86er Posted March 1, 2010 Share #1 Posted March 1, 2010 On the way home from work I noticed that my turn signals hads quit working. Then I noticed that all the computer display was blank although the tach was still working, then that quit. When I got home and put the kickstand down everything came back. If I put the ks back up it all went out again. Now, after sitting, it's back to blank when I turn on the switch. I have tried plugging in another computer to no effect. I don't know if the other computer is good but I've checked it out and don't see any noticeably bad solder joints. I also have a nib reserve lighting unit that I am going to try. Anybody have any ideas? I've got my laptop here in the garage with me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eck Posted March 1, 2010 Share #2 Posted March 1, 2010 Faulty kick stand switch maybe....?? Lets see.. a couple of ...and a nap should do it.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86er Posted March 1, 2010 Author Share #3 Posted March 1, 2010 Ahhhhhh you know me too well my friend. Already did the nap but I'm still on my first beer! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted March 1, 2010 Share #4 Posted March 1, 2010 I doubt it is the side stand switch itself. All that switch does is to tie two circuits to ground, it would not cause dash to go out under worst case failure. It could be however, be triggering an upstream circuit failure and allowing a path to ground through it. This is a schematic for 1st gen start circuits http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42722 This is link to overall schematics. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42384 Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldgoat Posted March 1, 2010 Share #5 Posted March 1, 2010 you know my 84 did this turned out to be the - cable to the battery was lose. just enough to cause it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86er Posted March 1, 2010 Author Share #6 Posted March 1, 2010 The cables are tight, but that made me wonder about the stator since I have nothing showing on the volt meter. I started it and checked with a separate meter and it's putting out 14.25 at the battery. The headlight is good and bright. I have tail light but not brake light. The background of the LCD is lit but no display. No neutral light or temp gauge either. Time for the second beer! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted March 1, 2010 Share #7 Posted March 1, 2010 Does the bike crank & start? Gary The cables are tight, but that made me wonder about the stator since I have nothing showing on the volt meter. I started it and checked with a separate meter and it's putting out 14.25 at the battery. The headlight is good and bright. I have tail light but not brake light. The background of the LCD is lit but no display. No neutral light or temp gauge either. Time for the second beer! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted March 1, 2010 Share #8 Posted March 1, 2010 (edited) Check the signal fuse. It is tied to the gauges and the neutral light. It also runs into Dash CMOS unit. Make sure tabs in fuse box are not deteriorated, this is common on these bikes. Fuse needs to have tension on sides to make good contact. Gary Edited March 1, 2010 by dingy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
warthogcrewchief Posted March 1, 2010 Share #9 Posted March 1, 2010 I had a similar problem where I would get power to the radio, but nothing else worked...turns out it was corrosion building up around the battery terminals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86er Posted March 1, 2010 Author Share #10 Posted March 1, 2010 Thanks, it looks like that was it, Gary! The fuse was good so when I looked at it it looked ok. But it wasn't in the holder securely. Now that I have the CMOS out I'm gonna take care of a few little problems with it. I get the headlight warning light when I go to high beam and since I went to LEDs in the brake and tail light I have a warning on that as well. Time to do some soldering and adding some jumpers. It looks like the computer I got in a dash off of eBay isn't good. Somebody had been into it because hold down screw on the board is missing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dano Posted March 1, 2010 Share #11 Posted March 1, 2010 Todd, you been lettin' Bubba work on the wiring? Sounds like he done let the smoke out of 'em! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evan Posted March 1, 2010 Share #12 Posted March 1, 2010 I recently have had a electrical problem affecting my headlight. For no obvious reason, I lost power to the dash light and headlight only. Signals and all other lights such as neutral indicator were not affected. the problem has happened twice and both times, the lights started working again on their own. The first time, I checked out all fuses and had power out of the fuse panel. Does anybody have any ideas on where my problem is likely to be? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted March 1, 2010 Share #13 Posted March 1, 2010 I recently have had a electrical problem affecting my headlight. For no obvious reason, I lost power to the dash light and headlight only. Signals and all other lights such as neutral indicator were not affected. the problem has happened twice and both times, the lights started working again on their own. The first time, I checked out all fuses and had power out of the fuse panel. Does anybody have any ideas on where my problem is likely to be? Evan, Your problem could be due to a dirty or poor contact in your 'Engine Start' switch. This switch has two sets of contacts. When you push the start switch in, one set completes the start circuit, Normally Open contacts. The other set breaks the energy to the headlight circuit, Normally Closed contacts. Look at thread below for opening up and properly cleaning this switch. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42433 Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iowa Guy Posted March 1, 2010 Share #14 Posted March 1, 2010 Install new fuse box. That fixed my 89. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squeeze Posted March 1, 2010 Share #15 Posted March 1, 2010 Thanks, it looks like that was it, Gary! The fuse was good so when I looked at it it looked ok. But it wasn't in the holder securely. ... I'm glad you got your Senses back Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86er Posted March 1, 2010 Author Share #16 Posted March 1, 2010 Hey Squeeze! I never claimed to have any Sense!!! (Well except for the that I'm usually willing to throw in here!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squeeze Posted March 1, 2010 Share #17 Posted March 1, 2010 Hey Squeeze! I never claimed to have any Sense!!! (Well except for the that I'm usually willing to throw in here!) Right !!! But now you said this in public ..... now, it's on the Record ... :crackup: I'm glad for that, so, I'm not the only other without any Sense ... :thumbsup2: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bongobobny Posted March 1, 2010 Share #18 Posted March 1, 2010 Hey Todd, I too think it's time to upgrade your fuse block with a set of new style spade type fuses! You may want to try Auto Zone for their 6 fuse common terminal blocks. All the brown wires going to the fuse are common as is the red wires... Ask Bubba, he won't steer you wrong!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86er Posted March 2, 2010 Author Share #19 Posted March 2, 2010 I've got one of Skydoc's fuse block kits and have looked at putting it on a couple of times but I've not done it yet. It is going to have to be relocated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evan Posted March 2, 2010 Share #20 Posted March 2, 2010 Evan, Your problem could be due to a dirty or poor contact in your 'Engine Start' switch. This switch has two sets of contacts. When you push the start switch in, one set completes the start circuit, Normally Open contacts. The other set breaks the energy to the headlight circuit, Normally Closed contacts. Look at thread below for opening up and properly cleaning this switch. Gary Thanks Gary. You guys are amazing. Your comment makes sense to me because coincidentally, I think my headlight problem happened each time after my start switch stuck in the start position. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BradT Posted March 2, 2010 Share #21 Posted March 2, 2010 Right !!! But now you said this in public ..... now, it's on the Record ... We all already new that so it did not matter if he put it on Record. Second beer always helps Brad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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