tufftom4 Posted December 31, 2014 Share #1 Posted December 31, 2014 I saw this and will have to try it I know it will not deform the tire but whoever thought of this was thinking outside the box. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigatcsi Posted December 31, 2014 Share #2 Posted December 31, 2014 But what about balancing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Venturous Posted December 31, 2014 Share #3 Posted December 31, 2014 Pretty slick. I'll have to give that a try next tire change. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cowpuc Posted January 1, 2015 Share #4 Posted January 1, 2015 Learn something new everyday!! Way cool Tom - THANKS for info!! Now we need a clever way for breaking the bead on a flat tire while on the road!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oldodge Posted January 1, 2015 Share #5 Posted January 1, 2015 I've never seen that done before. Thanks for sharing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeWa Posted January 1, 2015 Share #6 Posted January 1, 2015 Thanks for the post. Very slick method of mounting the tire. But for those of us who are cheap the large wire ties are reusable. There is a release in the latch. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djh3 Posted January 1, 2015 Share #7 Posted January 1, 2015 Last pair of tires I mounted on the RSV had the opposite problem. It was hard to get beads out to seat. Take a cargo strap and put around tire and ratchet down some, it will spread the bead a little. then shoot the air to it. soon as the tire seats the beads release the strap. On is the easy part, a couple well placed tires spoons while working it around and your good. but still a neat idea I might have to try. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bongobobny Posted January 1, 2015 Share #8 Posted January 1, 2015 He didn't mention lining up the arrow with the valve stem (most tires) which aids in the balance... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djh3 Posted January 1, 2015 Share #9 Posted January 1, 2015 Yup I thought of that too. As far as balancing goes, I just use the balance beads. They work great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiCarl Posted January 1, 2015 Share #10 Posted January 1, 2015 He didn't mention lining up the arrow with the valve stem (most tires) which aids in the balance... Bob, on tubeless tires I find the heavy spot on the wheel and put the mark to that. The valve doesn't come up the heavy spot much more than random chance. In fact, on a wheel like the 1st gen with a big rib that is cut away for the valve there is a very good chance the heavy spot is 180 from the valve. Point of interest - I find that generally the wheel itself is more out of balance than the tire. I think the aligning the mark with the valve comes from tube type tires - where the tube is reinforced at the valve and adds a lot of weight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bones Posted January 1, 2015 Share #11 Posted January 1, 2015 My son and I use this method. He "found it on the internet," as it were. It does work for mounting and dismounting, if a bit clumsy. Breaking the bead to remove the tire is difficult, but we use two methods. One being the old double 2x4 and the car bumper. Long board used as leverage pushing much shorter one down onto the bead to break it loose. The other is an old 14" car rim that fits just inside the wheels of our motorcycles and simply stand together on the tire edge and our weight breaks the bead. Balancing is done with bearings scavenged from roller blades and mounted to two boards and a rod suspended between them. They hang from the back of wooden chairs when needed. Weights are provided by your local Harbor freight store. It works if a bit crude. It is easier just to get them done in a shop, but we enjoy the time together wrenching now and then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oldodge Posted January 1, 2015 Share #12 Posted January 1, 2015 I break beads in my vice. It opens just enough to get the jaws on the tire just beneath the rim. Crank it down tight and twist the wheel left or right and it pops the bead. No help on the road, unless an equipment service truck happens along. A couple years ago the neighbor boy showed up in my garage with the rear wheel off his crotch rocket Yamaha. "We tried everything" said he and his buddy, "How do you break these things down"? Felt good to pass on a little knowledge and when the boys said 'We knew you could get it" I had to adjust the band on my hat a little. LOL! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cowpuc Posted January 4, 2015 Share #13 Posted January 4, 2015 Like soooo many of you other varmints, I have used a lot of methods for breaking the bead on these things.. Gotta say,, while back I was goofing around at Harbor and noticed this little gem on sale.. Think it cost all of 15 bucks when I finally carried it out the door and it is HANDY!! Works perfect!! Always intended to figure out a way to incorporate into my touring package,,, Tip wont share her "Clothing/cosmetics Department" (the trunk) but I am still working on it!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
van avery Posted January 4, 2015 Share #14 Posted January 4, 2015 I used a 8" Jorgensen wood screw clamp to break the bead on the last tire I changed. Did not know about Zip tie method to remove off the rim. will need to try on the next tire replacement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yammer Dan Posted January 4, 2015 Share #15 Posted January 4, 2015 A large C-clamp? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cowpuc Posted January 4, 2015 Share #16 Posted January 4, 2015 Last pair of tires I mounted on the RSV had the opposite problem. It was hard to get beads out to seat. Take a cargo strap and put around tire and ratchet down some, it will spread the bead a little. then shoot the air to it. soon as the tire seats the beads release the strap. On is the easy part, a couple well placed tires spoons while working it around and your good. but still a neat idea I might have to try. If you take a couple short pieces of 2x4 and use them to prop open the tire (if I am home and swapping tires, I have some card board spacers I use to do this BUT 2x4's work as well - c pic), then lay the tire in the sunshine as your taking the bike apart (you can use a heater too), when your ready to install it the tire will now be expanded and should pop right on the bead... A large C-clamp? ABSOLUTELY!!!! I carry a 16 inch set of channel locks (favorite tool of all times) in the maintenance dept on Tweeks and, if I use a fair amount of that black tire mounting lube stuff when I install the tire, can sometimes pop em loose with even them!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptainJoe Posted January 4, 2015 Share #17 Posted January 4, 2015 Has anyone on here had any luck with this zip tie method install on a rear Dunlop E3 tire ? Reason I'm asking is the sidewalls are so thick on these particular tires that I can sit on one without a rim and not crush it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cowpuc Posted January 4, 2015 Share #18 Posted January 4, 2015 (edited) Has anyone on here had any luck with this zip tie method install on a rear Dunlop E3 tire ? Reason I'm asking is the sidewalls are so thick on these particular tires that I can sit on one without a rim and not crush it. Let it sit in the sun for a while or heat it somehow and its amazing how flexible they become!! The worst tires I have seen are Michilens cause of the hard rubber they use in manufacturing (trying to make em last longer) and even they become flexible when warmed up real good.. I use my kersonene torpedo heater sometimes to heat em up if the sun isnt shining.. Besides,, those tie wraps have an amazing amount of strength,, seems like you could wrap the tie wrap, stand with you feet on the edge of the bead with the wrap between your feet, step down while you pull up,, seems like that would close the gap.. Edited January 4, 2015 by cowpuc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zagger Posted January 4, 2015 Share #19 Posted January 4, 2015 Hey Cowpuc, Thanks for the nice pictures. Is there enough clearance between the tool and the rim so that scraping up the sealing surfaces on the aluminum wheel isn't going to happen? zag Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cowpuc Posted January 5, 2015 Share #20 Posted January 5, 2015 Hey Cowpuc, Thanks for the nice pictures. Is there enough clearance between the tool and the rim so that scraping up the sealing surfaces on the aluminum wheel isn't going to happen? zag Welcome on the pics Zag.. I just watch where the tool is laying, set it on the tire, press down and work it under the edge a little at a time.. That pic of the press being all the way in is just for show,, normally you dont have to go in that deep to break the bead, hold it out a little and the tire will fold around the edge of the press face - press down and they pop right off.. Havent had any issues with marking at all but you do have to be careful.. Another note, I used to cut strips of plastic from used quart jugs of oil to slide between the spoons and the rim when spooning em on to protect the surface your talking about.. I suppose a person could take some of that same material and make a quick protector out of it when using the press too but if you watch what your doing it really isnt necessary... GOOD EYE JAG!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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