Jump to content
IGNORED

Building of the BEERCART (Pic HEAVY!! )


BEER30

Recommended Posts

Some have asked me on how I built the BEERCART . I searched through my photos and was able to come up with these . I may have more , but these should explain enough .

First I started with the floor , made of 7/16" OSB plywood . I built a box and ribs of same material . While constructing the internal box and ribs , I used screws to fasten them together and also made in such a way that when the time came , I could take apart and remove after I fiberglassed the body . In this first 4 photos , I had already laid the floor , constructed the inner framework and ribs . I then laid layers of 1/2 foam board on which I cut into widths that would maintain a thickness that when I sanded/molded , it would still hold it's rigidity . I used Elmer's glue and 3" drywall screws to secure the layers . I used a belt sander with 50 grit and a larger wasp to shape the mold .

http://www.meangene.us/beercart/MCT1.jpg

http://www.meangene.us/beercart/MCT2.jpg

http://www.meangene.us/beercart/MCT3.jpg

 

In these next photos , I needed to be able to maneuver the mold to work around . So I placed a pipe through the mold to form an axis and made a stand to form a rotisserie likeness to spin the mold to work much easier . Also at the time of when the photos were taken , I had already proceeded to my next step in the mold shaping of finer lines at which I used drywall compound to smooth out the body lines and to define the shape of the BEERCART . There was a large amount of hand sanding at this stage !

 

 

 

http://www.meangene.us/beercart/MCT6.jpg

 

 

http://www.meangene.us/beercart/MCT8.jpg

 

http://www.meangene.us/beercart/MCT9.jpg

 

http://www.meangene.us/beercart/MCT10.jpg

 

The pictures show above is what I believe was the funnest of all the steps it took to build the BEERCART . Because at this time I was able to express on how I wanted the BEERCART to become . It was also a challenge not only to form the mold , but to balance each side to mirror itself . Although I know that I did not exactly match each side to be a perfect match from one side to the other , I know I got pretty darn close for a homemade project .

Now I did not get photos of the next step , but I can explain it to you very simply . After I finished "all" the modeling , I used latex house paint to paint the mold on which I used at least 2 heavy coats of paint . For the reason of that fiberglass resin would dissolve the foam that I used to make the mold . This paint became a barrier between the chemical reaction which would occur such as pouring gasoline in a Stryo-foam cup . After the paint dried , I applied a generous coat or 2 of Turtle Wax . This became the release agent that would allow me to take the mold apart after fiberglassing . We do not want the fiberglass to bond with the mold , as we will be removing the mold eventually .

 

Fiberglassing : There are numerous websites that will show you what you need and how to apply . I was fortunate to have some experience and also help from a friend whom builds boats . On the BEERCART , I used multiple layers of fiberglass matting and cloth . I applied the fiberglass in strips and layers to eventually form an 1/4" wall throughout the construction . In some places I either applied more for bracing and/or sheer strength . Here is a photo after we glassed the BEERCART and removed the mold . It has a greenish tint to it because of the Turtle Wax we used as a release agent .

http://www.meangene.us/beercart/MCT11.jpg

 

Removing the mold . ; After we glassed the BEERCART , I started unfastening the inner box , then the ribs , and then prying out the foam .. Then I used sandpaper to scuff up and remove the release agent and wipe away with an acetone rag . After we removed any of the waxes from the release agent , we started on filling and body work . Filling ad sanding , filling and sanding until we gained a smooth prime finish .

 

http://www.meangene.us/beercart/MCT12.jpg

 

Meanwhile and to take a break from the bodywork , I started on the trailer frame . I used thick wall 2"x2" aluminum square tubing . I did a layout on plywood , then cut the tubing to match the layout . I used 500 lb torsion axles on the BEERCART . After all the cutting , we weld the aluminum tubing . It took me 45 minutes to cut the frame pieces and 3 hours of welding .

 

http://www.meangene.us/beercart/MCT13.jpg

 

After the frame was all welded , we went back to the body . Just like in the auto repair body shop , we prepped the BEERCART , primed and then painted . We finally assembles the frame and body and then added accents , lights , mags/tires , undercoating , and other bells and whistles .

