Maxum 10w60 Oil- Clutch Whine

[yuckly]

I proceed with caution because people are "passionate" about what works for them...

 

I recently got an oil change after ... a bit longer than it should have been... and they used what was recommended and what they had and I noticed a considerable change in the clutch whine.

 

my previous mechanic - who is unfortunately out of commission for awhile due to health problems - used Maxima Maxum Extra 4 Synthetic 10w60 oil in my RSTD and now I remember why. The Maxum is engineered for Wet Clutches, heat reduction, etc. The oil did wonders for the clutch whine which most people observe gets worse as the bike heats up.

 

for product info:

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/7376/i/maxima-maxum4-extra-oil

http://www.stevecramerproducts.com.au/brands/index.cfm?fuseaction=display_product&product_id=1147&B=10&BT=1

 

 

Big difference! I live in the moderate climate of SE North Carolina, so I feel the viscosity is fine for all year...

 

I look forward to your responses!

[greg_in_london]

Errr - I'm not quite clear what you're saying. What has made the difference ? The oil change ? Did you use a thinner oil ? Is it running hotter, colder, faster, slower or is the whine back.

 

I didn't understand from your post either what is different about your new oil or what the effect has been.

[yuckly]

Hey greg:

 

The most recent oil change used a Valvoline 10w40 as opposed to the 10w60 Maxum. The whine has since gotten worse.

 

The Maxum 10w60 is a synthetic ester-oil based racing oil that is specifically designed for "wet clutch" applications. The Advanced proprietary Tri-Metallic formula lowers engine temperatures, reduces friction, increases film strength and extends oil drain intervals.

 

Therefore, I noticed less clutch whine across the board.

 

Hope this clarifies?

[RandyR]

Yikes. $54/gallon (on sale). it should be verrry good.

 

I hadn't heard of it before.

[MikeWa]

If the whine has gotten worse get that oil out of there. These bikes seem to be oil sensitive. With no common denominator. This happened to mine after an oil change. Then even after switching back to Yamalube it took quite a few miles for the whine to subside.

 

Mike

[yuckly]

I hear ya!

[yuckly]

I ran the Valvoline 10w40 synthetic for 3k. I had to wait to budget in the new Maxima Maxum Extra4 10w60 and the K&N filter- $64 total off eBay for a gallon of the oil and a chrome filter.

 

My friends... I cannot emphasize enough how much of a difference there is in the overall sound of the engine and performance of the transmission.

 

I was hearing clicketty clakkin lifters, noisy and slipping clutch and it whined thru all the gears. Now it is silent and runs like a .... um.... well oiled machine!

 

Could not be happier. If you think that your engine and tranny sounds smooth and quiet, it might be even smoother with this oil?

 

I would love to hear from another member if they try the Maxum Extra 4 10w60 and their opinion.

 

Ride Safe!

[RedRider]

Go with what works for you. I find my clutch doesn't behave as well with synthetic oil as with the dino stuff. Do not and have not ever had the dreaded clutch whine. The clutch just doesn't seem to hook up as well with the synthetic.

 

The clutches are designed by the Yamaha engineers to be used with petroleum (dino) motorcycle oil (does not have the friction modifiers that are in standard Energy Conserving car oil).

 

If the Maxum oil makes your engine and clutch smoother and quieter, that is fantastic that you found the combination. Many others don't ever find this match.

 

Thanks for letting us know about this new lube. I was not aware of this brand previously. Although, at the cost, I will stick with the white jug from Walmart.

[bongobobny]

To me the 60 weight seems a bit heavy, but if it works then more power to it...

[saddlebum]

I also prefer dino oil. I ran synthetic and noticed the mechanical noises increased with synthetic. IMHO dino oil does a better job of cushioning mechanical noises such as lifter noise.

P/S Bob I don't think a 60 weight synthetic is as dense as if it were 60 weight dino oil. I think when they rate synthetic oil the classification only means it is comparable to that classification of dino oil. the oil itself actually runs a little thinner or so it seems to me. So if you were using a 10w40 dino oil you could probably get away with a 10w60 synthetic.

[MiCarl]

I suspect everything is quieter because the 10W60 probably stays on in a thicker layer, damping the sound. 10W40 might not damp the sound but shouldn't cause any problems.

 

If your clutch is slipping without the -W60 you probably have a clutch problem you are temporarily masking.

[dna9656]

Seems to me if you have a noise using the MRF. recommended viscosity oil there is a problem somewhere. Heavier oil usually MASKS noises, they don't provide any "seat of the pants" remedy to a noise problem. I remember a friend worked in a gas station back in the day when cars were repaired at gas stations...he bought a beater car, being teenagers we wanted to make it better so we drained the lube out of the rear axel to put in new stuff, what did we find? SAW DUST in the oil! It filled the space between the gears to make it more quiet!

The moral of the story is this: There is no such thing as "MECHANIC IN A CAN"

Edited December 8, 2013 by dna9656

[Barrycuda]

I actually use Mobil 1 10w30 synth, and have reduced whine and no issues that stand out.

[CaptainJoe]

Yamalube 10w30 whine...

Yamalube 10w40 no whine...

[dna9656]

10W(inter) means how the oil flows in the "winter" 30" how the oil flows on a "standard day" Multi-viscosity oil came about in the 1st half of the 60s when they started working with "polymers"; they called them "non-Newtonian" because they didn't get THINNER as they heated up, they actually got thicker with heat and thinner in the cold. Thinner oil flows faster than thick, what happens to most fluids in the cold? They get thicker...So the having said all that the 10W 40 is thicker when warm and therefore stopping the clutch chatter...

I THINK this will hold water....

Edited December 8, 2013 by dna9656

[yuckly]

Thanks all for reading my post!

[MiCarl]

Thanks all for reading my post!

 

Yeah, well... It's December and this is an oil thread so:confused24:

[yuckly]

let's argue about tires now! haha!!!

[saddlebum]

let's argue about tires now! haha!!!

I prefer ones made of rubber.

[MikeWa]

I prefer ones made of rubber.

 

 

Is that dual compound or single compound?

 

Mike

[crazygaucho]

IMHO I think the 60w oil might do very well for your clutch but........... remember you supposed to lubricate the engine too!

I'm just curious to ask to the people in this forum that have more mechanical knowledge what will happen to a modern tech engine using a such a heavy oil at star up ? that reminds me of a 31 ford model A we used to have used 600W gear oil in the differential but not in the engine

[MiCarl]

The 60 will definitely decrease fuel mileage, question is if it'll be enough to notice.

 

It's still 10w cold, so shouldn't be an issue on cold start.

 

My biggest concern would be the areas that get lubricated by splashing/spraying might not get enough lubrication. Cylinder walls in particular.

 

If I had to bet though, I'd place my money on the engine lasting 200K miles and he spends an extra $20 on fuel getting it there.

 

Oh, one more thing. I could see where the higher viscosity oil could cause some clutch drag. In this particular case though it sounds like the clutch has a problem that the high viscosity is masking. I'll repeat what I said in my earlier post: If the clutch is slipping with 10W40 there is a clutch problem.

[Pegasus1300]

so how long( miles) are you running between oil changes? I have heard of this oil before and wanted to try it but the expense put me off. I am used to changing oil every 3000 miles

[Rick Haywood]

What Whine............................

[bongobobny]

What Whine............................

Oh? You ride solo all the time??