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I've noticed that when delinking the front brakes most run a line from the master cylinder to a splitter than 2 lines, one to each caliper.

 

Is there any reason I can't run a single line from the master cylinder to one caliper with a double banjo bolt and a line jumping the fender to the other brake caliper. This is how it is done on Glodwing trike conversions.

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isnt the normal configuration for the rear brake to operate the rear and front left caliper and the front lever to operate the front right caliper. now i have though about converting the front lever to operate both and i dont see why that wouldn't work as long as you properly modified the rear slave cylinder to only output to the rear

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I am in the process of replacing both front calipers and my rear caliper and delink everything. I just received all my parts from skydoc17 (Earl) and everything is top notch and EXCELLENT quality and I almost have everything swapped over. His kit is TOP NOTCH and the stainless lines are really nice and clean everything up very nice. You know what :cool10: they say...The bitter taste of poor quality long outlives the thrill of the cheap buy. Get a hold of skydoc17 and he will set you up the correct way.

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I've seen skydoc's kit, but i'm on a budget for the bike and that kit would blow my budget. I also work at a motorcycle shop so I can get parts at 10% over deal cost.

 

I'm figuring why buy 3 lines and 6 fittings when I can buy 2 lines and 4 fittings, plus the rear line.

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To answer your question about dual banjo and up and over line, yes it will work but IMHO it will look like crap...

 

I am assuming you are not planning on using the anti dives?? My main concern is the up and over line getting fouled in the front forks.

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I actually see no reason why it would not work with the double banjo set up. Some may be concerned that pressure may not apply equally, but the pressure in a closed system is actually self equalizing. Just make sure both calipers are the same.

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I've noticed that when delinking the front brakes most run a line from the master cylinder to a splitter than 2 lines, one to each caliper.

 

Is there any reason I can't run a single line from the master cylinder to one caliper with a double banjo bolt and a line jumping the fender to the other brake caliper. This is how it is done on Glodwing trike conversions.

 

It might make it harder yet to bleed front brakes. The top part of the loop from right to left side would be a great air trap.

The front brakes are notorious for being hard to bleed.

Gary

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I modified a Kawasaki coupler and mounted it on the lower tree. I re-used one of the original hoses from the master to the coupler, but, I will replace with a braided line. From the coupler are two matching braided hoses to the front calipers.

 

In retrospect, I should have simply ran two hoses from the front master.

 

:080402gudl_prv:

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have just delinked the system on my '83, and I used a double banjo bolt with two 46" stainless lines, works great, from master cyl to both calipers. I also picked up two gold calipers from an 86 FZ750 that will go on next, just because they match my gold and beige paint hehe...I would have used the rear also, but the banjo bolt mounts under the FZ caliper, which would hit the bracket...:(

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I mounted the two FZ750 gold calipers yesterday, and the braking is Excellent.... way better than the stock calipers, and being de-linked the front brakes are quite superior to the old linked setup... I am very pleased, and the calipers math the paint! :080402gudl_prv:

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I mounted the two FZ750 gold calipers yesterday, and the braking is Excellent.... way better than the stock calipers, and being de-linked the front brakes are quite superior to the old linked setup... I am very pleased, and the calipers math the paint! :080402gudl_prv:

 

Is the FZ750 a quad piston caliper?

 

I have a pair of 1996 YZF750 calipers for the RSV Hybrid I am working on that are six piston. Great brakes supposedly, but hard to find. Bike wasn't very popular in US.

 

Gary

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  • 4 months later...
i cant find skydoc17 on the forum, and I would love to try his de-link brake kit. Anyone?

 

This is out of the classifieds under member vendors, here's the link to the 1st gen delink and SS brake line kit.

 

http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3878&title=first-gens-sbrake-line-delink-kit-now-with-s-sclutch-line-21&cat=22

 

I have this set on my '86 with a set of R1 calipers on the front and there is a HUGE difference in the feel and stopping power now. I wish I had done it years ago, it's that good on an upgrade with the R1 calipers.

