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Hagon vs Works Rear Shock


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The OEM shock on my 03 Venture finally gave out. Ive read just about every thread on the subject and determine another OEM shock is out. Now to choose between two popular replacements; Works vs Hagon. Based on my initial contact with both companies, online research and the feedback here, Im going with Hagon and the remote pre-load adjuster. Ill be traveling to Southern California about the time when this custom shock arrives so Ill visit thier office and pick it up live.....

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The OEM shock on my 03 Venture finally gave out. Ive read just about every thread on the subject and determine another OEM shock is out. Now to choose between two popular replacements; Works vs Hagon. Based on my initial contact with both companies, online research and the feedback here, Im going with Hagon and the remote pre-load adjuster. Ill be traveling to Southern California about the time when this custom shock arrives so Ill visit thier office and pick it up live.....

 

I am in desperate need of a rear shock for my 02 RSV. The email response from Hagon said that it would be 3-5 weeks for them to order it. How soon did they say your would available?

 

thanks

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I am in desperate need of a rear shock for my 02 RSV. The email response from Hagon said that it would be 3-5 weeks for them to order it. How soon did they say your would available?

 

thanks

 

I spoke with Christina today. She stated she has a standard venture shock in stock shippable today, no remote preload adjuster and for a normal weight rider. The custom shock i want will ship from England to California on Friday, Monday the latest. She convinced me....hope i dont get burned :)

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Just a note that may help when looking for a used OEM shock, my findings, most used OEM shocks are worn out, but not all, it’s a large chance to take, at about around 30,000 miles most of them are worn out, or they lose oil or air, in my case I had around 60,000 miles on my 02 before I realized the thing was shot, it was wasted, gone, nothing there.

But still had air and oil.

 

You can check your shock by pushing on the back of the bike, just like a car, check for bouncing, spring, spring up and down with no resistance it’s bad, the best way to do this is to fine another new venture or new shock and check the bounce on the new bike then check yours, then check the new bike again, you can really tale the different. .

 

It’s amazing how many drive around with a bad shock and don’t know it, I did for one and riding two up is extremely hard on the shock.

 

Andrew thanks for the info, nice job researching. Hagon vs Works Rear Shock

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I called the one company who has their shocks made in England and did not seem like they wanted to do a shock with a max load over about 350 lbs. So if you ride two up and or with gear (rider at 200+) they weren't a market. I ordered one from works with extra heavy spring and got it this week. Looks very well made but is not adjustible so will have to ride as is. We are leaving next week for Nova Scotia so I should have a good deal to tell when I get back. Along that line, any help you can give regarding installation whould be a big help as my mechanic is a sort of shade tree mechanic and I don't think he has replaced a shock on this particular model:backinmyday: of bike.

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the Works shock is adjustable for preload and rebound.. You have to measure the "sag" of the bike off the ground and with rider ON the bike and then turn the collar (tool included) to have the sag of a certain distance.. The rebound is set with the allen key at the bottom of the shock.. I had set mine early in the spring but after hitting a devastatingly big hole at highway speeds, had to reset everything again when I got home.. (and replace the front tire that had broken belts in it, unfortunately discovered after some many miles later. =( scary dangerous THAT was!!)

 

Where abouts in Nova Scotia are you visiting? Drop me a line and perhaps we can show you around the fun areas here.. scenic and fun.. ;)

 

(We're leaving for a week tomorrow to do the Skyline...)

 

Cheers

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well...still no shock!

 

It appears Hagon England ordered new equipment (or thier supplier of springs did) to make heavy duty springs and that equipment is still not in place.

 

Although the price is better then Works, Im getting suspicious that Hagon wont be able to deliver a heavy duty version shock for many more weeks and Im gettgin tired or bouncing down the road !

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I got a YSS rear shock from : http://www.wilbersusa.com/yss-shock-absorbers.htm I love it, have had it on for over a year, ride quality is excellent, I think they sell for about $400. The guy will custom build it for you, and it's re-buildable. Check them out.

 

I just wrote these people mine shock just started to crap out looks very interesting. Lost 20 Lbs in 24 hrs. I guess this means my shock dont love me no more. Saying goodbye to the air and sure taking a good look at this and the others.

 

Thanks

Carl

 

:7_6_3[1]:

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The OEM shock on my 03 Venture finally gave out. Ive read just about every thread on the subject and determine another OEM shock is out. Now to choose between two popular replacements; Works vs Hagon. Based on my initial contact with both companies, online research and the feedback here, Im going with Hagon and the remote pre-load adjuster. Ill be traveling to Southern California about the time when this custom shock arrives so Ill visit thier office and pick it up live.....

 

I just bought a Hagon shock for my 2003 Midnight (haven't mounted it yet).....and I suspect I might have gotten the one you say Christina was talking about: no preload adjuster, etc....but in stock now (that was about ten days ago.....) and shippable NOW!

