Mel Posted May 4, 2012 Share #1 Posted May 4, 2012 I have never been satisfied with the tail/turn/stop lights on my Harbor Freight trailer. I had changed the bulbs to LED's, but just not enough illumination, especially in the day-time. These were about $16.00 each at Wally-World. A bit of a challenge to mount, but I stuck with the measure twice, cut once rule. Well, I also cut the holes somewhat undersize then shaped them to fit the template I had made. Pretty much labor intensive, but I think the end result was worth the effort. I completed the install with wiring and connectors that I already had. I now have (additional) stronger lighting, located to be much more noticeable. I have some tidying up to do on the wiring, but it's basically completed. Pic 1- rough cut for left light (took a lot of patience and elbow grease to finish) Pic 2- some of the tools and "stuff" I used Pic 3- Hooked up with running lights and left turn signal on Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KIC Posted May 5, 2012 Share #2 Posted May 5, 2012 Good job. Looks nice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
playboy Posted May 5, 2012 Share #3 Posted May 5, 2012 Looks good what 1st gen owner did you get that antique jig saw from. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djh3 Posted May 5, 2012 Share #4 Posted May 5, 2012 One of my questions is, when using LED turn signals I understand you have to change the flasher units to something different. I would guess you have to if they are on a triler to. How do yours operate when "turning". I know on my bike years ago I had to put a heavey duty flasher on it or else it acted like it was in hyper drive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mel Posted May 5, 2012 Author Share #5 Posted May 5, 2012 Looks good what 1st gen owner did you get that antique jig saw from. Me! I rode an '84 VR 'till 2004. I still have the box the saw came in, price sticker still on it. $9.88 at Topps store in south Toledo, Ohio. Solid aluminum housing and gets hotter than, well you know, if it runs for a while. Had to have been somewhere around 1965 to 1973, that's when I lived in Toledo. Brand name is Shop-Craft Model 9150 Type 1. Must be a 1st Gen. eh? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted May 5, 2012 Share #6 Posted May 5, 2012 One of my questions is, when using LED turn signals I understand you have to change the flasher units to something different. I would guess you have to if they are on a triler to. How do yours operate when "turning". I know on my bike years ago I had to put a heavey duty flasher on it or else it acted like it was in hyper drive. LEDs on the trailer will not bother the Flasher on the bike. Incandescents on the trailer can bother some flashers on the bike. Ideal is to have an isolator installed on the bike so that it will never matter what the trailer lights are. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mel Posted May 5, 2012 Author Share #7 Posted May 5, 2012 One of my questions is, when using LED turn signals I understand you have to change the flasher units to something different. I would guess you have to if they are on a triler to. How do yours operate when "turning". I know on my bike years ago I had to put a heavey duty flasher on it or else it acted like it was in hyper drive. It worked fine behind my '07 RSV and seems to be OK behind the 'Wing too. It's been a while, but I don't remember doing anything special when I switched from incandescent to LED's. The new ones have 10 LED's each. I also have LED's in the Muth mirrors. Your older flasher unit probably flashed very fast because they were designed to sense a burned out bulb and flash quickly to signal the driver about a problem. The LED's have such a low current draw that the flasher "assumed" that a bulb was burned out. I still have regular bulbs on the bike. I suppose it's possible that the regular bulbs on fhe bike keep it working OK and the LED's draw so little current that it has no effect. Really don't know other than this guess. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
playboy Posted May 5, 2012 Share #8 Posted May 5, 2012 Me! I rode an '84 VR 'till 2004. I still have the box the saw came in, price sticker still on it. $9.88 at Topps store in south Toledo, Ohio. Solid aluminum housing and gets hotter than, well you know, if it runs for a while. Had to have been somewhere around 1965 to 1973, that's when I lived in Toledo. Brand name is Shop-Craft Model 9150 Type 1. Must be a 1st Gen. eh? I should have known But that's cool they sure don't make tools to last like they use to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mel Posted May 5, 2012 Author Share #9 Posted May 5, 2012 LEDs on the trailer will not bother the Flasher on the bike. Incandescents on the trailer can bother some flashers on the bike. Ideal is to have an isolator installed on the bike so that it will never matter what the trailer lights are. Yeh, I think an isolator was part of the pkg. I bought when I put the hitch and electrical connector on the GoldWing. I'll have to look the next time I have the seat off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djh3 Posted May 5, 2012 Share #10 Posted May 5, 2012 Old tools ahhh. Kinda like older cars. They dont make'um like that no more. I had a skill 1/4" drill that was metal case. By the time I quit using it the thing threw sparks out the vents on the side so bad you thought you would start a fire. I still got an old crafstman like 1/2hp skill type saw works great when a new blade is in it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wes0778 Posted May 5, 2012 Share #11 Posted May 5, 2012 I have never been satisfied with the tail/turn/stop lights on my Harbor Freight trailer. I had changed the bulbs to LED's, but just not enough illumination, especially in the day-time. These were about $16.00 each at Wally-World. A bit of a challenge to mount, but I stuck with the measure twice, cut once rule. Well, I also cut the holes somewhat undersize then shaped them to fit the template I had made. Pretty much labor intensive, but I think the end result was worth the effort. I completed the install with wiring and connectors that I already had. I now have (additional) stronger lighting, located to be much more noticeable. I have some tidying up to do on the wiring, but it's basically completed. Pic 1- rough cut for left light (took a lot of patience and elbow grease to finish) Pic 2- some of the tools and "stuff" I used Pic 3- Hooked up with running lights and left turn signal on Just my I put these http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/trailer-lights/led-trailer-light-kit-95974.html on my Tag Along right off, for brighter lights, but also to not increase the electrical load on the bike. This kit is an exact copy of what comes with the Tag Along, except it is LEDs. Oh and it had no effect on the flash rate on the bike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dacheedah Posted May 5, 2012 Share #12 Posted May 5, 2012 I done those, then leds on both sides as turn and brake then a center brake light. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richie R Posted May 5, 2012 Share #13 Posted May 5, 2012 I replaced the stock ones with led ones and added these also. It turned out pretty good I think. Richie R http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa254/richier73/100_0778.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now