thebighop Posted November 5, 2008 Share #1 Posted November 5, 2008 My ignition switch is about shot....I can't turn it to lock the front end, and have to fish around for a spot that will give me ignition.... I need to know how to remove the switch to replace it, or get it repaired.... Have any of you taken one out? What tool do I need to remove the bolts? A replacement switch runs around $150.00, and I don't want to have to pay the stealership to do the work on top of that... Help!!!!!!!!!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoomerCPO Posted November 5, 2008 Share #2 Posted November 5, 2008 Hope this helps............ http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=512 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thebighop Posted November 5, 2008 Author Share #3 Posted November 5, 2008 Thanks Boomer... I am gonna try slotting the heads and see if they'll twist out...otherwise I am gonna cut them off and replace the bolts too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoomerCPO Posted November 5, 2008 Share #4 Posted November 5, 2008 I would think that grinding the heads off with a Dremel tool and using new bolts would be the best way to go. If there is a better alternative I'm sure one of the Pro's here will post such. Good luck with the job! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
99silver Posted November 6, 2008 Share #5 Posted November 6, 2008 Steve, I had the same problem, drilled them out and used an easy-out to remove the bolts and I was able to save the switch by cleaning the contacts, if the contact plate is salvageable. replace the bolts with allen head bolts. I also put the lighting circuit on a relay, that is where the heat problem begins due to the current draw. Call me if you need more help. Cell 801-516-0035 Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squeeze Posted November 6, 2008 Share #6 Posted November 6, 2008 I don't know if there is enough Space to work on the Bolts, but the best Way to remove stripped Bolts or in this Case Bolts without any Head for me is to drill the Head in a fairly large Diameter and drive a fitting Torx-Bit into the Hole. Worked for hundred of Times and didn't ruin the Torx Bit most of the Times. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StarFan Posted November 6, 2008 Share #7 Posted November 6, 2008 I don't know if there is enough Space to work on the Bolts, but the best Way to remove stripped Bolts or in this Case Bolts without any Head for me is to drill the Head in a fairly large Diameter and drive a fitting Torx-Bit into the Hole. Worked for hundred of Times and didn't ruin the Torx Bit most of the Times. Hey Squeeze. Do they use the Torx in USA ? I know we have it all over Europe but as you might know then these guys in the US are not the first to jump on a new idea even though it works better :stirthepot::stirthepot: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N3FOL Posted November 6, 2008 Share #8 Posted November 6, 2008 The correct size of left hand drill worked great for me, when drilling out stipped head bolts. Start with the smallest size and drill on the center of the bolt and work your way up in size. In no time, that bolt will start turning to the left and out the hole. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squeeze Posted November 6, 2008 Share #9 Posted November 6, 2008 Hey Squeeze. Do they use the Torx in USA ? I know we have it all over Europe but as you might know then these guys in the US are not the first to jump on a new idea even though it works better :stirthepot::stirthepot: Jonas, good Point, i'd never thought of that. I just couldn't believe that the Torx Drive couldn't have made it's Way to US. Seriously, i don't know if Torx-Drive is known in US. We have them more and more at the MAN Trucks, on the VOLVO they were everywhere since 1988, even come with inverted Heads nowadays. I use them often, on my Bike to replace the stock Bolts. Drywall Jobs with a Power Driver actually gets funny with that Screws instead of using cross-slotted Screws. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thebighop Posted November 7, 2008 Author Share #10 Posted November 7, 2008 I used my Dremel to cut slots in the heads, but couldn't get enough toruqe on the screw driver to turn the bolts out, so I cut through the nuts and split them...the bolts came out with no problem after that... There's enough loc-tite on the threads to keep a couple of Harleys from vibrating apart.....LOL I checked with my lock smith buddy....and he said he couldn't do anything to fix my switch, and he's one of the best at fixing that type of stuff.. It's just plain worn out...it is more a matter of the switch wearing out and the inside falling apart than it is one of just bad contacts and such... The key won't turn without a lot of fudging and twisting and the fork lock won't move at all. I ordered an new one...