muaymendez1 Posted December 19, 2011 Share #1 Posted December 19, 2011 I keep trying to get used to some things on my bike but I think I should repair the problem instead of trying to get used to. My brake lever is very hard to get the bike to stop. Pulled my calipers and made sure all pistons are working fine. The next step is to change the pads and see if anything is wrong with the master. I really have to squeeze hard to the point where I hate using the front brake. I cured the notchiness by loosen ing the pinch bolt snd lubing all hinge points. So what is left Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flb_78 Posted December 19, 2011 Share #2 Posted December 19, 2011 It may be time for new brake lines. The rubber ones weaken over time and will expand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muaymendez1 Posted December 19, 2011 Author Share #3 Posted December 19, 2011 I've heard that before ineef please maker me understand but wouldn't thst cause a spongy feel from the bulging lines? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted December 19, 2011 Share #4 Posted December 19, 2011 Comtamination on the pads (oil mainly) Glazed surface on rotors. - Glass Beading will clean this up. Either one of these will reduce the friction between pads & rotor. 'HH' EBC pads are fairly popular here, I think they will cause premature rotor wear, I prefer a Kevlar pad. Pads are cheap, rotors aren't. Does the lever 'creep' as you are pulling hard, or does it seem steady? Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muaymendez1 Posted December 19, 2011 Author Share #5 Posted December 19, 2011 It's steady.I have adjusted it but it's not the travel it's the force needed to pull.I do think there is a glazed surface.What is glass bead and if I sand thee glaze off, wouldn't I need to di it constantly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted December 19, 2011 Share #6 Posted December 19, 2011 It's steady.I have adjusted it but it's not the travel it's the force needed to pull.I do think there is a glazed surface.What is glass bead and if I sand thee glaze off, wouldn't I need to di it constantly. Glass bead is similar to sand blasting but with a different abrasive used. The glass beads don't cut into the surface like sand does. They will cut the glaze off but not damage the steel rotors. Very fine sandpaper might be an option, like 800 or higher grit. Gary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muaymendez1 Posted December 19, 2011 Author Share #7 Posted December 19, 2011 I will try the sand paper method before saturdays ride. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grisolm1 Posted December 19, 2011 Share #8 Posted December 19, 2011 Lube mating surface from lever to piston in master cyl. Made a big difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RSTDdog Posted December 19, 2011 Share #9 Posted December 19, 2011 When was the last time you changed and flushed the brake fluid? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcarl Posted December 19, 2011 Share #10 Posted December 19, 2011 Change your brake lines,,,, you won't feel the sponginess caused by old rubber lines, but you'll sure notice the difference once you put in the SS braided,,,, like WOW! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rod Posted December 19, 2011 Share #11 Posted December 19, 2011 Lube the lever and put some grease on the lever where it rubs against the piston on the handle bar. New fluid and SS lines if that does not help. Rod Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToyOdie Posted December 19, 2011 Share #12 Posted December 19, 2011 I had the same problem with my 96. When was the last time you changed the brake fluid. I found the fluid in the master cylinder was like jello at the bottom. I cleaned it out and ran fluid through the system. It got better but not the way it should be. I finally decided that the lever just wasn't getting any better, so I ordered speed bleeders and flushed the system with a full quart of fresh fluid. Once I got ALL the air out and lubed the lever piviot, the problem was gone. Now I can use the front brake the way they were intended. I still have a problem with the rear brake. My fluid level is going down with no sign of a leak. I know what you are thinking. "This is normal with wear on the pads". I agree except I have filled the resovoir at least half way 3 times since I put new pads on and they still have more than half the pad left. The brake works fine. I just have to keep an eye on the level. I hope I've helped you with your problem now if I can figure out mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickey Posted December 19, 2011 Share #13 Posted December 19, 2011 Do a search for Caliper Upgrade to Yamaha R6 4 pot fronts and smaller master. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squidley Posted December 20, 2011 Share #14 Posted December 20, 2011 Lube mating surface from lever to piston in master cyl. Made a big difference. Lube the lever and put some grease on the lever where it rubs against the piston on the handle bar. New fluid and SS lines if that does not help. Rod I had this issue on Zipcodes bike when I had it while he was in Joplin Missouri with FEMA. It actually turned out to be the adjusting screw on the brake lever. It had worn into the push plunger of the master cylinder. I disassembled the brake lever and cleaned all the surfaces off. Then filed the adjustment screw smooth again as well as the mating spot on the plunger. Lubed all mating surfaces up again and reinstalled and it worked like a charm.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted December 20, 2011 Share #15 Posted December 20, 2011 Do a search for Caliper Upgrade to Yamaha R6 4 pot fronts and smaller master. Mike These do help. Blue dots from a 2001 R1. Front end from a n 86 Venture, no anti dives. Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muaymendez1 Posted December 20, 2011 Author Share #16 Posted December 20, 2011 I will take head of all ideas. I have flushed it this summer. Fluid is nice color clear as it should be. the brake calipers I have on the bike have 4 pots . I did not think this was an upgrade I just pulled them off to make sure nothing was stuck and both calipers have 4 pots. all moving in and out correctly. I lubed all pivot points which took away the notchy feeling . The plunger just seems to be really hard to go in. I dont have weak hands either I have a pair of meathooks . cant i dissasemble the master and reuse the seals. id like to see if any crud is in there. I had buildup on an old goldwing master cylinder. It did not cause this issue but i do remember the varnsish almost plastic film on the inside. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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