dingy Posted February 6, 2012 Share #26 Posted February 6, 2012 1993 and up are 4 brush. Picture attached shows difference, 4 brush starter does not have the 4 screws around the midline holding coils in. The bottom one in picture is 4 brush, it's partly disassembled in picture. Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dozer520 Posted February 6, 2012 Author Share #27 Posted February 6, 2012 got it. thanks again. i have my eyes on one... i think too if i'm gonna drain the coolant and remove a bunch of stuff, i'll go with the better starter. is it necessary to add addition grounding to the new starter? is it necessary to upgrade the wires with the newer starter?? or probally just a good idea to cover as many issues that cause weak starting while you're in there. the ground wire goes to the engine on the bike, would it help to add a second wire to the frame? or is it best to have the grounding to the engine since that is where the starter is bolted??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted February 6, 2012 Share #28 Posted February 6, 2012 4 gauge wires are better. McMaster Carr has parts needed. I used 4 gauge welding cable, you need about 6 feet. 17818A11410 Ft.Heavy Duty Welding Cable, #4 Cable Size, .420" Overall Od, 10' Length 37113K2491 PackStandard Crimp-on Ring Terminal, Noninsulated, 4 Wire Gauge, 1/4" Stud The starter is grounded right to the block, I did add awire from it to ground point on block, but it was an anal type thing, probably didn't help. Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cabreco Posted February 7, 2012 Share #29 Posted February 7, 2012 is it necessary to upgrade the wires with the newer starter?? Since you'll have all the stuff off her anyway I'd change to 4 gauge wire. BTW Home Depot usually sells 4 gauge by the foot. I bought some a few years ago when I wired a house generator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted February 7, 2012 Share #30 Posted February 7, 2012 Since you'll have all the stuff off her anyway I'd change to 4 gauge wire. BTW Home Depot usually sells 4 gauge by the foot. I bought some a few years ago when I wired a house generator Typical house wire is a lot stiffer than what you will find you would like to have to form wires where they need to be. The mcmaster stuff was very fine strand, about 1000 strands in the bundle. More strands in the same gauge cable increases its current carrying capacity. This stuff was very flexible, I could wrap it around the diameter of a beer can with no effort and it would straighten right back out, very heavy insulation too. Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dozer520 Posted February 7, 2012 Author Share #31 Posted February 7, 2012 okay fellas, 94 vmax starter on its way with 1700 miles on it. and i bought all the 4 gauge cables to do the job. hopefully i'll be up and going by end of the week. do you have to remove the thermostat housing to get the starter out? or can it be wiggled out with simply removing the hoses? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted February 7, 2012 Share #32 Posted February 7, 2012 I am 99% sure the thermo housing has to come out. Picture of starter in bike attached. Also a pic of difference between 4 ga welding wire & stock wire. I didn't nick conductors BTW, thats way I got it from mcmaster. Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rstacy Posted February 7, 2012 Share #33 Posted February 7, 2012 do you have to remove the thermostat housing to get the starter out? or can it be wiggled out with simply removing the hoses? It does have to come out. For me, since I was taking all of this stuff out, it was also a good time to change the thermostat and O-rings. I think there were 4 O-rings. One on the housing, 2 on the plastic elbow, 1 on the bypass valve. (See Skydoc_17 for the bypass valve). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cabreco Posted February 7, 2012 Share #34 Posted February 7, 2012 This stuff was very flexible, I could wrap it around the diameter of a beer can with no effort and it would straighten right back out, very heavy insulation too. Gary The wire at HD was like automotive battery cable (I built a 100' Patch cable from the generaor to the transfer box) and just as stiff. I didn't know that the McMaster Carr wire had that flexibility, that would definitely be a big plus when neatly routing wire around tight places! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dozer520 Posted February 11, 2012 Author Share #35 Posted February 11, 2012 okay guys... vmax 4 brush starter in and 4 gauge wire upgrade and cranky cranky!! finally, victory on the starter!!! next, onto air compressor controller... took circuit board out, followed instructions, resoldered, plugged back in and BOOYAH!!! she works! she pumps, and holds air!!! its a wonderful thing:cool10: onto my front end and handling woes... in light of getting the bejesus scared out me on my ride home from buying the bike, i found it urgent to go over the forks. okay i have the progressive springs so when i took things apart up front i saw a 1" pvc spacer in the tube on top of the springs. i read the progressive instructions and i had the impression that you did not need a spacer