20Diagram%20Rev%20B.pdf. I see only one connector between the stator wires coming from the stator and the connector that connects to the R/R. With the seat pulled you maybe able to see it from the left side of the bike but it is buried. To get to it you will have to remove the battery box. Look for a connector that has 3 white wires in and 3 out. Mine looked ok. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Angelo Posted December 25, 2014 Author Share #14 Posted December 25, 2014 Tested the stator at the R/R harness and resistance is good on all pins but when I started it I had correct idle voltage that dropped off as soon as the bike warmed up. As soon as the temperature started to come on the voltage even at ~4000 rpm would not get over 15 volts. If someone can help me locate the harness that's supposed to be behind the cover that would be awesome. I read an article about issues these supposedly have at the connection where they say you can eliminate the connector by just soldering the wires together but I can't even see where someone would have done that. I've even pulled the battery and tray and still don't see the connector that should be there. I followed the harness from the R/R up the frame until it goes under the tank, and then over the air box. I haven't pulled the coolant tank but I don't want to pull any more apart than necessary so I'm hoping someone can tell me for sure where they've seen it. I can always start following from the Stator when I take it apart, but I'd like to know where it is before I start so I can test and eliminate possible connection issues if there are any. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wizard765 Posted December 25, 2014 Share #15 Posted December 25, 2014 the 3 pin connector from the stator IS under the drivers seat and behind the battery box. It IS buried and a pig to find. First time I did this it took longer to find that plug than to change the stator.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Angelo Posted December 25, 2014 Author Share #16 Posted December 25, 2014 the 3 pin connector from the stator IS under the drivers seat and behind the battery box. It IS buried and a pig to find. First time I did this it took longer to find that plug than to change the stator.. Is it toward the shock or fuel tank, in other words, would it be towards the front or rear of the battery box? I got irritated enough trying to find it this morning I stopped working on it and changed my clothes and wrote it off until tomorrow. I'll take a stab at it later today I'm sure, but I want some guidance before I go back out in my garage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Angelo Posted December 25, 2014 Author Share #17 Posted December 25, 2014 Also, anyone have any suggestions on a new stator? Is there an upgraded stator for these bikes like one with higher output I can look for. I prefer to support board members so if anyone on here sells them, let me know so I can buy one from you. For the guys that have changed them, other than a gasket and oil, is there anything else that I'll need when changing the stator? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Angelo Posted December 25, 2014 Author Share #18 Posted December 25, 2014 the 3 pin connector from the stator IS under the drivers seat and behind the battery box. It IS buried and a pig to find. First time I did this it took longer to find that plug than to change the stator.. I pulled the coolant tank and found this connector It goes down to the coils under the bike toward the rear and one of the coil wires was off which makes me wonder why it runs so smooth. Looking at the schematic that was posted it doesn't seem like that should effect the stator, someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I still can't find that damn connector I've been looking for. If it would keep it from charging I'll put everything needed to make it run back together and retest it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted December 26, 2014 Share #19 Posted December 26, 2014 When you change a stator you will need 2 gaskets and a crush washer. You have to pull the middle gear cover before you can get to the the stator cover. The bottom screw of the middle gear cover has a crush washer under the screw head. If you forget this washer it WILL leak oil.You will also need a tube of black RTV sealant to seal up where the wires come thru the cover. You can get a Higher output stator, BUT none of the HO stators seem to live as long as the OEM stator, AND if you HO stator you must also go with a HO RR to realize the full benifit of the HO stator. Stators and RRs can be had from Skydoc_17 on this site. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Angelo Posted December 26, 2014 Author Share #20 Posted December 26, 2014 Thank you Flyinfool for the help, I'll contact skydoc for the parts I need Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wizard765 Posted December 26, 2014 Share #21 Posted December 26, 2014 To get to the plug I had to take off both side covers and the middle one under the seat. That pic is what the plug looks like but the wires should all be one color. Mine were white. You are in the right area. One side of the plug goes down and into the stator. The other side goes forward to the regulator. So the plug us under the seat towards the back of the bike and also under the battery box. We found that we had to loosen the left side exhaust pipes to be able to comfortably get the stator cover off without damaging the chrome. 1st gen was easier. I used a Rick's Stator and it seems very good. Aftermarket Parts Finder - Rick's Motorsport Electrics Store or on eBay 99 05 Yamaha XVZ1300TF Royal Star Venture Rick's Motorsport Stator 21 412H | eBay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayceesfolly Posted December 26, 2014 Share #22 Posted December 26, 2014 I also have the Rick's HO output stator in my 1st Gen and I also added a Shindengan FH012AA Regulator/Rectifier to handle the increased voltage and amps. It has worked flawlessly for two years now. It now charges at an idle (at 14.5 volts), which the stock Yama stator did not do. Also I wired the output of the R/R direct to the battery and did not use the bikes wiring harness. I feel that this will eliminate any potential problem in the wiring harness from disrupting the charging circuit. The R/R can monitor the battery directly and maintain a stable electrical system better. Shindengan makes a newer version of the R/R than the FH012AA, so you should do some investigating on the latest model number for your bike. Search for threads on the Shindengan R/R for more details. Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Angelo Posted January 1, 2015 Author Share #23 Posted January 1, 2015 When changing the Stator on the RSV, do you have to drain the oil or do you just loose a little when you pull the cover? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Du-Rron Posted January 23, 2015 Share #24 Posted January 23, 2015 The 3 pin connector is under the seat, behind the center cover, behind the vent lines, lower than the fuel filter, and is marked by a blue marker in this picture and has 3 white wires on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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