 

http://www.meangene.us/beercart/MCT16.jpg

 

http://www.meangene.us/beercart/MCT20.jpg

 

 

To say to this date , the BEERCART is still not finished . I am constantly adding new bells and whistles . I added a linear actuator with remote to open the hatch this past summer . I plan on adding an extra fuel cell to help extend my range . Wife says I still need to add the satellite dish and Mailbox !

 

The BEERRCART is 45" wide , 6' long with 3' tongue . Weighs approx 190 lbs dry and pull great . I have pulled it approx 33 K so far without any issues other than having to reposition my load now and then . Total cost in materials have run me an estimated $900.00 and about 5/6 months of fun in labor . But keep in mind that I did get a few Good Buddy deals along the way .

I may have missed a few step explaining the process in building the BEERCART

, but I think you can fill in the voids . If not ask away , will be more than happy to explain .

 

BEER30

.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for sharing! In my younger days we built experimental planes about the same way. you would shape foam, cutting with a heated nicrome wire, sand to shape, then a lot of fiberglassing and filling. To make a project like this out of your mind is awsome!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just an awesome job, I'll be attempting this very soon. Your pics have helped me out greatly as I was going to build from the inside out using a gelcoat as part of the finish but this would be hard in making the shape and design. Thanks, and if you have any other info it would be greatly appreicated.

Billy

The Jester

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest tx2sturgis

Great job on the fiberglassing...the whole thing really..but I want to pick yer brain about the frame welding. I have a couple simple projects in mind with aluminum welding...not terribly different than what you have shown in the frame...but I know nothing about aluminum welding. Obviously it takes some special skills and equipment. Ok..but I've had some trouble finding someone to do what I want done for a reasonable amount of money.

 

Say you took all those cut pieces in your frame to a welding shop...had them do all the welding...about what should that cost? Are we talking a few hundred dollars? Five hundred? Just tryin to get an idea here.

 

Maybe you could give me some input on the projects I'm thinking about.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had a friend whom did the welding . It took him about 3 hours to do a thorough job . It could have been done in 2 hours , but we made sure we made every weld at extra strength . I cannot remember th ebrand of the TIG welder , but it had a water cooled head on it . It was the best money could buy to say the least .

I cut the frame myself . It took about 45 minutes , as I made a jig with chalk lines on plywood to follow by and to square up and tack weld all the pieces together before the final weld . I used a Makita 60 tooth carbide blade to cut the aluminum . The aluminum was 2" x 2" x .25" square tubing . If I remember correctly , that cost was about $120.00 for 2 - 20' sticks (approx. 7' of scrap left over) . Welding shop will vary amongst themselves as for the shop rates . If you cut all the pieces and bevel all the edges with a grinder/sander , you will have done the most of the work other than the welding .

I could have done the project with lighter weight steel , but I wanted aluminum and also could have gone to 3/16" or possibly 1/8" wall rather than 1/4" . Just not having made a trailer in aluminum , I felt making it more heavy duty was worth it . I would say welding aluminum takes more time to weld than steel , but however I do not have to worry about RUST !

Making the frame was quite easier than the fiberglass . Making in steel will be much cheaper than aluminum , but it was worth it to me as to save on weight and paint . However if I were to break down somewhere , it would be more of a hassle to get repaired as some weldig shops do not do aluminum .

I would be more than happy to hear from you about your project and maybe give some suggestions . Give me a shout after 8:00 EST , as I have been working later hours here lately . My # is in my profile .

 

BEER30

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...
Very Nice! :thumbsup2: How much BEER does it hold? :D

 

In the cooler, about 2 cases and a bag of ice . Several years ago at Vogal , I must have had 8 cases all together , plus everyones luggage within . BEERCART was totally full . Last year doing our annual Polar Bear Ride which also was a food drive for our local soup kitchen , I had just over $800 worth of groceries and supplies inside the BEERCART and several boes/cases of toilet paper and paper towels strapped on top .

Back to the BEER , I can easily exceed maximum weight in BEER and still have plenty of room for Pretzels .

 

BEER30

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...