N3FOL Posted March 11, 2009 Share #26 Posted March 11, 2009 Kitesquid, Thanks for all your input. This makes me more confident on tackling the job. I do want to check and might as well grease the splines on the drive shaft (summer time), but honestly I do not want to remove the rear wheel unless I am ready to replace the tire. Please tell me that it is OK to service the drive shaft without removing the rear tire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KiteSquid Posted March 11, 2009 Share #27 Posted March 11, 2009 Rear tire has to come off....... sorry.... I lubricated my splines and drive fingers (part of the Clutch Hub) when I replaced my rear tire the first time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RossKean Posted March 12, 2009 Share #28 Posted March 12, 2009 I haven't done it before so I want to make sure... Is it necessary to remove both mufflers to get the axle out? How big a deal is it to get the mufflers back on without leaks? Do you have to replace gaskets? Thanks Ross Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hkd51 Posted March 12, 2009 Author Share #29 Posted March 12, 2009 I finally got around to taking the back tire off. I also wanted to remove the pumpkin and drive shaft to grease them. It turns out that you don't need to jack the bike up any higher that the height of the legs on the lift. It is quite stable on the lift without tie downs even with the back wheel, pumpkin and drive shaft removed. Problem is I had my son help to remove the axle, I hammered while he pulled, it came out easy enough (I put a floor jack under the back tire to take the weight off it) but I didn't get to see where the washers came from on the right side of bike:think:. Can any one help? Thanks Harry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StarFan Posted March 12, 2009 Share #30 Posted March 12, 2009 I haven't done it before so I want to make sure... Is it necessary to remove both mufflers to get the axle out? How big a deal is it to get the mufflers back on without leaks? Do you have to replace gaskets? Thanks Ross You should only have to remove the right side muffler to get the rear wheel off. I just did this recently and did not change the gaskets on got no leaks. This depends though on the conditions of the gaskets. Have a look at them and if they look torn bad in any way then replace them. You can also just reuse them and start the bike up and check if you have leaks. It only takes about ten minutes to install the muffler so if it leaks it is not a big deal getting new gaskets and replacing them.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freebird Posted March 12, 2009 Share #31 Posted March 12, 2009 Here is a write-up by Cougar that should show you where all the spacers and etc. go. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=515 As for the mufflers, I've had both sides off my '99 many times and have not yet needed to replace the gaskets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StarFan Posted March 12, 2009 Share #32 Posted March 12, 2009 I finally got around to taking the back tire off. I also wanted to remove the pumpkin and drive shaft to grease them. It turns out that you don't need to jack the bike up any higher that the height of the legs on the lift. It is quite stable on the lift without tie downs even with the back wheel, pumpkin and drive shaft removed. Problem is I had my son help to remove the axle, I hammered while he pulled, it came out easy enough (I put a floor jack under the back tire to take the weight off it) but I didn't get to see where the washers came from on the right side of bike:think:. Can any one help? Thanks Harry First you slide the bolt through the rear arm. then you install a washer between the rear arm and the brake caliper bracket and continue pushing the axle throught the bracket and into the wheel. Make sure that you have the collar inserted inside the wheel. Then you simply push it through and put a washer before the final nut. Have a look at the picture. It should show you how this is supposed to be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JerryK Posted March 12, 2009 Share #33 Posted March 12, 2009 I have changed my rear many times [2000 RSV 86k---2003 RSV 52k] It's really pretty simple and you find a few short cuts after a while. I put it on my Sears lift [w/o straps] and take off right side saddle bag,r-muffler,un-bolt caliper and tie out of the way. Then with thin flat wrench I take of the axle nut. You should be able to slide axle out by pulling it out by the head with a little twisting. [a few times I have had to take off left muffler to tap axle out if it's stubborn]...then raise lift up to top height and pull tire and hub to right and lower and slide out. Also when I clean the bike or change oil or whatever I put on lift and spin bike around where ever I want it....NO TIE STRAPS.....If you have a smooth floor it's NP. It scares my friends to watch me grab the jack handle and just spin it every where. I DO HOLD ON TO HANDLE BAR WITH MY LEFT HAND WHILE I PULL JACK HANDLE WITH LEFT. JerryK:Venture: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hkd51 Posted March 12, 2009 Author Share #34 Posted March 12, 2009 Thanks Starfan the diagram helps a lot, the write up by Cougar is excellent, in fact I refered to it before attempting the job but the photos are too low a resolution for my old eyes to see it clearly. Personally I will always be removing the pumpkin and axle when changing the back tire, all the grease points where dry, it was done by the dealer 3 years ago. The wheel can be removed easily once the pumpkin and axle are out of the way by tipping the wheel on it's side and sliding it out, no need to go to scary heights with the bike. I am taking the rim to the local Yamaha dealer to have the tire changed $25 (Canadian) for mounting and balancing, pretty good price I think? Harry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StarFan Posted March 12, 2009 Share #35 Posted March 12, 2009 (edited) Thanks Starfan the diagram helps a lot, the write up by Cougar is excellent, in fact I refered to it before attempting the job but the photos are too low a resolution for my old eyes to see it clearly. Personally I will always be removing the pumpkin and axle when changing the back tire, all the grease