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Another new way to mount stuff on a 1st gen handlebar.


Snaggletooth

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I was thinking along the lines of drilling and tapping and counter boring the exposed end to put in a hex socket head cap screw with red Loctite.

This way you would have a hex drive for install and removal and no visible drive on the outside of the Snagglebar.

 

Unless of course you have access to the technology to make a hex hole into the end of the bar.

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They go on AFTER the handlebar nut is torqued.

 

 

I looked at both my 87 and 89 and neither one has any threads available to use if the nut is on the bolt.

 

So..... do you use a longer bolt or a thinner nut ?

 

Inquiring minds want to know... :confused24:

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I looked at both my 87 and 89 and neither one has any threads available to use if the nut is on the bolt.

 

So..... do you use a longer bolt or a thinner nut ?

 

Inquiring minds want to know... :confused24:

 

The extensions replace the nut.

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I looked at both my 87 and 89 and neither one has any threads available to use if the nut is on the bolt.

 

So..... do you use a longer bolt or a thinner nut ?

 

Inquiring minds want to know... :confused24:

I wish I was a thinner nut.:smile5:

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I looked at both my 87 and 89 and neither one has any threads available to use if the nut is on the bolt.

 

So..... do you use a longer bolt or a thinner nut ?

 

Inquiring minds want to know... :confused24:

 

The nut gets removed..... forever! (or somewhere you can find it later anyway) The stud is threaded to replace the nut with 10mm X 1 pitch to match the bolt from the controls.

 

The controls from both sides are held in place by a splined shaft that seats into the riser. So that allows for the up and down adjustments to the controls. Pay attention when you look at that as there is a pin in that connection that limits how far up and down they can be moved. If that pin does not align with the slot it will bind and not seat properly. Once the controls are set where you want them there are the two pinch bolts on the risers that bind it in place.

 

The nut itself, or the stud replacing it does hold the controls on, but the pinch bolts do most the securement. I tighten the studs down then hit the pinch bolts and it ain't going anywhere.

 

If you remove that nut and look inside the riser you will see what I'm talking about.

 

Mike

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  • 2 weeks later...

Not really, much better than I expected. The mounts I made for the upper fairing were much worse. I made another shorter one for the saddlebag guard and it's fine also. Just swap the camera back and forth with the quik-disconnects in a couple seconds.

 

Now I just need to head off to someplace really interesting.

 

Mike

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Not really, much better than I expected. The mounts I made for the upper fairing were much worse. I made another shorter one for the saddlebag guard and it's fine also. Just swap the camera back and forth with the quik-disconnects in a couple seconds.

 

Now I just need to head off to someplace really interesting.

 

Mike

 

THats good Mike, you just get the details worked out with the Drift mounting and Ill wait and see what works best for you ...and then do it too....that saves so much time.....:confused24::smile5:

 

Brian

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Thanks for in update Bob. Good to know.

 

One of my extras turned into the Snagglestud Camera Mount. :big-grin-emoticon:

 

These types of studs are pretty handy for about anything.

These aluminum stubs/mounts are likely to be called "Snagglemounts" from here out. If any one is interested there will be several pairs shipping today.

One is drilled/tapped 5/16-18 as per Snagglemounts father:rotf:, and the other is plain. If my bolts get here in time there will be a button head screw in place to close off the threads until you want/need them.

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Question what is wrong with velcro to the tank lid? It is stream lined and not in the way of the gauges....

I see nothing wrong with doing that.

My only hesitation is the adhesive used on the piece attached to the cover, and the effects of whatever chemical is used to remove the adhesive.

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