heatonmt Posted October 5, 2010 Share #1 Posted October 5, 2010 could anyone tell me what the voltage should be at the battery is when bike is running. 08 RSTD I would think it is the same as a venture. 1000 miles on bike stopped to get gas 30 miles from home headed out of town went to start bike and all I got was click click. So there I was got a push start it fired up I took off down the road stop 40 mile later and it started right up. and did all day long. Took bike to dealer when I got back to town and they said it was a loose negative cable. I find that hard to believe when it seemed to charge back up. they did say it only had 33% charge on it but battery did check out OK. :think: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heatonmt Posted October 5, 2010 Author Share #2 Posted October 5, 2010 no hits put back up top Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BOO Posted October 5, 2010 Share #3 Posted October 5, 2010 Well maybe the connection got a little better after it was running again. For some odd reason the postive lead on my RSV will loosen up from time to time. But back to the question. Voltage at the battery without the engine running should be about 12.6 volts plus or minus a tenth or so. 13.8 volts with the engine running 2 grand or so.... or at least above idle.... BOO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Bob Posted October 5, 2010 Share #4 Posted October 5, 2010 Took bike to dealer when I got back to town and they said it was a loose negative cable. Yes, it could be true. I saw this often in my HD days. When loose, you get enough current to power the lighter stuff, including pulling the starter relay, (click, click) but not always enough to turn it over. Later, Scooter Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcarl Posted October 5, 2010 Share #5 Posted October 5, 2010 When you push the start button there will be a heavy draw at the battery. I a post, especially the neg, is loose it won't give enough flow for the starter so it gets hot and craps out. Then it cools and reconnects and may reconnect better than at first. In the mean time it has enough connection to charge the battery and power the rest of the scoot as mentioned before In other words,, it can and does often happen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hummingbird Posted October 5, 2010 Share #6 Posted October 5, 2010 yeah - the dealer was correct, they weren't pulling your ah whatever. it only takes a little vibration to disrupt or even 'fix' a charging system. That would be a temporary 'fix' seems a shame you would have to check all the nuts and bolts on a new bike tho - - - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heatonmt Posted October 5, 2010 Author Share #7 Posted October 5, 2010 thanks for the help I am going to pull seat and check Voltage with meter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeWa Posted October 6, 2010 Share #8 Posted October 6, 2010 Very common symptom of a bad cable connection. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heatonmt Posted October 16, 2010 Author Share #9 Posted October 16, 2010 will it was not a loose cable out for a rider tonight stopped to get gas dead battery when I went to start. Charging right now then going to put it in a come home. I will then pull the + cable and see if bike stays running. hope it is charging the Battery. You know the dealer put some running lights on 2 week before all this started I would think if it was not right it would be blowing fuses not running down the battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heatonmt Posted October 16, 2010 Author Share #10 Posted October 16, 2010 Ok put a half of a charge on the battery went and put it back in the bike ( I was lucky this happened 1.5 miles from the house. I road the bike home put a multimeter on it not running 12.6 started the bike and gave it some gas it jumped up to 13.8 and 14 volts. Then I had a idea lets turn the running lights on that the dealer installed the voltage drop right back down to 12.8 volts. I may be wrong but that should not happen.So I gauss I cant run running light on this bike. Not I think there is something not right with this picture. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BOO Posted October 16, 2010 Share #11 Posted October 16, 2010 Ok put a half of a charge on the battery went and put it back in the bike ( I was lucky this happened 1.5 miles from the house. I road the bike home put a multimeter on it not running 12.6 started the bike and gave it some gas it jumped up to 13.8 and 14 volts. Then I had a idea lets turn the running lights on that the dealer installed the voltage drop right back down to 12.8 volts. I may be wrong but that should not happen.So I gauss I cant run running light on this bike. Not I think there is something not right with this picture. While the voltage will drop some with the running lights on I'm thinking yours is dropping way to far. Not sure just how much voltage drop you will get with the running lights on. I'm thinking not more then 4 to 6 tenths, half a volt. Almost sounds like you have a bad connection somewhere or one that is corroded. If this just started after the dealer installed the lights then I could assume he did something to cause your problem. It sounds like the charging system is doing it job but when you try to draw some extra current then something breaks down. I would start with making sure the connections to the battery are clean and making good connection. Another good thing to check is the connector from the stator, these seem to cause problems. BOO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heatonmt Posted October 16, 2010 Author Share #12 Posted October 16, 2010 Boo as far as the connections I did check that and it was good. Bike is new only 1200 miles on it so there should be no corrosion. I thinking a short drawing voltage from the install of the lights I would have thought a fuse would have blow en. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 16, 2010 Share #13 Posted October 16, 2010 Did the dealer wire in a relay into the driving light circuit with an on/off switch? Since its an 08 with 1200 m iles on it I would let the dealer track the problem. At least it would be on file if something major goes wrong with the charging system later on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LilBeaver Posted October 16, 2010 Share #14 Posted October 16, 2010 Did the dealer wire in a relay into the driving light circuit with an on/off switch? Since its an 08 with 1200 m iles on it I would let the dealer track the problem. At least it would be on file if something major goes wrong with the charging system later on. For sure. could anyone tell me what the voltage should be at the battery is when bike is running. 