points where dry, it was done by the dealer 3 years ago. The wheel can be removed easily once the pumpkin and axle are out of the way by tipping the wheel on it's side and sliding it out, no need to go to scary heights with the bike. I am taking the rim to the local Yamaha dealer to have the tire changed $25 (Canadian) for mounting and balancing, pretty good price I think? Harry Glad that I could be of some help. Now remember that when you have pulled the driveshaft out of the frame tubing and greased it and you are ready to slide it back in you have to raise the yoke that is inside the frame tubing so the shaft will slide in. If you don´t do that the the shaft can go above the yoke and will therefore not engage (i have been there). On the top front of the tubing is a hole that is covered by a rubber plug. Remove the plug and use a coathanger wire or simply some kind of small size metal rod (I used an allen key) to hold the yoke up in the middle of the tubing. Then carefully slide the driveshaft in the tubing and hopefully it will slide right in the yoke. Note this might take two or three tries and it is better to have somebody help keeping the yoke in the middle while you slide the shaft in. and you might also have to turn the shaft just a little bit for the splines to fit each other. Note that you should first attach the driveshaft to the differential and then slide it in the frame tubing according to the manual. I tried both and found the manual to be right. Here are some extra pictures and info you might find helpful: Edited March 12, 2009 by StarFan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hkd51 Posted March 13, 2009 Author Share #36 Posted March 13, 2009 Once again thanks StarFan, great information!! I was wondering how to hold the yoke up. Thanks for the photos also. I was just reading another post about lubricant for these part, I am going to see my Honda dealer tomorrow to see if I can get the Molly 60. Another question for you. My rear shock isn't leaking but it does groan a lot. I have put some transmission/30 weight oil down the air tube a few times now but still groans after a week or so. Do you think I should look at replacing the rear shock? If so do you think I should I replace it with an OEM or a Progressive? Thanks! Harry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jethroish Posted March 13, 2009 Share #37 Posted March 13, 2009 Another question for you. My rear shock isn't leaking but it does groan a lot. I have put some transmission/30 weight oil down the air tube a few times now but still groans after a week or so. Do you think I should look at replacing the rear shock? If so do you think I should I replace it with an OEM or a Progressive? Thanks! Harry I was going to do a search about this because mine also groans a lot. I just took it to be common place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gunboat Posted March 13, 2009 Share #38 Posted March 13, 2009 rick butler had posted so advice about the rsv shock groan. i belive you neede a 1/2 oz 20wt shock oil and 1/2 oz syn. transmission fluid. take out the schater valve and then inject this mixture into the schater valve fitting. replace the schater valve air up the shock and go for a good ride. this should help get rid of that groan. i belive i had to add this mixture twice to stop the squeek/groan on my bike. don c. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seabeetom Posted April 4, 2009 Share #39 Posted April 4, 2009 I also have the Carbon One jack adapter with legs. With the jack centered, if I remove just the Rear Wheel and raise it high enough to clear the Rear fender to remove...will the bike tip over and fall to the front? This may be my worst nightmare in the garage. Used Carbons' jack stand.. Removed front wheel, then rear wheel... No problem with stabilization... Did have to raise stand/bike with jack in order to get rear wheel out ... No biggy though... Tried local Acura/Honda car dealers for Moly60...blank stares... Found it at local Honda bike shop @ 9.59 for 3oz tube. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wes0778 Posted April 5, 2009 Share #40 Posted April 5, 2009 Used Carbons' jack stand.. Removed front wheel, then rear wheel... No problem with stabilization... I do you have pictures of the Carbon One jack stand? I've tried Uncle Google to see one and all it seems to come up with is sites talking about carbon credits and such! Walter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibents Posted April 5, 2009 Share #41 Posted April 5, 2009 I do you have pictures of the Carbon One jack stand? I've tried Uncle Google to see one and all it seems to come up with is sites talking about carbon credits and such! Walter Try this thread, it shows it in the classified. Ian http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showcat.php/cat/500/ppuser/161 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N3FOL Posted April 5, 2009 Share #42 Posted April 5, 2009 Used Carbons' jack stand.. Removed front wheel, then rear wheel... No problem with stabilization... Did have to raise stand/bike with jack in order to get rear wheel out ... No biggy though... Tried local Acura/Honda car dealers for Moly60...blank stares... Found it at local Honda bike shop @ 9.59 for 3oz tube. Thanks for your input. I feel much better now. The jack adapter is surely one of the best accessories you can have for the Venture. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hkd51 Posted April 5, 2009 Author Share #43 Posted April 5, 2009 Job is done. I took the pumpkin and drive shaft out, with those off the tire came out without having to lift the bike higher than the Carbon One stand. Greased everything ...pins where dry as a bone, drained differential, then reversed procedure to reinstall. Followed advise to put shaft and pumpkin back then line up with axle before torquing 4 acorn nuts. Tire wouldn't go back in without jacking bike up quite a ways but all went well. I would advise everyone that does this job to check the brake pads, it seems the inside pads wear prematurely. My outside pads are hardly worn but the inside pad was almost down to bare metal on the trailing edge yet leading edge was not bad. Harry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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