$169.60. The dealership wanted $179 plus yax, but they gave it to me for $160 plus tax...(6%tax) I'll get it early next week....probably come in by dog sled by then.... Oh...new bolts (as if!!!) are $10.95 each....Ha! I have a lot of nuts and bolts here after 32 years of working for GM/Delphi...I am sure I can find a pair that will work out. Thanks for the help.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gene-b Posted November 7, 2008 Share #11 Posted November 7, 2008 Change it soon, If it goes out, everything stops and you will be stranded. I KNOW! A couple of hours on the side of the free way and a tow, makes the $150.00 cheap! Gene-b Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dano Posted November 7, 2008 Share #12 Posted November 7, 2008 Jonas, good Point, i'd never thought of that. I just couldn't believe that the Torx Drive couldn't have made it's Way to US. Seriously, i don't know if Torx-Drive is known in US. We have them more and more at the MAN Trucks, on the VOLVO they were everywhere since 1988, even come with inverted Heads nowadays. I use them often, on my Bike to replace the stock Bolts. Drywall Jobs with a Power Driver actually gets funny with that Screws instead of using cross-slotted Screws. We're not THAT ancient! I know we only discovered fire and the wheel about a hundred years ago (Indy 500 1st race! actually bikes), we've had torx around here for awhile. Still trying to get rid of that pesky "metric" system, tho. I STILL can't stand saying I've got a 5.7 litre in the car when 350 sounds MUCH bettter!! cross-slotted Screws!!!!!!!!! Hey Squeeze!! More popular teminology and shorter spelling is "Phillips" head drywall screws!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StarFan Posted November 7, 2008 Share #13 Posted November 7, 2008 We're not THAT ancient! I know we only discovered fire and the wheel about a hundred years ago (Indy 500 1st race! actually bikes), we've had torx around here for awhile. Still trying to get rid of that pesky "metric" system, tho. I STILL can't stand saying I've got a 5.7 litre in the car when 350 sounds MUCH bettter!! cross-slotted Screws!!!!!!!!! Hey Squeeze!! More popular teminology and shorter spelling is "Phillips" head drywall screws!! Sorry I hurt your feelings :hihi: Wanna talk about metric system against inches Now I´m in for it :duck: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dano Posted November 7, 2008 Share #14 Posted November 7, 2008 Hey Jonas, it's all in how you got taught growing up. We know you guys over there need it more simple (10, 10, 10 ,10....LOL). We are able to computate a lot harder numbers here (1/4, 1/2, 3/64ths, foot, yard,etc). Really, it's only how someone a long time ago decided how to break down and put words and numbers together to describe how to measure something. Someone else could come up with a new way and words to describe it and it would still be the same length!! I STILL think 350 cubic inch sounds a lot bigger and better than 5.7 litre!! LOL Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StarFan Posted November 7, 2008 Share #15 Posted November 7, 2008 You are absolutely right. The cu.inches on motor sizes are better than the liters. Still think that the meter system is better than the inches - but that is "like you so rightly stated" because I grew up with it. I would defence your system all the way if I was brought up with it. And by the way - Thanks for your nice reply regarding my visit in next May. Hope I will get to meet you at Freebirds. Take care and ride safely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squeeze Posted November 8, 2008 Share #16 Posted November 8, 2008 We're not THAT ancient! I know we only discovered fire and the wheel about a hundred years ago (Indy 500 1st race! actually bikes), we've had torx around here for awhile. Still trying to get rid of that pesky "metric" system, tho. I STILL can't stand saying I've got a 5.7 litre in the car when 350 sounds MUCH bettter!! cross-slotted Screws!!!!!!!!! Hey Squeeze!! More popular teminology and shorter spelling