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I have just delinked the system on my '83, and I used a double banjo bolt with two 46" stainless lines, works great, from master cyl to both calipers. I also picked up two gold calipers from an 86 FZ750 that will go on next, just because they match my gold and beige paint hehe...I would have used the rear also, but the banjo bolt mounts under the FZ caliper, which would hit the bracket...:(

 

+1 on that.

 

All you need to do the whole job, replacing everything with kevlar lined stainless brake lines is to go here: http://www.pashnit.com/product/galfer/galfer_buynow.html#front and buy the Vmax front lines with 8" over and the standard Vmax rear. I did communicate to Tim Mayhew there that I wanted two 45" lines for the front with a double banjo. You can get your lines any color you like and even the banjos can be colored for an added price. Tim will take your input and then order kits for you that will give you everything you need except the bolt to plug the old rear master port while you swing your new rear line to the old front port. The plug is a 10mmX1.25 flange head bolt cut down to 8mm to 10mm in length and the end threads smoothed a little with a fine file. Ace Hardware has a 16mm long bolt in stainless that you can start with. There has been some discussion of gutting the proportional valving on the rear master but it doesn't seem necessary when the fluid can only go out the only open port left. While it's not absolutely necessary to replace the rear line to unlink the brakes, it is necessary if you move the line to the old front port, and the stainless line will perform better. There may be even better sources for these items but my experiences were good with the vendors I used. Pashnit provides free shipping and he even started out doing motorcycle touring on a Venture Royale, there's a write-up of that experience on his website!

 

2 - 45" front any color overlength 8" = $110

1 - 10mm X 1.25 stainless flange head bolt = $4

 

1 - standard Vmax rear brake line = $52

 

Your kits will include at least all of the copper washers that you will need.

 

One more thing, Earl is a little like Seinfeld's Soup Nazi. If you don't ask him for a delink kit just the right way, it's "No soup for you". Trust me.

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Yes the double banjo and line over fender works good. Same as new sport bikes. That is how I delinked the MACHINE. Only problem is my original line is so old it is still spongy. To bleed left brake line you remove caliper while line is still attached, I placed mine on a steel channel (placed inbetween pads)blocked up to allow air to rise, bleed as normal. reinstall. Looks good too. Only one line going down forks. A electronic speedo is next to clean up front end and get rid of hp robbing mechical drive(1/4hp). Good luck

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  • 2 weeks later...
I have just delinked the system on my '83, and I used a double banjo bolt with two 46" stainless lines, works great, from master cyl to both calipers. I also picked up two gold calipers from an 86 FZ750 that will go on next, just because they match my gold and beige paint hehe...I would have used the rear also, but the banjo bolt mounts under the FZ caliper, which would hit the bracket...:(

 

So I assume the double banjo bolt just screws into the master where the front goes in and then connect the lines up front? Sounds to easy. Am I missing something?

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So I assume the double banjo bolt just screws into the master where the front goes in and then connect the lines up front? Sounds to easy. Am I missing something?

 

 

Nope, it IS easy. Fine points are copper washer between each of bolt, line, line, housing. So basically a copper washer for each comma in the previous sentence, get it? Copper washer on either side of line banjo at caliper mount point. Also, MUST PLUG one side of rear master where the line toward the front left had gone unless switching ports. Good idea to replace rear line with SS braided one and move connection to port used by front left caliper on stock VR and plugging stock rear port instead. I drained the existing line to the left front at the rear master and at the left front caliper, opening the bleed valve that is near the right handlebar clamp to get air into the line. I cut off the old left front line to caliper near the frame and left the metal line and rest of that infrastructure in place.You could probably roll it up and zip tie it in case someone wants to make it stock config for some crazy reason. It may make it less confusing to the new owner if you sell it but it's really not hurting anything to have it there. Be sure to clean up the brake fluid that gets on the frame or plastics.

