marcsmith Posted January 31, 2014 Share #1 Posted January 31, 2014 Well, in the process of changing my valve shims I turned the motor with no shims in the number two intake buckets. Got it freed but snapped a small corner of the bucket off. It seems to me those shims are still in there pretty good as you really have to pry the to get them out. What do you all think? Thanks. Oh and I bought a shim kit should have bought a bunch of 2.70 because that is what I need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
etcswjoe Posted January 31, 2014 Share #2 Posted January 31, 2014 I personally would replace the bucket, it may be fine but I would not want to take the risk. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marcsmith Posted January 31, 2014 Author Share #3 Posted January 31, 2014 how hard is it to change the bucket? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcarl Posted January 31, 2014 Share #4 Posted January 31, 2014 I would be more worried about the missing piece and where it went than the bucket. The bucket doesn't go anywhere, and no need of balancing, so should be just fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
etcswjoe Posted January 31, 2014 Share #5 Posted January 31, 2014 how hard is it to change the bucket? I have never done it on one of these engines but looking at the service manual it does not look too difficult just involved. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marcsmith Posted January 31, 2014 Author Share #6 Posted January 31, 2014 Thanks for the advice. I have the piece so that is not an issue. I guess I will see if it is still diffucult to pry up as before to determine if I leave it or not Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frankd Posted January 31, 2014 Share #7 Posted January 31, 2014 What makes the shim hard to move is the pool of oil between the bucket and shim. This creates a seal between the bucket and shim, and air can't easily move into this gap when you try and remove the shim. If you wipe the shim and bucket dry, it'll come right up. If there is oil in the bucket, and you turn the engine over (this causes all of the air between the shim and bucket to be expelled), it'll act like they're glued together. However, look at the cam and make sure there aren't any burrs on it. If there are, carefully smooth it out with emery paper and wipe it clean afterwards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IronMike Posted January 31, 2014 Share #8 Posted January 31, 2014 Forget the Manual what is the real world experience on having to adjust the valves. On my Roadstar I can't remember the service interval. but at 70K miles mine hasn't been touched. And thats what others say, Wondering if the Venture does as good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted January 31, 2014 Share #9 Posted January 31, 2014 The problem with not checking the valves is that there are no symptoms of the adjustment being off. As the parts wear the clearance actually gets tighter. The first symptom is when it gets tight to the point that the valve no longer closes completely and you burn up the valve. There have been some people on here that had valves way out at 30K, others that have not checked till 60-70K and they were still good. How good did someone set yours up the day the bike was built? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djh3 Posted January 31, 2014 Share #10 Posted January 31, 2014 On the bucket issue: Where the piece broke off is it preventing the shim from being installed and seated fully? If you have the piece and the shim still installs correctly and its less then say an 1/8 or so of the lip I think I would run it. Unless you happen to have the spare parts. As far as changing it...... I just finnished a valve check on mine @ 30K All the intakes were out and one exhaust I think was not where I wanted it (on the close side) I belive that to replace the bucket the cam is going to have to come out. That mean retimming the cams etc. When installing the "new" shim I allways try to give the shim a tap with something like a screw driver or brass drift to make sure it is seated OK. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcarl Posted January 31, 2014 Share #11 Posted January 31, 2014 What makes the shim hard to move is the pool of oil between the bucket and shim. This creates a seal between the bucket and shim, and air can't easily move into this gap when you try and remove the shim. If you wipe the shim and bucket dry, it'll come right up. If there is oil in the bucket, and you turn the engine over (this causes all of the air between the shim and bucket to be expelled), it'll act like they're glued together. However, look at the cam and make sure there aren't any burrs on it. If there are, carefully smooth it out with emery paper and wipe it clean afterwards. Now I wouldn't be wiping any oil out, seeing as it will change the clearance, and the slight change will be slight but tighter so it will not be noticed. Leave the oil in there because it will work it's way in there anyways. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marcsmith Posted January 31, 2014 Author Share #12 Posted January 31, 2014 the shim still seats and the piece that is missing is less than an eighth of an inch so I think I am good to go just waiting on shims and valve cover gaskets. Going to do the ignition relay while I wait. Thanks for all the help. Oh and all my intakes were out of spec and two of my exhaust 29,000 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DarrinGT Posted January 31, 2014 Share #13 Posted January 31, 2014 One thing to check is does the bucket spin freely in the head like the other buckets do? If so I would run it also. If you want to replace it I have an extra bucket I will send you, I just did this myself, not a hard job, Let me know if you want more info about pulling the cam,I would be happy to help. Just don't have time to type it all out right now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marcsmith Posted February 1, 2014 Author Share #14 Posted February 1, 2014 Thanks for the offer the bucket does spin freely like the others so I think I will run it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted February 1, 2014 Share #15 Posted February 1, 2014 Just give it as close of a look all the way around for any cracks as possible. Use a magnifying glass. also give the one next to it a close inspection, the forces that broke that piece off were also present on the cup next to it. You do not want another piece breaking off after the engine is buttoned up and finding its way to a gear:scared:. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djh3 Posted February 1, 2014 Share #16 Posted February 1, 2014 Marc have you got a relay kit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ragtop69gs Posted February 1, 2014 Share #17 Posted February 1, 2014 You do not want another piece breaking off after the engine is buttoned up and finding its way to a gear:scared:. That's a Fact. I just bought an old Gravely 4 wheel tractor for parts, the PO had just got done rebuilding the engine and didn't correctly install the spur gear on the crank, the result was the spur gear moving and letting the woodruff key drop into the trans and lodging itself between 2 straight cut gears and cracking the trans case like a walnut. Bad for him, good for me as I got lots of good parts for cheap. Another plus to that find was the guy used to own a RSV and threw in a Yamaha trunk rack bag and saddlebag liners on the deal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djh3 Posted February 1, 2014 Share #18 Posted February 1, 2014 So what your actually sayin is you paid for the bags and got all that steel for free? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marcsmith Posted February 1, 2014 Author Share #19 Posted February 1, 2014 I do not have a relay kit I just followed the tech guide in here and cut and spliced. On a side note while I had the carbs out I did a float set. Was wondering where Goose got the spec for that I have looked and can not find it in a repair manual. Have not got it back together yet to see how it runs will not get my shims till Wed or Thur Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ragtop69gs Posted February 1, 2014 Share #20 Posted February 1, 2014 So what your actually sayin is you paid for the bags and got all that steel for free? Pretty much. Only gave him $100 for all of it. Just the parts I wanted for my tractor would have cost me over $600 and the parts I got off it were almost like new. As a bonus there's enough parts I didn't use and will sell off, that I should make a profit when all is said and done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Butler Posted February 2, 2014 Share #21 Posted February 2, 2014 If the break is clean with no burrs that will rub...... and the bucket will still accept a shim without any issues, your bucket will be ok. Oh, to remove a bucket, you have to remove the cams....so if you have to do this, you'd better have access to a shop manual. Well, in the process of changing my valve shims I turned the motor with no shims in the number two intake buckets. Got it freed but snapped a small corner of the bucket off. It seems to me those shims are still in there pretty good as you really have to pry the to get them out. What do you all think? Thanks. Oh and I bought a shim kit should have bought a bunch of 2.70 because that is what I need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djh3 Posted February 2, 2014 Share #22 Posted February 2, 2014 Just read a post from him. I think he is all in on the cam removal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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