is "Phillips" head drywall screws!! I'm sorry, Phillips Head didn't come to my Mind as i wrote my Comment. But why are you picking on me ? :stickpoke:Jonas is the one to blame !! He doubted the Knowledge about Torx Drive in US, I just said i have no Clue about it ... Question .... as your familar with those Phillips Heads, would they be a PZ or PH Profile ? We have them both here. :crackup: I agree on a "350 Motor" is sounding much better than 5.7 Liter. At least for my Ears, but who am i ? Most Folks here have no Idea about cui Relations. Only those who like V8 Engines even can refer anything to it. In Regards to the metric/inches System. I like them both, espacially on my '97 GMC Truck with 396 Diesel. It's from Canada and most of the Interior is metric, km on the Speedo and Odo, bar for Oil Pressure, all Gauges except Temperature (F) ... but the Nuts and Bolts are Inch .... I just love to run out just for replacing one stripped Bolt. On the other Hand we use Withworth on Pipes and Tubes... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dano Posted November 8, 2008 Share #17 Posted November 8, 2008 Ah, sorry, just saw a door open and had to step through! I believe they would be a #1 or #2 phillips head, I have used both. I too agree on Jonas as the instigator, perhaps he shall meet the pond monster at Dons this year.............. What are you doing up at 5am?! Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squeeze Posted November 8, 2008 Share #18 Posted November 8, 2008 (edited) Ah, sorry, just saw a door open and had to step through! I believe they would be a #1 or #2 phillips head, I have used both. I too agree on Jonas as the instigator, perhaps he shall meet the pond monster at Dons this year.............. What are you doing up at 5am?! Dan Just got home from 24h Shift with 5 Hours Break inbetween. I should go to Bed but i'm awake as i would come out of the Bed right now. You just can't sacrifice Jonas to the Pond Monster, it already took out the Gazebo, what do you think it would do with Jonas? :crackup:He's desperately needed at Home, working and paying Taxes to resolve the nearly Bankrupt of the Banks and nearly his whole Home Country have been pulled into. And i'd like to meet him one Time there, i dream about riding my 1Gen to Hanstholm, enter the Ferry and make the Round Trip from Seydisfjördur to Reykjavik and back to the Ferry two Weeks later. P.S. It no Question about PH #1 or #2 ... There are PH and PZ Profiles. The Angles between Shaft Diameter and Tip are different. Edited November 8, 2008 by Squeeze Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StarFan Posted November 9, 2008 Share #19 Posted November 9, 2008 I too agree on Jonas as the instigator, perhaps he shall meet the pond monster at Dons this year.............. What are you doing up at 5am?! Dan O.K. - You guys just bring me the Pond Monster and I will teach it a lesson or two and retrieve the Gazeboo and any other valuable things in it´s posession. Squeeze! Let me know if you ever plan a trip with the Ferry. I have an old farm not to far away from Seydisfjordur even though my home is in Reykjavik. So you will have a place to stay on both corners of the country. Would be great to have you. Just remember to bring some wrenches if the bike brakes down like: 7/16 and 7/8 and 15/16:stirthepot::stirthepot::stirthepot: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thebighop Posted November 14, 2008 Author Share #20 Posted November 14, 2008 It took over a week for the stealership to get my ignition switch in, but I got it and installed it yesterday.... Now if spring would just hurry up and get here... Too rainy to ride today....temps in low 50s and upper 40s. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squidley Posted November 14, 2008 Share #21 Posted November 14, 2008 You are absolutely right. The cu.inches on motor sizes are better than the liters. Still think that the meter system is better than the inches - but that is "like you so rightly stated" because I grew up with it. I would defence your system all the way if I was brought up with it. I have to agree with you on that one Jonas, sorry Skinny. I used Metric measuring when I built armored assalt vehicles that were built using Austrian prints. The metic system is so easy for measuring it's stupid. But I will agree on the 350 sounding much better than a 5.7 litre Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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