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I actually see no reason why it would not work with the double banjo set up. Some may be concerned that pressure may not apply equally' date=' but the pressure in a closed system is actually self equalizing. Just make sure both calipers are the same.[/quote']

 

I used double banjo it works fine.

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Hey Motorcycle Jockey,

 

I used almost exactly the same setup as you describe on my '84...with mixed results. (All because I did not like the concept of the linked braking system.)

 

I ran 1 line from the front master all the way down to the right caliper. Then a double banjo at the right caliper and a line up over the fender to the left caliper. Everything fit perfectly and looks fine to me.

 

The rear flexible line remained the same, but the proportioning valve was gutted and the extra port plugged. (The junction block under the fairing was also removed.)

 

Now the results! The front brakes are ok, but really lack the appropriate stopping power. The front master is now pushing on twice the caliper so it's difficult to make a sudden stop. Difficult but not impossible, it just takes more pull force than you'd expect. The rear brakes are very "wooden", meaning that when you push on the rear you go from no brake to full brake too quickly. There is very little you can do to feather the brake or apply it gently.

 

This setup cost me nothing in new parts and I think I got my money's worth. I started cheap, trying to not invest too much in the bike since it was new to me and I didn't really know how long I would keep it. But now I'm addicted. I've learned to make it work by applying the front firmly and the rear lightly, but after 2 years of riding it this way I'm making plans to upgrade...

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A electronic speedo is next to clean up front end and get rid of hp robbing mechical drive(1/4hp). Good luck

 

I put a Trail Tech Vapor on my DR650 dual sport and like it very much. It uses a magnet and sensor to give speed reading and is as accurate as your measurement of the tire circumference, which of course will decrease with wear. For your $100 investment you get another temperature sensor and another tachometer too. The tach is redundant but the temp sensor could be used under a spark plug to get the head temp or on a bolt of the transmission or crankcase vs the water temp that is indicated by the built-in gauge. It also has two lights, yellow and red, that indicate a set of warnings or errors such as temp above range, etc. another function of the lights is as shift indicator. I have mine set to light the yellow at around 5500rpm and the red at around 6500rpm, as I recall.

 

They are model specific but the only really picky aspect is the speed sensor. On the DR I removed a bolt from the rotor and replaced it with the magnetic bolt provided. The sensor was tricky , the caliper bracket needed a hole for a self tapping screw to mount the sensor where it could pick up the magnet from the disc. I looked at the Venture to see if the kit I had installed would work with it and I think that it would work well on the rear disc. An alternate method would have you glue a small barrel magnet into a slot on the disc, which is also provided.

 

You could probably get just speed info the least expensively by buying a cheap bicycle computer and figuring out a way to mount the sensor and magnet, but I wouldn't expect it to be pretty or as reliable. Look for a bicycle computer that would have you tie-wrapping the magnet sensor to the inside of the fork. Then you just need to attach a magnet so that it passes the line on the sensor close enough to be detected when the wheel turns.

 

Good luck!

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  • 2 months later...

I am putting a double banjo bolt and running two brake lines down from the front brake master cylinder to the two front brakes as the left front was disabled when I bought the bike.[Hope this will work]

 

Question: When I took the left front brake line off, a small pin fell out. [looks like a flat head nail with the flat head part facing toward the line. Is there a pin in there that broke off?

Edited by jerrysleather
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Now the results! The front brakes are ok, but really lack the appropriate stopping power. ...

 

I am using the original front master routed to a coupler and separate braided brake lines down to each front caliper. At first the brakes seemed lacking, however, I found my '85 front master has an adjustable plunger under the handle. I turned it in to increase stroke and the brakes work pretty well. Not as well as my ZX11 Ninja, but, it weighs 200+ pounds less and has dual-pot brakes with larger rotors. The Ninja better work better!

 

The rear brake master is gutted and plugged and feels very wooden. I'm not sure why.

 

I have never felt my Venture's modified brakes were not up to the task . . . :)

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