Prairiehammer

This is probably going to be of interest to First Gen guys, since the Second Gen guys already have driving/passing lights. Many, if not most, of us First Gen guys have auxiliary driving/fog/passing lights added. Many, if not most, of these added auxiliary lights have halogen H3 bulbs. My question: Has anyone found a LED replacement unit for the H3 bulb? I mean, a replacement that is really good and bright and has a proper focal point for your existing driving light reflector. I am hesitant to replace my nice vintage chrome driving light housing (they are original Cibie from VentureLine), but I would like to reduce the electrical load of these halogen bulbs by substituting an simple and effective LED unit/bulb. But I am not so keen on a LED, if it is just going to scatter a meager light in all directions, like a flood light. I want a a moderately narrow beam, just as the H3 currently provides. Any worthy suggestions?

That is the Rivale. My picture is of the 800 Dragster. http://www.2ri.de/Images/Big/0/MV_Agusta_Brutale_800_Dragster_2014.jpghttp://i1.wp.com/www.asphaltandrubber.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/2014-MV-Agusta-Rivale-800-29.jpg

Factory Streetfighter.

Here's another custom build that has been flying under the radar, Raven MotoCycles and yes, this one is on eBay, or rather, the opportunity to own the first production model from the company. The specific bike you see here is the very first prototype of a brand new special, powered, in this case, by a Moto Guzzi 750cc engine from a 1971 Ambassador. The wheels, swingarm, brakes, forks and steering stem are from a '68 Honda 350. The transmission is a Norton 4 speed. The frame, tank and exhaust are hand built. I recognized the Moto Guzzi engine immediately. Search found in under thirty seconds. Hell Yeah!! http://thekneeslider.com/images/2011/12/raven-motorcycles.jpghttp://thekneeslider.com/images/2011/12/raven-motorcycles-2.jpg

Well, that surprised this First Gen rider. I didn't know that a Second Gen could lean that far before things started to drag. Good 'un, Skid. Just remember: keep the shiny side up!

F1 anyone?

2006 Yamaha MT-0S concept. http://www.totalmotorcycle.com/photos/prototype-spy-concept/Yamaha-2006-MT-OSconcepth.jpg http://nice-cool-pics.com/data/media/16/yamaha_mt-0s_concept.jpghttp://www.abload.de/img/mt-01-liberty-2x9c85.jpg

Remember: Make, Model, Year!

I recognized the VFR swing arm and portions of the body work of a VFR. Honda VFR 1200 V6 (concept). http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OZqp2B6VqLk/USMXZAK3WwI/AAAAAAAAwYU/w5JAB2cKeog/s1600/Honda-VFR-1200-V6-Price-.jpg

So, this LED will replace ANY H4 halogen bulb? Where does one find this LED H4 kit? I know you said you had only tried it in the garage, but as with HID bulb conversions, the emitting point of the 'filament' is crucial when used with the stock reflector. That mismatched focal point has been the downfall of HID conversions. I am curious as to the focal point of this LED. Watching this thread with anticipation of good things to follow.

The anti-dive mechanism on your 1991 Venture has no connection to the hydraulic brake system. From 1986, the anti-dive were electical. When one talks about bleeding the anti-dive of air, they are referring to the 1983-1985 Ventures. That era used hydraulic anti-dive, tied into the brake lines. You do not bleed the anti-dive on your bike. Have you discovered the brake bleeder up near the steering head? If not, utilize that bleeder to good effect in addition to the ones on the calipers. The aforementioned bleeder is on the brake line from the rear master cylinder to the left front caliper. I hope I am not sounding condescending, but perhaps you don't know that the left front brake and the rear are activated by the brake pedal, and the right front caliper is activated by the brake lever on the handlebar.

Right up your alley, hell yea.

2015 CHAK MOTORS MOLOT http://www.tuvie.com/wp-content/uploads/2015-chak-motors-molot-by-igor-chak3.jpg http://www.blessthisstuff.com/imagens/stuff/2015-chak-motors-molot-4.jpg http://www.blessthisstuff.com/imagens/stuff/2015-chak-motors-molot.jpg http://pictures.topspeed.com/IMG/crop/201311/chak-motors-molot-05_600x0w.png

CF Moto also offers a sport tourer that looks pretty nice, although, being built in China, apparently the quality is not very good. http://650tk.com.au/assets/650TR2.jpg

Interesting. The identical bike is called a WK 650i in the UK. http://www.nemc.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/WK-650I-Blue.jpg http://www.nemc.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/WK-650I-Blue.jpg

Huh? What are 'spooge' holes?

