cabreco Posted July 10, 2013 Share #1 Posted July 10, 2013 I need some advice on flooring the bike carrier. I have stripped the frame & since I was able to dead lift one side off the ground, I am assuming it weigh no more than 600LBS. My axle capacity is 2,300LBS I was originally thinking to floor it with six 2"x8"x12' pressure treated boards which would add just over 250lbs to the trailer cost $130. If I used three 3/4"x4'x8' sheets of pressure treated plywood it would be 225Lbs cost $107. The deck, regardless of what I use will sit on the crossbeams not in a recess. So my question is which wood to use? The plywood would be cheaper & the cost of the fasteners would also be cheaper vs the planks & carriage bolts but is the 3/4 strong enough & durable enough to hold the 2 bikes? (a CB750 & a Gen 1) There are plenty of cross beams to attach to, here's a pix of the trailer now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brake Pad Posted July 10, 2013 Share #2 Posted July 10, 2013 Before you start on that, stop on over to sherwin william and pick up some emulsifier, to stop the rust. it's a 16 oz plastic bottle, and is bluish green in color. put some in a spray bottle. it will kill the rust. Prime it and paint it with rustoleum paints. 2 X 10's PT with a 1/2 PT plywood over the top stainless steel, Eye loops for the tie down points Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted July 10, 2013 Share #3 Posted July 10, 2013 Plywood would not be my 1st choice. Treated 2x8 or 2x10's would seem like a better choice. Water can get between the lamination in plywood no matter how well it is sealed on something like this. Any fastener hole, between individual sheets, etc, can allow moisture to get in and accumulate, thus promoting rot. Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
playboy Posted July 10, 2013 Share #4 Posted July 10, 2013 I wood ( pun intended ) go with the 2x8 press. treated. The plywood would be strong enough and even though you stated press. treated plywood moisture could still get between the layers. IMHO the 2x8 would be more durable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phoneman1981 Posted July 10, 2013 Share #5 Posted July 10, 2013 I have replaced the floors on several trailers. Treated 2" dimension lumber, 2x6, 2x8 or 2x10 would be the best way to go. Plywood on top would be okay but not very weather resistant. Good luck with your project. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cabreco Posted July 10, 2013 Author Share #6 Posted July 10, 2013 I have replaced the floors on several trailers. Treated 2" dimension lumber, 2x6, 2x8 or 2x10 would be the best way to go. Plywood on top would be okay but not very weather resistant. Good luck with your project. Carriage bolts to the frame would be the easiers & preferred fastener? Thanx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cabreco Posted July 10, 2013 Author Share #7 Posted July 10, 2013 Planks it is! Tomorrow I am media blasting it. Then applying rust inhibitor paint & primer. Looking to build it to last. BTW I just measured & found the rims are 5 bolt 4 1/2 bolt pattern...AKA Ford bolt pattern. Time to look in my old Mustang pile, then I can swap the 13" 80's for 14" 60 widths on the final plan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
playboy Posted July 10, 2013 Share #8 Posted July 10, 2013 Carriage bolts to the frame would be the easiers & preferred fastener? Thanx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted July 10, 2013 Share #9 Posted July 10, 2013 (edited) +1 more on the PT 2 x 8 or 2 x 10. even PT ply will not last near as long as lumber. The PT lumber will get lighter as it dries. Zinc plated hardware is not recommended for contact with PT wood. Stainless or hot dip galvanized are recommended. http://www.strongtie.com/productuse/ptwoodfaqs.html# Edited July 10, 2013 by Flyinfool Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
playboy Posted July 10, 2013 Share #10 Posted July 10, 2013 Was looking at your pics again and just a thought. But most trailer manufacturers will sale you a set of fenders for your wheel size. They are usually fairly inexpensive and you can also get the inside fender well. No sense slinging rocks and mud all over what your hauling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dacheedah Posted July 10, 2013 Share #11 Posted July 10, 2013 check on the price of deck boards usually 1 1/4" thick. I would not use plywood for durability reasons. Have you looked at diamond plate decking?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brake Pad Posted July 10, 2013 Share #12 Posted July 10, 2013 You know , we keep this up, were going to have to take up a collection for the man:mo money::mo money: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cabreco Posted July 10, 2013 Author Share #13 Posted July 10, 2013 check on the price of deck boards usually 1 1/4" thick. I would not use plywood for durability reasons. Have you looked at diamond plate decking?? Good call Kevin! Pressure treated 5/4 decking is 1/2 the cost & only 1/2" tinner than 2x6 boards. That basically meets all requirements. It's lighter that the 2x6 boards, closer to the thickness of the plywood, & I get the added bonus of it being less expensive. I thought of diamond plate but I shy for 2 reasons. 1. Cost is about $185 for a 4x8 sheet - that's about $550 2. Weight. This trailer has a Dexter Torxflex axle. I want to save weight for the payload. