van avery

Have you tried the repair? Here is the link I used it to repair one on an 85 Royale I'm currently working. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?493-CLASS-E4-Error-Repair Cheaper than buying one and quicker. Good luck.

Painterman67, I'd say you won the bass ring. What's the next target. Been setting for some time now, we should get started again.

I'd replace the spark plugs if you haven't already done that. You can also use a good plug and test each cylinder by pulling the plug wire off the installed cylinder plug and hook it to your good plug then make sure its grounded and make sure you have spark it won't be a big bright spark just a small one at best with the old original TCI. The other thing would be to cut off about 1/4 inch of the sparkplug wires at the coil end some times they get corroded. You might have bad TCI if its the original. I just had to get a new one for an 85 I'm working on. Purchased from IgniTech. Try putting it in the search box and you will find several posts. Here is what I got from them for the required package" IGNITECH - Jiří Krejzl Aug 4 to me Hello, * We can offer to you unit TCIP4 with connector adapter. This is plug and play connection. * unit TCIP4 full version 88********************************************************************************************************** 149 USD connector adapter********************************************************************************************************************** 6 USD freightage DHL ***************************************************************************************************************************** 52 USD * Useful accessories is USB/COM cable for connection to PC*************************************** 15 USD * Payment method is card payment or PayPal. If you want it - send me your address for invoice and your phone number for DHL. * Regards. * Jiri Krejzl IGNITECH Good luck hope that helps

Here is another repair method. I sanded the end of a dowel to the correct shape and then attached it to the side cover with "Rapid fix". Did it about 3 years ago and it still works just fine.

Sounds like your pilot jets are plugged. You might try the shotgun method of cleaning but most likely you need to pull the carbs and clean really good. When you open the "choke" it really is letting gas bypass the pilot jets and feed gas to the intakes. The other thing I would check first is that you don't have a bad vacuum leak. Check the YICS hoses and canister if you haven't already removed and plugged. If you have removed check to make sure you don't have a vacuum plug blown off or broken. Spray starting fluid , wd40, or carb cleaner around the intakes with the engine running to see if you have a leak. If you do the system will rev up..

There is a nice looking 88 on craigslist for $1500. But most bikes look good from several feet away. http://houston.craigslist.org/mcy/5777190635.html

FYI . I talk to my friend last night and he has a very nice 90 Royale.. Looks like the blue bike in the earlier pictures. Said he would take 3500 for it. He is planning to be at the maintenance day this Saturday.

Tom If you make it down for the maintenance day I got a 87 Royale you can try out. I've got a friend close who wanted to sell his. I believe his is a early 90's with several upgrades. The 1st gens are tall top heavy bikes. If your not a 6 footer or better it may not be the bike for you. I ride mine more often than I take my GL1800. See Ya around.

I have heard of cases where older hydraulic line will make like fish scales inside and block the inside of the line when pressured up. I once had a 83 venture that the clutch acted that way. I squeezed it really hard and things straightened out. Just a side note if the screws "Hex head type" are the same as on a 1st gen do not use the cheap ball head Allen wrench from harbor freight the ball end will break off if they are too tight. I got lucky and a magnet pulled the little ball out. I then invested in the correct Allen socket. When you get the screws out and move the wiring and brackets out of the way you drift the slave cylinder down and twist and it will come out. Note how because it has to go back. Good luck

Tom, If your interested we are having a maintenance day this coming weekend ( Saturday) about 40 minutes South of you in Sweeny Tx. There will be several ventures First and Second generation bikes and some others here and very knowledgeable owners to talk with. Here is a link to the calendar site http://www.venturerider.org/forum/calendar.php?do=getinfo&e=478&day=2016-10-15&c=1 Please sign up if you plan to come down. Here is a link to the original forum post. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?122882-SE-texas-Maintenance-day&p=987578#post987578 Hope to see you here.

I get about 21 1/2 " on my stock 87 Royale from the center of the front trim to the top of the Plexiglas. Hope that helps.

Welcome to the site. Looks like you have a job ahead of you. I'm working on an 85 Royale right now. PO took it apart to paint several years ago then stopped. You might be interested in the Maintenance day here in Sweeny TX on Oct 15 weekend. Here is the link to the calendar. To sign up if your interested. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/calendar.php?do=getinfo&e=478&day=2016-10-15&c=1 Should be several riders here familiar with 1st gens. First thing I would do is make sure it turns over and then try it on some starting fluid. Then you might want to check on the title. At least with an 86 your should not have to worry about second gear issue. Good luck and looking forward to your progress. Here's what mine looks now

If the cylinder starts to run fine around 3500 RPM, I second that it is most likely the pilot jet being plugged. When your reinstalling the carbs a little Vaseline helps get them down in place. When pulling and installing the air box it's best to keep the "z" shaped tube attached to the air box. It much easier the thread it back into place.

