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OK so I have the red warning light flashing and the battery icon lit. PO said it was cuz he installed an aftermarket "maintenance free" battery which does not accept the sending unit for electrolyte level. Read the thread explaining how to bypass with a resistor. Tried both 1k ohm and 2.2k ohm resistors with no success. Ayone have any other suggestions?:confused24:

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OK so I have the red warning light flashing and the battery icon lit. PO said it was cuz he installed an aftermarket "maintenance free" battery which does not accept the sending unit for electrolyte level. Read the thread explaining how to bypass with a resistor. Tried both 1k ohm and 2.2k ohm resistors with no success. Ayone have any other suggestions?:confused24:

 

Likely PO tried to cancel the battery light by hooking straight to 12v without resistor and has damaged the CMS.

Here is an option for repair

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=63495&highlight=repair

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DId you ensure that when you installed the resistor that you did it in the right direction?

 

I know they are directional and I THINK the gold ring on the resistor has to be towards the battery.

 

Could someone verify that for me....I wouldn't want to mislead anyone

 

If nothing else a bit of electrical tape over the red light works!:whistling:

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DId you ensure that when you installed the resistor that you did it in the right direction?

 

I know they are directional and I THINK the gold ring on the resistor has to be towards the battery.

 

Could someone verify that for me....I wouldn't want to mislead anyone

 

If nothing else a bit of electrical tape over the red light works!:whistling:

 

I think you're confusing a resistor with a diode. As far as I know resistors are all bi-directional but I could be wrong. Hey it happened twice just this year:322:.

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Hey Mike,

If you want to insert the probe in a wet cell battery that does not have the "probe hole",

remove the cell fill cap closest to the center of the battery, wrap the probe with common black electrical tape until the probe body diameter is a "push fit" into the cell fill hole. Increase or decrease the wraps of the tape until the probe fits snugly into the cell fill hole, and it's a done deal.

I also wanted to mention that the CMU is NOT supposed to see a direct 12 volts. If the probe wire has been directly connected to a 12 volt source, (like directly to the battery)

The CMU has been damaged, and even installing the probe into the battery properly will not make the light go out. Unless you have the gift of circuit board troubleshooting at the component level, (which I do not have) you will need to pick up another First Gen. MKI CMU from a used dash unit. The MKI (1983 to 1985) and the MKII (1986 to 1993) CMU's are different. I hope the install of the probe cures this issue for you.:080402gudl_prv:

Earl

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Well I guess if neither the 1k or 2k ohm resistor did the trick, it ain't likely the probe will huh?

Anyone know what I should expect to pay for a CMU board?

Check to make sure the original resistor is not in there, Two resistors in line don't make for a good tool to do this job.

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My bike already had the probe removed and the resistor installed so I do not even know what the probe looks like.

Is it an electrical probe or an optical probe?

If it is optical it would have a 45° angled point of clear plastic that goes into the acid. If it is an electrical probe it will have 2 metal contacts that go into the acid.

 

If it is an optical probe you could test it by dipping it in water.

If it is electrical probe, You would need to figure out just how it is being used to come up with an appropriate test.

I can not tell for sure from the service manual and schematics, but I think it is an electrical sensor that is tapping either 4 or 6V off of the battery.

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