saddlebum

Definitely breathable as well as water proof is important otherwise we could just wrap everything in plastic.

X-Large Nelson Rigg UV-2000 half cover on my 1st gen MKII

Yup and I have even overhauled the master and replaced the slave. BTW I may be a stubborn old saddle tramp but I have already addressed all the aforementioned and common issues hence the mystery of it all. You would almost think the clutch push rod gets shorter as the engine warms up and returns to its normal lenght as the bike cools but there again why would this also affect the gear position switch. Over the past three years I have gone over everything a can think of more than once and have run out of ideas. Also I do not run any oil with friction modifiers usually use the yamaha oil since the dealer is close and gives me a good price on my oil. The only other oil I use is Lucas high performance motorcycle oil https://lucasoil.com/products/motorcycle-products/oils/lucas-high-performance-motorcycle-oils 10/40 or 20/50. I also do not use synthetic tried it once and did not like it as the engine ran quieter with non synthetic. I did have an old engine and transmission case which I have since discarded after robbing it of anything useful. I now which I still had it so I could dissect it and see what the common factor or part is that would cause both the clutch hydraulics and the gear position switch to be affected at the same time.

Clutch is definitly not slipping. My previuos clutch was that is why I replaced it some years back. Plus a slipping clutch would not affect the gear position indicator switch. As I already said, fluid has been replaced a few times and I have used various methods to bleed the system. I deal with all kinds of hydraulic systems in my work so I am no stranger hydraulic brakes and clutches. The gears are difficult to change even when you rock the bike back and forth with the engine shut off. But no issues when engine cools down. And as I stated you can sit there and watch the neutral light magicaly pop on once the bike cools down to a certian point.

So here is the mystery Let me start by saying the bike is an 89 venture royale clutch was replaced with a barnett coil spring conversion with carbon fibber disks. clutch slave has been replaced and the system has been bled more than I can remember and in various ways. 1st engine is cold clutch works perfectly neutral easy to find neutral light comes on and gear position switch works perfectly. Now engine eventually warms up to max operating temperature, Clutch lever feels like all fluid has been removed from the system, neutral is impossible to find and when in 2nd gear it is not displayed on the dash its just blank. In stop and go traffic it gets so bad that as you come to a stop the bike stalls because A the clutch will not disengage and B you cannot get it in neutral. When you hit the starter to restart the bike once traffic starts moving even though you have the clutch lever pulled in the bike actually rolls forward as the starter turns the engine over. So now you stop somewhere for a break you fuss until you finally find neutral but because the neutral light is not on the engine quits as soon as you put down the kick stand. While sitting there with the key on you watch as the the bike finally cools down to a point where the neutral light suddenly comes on and low and behold you can now start the bike and leave it running with the kickstand down. Now once the bike is fully cooled down its as if the fluid magically reappears in the clutch release system and all is normal again complete with a good firm clutch lever. :bang head:... Any ideas...

I just noticed there are two posts with reference to Bongbobny, Bongobobny update and Update on Bongobobny. Any following along should keep an eye on both posts. Unless Freebird there is a way to combine both posts into one. In the meantime still praying for Bob and Becky also sent a card Hope he gets to read it and then some.

I just noticed there are two posts with reference to Bongbobny, Bongobobny update and Update on Bongobobny. Any following along should keep an eye on both posts. Unless Freebird there is a way to combine both posts into one. In the meantime still praying for Bob and Becky also sent a card Hope he gets to read it and then some.

I actually wondered about that when I started looking into it more. Just checked $16.50 for a can in cowpucs case $3,309.00 for a 45 gallon drum so he can take that bath. https://www.aircraftspruce.ca/catalog/cspages/acf50.php

And The Beat Goes On.

I paid $16.99 per can Canadian not sure if that's a great price or not I was just so happy to see it I really didn't care. But if you look on the acf-50 website they even sell it in huge bulk containers.

Ditto that and still praying for him and Becky.

..............

Approx 40 years ago we used a product called ACF-50 for corrosion prevention on wiring connections (there was no heat shrink in those days). We also used it on light bulb sockets, door locks, hinges and ignition systems. I had one can left that I saved and used very sparingly over the years because I never ever saw the stuff again and assumed it was no longer available. About three years ago my engine started misfiring and I narrowed it down to a faulty ignition unit. I had acquired a replacement unit and was in the process of switching it out when I noticed the terminals where badly corroded. Decided to try cleaning it with some contact cleaner when I stumbled across my cherished can of ACF-50. Grabbing the can I proceeded to clean and treat all and every connection I could get to. Well needless to say the bike has run like a charm ever since. When my handle bar switches started to get sticky and malfunction, instead of taking them apart and cleaning them as is the normal fix I simply reached in with an extension straw and saturated the inside of the switches and they again performed like new. Even worked wonders on the release for my Zumo 660 mount which took to sticking badly and became difficult to press and release my GPS from the mount. Well this week I went into the local bike dealer to pick up some S-100 when what did I spy with my little blue eye but cans of ACF-50. Needless to say I bought 2 cans. I later decided to check the internet for it and this is what I found. http://learchem.com/industry/motorcycle.html http://learchem.com/products/acf-50.html acf-50-mc-eng.pdf I also found it is available on Amazon.

@luvmy40 I have had a few covers. My favorite out of the bunch so far has been the Nelson Rigg both in the full cover and Half cover. The X-Large Nelson Rigg UV-2000 half cover fits my Gen1, MK2 like it was custom fitted.

Still praying for Bob. And hoping things are improving.

MMM I'm getting a sense of all talk no action here. Me thinks @BIG TOM may just have a point.

Praying that you pull through this Bobby and hoping to see you well and fit at the WNY Rally. Marita also sends her love to both you and Becky.

Yes thanks for sharing. A very sad time and yet uplifting in that so many shared their time and respect for these victims of yet another senseless loss of life.

Just saw this Wayne. Very sad news for sure. My condolences a d prayers to family and friends.

If your lucky it might just be a bearing. Some of the bearings simply have common bearing numbers on them making them somewhat available through sources other than Yamaha. the number is the actual bearing number the letters generally indicate open two sides, one side or fully packed and sealed and if sealed the type of seal. So in a pinch you should be able to find a bearing close enough to suit your needs if that is all you need. Bearings that are shot can crunch pretty loud and the pumpkin itself is generally pretty hardy and unless badly abused seldom fail. So Myself I would be leaning towards just a failed axle bearing if your lucky.

Even the best of Mechanics can have an off day or get pulled away in the middle of a job which lends to sometimes overlooking were you left off. A good mechanic will make it right a poor one will make excuses or even totally deny he did anything wrong. If you always had good re-pore with this guy then talk to him.

When you start your bike up on a cool morning do you even need to use the choke or does it fire right up without even using the choke? If it fires instantly on a cold morning without using the choke and then starts to spudder when it gets warm I would be inclined to think the fuel enrichment valves are sticking open. That's not an uncommon problem and quite often when carbs get rebuilt this also gets overlooked by bike shops that do the rebuilding. Another thing to look for is fuel drpping on the ground while idling indicating a malfunction needle and float.

Would that honour be retroactive seeing as how the new pier was not there when I was awarded the honour of being declared number one hugger

Think positive Bobby..... You know we can.t not have you there.