if the top of spring if it was within 3/4" - 1" of the top, basically the top of spring being at the bottom of the threads was okay... so why did the previous owner have the spacers in there?? just a preference thing? wan't the front end tighter? and when i collapsed the shocks and measured the oil height the left side that has been weeping was at 3 1/4" and the right side was at 2 3/4"... way too high from what i thought i learned. supposed to be at 5.5" down from top with shock collapsed, right?? so maybe thats why the front end felt like i was sitting on a mideval catapult ready to be launched into outspace when i hit the bumps! i decided to drain all the oil out, being i'm in this far and put new 10wt oil in, being i have no idea what was in it from the last owner. i plan to add oil up to the 5.5" inch mark down from top, and put caps on with out the 1" spacers. how does that sound? thanks again guys!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GaryZ Posted February 11, 2012 Share #36 Posted February 11, 2012 onto my front end and handling woes... in light of getting the bejesus scared out me on my ride home from buying the bike, i found it urgent to go over the forks. okay i have the progressive springs so when i took things apart up front i saw a 1" pvc spacer in the tube on top of the springs. i read the progressive instructions and i had the impression that you did not need a spacer if the top of spring if it was within 3/4" - 1" of the top, basically the top of spring being at the bottom of the threads was okay... so why did the previous owner have the spacers in there?? just a preference thing? wan't the front end tighter? and when i collapsed the shocks and measured the oil height the left side that has been weeping was at 3 1/4" and the right side was at 2 3/4"... way too high from what i thought i learned. supposed to be at 5.5" down from top with shock collapsed, right?? so maybe thats why the front end felt like i was sitting on a mideval catapult ready to be launched into outspace when i hit the bumps! i decided to drain all the oil out, being i'm in this far and put new 10wt oil in, being i have no idea what was in it from the last owner. i plan to add oil up to the 5.5" inch mark down from top, and put caps on with out the 1" spacers. how does that sound? thanks again guys!! The correct volume of fork oil should solve most of your front end problems. IMHO, using the spacer depends on the load you will be carrying. The spacers are a spring pre-load adjustment. Add length to the spacer to add stiffness, remove length for softer. I am 250lbs and I have the spacers installed to help support my weight plus passenger. Adding air is an option, however, I prefer not to be dependent on the air for the front end. I presently will add about 6psi when the bags are loaded and carrying a passenger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bilko1 Posted February 11, 2012 Share #37 Posted February 11, 2012 5. the pipe stubs on the front side of the exhaust crossover are broke:rotf: on both sides. makes it pretty loud I have one you can have. pm me and we can get it going. or call me my cell is in myprofile Bilko I was unable to get to the post office this week, I am off on mon and tues. and will get the package out on one af those days. Bilko Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cabreco Posted February 11, 2012 Share #38 Posted February 11, 2012 i plan to add oil up to the 5.5" inch mark down from top, and put caps on with out the 1" spacers. how does that sound? thanks again guys!! Worse case scenario... IF (and I doubt you will) want a stiffer ride, since you fixed the CLASS air ride controller, you can always add air to the front to compensate for the lack of preload spacers. Look on the horizon...CRUSIN' FUN almost there! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dozer520 Posted February 12, 2012 Author Share #39 Posted February 12, 2012 yes thanks guys for everything, i'm knocking off these issues one by one with your help! can't thank you enough bilko for the exhaust piece! i really appreciate it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squidley Posted February 12, 2012 Share #40 Posted February 12, 2012 I decided to drain all the oil out, being i'm in this far and put new 10wt oil in, being i have no idea what was in it from the last owner. i plan to add oil up to the 5.5" inch mark down from top, and put caps on with out the 1" spacers. how does that sound? thanks again guys!! I have always included the spacers in the front springs when I switched to the progressives. I cut mine at 3/4" and have had no issues with that measurement, 1" will make it a bit stiffer, but not hurt anything. The 5 1/2" down from the top of the fork tube is good, be anal on the measurements in both tubes so that they are exactly the same. You can take a little out if you get too much in with a paper towel. Also make sure that when you drain it all out that you put some of the oil in, without the springs installed and cycle the fork tubes up and down so you get all the air out of the lower portion of the tubes. The level measurement is with the fork tubes collapsed completely, without the springs installed. If you