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Did My First Carb Sync - Now a ?


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Fellas I got a question. Bought a carbtune and attempted sync last Sat. Went by directions in tech section.

When I hooked it up and cranked the bike the rods started bouncing in time to the engine. Are they supposed to do that?

Even thou they were moving with the engine idling, I still adjusted them to as close as I could get. When I revved the throttle, they moved then became stationary.

Did I do this correct?

Am I missing something?

Do the rods jump in time to the engine?

Bike seems to be running great.

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Fellas I got a question. Bought a carbtune and attempted sync last Sat. Went by directions in tech section.

When I hooked it up and cranked the bike the rods started bouncing in time to the engine. Are they supposed to do that?

Even thou they were moving with the engine idling, I still adjusted them to as close as I could get. When I revved the throttle, they moved then became stationary.

Did I do this correct?

Am I missing something?

Do the rods jump in time to the engine?

Bike seems to be running great.

 

When the bike is running the rods will move up and down to the engine. You are looking to be as accurate as possible with carbs 1&2, 3&4 and then sync L.side and R side. Maybe someone else can chime in with more knowledge, but you still will have them " jumping" slightly. When hitting throttle, they will jump higher, but should settle down fairly quickly and evenly.

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When the bike is running the rods will move up and down to the engine. You are looking to be as accurate as possible with carbs 1&2, 3&4 and then sync L.side and R side. Maybe someone else can chime in with more knowledge, but you still will have them " jumping" slightly. When hitting throttle, they will jump higher, but should settle down fairly quickly and evenly.

Sounds about right!!!

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When the bike is running the rods will move up and down to the engine. You are looking to be as accurate as possible with carbs 1&2, 3&4 and then sync L.side and R side. Maybe someone else can chime in with more knowledge, but you still will have them " jumping" slightly. When hitting throttle, they will jump higher, but should settle down fairly quickly and evenly.

 

 

:sign yeah that::sign yeah that:

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I still have a set of the mercury-based synch tools - even these move as you have described, though not quite as much.

 

So yes, you are tuning the pair, the other pair, then the two pairs. A long screwdriver is very useful for this task. You will notice immediate results in riding, and will want to revisit this procedure if you readjust the idle screws or if your machine is working out built-up carb residue from sitting.

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I remember something about raising the idel up a few hundred RPM too. I belive that will take some of the pulse out also.

 

also don't push too firmly against the screws when adjusting. I bought a long Phillips screw driver at HF and took the handle off, cut about 6-8" off the shaft and put the handle back on. Sure made getting across to 1&2 adj. screw easier. yes I measured before cutting.

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the bars will jump because the vacuum is only when the intake stroke is pulling the gas/air mixture into the cylinder. you need to try to keep the motor around 1k rpms to keep it pretty steady. as you adjust the screws you'll hear it change some, either slow down or speed up, according to how bad their off. sometimes the setting will change with just pushing on the screws, best to blib the throttle a little after a few turns, just to let the linkage set back down incase binding of rods, springs and cables. it's not really a hard job if you go step by step slowly. you'll fell the difference if they are out of sync some.

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