Saddle_Bag Posted March 20, 2011 Share #1 Posted March 20, 2011 The cover plate on side of the engine, each cylinder has one and it is held in place with a phillips head screw. The cover was loose and rattling and the screw would not turn in or out. Well the short is the head is now stripped out. Any thoughts on how to free the screw. I thought about drilling out the screw head............I'm afraid of ripping a hole in the cylinder. I believe the screw is fused to the aluminum in the block. AHHHAHHHH. joe (Saddle_Bag) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bongobobny Posted March 20, 2011 Share #2 Posted March 20, 2011 OK First thing, those phillips are a #3 phillips, and you probably tried taking them out with a #2. Get yourself a god #3, hit the screw up with a little heat followed by a blast of PB or any other penetrating oil, and hit the screwdriver with a big hammer a couple of times to seat the screwdriver into the head, and to break the screw loose. I sometimes clamp a pair of vice grips on the shaft of the screwdriver as well so I can push in along with twist the screwdriver. The real issue is loctite on the screw threads... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Saddle_Bag Posted March 20, 2011 Author Share #3 Posted March 20, 2011 I'm not going to blow a big hole in the cylinder, by hitting the screw with a hammer? A number 3 phillips. I get one tomorrow at the Ace hardware. I'll let you know how it goes. joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snaggletooth Posted March 20, 2011 Share #4 Posted March 20, 2011 And if that fails you might try to Dremel a slot into the screw head to fit a larger straight blade. The use of a hand impact would help to keep the pressure into the screw head once you get a bite on it. I do beleive there is a plug under the cover that goes into the coolant jacket. Now what I don't know is if the plug can work loose if the cover is loose. Haven't had that apart on mine yet. Something to check. Someone else should have the answer to that. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squeeze Posted March 20, 2011 Share #5 Posted March 20, 2011 to add to what Bob said, you could use Valve Grinding Paste or something like that to give the Tip of the Screwdriver a little extra grip in the Phillips Head. If the Slots are completly rounded off, there's no other Option than drilling the Head out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flb_78 Posted March 20, 2011 Share #6 Posted March 20, 2011 You need an impact driver set. http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00999001000P?sid=IDx20070921x00003a&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=00999001000P http://s.shld.net/is/image/Sears/00999001000?hei=248&wid=248&op_sharpen=1&resMode=sharp&op_usm=0.9,0.5,0,0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squeeze Posted March 20, 2011 Share #7 Posted March 20, 2011 Sorry, an Impact Driver won't work on the Screw of Rubber Inlets Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flb_78 Posted March 20, 2011 Share #8 Posted March 20, 2011 I wasn't aware that this particular fastener was threaded into rubber. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snaggletooth Posted March 20, 2011 Share #9 Posted March 20, 2011 Hi Squeeze. Question. Does that screw go directly into that plug then? Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted March 20, 2011 Share #10 Posted March 20, 2011 Attached a couple of pictures I just took, showing the block without the covers on. The main holding screw goes into the aluminum casting. The small plug that has the threaded insert in it is at bottom area of cover. The threads in this plug are to aid in removing it, I think. The casting is very strong in this area, the first picture shows down into the water jacket. Right behind the screw boss in question, there is a boss that extends to the inner sleeve chamber. As long as you don't get a full swing with a 12lbs sledge, you should be OK. The impact driver with a #3 bit has worked for me. Put tension against the impact with your hand in the counter clockwise direction & a firm rap from a medium size hammer should loosen it. If you screw your covers up, I have a spare set. Also have spare set of drain plugs, will be replacing them in this motor. Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snaggletooth Posted March 20, 2011 Share #11 Posted March 20, 2011 That answered my question. Thanks Gary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiCarl Posted March 21, 2011 Share #12 Posted March 21, 2011 You need an impact driver set. http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00999001000P?sid=IDx20070921x00003a&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=00999001000P http://s.shld.net/is/image/Sears/00999001000?hei=248&wid=248&op_sharpen=1&resMode=sharp&op_usm=0.9,0.5,0,0 A hand impact driver is a basic tool requirement if you're working on motorcycles. Get one while you're out tomorrow. It'll be the best money you ever spent. If the screw is too far gone you can drill it. You only drill enough for the head to come off, you'd have to go another half inch to damage the engine. Then you pull the screw remains with locking pliers. You can get really fancy and get left hand drill bits. As the drill breaks through the back of the head it will grab the screw. There is a decent chance it'll spin it right out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted March 21, 2011 Share #13 Posted March 21, 2011 Do not get the Harbor Freight one though. I bought one a month ago, it had a some bits mine is missing. First time I used it I twisted the #2 phillips bit. Now this may not seem like a big issue, but, I was using it to break the carb rack apart at the time. Didn't damage the rack, but I have encountered harder pretzels in my time. It went back and they refunded money. Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squeeze Posted March 21, 2011 Share #14 Posted March 21, 2011 Ok, Folks, I'm sorry for misinforming. I had a different Picture in my Head. I guess, i should stop working on my 2Gen Max and start going back to where the real Motors are .... Sorry again :255: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldGazer Posted March 21, 2011 Share #15 Posted March 21, 2011 This is a common problem with aluminum engines, steel fasteners, heat cycles, and coolant. I used to have 3 water cooled Porsches (2 944 NAs, and a 951 Turbo). The biggest nightmare was snapping a 10mm water pump bolt. The solution is to use Anti-Sieze on EVERY steel fastener that goes into aluminum threads. Y'All ride safe.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SilvrT Posted March 21, 2011 Share #16 Posted March 21, 2011 Ok, Folks, I'm sorry for misinforming. I had a different Picture in my Head. no problem Lutz... we'll forgive ya... THIS TIME! oh, and about that "picture in your head" .... PUHLEEZE don't elaborate! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yammer Dan Posted March 21, 2011 Share #17 Posted March 21, 2011 PICS?? We always want... well maybe not... I got one of those screws broken off in my 84. Never did drill it out but its on my list. It broke pretty easy if I remember right. And it was before I knew this site was here. Maybe thats what went wrong???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldGazer Posted March 22, 2011 Share #18 Posted March 22, 2011 PICS?? We always want... well maybe not... I got one of those screws broken off in my 84. Never did drill it out but its on my list. It broke pretty easy if I remember right. And it was before I knew this site was here. Maybe thats what went wrong???? Two other possibilities: 1. Some "gorilla" ham handed it and its cross threaded. 2. The fastener had a crack. I busted an exhaust stud on the 951 and had to pull the head to get it fixed.... When I looked at the stud, it was cracked about 1/2 way through. The darned thing broke with very little torque applied.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terrysears Posted March 22, 2011 Share #19 Posted March 22, 2011 I have a set of bits that are specifically designed for removing stripped screws. They have a head the bites into the screw head when turned counterclockwise. I bought them at Canadian Tire, but you can get them at almost any hardware store. Cost about 10 bucks a set (in Canada), probably half that in the U.S. They work great - should have a set in every toolbox. Cheers Terry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KeithR Posted March 22, 2011 Share #20 Posted March 22, 2011 I have used what Terry is talking about several times and they work great. Keith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Saddle_Bag Posted March 23, 2011 Author Share #21 Posted March 23, 2011 Bought the hand impact tool. Got it at a local tool shop. Any thoughts on heat??? I'm going to work on it this weekend, work has me busy til then. joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted March 23, 2011 Share #22 Posted March 23, 2011 Bought the hand impact tool. Got it at a local tool shop. Any thoughts on heat??? I'm going to work on it this weekend, work has me busy til then. joe Your only reason to put heat on it is if you think it has had red loctite on it. The heat will break the bond of the red loctite. Otherwise, it would be counterproductive to heat the screw. Heat expands objects, other than water. You would need to get the heat on the aluminum case, which is not practical, to do any good. So what heating it would do is to expand the screw, thus making it tighter. Have you gotten the other 3 screws out? If you have, without heat, chances are this one doesn't need heat due to loctite. If you think it does need heat, due to loctite, only heat it to around 500 degrees, not anywhere near red hot. Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiCarl Posted March 23, 2011 Share #23 Posted March 23, 2011 Bought the hand impact tool. Got it at a local tool shop. Any thoughts on heat??? I'm going to work on it this weekend, work has me busy til then. joe If you heat it with a torch you'll mostly expand the screw in the hole and discolor the cover. If you end up drilling the head off you can heat the aluminum boss the screw remnant is in to make it easier to extract. It wouldn't hurt to run the engine until the cooling fan kicks on. That heat will expand the aluminum more than the steel screw and may help you crack it loose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Saddle_Bag Posted March 23, 2011 Author Share #24 Posted March 23, 2011 I really didn't want to take them off. This cover was loose and rattling. I first started to tighten. It would not budge. I tried taking it out, it moved a bite and then stopped. With the frame so close, it prevented me from getting a straight shot at it and with the wrong bite, the screw head rounded. I'm gonna use the impact this weekend, after i try penitrating oil on Friday.(and let it sit til Saturday) joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bongobobny Posted March 23, 2011 Share #25 Posted March 23, 2011 I sometimes use a little heat but then quench it with penetrating oil which will fairly rapidly cool it. I think the thermal shock may blast the bond a little. I have had some siezed screws come out like they were already loose with this procedure, yet others have little or no effest... As mentioned, just enough heat to soften the loctite but yes the screw does expand a little and make it slightly tighter. Another tip, if the screw comes out tight, keep turning out then turn back in a little at a time to minimize thread damage... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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