 

I picked it up at UPS in Niagara Falls last week while on a 'gas run'.

 

I'll attach a picture or two of this unit in order to lend support to MY humble opinion, which is that Works and Hagon are buying the same shock from the same manufacturer.......and simply branding it differently. You know, like Pontiac and Chev? Or Sears and Kelvinator?

 

Here's my shot of my brand new Hagon......compare the heavy, red coil spring and castelated nut and chrome attachment fittings..........and someone please feel free to dispute my theory.....and upload a picture of a brand new Works!

 

Regards,

Michael

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Anybody know if it's..........

 

a) advisable.........or

b) absolutely necessary to remove the right hand saddle bag when removing and replacing the monoshock?

 

Thanks for this........and any other tips involving doing a 'swap-out' of the rear shock.

 

Michael

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Anybody know if it's..........

 

a) advisable.........or

b) absolutely necessary to remove the right hand saddle bag when removing and replacing the monoshock?

 

Thanks for this........and any other tips involving doing a 'swap-out' of the rear shock.

 

Michael

 

That looks a lot like the Works shock to be honest..

 

I replaced mine last winter and though it's NOT a difficult job what so ever, it does require some dicky-mousing around to get access to the top bolt.. a good lift helps as you have to take the weight off the wheel to get the bolts free etc..

 

I can't remember exactly what has to come off but my bags were already off when I did mine.. Thinking the right side cover comes off.. It will become readily apparent to you what needs to come off when you look at the hardware carefully... If I do recall, there is an article on here somewhere that will walk you through the whole process from start to finish with confidence..

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That looks a lot like the Works shock to be honest..

 

I replaced mine last winter and though it's NOT a difficult job what so ever, it does require some dicky-mousing around to get access to the top bolt.. a good lift helps as you have to take the weight off the wheel to get the bolts free etc..

 

I can't remember exactly what has to come off but my bags were already off when I did mine.. Thinking the right side cover comes off.. It will become readily apparent to you what needs to come off when you look at the hardware carefully... If I do recall, there is an article on here somewhere that will walk you through the whole process from start to finish with confidence..

 

Thanks for 'jumping in' on both issues, buddy.

I have the lift, and understand there's a little "jury-rigging" that has to be done to get a level/non-engine-bearing positioning underneath, so as not to crunch any pipes, hoses or whatever.......but, I got my dirty pants on today and will give it a shot!

 

Cheers,

Michael.

 

P.S. For anyone else reading this......I'd LOVE to see a link to the detailed removal instructions. Kinda surprised it's not in the Gen 2 Tech library....based on how frequently the rear shock seems to fail! ? !:confused07:

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Thanks for 'jumping in' on both issues, buddy.

I have the lift, and understand there's a little "jury-rigging" that has to be done to get a level/non-engine-bearing positioning underneath, so as not to crunch any pipes, hoses or whatever.......but, I got my dirty pants on today and will give it a shot!

 

Cheers,

Michael.

 

P.S. For anyone else reading this......I'd LOVE to see a link to the detailed removal instructions. Kinda surprised it's not in the Gen 2 Tech library....based on how frequently the rear shock seems to fail! ? !:confused07:

 

Ask and ye shall receive... http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/index.php?action=article&cat_id=002013&id=337

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Anybody know if it's..........

 

a) advisable.........or

b) absolutely necessary to remove the right hand saddle bag when removing and replacing the monoshock?

 

Thanks for this........and any other tips involving doing a 'swap-out' of the rear shock.

 

Michael

 

 

You know guys,

 

I have replaced the shock in the usual manner (with the long extensions and borrowing a small hand to put the top bolt back in) but more recently my preferred procedure is to remove the bags, mufflers and rear wheel. Once these are out of the way, you can go in from the rear where the shock is completely exposed and accessable. However, this means you need to have a good cycle jack available to get the bike up off the ground.

 

Hope this helps,

 

Rick

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Probably the best method is as you described, removing the bags and rear wheel, but my experience has been that the less I remove from the bike, the less likely something else will break or be misaligned or pooched ;)

 

But that's just me..!

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Thanks, pal!

 

I ended up taking a run at it with my neighbour guarding against tip-overs......and all went well.

 

It turns out it IS quite a simple operation once you get your balancing act sorted out on the jack. We just used a couple of pieces of 2X2 lumber.....short ones that fit cross-ways on the jack pads.....lengthwise along the frame rails....which protected the engine just fine.

 

When we got it up just high enough that the front wheel was off the ground by about an inch or two....the back end was still 'just touching'....which allowed us to rock the bike slightly, front to back when it came time to slide the bolts out.

 

The new one went in very slick.....and, yes......I'm still convinced that Works and Hagon come out of the same factory!

 

Cheers,

Mike

P.S. We took both left AND right side covers and passenger boards off for easy access, but not the wheel or the bags. No probs!

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