Pegasus1300 Posted December 11, 2013 Share #26 Posted December 11, 2013 The Ventures were the standard model produced from 1983 to 1988 The Venture Royals were the upgraded model produced from 1983 t0 1993 Royal Stars were produced in various models from 1996 t0 2002 Royal Star Venture and Venture S were touring models produced from 1999 t0 2013 Royal Star Tour Deluxe was a touring cruiser(similar to a Road King) produced from 2005 to 2009. Again all were V4's Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prairiehammer Posted December 11, 2013 Share #27 Posted December 11, 2013 DNA 1983 to 1992 Venture/Venture Royale 2 brush starter 1996 to 2002 Royal Star all models 4 brush starter 1999 to 2013 Royal Star Venture 4 brush starter 2005 to 2009 Royal Star Tour Deluxe 4 brush starter All the above use the 1200/1300 v4 motor with some variations in the internals and carbs and transmission. Hope this helps on the confusion. Paul is mostly correct, except: the 1991-1993 First Generation Venture Royale came from the factory with four brush starter. Two ways to identify a four brush starter without taking the starter apart: On the end cap there are cast-in numbers. A two brush starter will have Mitsuba SM-229 or similar (it may be 229x), while a four brush starter end cap will show Mitsuba SM-13xxx. The other, easier way to differentiate two brush from four brush: If there is a large Phillips screw head showing on the side/barrel of the starter it is PROBABLY a two brush. If there are no Phillips screw heads showing on the starter it is a four brush. This last identifier is not 100% confirmed, but I have yet to see a Venture Mitsuba two brush starter without that screw. The screw holds the field coils onto the starter case. Later four brush field coils are secured with some form of adhesive instead of a screw. It is not to say that ALL Mitsuba SM-13xxx starters will work on a Venture. Mounting points, starter motor rotation and the number of teeth are all pertinent. The SM-13xxx is a SERIES of Mitsuba starters. Various forms of SM-13xxx starters are used on a bunch of disparate Japanese motorcycles. Here is a pic of a Mitsuba two brush starter with the tell tale screw. And a pic of a SM-13 endplate, showing the cast in number. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prairiehammer Posted December 12, 2013 Share #28 Posted December 12, 2013 Showing my ignorance here, WHAT year do the "2nd gens" start? With the 1300 motor or the name/body style change? Doug, when speaking of the VENTURE, the second generation began in 1999 as the Royal Star Venture (RSV). As Paul says, the First Generation Venture is from 1983 to 1993. Within the First Generation Venture saga is the Mark 1 (MKI) from 1983 through 1985. A Mark 2 (MKII) First Generation Venture is a 1986 through 1993. All MKI First Gen Ventures are 1200cc. All MKII First Gen Ventures are 1300cc. There are differences between model years within the MKI genre as well as differences between model years within the MKII group. MKI Ventures are XVZ12(x) and MKII Ventures are XVZ13(x) There are also two generations of Royal Star XVZ1300. The first Royal Star (RS) was in 1996. I am not certain what year the second generation RS started. Confusingly, all Yamaha V-Fours from 1986 to 2013 are grouped into the XVZ13 group. The suffix after XVZ13 determines the model. For instance: 1986 Venture Royale is properly called a XVZ13DS. A 1987 Royale is a XVZ13DT. Your 1985 Royale is a XVZ12DN. Your 1983(1/2) Royale is a XVZ12DKC2. I hope that clears up some things for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Howard B Posted December 12, 2013 Share #29 Posted December 12, 2013 Now I know what to look for. Thanks for the info. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pegasus1300 Posted December 12, 2013 Share #30 Posted December 12, 2013 Thanks Kevin I forgot about the change in 1991. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yammer Dan Posted December 12, 2013 Share #31 Posted December 12, 2013 CONFUSED DNA??? Welcome Home!! :clap2:You should fit right in.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KIC Posted December 13, 2013 Share #32 Posted December 13, 2013 And to add to the confusion, the 94-98 Ventures had no brushes at all. This might help: http://www.venturerider.org/history.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yammer Dan Posted December 14, 2013 Share #33 Posted December 14, 2013 And to add to the confusion, the 94-98 Ventures had no brushes at all. This might help: http://www.venturerider.org/history.htm And less problems than all the others!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fixit3546 Posted December 14, 2013 Author Share #34 Posted December 14, 2013 the battery is installed. it is AGM technology. it is a Super Start Platinum and it is heavy. Heco En E.U.A. (made in U.S.A.) seems to have plenty of current available, but the CCA rating isn't listed on the box. Now, to see how it holds up! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Howard B Posted December 16, 2013 Share #35 Posted December 16, 2013 After buying a new battery I was still having problems starting. Must be something else wrong, right. I pulled the battery cables loose and sanded them to a nice shiny condition. Much better result. Now my question is, where have they hidden the common ground on the frame? Any info will be much appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camos Posted December 17, 2013 Share #36 Posted December 17, 2013 I just purchased this one for my '83 4 days ago Amazon.com: Deka Sports Power ETX-18L: Sports & Outdoors I have one in my '86 and love it! Thought I would chime in with this: I have been looking for a Deka ETX18L battery too and the best price I could find in Canada was $109.50 at Sask Battery which includes Canada wide free shipping. Seems like a good deal to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasonm. Posted December 26, 2013 Share #37 Posted December 26, 2013 FYI- ETX18L battery is available in the states for approx. $90 at you local Advance Auto. I am not sure who makes it or where? That is easily checked. October 2013 season I bought a Yuasa AGM $100 made is USA. LIKE ALL Bike batteries, before starting the bike, you should charge the battery. This size requires 10+ hours using a 2 amp charger or 24hrs using a 1 amp charge. Otherwise you will have less reserve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texasrices Posted February 10, 2014 Share #38 Posted February 10, 2014 I am looking for a new battery for my 2006 Midnight Venture. It looks like the replacement is an ETX20L. Why does Autozone carry a Duralast Gold but only has a 3 month warranty, while Oreilly has a Super Start for a 1 year warranty? All of the specs are identical. What am I missing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdross440 Posted August 6, 2014 Share #39 Posted August 6, 2014 Apparently Advance has gone to a different manufacturer for their ETX18L. It is a different brand and the warranty is only 90 days now instead of the 1 year when I bought mine 2 years ago last month. It says it's an Autocraft distributed by Autocraft in Virginia. I believe mine is starting to go bad as this morning the voltage on my external digital meter is showing only 11.5 volts on the highway. Yesterday it was 13.2. I have a high output stator from Ricks and regulator from Sky_doc (both 2 years old). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted August 6, 2014 Share #40 Posted August 6, 2014 Apparently Advance has gone to a different manufacturer for their ETX18L. It is a different brand and the warranty is only 90 days now instead of the 1 year when I bought mine 2 years ago last month. It says it's an Autocraft distributed by Autocraft in Virginia. I believe mine is starting to go bad as this morning the voltage on my external digital meter is showing only 11.5 volts on the highway. Yesterday it was 13.2. I have a high output stator from Ricks and regulator from Sky_doc (both 2 years old). 13.2 and 11.5V on the highway are both lower than they should be. I would check out the charging system before spending on a new battery. Even 2 year old parts can go bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdross440 Posted August 6, 2014 Share #41 Posted August 6, 2014 (edited) I mounted the regulator on the bottom of the rear trunk where I can see and feel it. It was warm but not hot this morning after riding 20 miles. If it's the stator again, I am ready to give up as this would be the 3rd in 14K miles. The original went out at 51K miles. I replaced it with a high output (don't remember what company/brand), it lasted 7K miles, then one from sky_doc that lasted 300 miles (he apparently had gotten a bad batch) and the one that's in there now from Ricks with 4500 miles. It had set for a week and half while we were on vacation and when I started it Monday to go to work it almost didn't start. It fired off (but cranked slower than normal) and died and then cranked really slow. I can disconnect the battery and connect in my spare car battery and see if the voltage comes up. That would be the fastest way to check to see if the charging system is working. I will check out the system this weekend. Edited August 7, 2014 by jdross440 Had mileage wrong Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil86 Posted August 6, 2014 Share #42 Posted August 6, 2014 Just a suggestion, but since you relocated the RR to the back of the bike, you might want to do some voltage drop testing across any connection points between the RR and the original harness. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdross440 Posted August 6, 2014 Share #43 Posted August 6, 2014 I soldered all the joints except for a connector within 6 inches of regulator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted August 6, 2014 Share #44 Posted August 6, 2014 Before you buy one at O'rileys, be sure its NOT Made in China !! I bought one for the CX-500, AGM type, Only lasted about 10MO. Get the U.S. made DEKA, And The Bike Masters sold by Harley Stores are made in Taiwan. Stick with the DEKA. US made, and worth every penny. The difference between the 18 and the 20 has nothing to do with CC capacity, although the 18 does have a few more CC's than the 20. They are different foot prints, and will fit the battery box made for the OEM Yuasa's. 18 is 1stGen, and 20 is 2ndGen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdross440 Posted August 7, 2014 Share #45 Posted August 7, 2014 (edited) DEKA makes good batteries for many applications. I use one in my 92 Dodge diesel (one 1250 CCA) and usually get 5 or 6 years before they give trouble and it's lead acid. For $110 can't beat it. I emailed Advance and asked them where their battery was made now, here's their answer for what it's worth: "Advance Auto Parts does sell Made in the USA products as well as products manufactured from many other countries in order to keep our pricing competitive. Please also keep in mind that many suppliers have multiple manufacturing plants that could result in different countries of origin for the same part." Edited August 7, 2014 by jdross440 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mralex714 Posted August 7, 2014 Share #46 Posted August 7, 2014 I mounted the regulator on the bottom of the rear trunk where I can see and feel it. It was warm but not hot this morning after riding 20 miles. If it's the stator again, I am ready to give up as this would be the 3rd in 14K miles. The original went out at 51K miles. I replaced it with a high output (don't remember what company/brand), it lasted 7K miles, then one from sky_doc that lasted 300 miles (he apparently had gotten a bad batch) and the one that's in there now from Ricks with 4500 miles. It had set for a week and half while we were on vacation and when I started it Monday to go to work it almost didn't start. It fired off (but cranked slower than normal) and died and then cranked really slow. I can disconnect the battery and connect in my spare car battery and see if the voltage comes up. That would be the fastest way to check to see if the charging system is working. I will check out the system this weekend. I know your bike is a 1990, but is there a stator cooling kit installed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdross440 Posted August 7, 2014 Share #47 Posted August 7, 2014 (edited) What is the kit? I know from 90-93 the stock stator part number is different than the 86-89. Of course the 90-93 is no longer available new. Only 86-89 is available from several sources, and the price is much cheaper than the 90-93 if it was available. Everything that came out to replace the stator went back in. I believe the high output ones just run too hot and burn up. The only extra load on mine is a pair of 35 watt driving lights and I hardly use them since I'm out at night seldom where I can use them. However it may not be the stator this time. I will trace the wiring to see if maybe a wire came loose at a connection or the ground may have came loose. I will put the battery on my 2 amp maintainer charger tonight and see if it will charge up by weekend. Edited August 7, 2014 by jdross440 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil86 Posted August 7, 2014 Share #48 Posted August 7, 2014 Where is your external voltmeter connected.....directly to battery posts or on the bike harness. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdross440 Posted August 7, 2014 Share #49 Posted August 7, 2014 (edited) Tied in downstream of the the ignition switch so it doesn't draw power when the key is in the off position. The factory meter is showing low voltage too, when stopped with brakes on it drops to the top of the yellow and the digital will drop to around 10.5. They seem to follow each other closely. Looking at this sight, it appears from 86 on the kit was factory installed and without going deeper into the engine you can't see it, the wire anyway: http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/?action=article&cat_id=001007&id=413 Edited August 7, 2014 by jdross440 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mralex714 Posted August 7, 2014 Share #50 Posted August 7, 2014 (edited) Tied in downstream of the the ignition switch so it doesn't draw power when the key is in the off position. The factory meter is showing low voltage too, when stopped with brakes on it drops to the top of the yellow and the digital will drop to around 10.5. They seem to follow each other closely. Looking at this sight, it appears from 86 on the kit was factory installed and without going deeper into the engine you can't see it, the wire anyway: http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/?action=article&cat_id=001007&id=413 The anti dive is probably the cause for the low voltage with the brakes engaged. http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-VMAX-VENTURE-STATOR-COIL-OIL-COOLING-KIT-NEW-SET-90891-30014-90105-12374-/360783776444?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5400638abc&vxp=mtr Edited August 7, 2014 by mralex714 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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