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Three thing that make me cringe when I hear them mentioned. Al Sharpton, Jessie Jackson, and the ACLU. None of which I can remember doing much good for anyone. And this "executive order" thing is beginning to make its way in there too.

I would say creatively painted. Maybe plasti-dip. The wheels show rust, last I knew they were aluminum. Could be photo shopped, but this "rat bike" craze is getting out of hand in some instances. That looks like a fairly new model. Now the paint on my PU looks similar and I can assure you its ah-natural

In Oct we were up in Northern Ga and one day we were in so much fog and rain you couldn't hardly see. Finally stopped at a Wally World and got a small bathroom squeegee. That way I could squeegee the back side of windshield. The front wasnt bad, and the rag on the back wasnt working as it became to soaked I guess.

I mounted one like this on my 900 Kawasaki, inside the fairing. Tab of velcro glued inside and stuck antenna to it. It probably worked as good on that radio as my RSV antenna works for this bike. It sure dont seem to have a lot of distance.

Looks like someone modified a meter maid scooter.

Friesman, I saw some like that on e-bay. but looked awfully big. I mean I would like more light and all but dont want to mount up like landing lights off an airplane. Still would like a little style. lol

Here is the listing off the site. Color:Black/Silver Material: Aluminum alloy Light Power: 30W Actual Power: 9~12W Environment Temperature: -40 ~ +40 ℃ Flux: 1200LM/W Input voltage AC·DC: ±12 ~ 60V Universal Light Color: White Temperature Protection: when the internal temperature exceeds the rated temperature, it will be automatically reduced to low light to work. Advantages: low power consumption, good waterproof effect, headlight life no maintenance, environmental protection.

I agree on the many unexpected things pop up rebuilding. If your going to do it, you might as well figure to replace just about every wearable part in motor. Sucks, but the truth is if the motor has say 80K on it and you only put new parts in one cyl the others are 80K. Oil seals etc after sitting are not going to be as limber etc. just bad karma all the way around.

Skeeter, are you talking about passing type light kit at the $250 price or driving type lights? At this point in time on these bikes anyways a fellow is well advised to add LED or HID lighting because of the already known electrical issues. As someone mentioned type of beam and use needs to be known for some suggestions. I have been looking at additional lights like these and mount them on the forks maybe.

Sent you a PM again. Let me know if it made it. If not send me a PM and we will get this going for you.

If they are in the way could cut them off. Or you could cut some strips of wood or something to level it off so the nubs dont mess it up.

I learned about the brake fluid on this bike the hard way. Had them fade out while on a trip in NC mountains with the wife on the bike. I wasn't riding them or acting sporty, but the bozo in front of me in the range rover must have never been in hills before. I got bike wooed down but heart was pounding pretty good. I thought I had a leak the pedal went so far. 20-30 min of rest and it was fine the rest of the trip. Tires, I knew we had a trip planned for this Oct. Tires probably would have been OK but I errored on the cautious side and changed them. Good thing I did as we rode in more rain than expected and the new tread was appreciated. Even though I put "bargain" type Shinkos on it. So far they have been good.

I tried to send yu a PM, but it says I am at my limit. SO need to ask the boss here whats going on. Anyways here is a thread.

What happens is the clearance gets closer (tight) The spring on the valve is trying to pull the valve further into the head, thus closing the gap. So then you need a thinner shim. Now if you need some 288 shims let me know, I seem to have an over abundance of them.

This is the one I have. Its from Sears, but I certainly did not pay $200 for it. I think closer to $125. I like that the front wheels are out side the frame and give a bit more stability in my mind.

I bet you will like it. We love ours.

I also use open office. Good program. As for the infection try malware bytes. Its free and gets rid of alot of pesky stuff.

Dont they have to rehardened after grinding them down?

I didnt even do that when I did the valves and changed fluid on mine. I drained what I could and flushed it with clear water and I think it was vinegar solution. then clear water and drained refill with coolant.

Something to remember on those numbers. It is total motorcycles sold. So all those 50 and 70cc bikes you saw for decades in Vietnam, Thailand and third world countries were mainly Honda. But still that is a ton of work for people in that country. I remember when I would go to the PI when that base was still ours, you got to the main gate and could get a bike with a side car to take you just about anywhere in town. And there were hundreds of them.

MiCarl, kind of better explanation of my suggestion I think. Thats why I attached my work sheet. It has a couple blanks. I use one for the shim thats in it and the other for my measurement. So if say there is a .300 in there and its tight you know where you can get one from should you have say a .310 somewhere that needs to be replaced. In my searching E-bay for shims, most of the time I have found them cheaper if you look for say 25mm valve shim or the other bikes it will fit. Honda CB750, CB750C, CB750F, CB750K, CB750SC dohc (79-83) CB900C, CB900F, CB1000C, CB1100F, CBX (all) Triumph Hinckly triples and fours Speed Triple, Tiger, Daytona, Trophy, Sprint * All watercooled three and four cyl. models* Yamaha SRX250T (87) SRX250TC (87), XT250L & XT250LC Dual (84) TT350, XT350 (86-00) XJ600 Seca II (92-98) XVZ12 XVZ13 Venture Royale Royal Star (83-93) XVZ1200, XVZ12 VMX1200 V-Max (85-02) Vmax, VMX12 FJ1100, FJ1200 (84-93)

Should be. All you are doing is changing the size of the bore. I think on another forum I am on has a motor for sale. Dont recall if its a 1200 or 1300.

I would say some spacers for the leaky plugs behind the faux fins. but you probably can make them for .10 a piece.

I use a sheet I put together, to refer to so I knew which shim was in what hole. Valve check settings work sheet.xls

Here is an idea. You are going to do both bikes. Check both, and like suggested measure twice. In order to know what shims to oder is out of tolerance, you need to know what it currently has in it. I will almost bet if you keep a sheet of what is in where, measure then you know what you need. You can probably move shims around between bikes and have one up and running and the order parts and fix the other. I have a bag full of shims and probably 10 or more are so big you would never use them unless the head had just been redone.