run into problems my # is in my profile....good luck with it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dozer520 Posted February 14, 2012 Author Share #41 Posted February 14, 2012 when i run down the road, the bars aren't staight or perfectly perpendicular to the front tire... the left hand grip is closer to me than the right. how do i straighten the forks or front end? thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squidley Posted February 14, 2012 Share #42 Posted February 14, 2012 when i run down the road, the bars aren't staight or perfectly perpendicular to the front tire... the left hand grip is closer to me than the right. how do i straighten the forks or front end? thanks The handle bars on your 1st gen are moveable in 2 different axis. The main bars can be swung in or out as they have serrated mounting posts. The black tube extensions are also moveable with the same serrated type movements and can be moved up and down. Make sure that the triple tree is squared up, and if it is then go onto the bars and adjust them to what feels good for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted February 14, 2012 Share #43 Posted February 14, 2012 how do i straighten the forks or front end? thanks Couple of pictures of the area that needs adjusted. Not shown in picture are lock nuts, 29mm (1 1/8") main nuts and center plate which holds cover. Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dozer520 Posted February 14, 2012 Author Share #44 Posted February 14, 2012 Make sure that the triple tree is squared up, and if it is then go onto the bars and adjust them to what feels good for you. i would say the triple tree isn't perfectly squared up. it is only slightly off but i'm fussy and do notice it a bit. how do you "square up' the triple tree?? i'll try and post a few pics Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Venturous Randy Posted February 14, 2012 Share #45 Posted February 14, 2012 i would say the triple tree isn't perfectly squared up. it is only slightly off but i'm fussy and do notice it a bit. how do you "square up' the triple tree?? i'll try and post a few pics You could probably loosen the clamp bolts on the fork tubes and twist it a little. RandyA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dozer520 Posted February 19, 2012 Author Share #46 Posted February 19, 2012 well guys, after a couple of weeks of hard work, lots of research, and a lot of elbow grease, i have this MKI running really well. i just put the new clutch and springs in today and that solved the slipping i was having. my knees are blistered from all the squating and wrenching but it was well worth it. did all the adjustments to the front end, changed and set fork oil to proper height, already had proggressives, new brakes, new condor heavy fork brace, tightened the head bearings with dingy's wrench and put a new front tire on. what a difference in handling from the first nite i rode this thing and had the bars shake me silly. got my new starter on and 4 gauge cables, that solved all my starting woes. relocated rear trunk for some 1up touring this week. hoping to put about 1500 miles on a tour through the appalachians if the weather doesn't get too ugly. all i need is my throttle lock and some highway pegs and i'll be golden. i have some floor boards that go under shifter but i don't like how high the shifter has to be when they're on. can't thank you guys enough!!!! really thank you all. i had to put about $350 into the bike, i had lots of setbacks, felt like 1 step forward, 2 steps back most of the way, but its rewarding. hard to believe this bike is 30 years old. i just couldn't get over how this baby just purred down the road today, just really comfortable especially with the rear trunk serving as a back rest. what a great machine! i'll be in touch with how the trip goes, Tom http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu148/DOZER520_photos/101_1269.jpg http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu148/DOZER520_photos/101_1266.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KIC Posted February 19, 2012 Share #47 Posted February 19, 2012 Looks great ! The trunk repositioning for a backrest was interesting engineering and looks like it should be comfortable on long trips. Good Luck on your riding ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yammer Dan Posted February 19, 2012 Share #48 Posted February 19, 2012 Looks great ! The trunk repositioning for a backrest was interesting engineering and looks like it should be comfortable on long trips. Good Luck on your riding ! I use my tent and sleeping bag. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dozer520 Posted February 19, 2012 Author Share #49 Posted February 19, 2012 i was looking for comfort and i don't have the extra $ right now to buy a backrest so i had to get creative. it is comfortable and adds a nice level of wind protection during the 30-40 degree days. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phoneman1981 Posted February 19, 2012 Share #50 Posted February 19, 2012 Welcome to this wonderful site. Enjoy your new ride!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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