Just purchased one from IGNITECH for $222. Here is the contact info: ignitech@ignitech.cz Need to tell them what bike and year you have and they will send you infor and pricing. The package with the new TCI with the correct connectors to plug in to the bike , a CD with the correct program, the correct patch cord to connect to you computer. There is a small CD with the patch cord that you have to install on your computer to make the connection/patch cord work. Once you get it you need to put in in the bike and connect your computer to TCI on the bike The 12 volt from the bike powers the TCI so you can down load the programming to it. Here was the pricing I got the first of August for an 1985 :Royale I'm working on now: unit TCIP4 full version 88 149 USD connector adapter 6 USD freightage DHL 52 USD Useful accessories is USB/COM cable for connection to PC 15 USD Hope that helps. I would not purchase old TCI. I do have an 87 Royale that still runs fine on the original but who knows how long.

I've use some stuff called "Rapid Fix". It a two component mix, one bottle is a liquid like super glue and the second bottle is a powder. When you mix the two the powder set up immediately and is hard as a rock and can be machined , sanded ,etc. I used it on my 87 to fix many cracks and even secure a wooden dowel in place of one of the side cover posts. Costs between 20 and 30 dollars on the internet and some auto parts and some ACE hardware store carry it. I had a cracked cover on a 83 Goldwing saddlebag that I could not get to hold together, ( internal stress) until a friend let me try the rapid fix on it. Worked like a charm. I have found a few things it would not adhere to but generally its great stuff. I even fixed the broken off outlet nozzle on the gas pump on the 85 Royale I working on now. I have not tried the newer "Rapid fix" UV light hardening glue yet. Just ordered some yesterday. .

Take the charged battery to the Auto parts store and have then test it. May not be putting out the amps needed. If that not it. One thing that drove me nuts is that I had Goldwing with 12V at the ignition switch with a VOM but not enough amps passing at the main fuse, Use a head light to test the system back to ground and you might find a bad connection. Good luck

Got them stashed in different area also have some 86 Goldwing interstate mixed in. Trying to bring back an 85 Royale but that's another rack of parts. PO disassembled it about 5 ears ago to paint then lost intrest.

Your original question "A few others at 0.08 MM and 0.10. What does this mean when they are under the 0.11 to 0.15 MM?" Means that the valves that are too tight will open earlier and close later than they were designed and your compression may well be reduced in that cylinder.

Here is a ink to more info on aftermarket TCI. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?40414-Aftermarket-TCI-available!&highlight=Ignitech Couple years ago I had an Ignitech TCI for an 83 and did not have to do anything with the Vacuum except plug off the port. it ran much better with the new TCI but It might have been even better with the other modifications shown in the above link. I tried the original " replace the diodes" in mine but that did not work there was also a bad capicator I replaced but that did not help either. Good luck with your project.

I send you a PM. Got one out of a out of an old set ( there was originally four). Next thing I expect to see is a one up showing a cows utter

A friend has an 82 Goldwing with brown seat that has turned sticky. Like a ashesive residue. Does anyone know how to remove this, or does he need to replace the seat covers. His daughter did not believe him when he told her it was a new safety device to keep her in the seat. Have tried goo gone, peanut butter , wd40 and vinyl cleaner and its still sticky. Any Ideas?????

Glad you got it back together. Nice looking ride. Hope he enjoys it for many smiles.

Steve Wanted to make sure you got my PM's on the valves. They should just push through after you remove the keepers, cap and springs. Make sure when grinding them that you don't get any of the grinding compound any farther up the valve than the head of the valve. Clean them off real good after you grind them you can also tell if they are seated correctly when you shine a BRIGHT light through the intake and exhaust ports and you don't see any light in a dark room. If there is any light you need to grind more.

You were right, the rear bulbs were replaced with LEDS. Found short in the wiring for the rear running lights (PO) had pushed wire together and then used shrink wrap just before fuse connection. Throttle cable was frayed on the small pull cable to the carbs. Have one on order. I believe that was the problem with the cruise control too.

Had some health problems since starting this but finally got back on it in short periods. Finally found that the intake valves on number 2 cylinder were carboned up and not sealing. Had very low compression on that cylinder. Hooked up air line to the hose on the compression tester and had real good air flow back thru the carb. Pulled front head and lapped the valves and then treated the rings with some marvel mystery oil and the compression came much back up. I still was not getting heat on the exhaust pipe #2 , and very low vacuum when trying to sync carbs. So pulled carbs and cleaned (PO had them professionally cleaned) and I found two carbs had the idle jets plugged. While there I replaced the o rings under the intake boots. Runs much better now. Now I’ve got to work on the tail light indicator, comes on when I use the brakes. The cruise control won’t set and the CB turns on but I don’t hear it transmit, and the throttle doesn’t return as it should.