08 RSTD I would think it is the same as a venture. 1000 miles on bike stopped to get gas 30 miles from home headed out of town went to start bike and all I got was click click. So there I was got a push start it fired up I took off down the road stop 40 mile later and it started right up. and did all day long. Took bike to dealer when I got back to town and they said it was a loose negative cable. I find that hard to believe when it seemed to charge back up. they did say it only had 33% charge on it but battery did check out OK. :think: That is 'interesting'. How in the world could they verify that your battery is okay if it only had 33% charge?? - While turning at 3000+ rpm voltage should read 13.6 or higher (From service manual). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiCarl Posted October 16, 2010 Share #15 Posted October 16, 2010 I think you're worrying over nothing. Not sure what the specs on the 2nd gen alternator are, but I bet it's output curve is similar to the first gen. The first gen alternator doesn't really start to produce until 3K RPM. Those extra lights draw a good bit of power. I wouldn't be surprised if the alternator can't keep up until 4K rpm, especially if you've been standing still long enough for the cooling fan to be running. By the way, your voltage readings will be meaningless if the battery isn't fully charged. Something was posted earlier about disconnecting the battery with the motorcycle running. Not a good idea. The battery acts as a voltage damper. Without it you can get spikes that potentially could damage electronics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heatonmt Posted October 17, 2010 Author Share #16 Posted October 17, 2010 Did the dealer wire in a relay into the driving light circuit with an on/off switch? Since its an 08 with 1200 m iles on it I would let the dealer track the problem. At least it would be on file if something major goes wrong with the charging system later on. i pull head light and check where the dealer tied in. He went to the the 12 pin plug. red wire with white stripe on it. The best I can tell that in the ignition wire. The install instructions say go to the blue wire but I think ether will work. I Beginning to lean to the battery. New bike but it is a 08 that means the battery was almost 3 years old. I have road it for 2 days with the running lights turned off I am going to pull battery and put a volt meter on it today. Service manual says it should be at 12.8 volts or high if it is back down to 12.6 I will charge let it again let it set and check to see if it at 12.8 or higher. If it is not I am going to ask the dear to replace it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
top Posted October 17, 2010 Share #17 Posted October 17, 2010 My two cents worth. RSTD and RSV have weak electrical systems that require good management. I have Moto lights on mine and after about 20 min of running charging cannot keep up with usage. I usually shut down lights for about ten minutes until sytem recharges. On RSV i have gone to Custom dynamics LEDS and have resolved the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrich12000 Posted October 17, 2010 Share #18 Posted October 17, 2010 Stator may have winding burned out. Bike barn has them in stock. You should look in the forum for More info. ask the guys about the regulator upgrades to a high output mosfet type ,,good luck..:photographing:pics please Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wes0778 Posted October 17, 2010 Share #19 Posted October 17, 2010 Stator may have winding burned out. Bike barn has them in stock. You should look in the forum for More info. ask the guys about the regulator upgrades to a high output mosfet type ,,good luck..:photographing:pics please Think he said it is an '08. If the stator is the case, WARRANTY!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirby Posted October 17, 2010 Share #20 Posted October 17, 2010 If your charging system is checking OK, and your battery is checking OK when the engine isn't running, then I would suggest that you pull the battery out and take it to someone who can load test the battery. Sometimes a battery will check good, but when a load is put on it, it will die. Just my worth. Good luck with finding the cause. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeWa Posted October 17, 2010 Share #21 Posted October 17, 2010 This is not hard to track down. With the engine not running connect an amp meter in line with one of the battery cables. Make sure the meter can handle the expected current draw. Turn the key on and read the current. Turn the running light on. Read the current. Try the high beam. Is the current being drawn under 30 amps? Sometimes the combination of high beam and running lights over power the charging system. The reason it is often recommended to connect them to the low beam circuit. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heatonmt Posted October 17, 2010 Author Share #22 Posted October 17, 2010 This is not hard to track down. With the engine not running connect an amp meter in line with one of the battery cables. Make sure the meter can handle the expected current draw. Turn the key on and read the current. Turn the running light on. Read the current. Try the high beam. Is the current being drawn under 30 amps? Sometimes the combination of high beam and running lights over power the charging system. The reason it is often recommended to connect them to the low beam circuit. Mike Mike are you saying the charging system has a max of 30 amps? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeWa Posted October 18, 2010 Share #23 Posted October 18, 2010 14 volt 30 amp at 5000 rpm. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saddlebum Posted October 18, 2010 Share #24 Posted October 18, 2010 Not all running lights draw the same amount of power.It is important to know what wattage the lights are as the higher the wattage the more power they draw thus making it harder for your alternator to keep up. You may need to replace the bulbs with a slightly lower wattage bulb. Also relay's do not lower the amount of currant a light draws they simply aid in giving the lights an independent power supply which can be controlled by a comon switch or power source. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heatonmt Posted October 18, 2010 Author Share #25 Posted October 18, 2010 14 volt 30 amp at 5000 rpm. MikeSo at 5000 rpm with all lights on (high beam also) I should be getting 14 volts at the battery if amps are at or below 30 amp. right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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