Again, not familiar with the IPad, but on my PC, if any one of the pictures that you want to upload are too big, only the pic that is small enough to get through the 'auto resizer' will show. Usually, if there is a too large picture, it will take a lo-o-o-ng time before the error message comes on, indicating that the upload failed. Here is proof that multiple picture uploads can work, though:

I thought the title was Liar in Chief. There, that should kill this thread.

When you attempt to upload pictures from your IPad do you see this dialogue window: If so, select as many 'Browse' buttons as pictures, uploading a picture for each button. I don't use or have an IPad, so if it different than a PC in that regards, I'm of no help.

For what it is worth: the bike appears to be a 1986, not a 1987. At least the paint indicates a 1986, as does the XV'C'13D (a 1986 would be a XVZ13DS, while a 1987 would be a XVZ13DT). Confirm via VIN the year, not that it is a deal breaker, just sayin. BTW, I collect Venture VIN and am curious about the VIN of this bike. If you don't mind, would you relay the VIN when you find out what it is? http://toronto.kijiji.ca/c-ViewAdLargeImage?AdId=579104470

While the matte black seems stealthy and rather 'cool', I would think that the PD would want to make their motorcycles more visible for safety. Most police motorcycles in the UK, Asia and Europe are almost fluorescent with 'safety' lime or yellow on a white background. Perhaps the motives of the city of Marana is to generate income via concealed radar equipped motorcycles? Why else would a police officer want to be 'stealthy'?

Duane, When you describe the pedal as "stiff", are you describing the action of the pedal? Does the pedal return easily after it is depressed? If not, a cleaning and lube is in order. Then clean and lube and adjust as needed the other pivot points in the rear brake linkage. If your description of stiff has more to do with the feel of the braking when depressing the pedal forcibly, what some have described as a "wooden" brake pedal, you will have to investigate all the components of the hydraulic system to determine if there may be a blockage somewhere. If there is a blockage in the hydraulics, the pedal may feel 'hard' and the rear brake may seem ineffective. Perhaps the rear brake caliper is not receiving the hydraulic pressure generated when the brake pedal is depressed. Try to confirm that the proportioning valve attached to the rear master cylinder is clean, full of fluid (no air) and is allowing fluid flow to the rear caliper. To check for this: loosen the rear caliper bleeder while depressing the brake pedal; as soon as you crack the bleeder, fluid should emit and the pedal should begin sinking. If you find that this does not occur, then move to the next point. The next point is the banjo bolt fitting on the rear caliper. Test as before. If there is noticeable fluid emission and the pedal sinks, then the problem probably lies in the caliper. If there is no fluid emission when the banjo bolt is cracked and the pedal depressed, you must move to the next joint; the banjo bolt connection on the proportioning valve where the hose to the rear caliper attaches. Repeat the test as before. If, fluid emits now, then the problem lies in the rear brake hose; some have found deteriorated inner lining of the brake hose has blocked fluid flow. If at any of the mentioned connections you fail to get fluid when the pedal is depressed, the proportioning valve is faulty, dirty or blocked. It is possible that the proportioning valve has been disassembled by others and was re-assembled incorrectly. The proportioning valve can also appear to be perfect internally and yet not perform as intended, DAHIK.

Thanks, Gary. Soon I will be getting a new harness and a MAP sensor from you for the '83. As for the reprogramming, I have the USB cable required.

Need a hint? Here is a big hint: 中国首大摩托车到英国 春风

Gary, as you know I had an Ignitech on my '90 and I recovered the Ignitech after the wreck. I don't plan to install the '90s Ignitech into the '91, because I am not experiencing the strange behaviors of the '90 OEM TCI that caused me to change to the Ignitech. I am going to use the '90 OEM TCI as a spare for the '91. Will we be able to utilize the Ignitech that was originally intended for use on the '90 on my '83? Or is the Ignitech I have only workable on '90-'93 model Ventures?