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maknak Posted July 10, 2013 Share #14 Posted July 10, 2013 for all my trailers i use composite decking its pricey but it should last forever you never need to seal and its strong as hell. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dacheedah Posted July 10, 2013 Share #15 Posted July 10, 2013 I would also weld on some angle to the cross pieces with a flat edge at the top and screw or bolt through those. A slight countersink gives a nice finish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oldseadog Posted July 10, 2013 Share #16 Posted July 10, 2013 For fastening, what about countersunk, self drilling & taping screws? I've used these to redeck semi flatbed trailers. A lot faster than driling and bolting. Just chuck a square drive bit in the drill and have at it. The ones I used were either a 1/4" or a 5/16 shank. I think they are available at Home Depot, but any place that specializes in fasteners would have it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trader Posted July 10, 2013 Share #17 Posted July 10, 2013 I used the 5/4 decking on mine. I sold it after a couple of years so I can't comment on the durability....but home decks last a long time! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bendtdj Posted July 10, 2013 Share #18 Posted July 10, 2013 I used Trex brand decking from Lowe's on my front deck. This has a 25 year warranty and comes in a number of colors. It is made with recycled plastic and saw dust. The color goes all the way through and is 6 inches wide and 1 1/4" thick in various lengths. Can even walk on it barefoot. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Riderduke Posted July 10, 2013 Share #19 Posted July 10, 2013 +1 on the Decking Boards....... weight they can handle is about the same as 2x material. I would carriage bolt them down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cabreco Posted July 10, 2013 Author Share #20 Posted July 10, 2013 And the progress continues...I wire sandblasted the trailer. I coated the entire trailer with Rust Bullet, which is a rust encapsulator, then I shot it with a coat of paint! The wiring is next. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Lou Posted July 10, 2013 Share #21 Posted July 10, 2013 5/qtr. with thompsons water seal has lasted 35 yrs so far on my porch, sealed it once, I would reinfoce just a little where the tires set on the trailor,,the weight of the bike ,most likely loaded will make a single board bow after time.. i have steps that bowed over time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted July 10, 2013 Share #22 Posted July 10, 2013 I just put a new floor in my 5x10. 2x6 Redwood. 10ea @ $10.00=$100.00. Reused the fasteners. Now if you really want something that will last forever try 2x6x12' shiplap Currie Wood. Each piece weighs 84#. It's the same wood they use on boxcar beds. Can't dent it with a hammer. The drawback is your bed will weigh 840# and your tare weight will be terrible. I used to have a friend who worked for the RR and I have my work bench built out of the stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squidley Posted July 10, 2013 Share #23 Posted July 10, 2013 This is mine before I widened it to accommodate trikes, been the same treated 2X8 planks for going on 8 years now. Trailer is solid as a rock, carriage bolts through the frame and bolted tight, I have hauled dozens of bikes on it and it has atleast 30K miles on it. 11000lb D rings to lash the bike down, bolted right through the frame as well...Last 4 pics are after I extended the width, Gunboats '99 and DragonRiders '93 trikes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IronMike Posted July 10, 2013 Share #24 Posted July 10, 2013 I'll second or third the 5/8 th plan. Then load the bikes up and mark where the tires are and put a two foot square of plywood below the tires and screw it down. That way no way it will break through. The weight of the bikes combined with the down pressure from the straps and an older floor could cause any lumber to break. So either support the pressure points from below or add the plywood on top to distribute the weight. I would mount the drive up wheel locks on the front. Then just do the plywood deal on the rear tire. Go with LED boat lighting. Put shocks on if you can. Lock trailer to tow vehicle. Lock ramp up. And if you hook a speedometer cable from the trailer hub to the bike speedometer you can still get plenty of miles on the bike! That's how the Hardley riders do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cabreco Posted July 10, 2013 Author Share #25 Posted July 10, 2013 Lots of GREAT quality info here (like I didn't expect it) This trailer will be multifunction.The occasional home depot run, the occasional mulch run, transporting the bike long distance AKA keeping the wife happy, and finally it will be used to haul my bikes when we move to Tennessee. Going to pick n pull to see if I can score some cheap Ford rims (5 x 4 1/2). I've got a pair of H rated 215-60 /14 tires to replace the cheesey B-78/13 tires on it BTW Squid, I like the way you stow the ramps in the Fantail of your rig! http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u214/mystical_pippin/bth_Good-Idea-Smiley.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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