Prairiehammer

As for the hijack concerning synthetic oil and leaks, consider this opinion: Myths about Synthetic Oils The most often cited myth concerning synthetic oil is that it will wear down the seals in your engine and cause leaks. That just isn't true. Well, for the most part, anyway. Like many myths, this one is based in fact. Early synthetics were made of esters, which were harder on seals, especially those made of neoprene. However, synthetic oils have come a long way since the early 1970s, and they're much nicer to delicate seals. But while synthetic oil won't create a leak, it will find one. Its streamlined molecular structure has no mercy for cracked or otherwise marginal seals. The oil and its additives may even clean deposits from the engine, which is good -- unless those deposits are acting like spackle on questionable seals. Related to this is the myth that if you started with mineral oil in your car, you can't switch to synthetic oil. As long as your engine's seals are in decent shape, you can switch back and forth to your heart's content. You can mix and match, you can use blended synthetic and mineral oil or you can use mineral oil for 3,000 miles (4,828 kilometers) and synthetic oil for the next 5,000 miles (8,047 kilometers). You could even fill your reservoir with five different oils from five different manufacturers, and as long as they're the same weight, it will do your engine no harm, according to David Canitz, technical services manager at Royal Purple.

Not all Amsoil is compatible with our motorcycles. If he insists on using Amsoil or ANY synthetic oil, make sure it is approved by the oil manufacturer for use with a motorcycle. Not all are approved. Some synthetic oil manufacturers specifically state NOT for motorcycle use. Is it safe to use Valvoline SynPower in a motorcycle with a wet clutch? No. Valvoline SynPower oils are not approved for use with a wet clutch. http://www.valvoline.com/faqs/motor-oil/full-synthetic-motor-oil/

The only time I ever messed with the desiccant on my Venture was to dry it out and it didn't look anything like yours when I removed it. My desiccant was more granular/angular and dry. Your oily looking spheres look unusual. Perhaps someone has already replaced the OEM desiccant with something else. Some silica gel desiccants are spherical. Some silica gels are 'non-indicating', meaning the crystals or spheres do not change color as the crystals absorb moisture. Try drying it out in a low heat oven (175°) for a couple hours and see if the color changes to blue and the oiliness is gone. If so, then replace the renewed spheres/crystals into the canister, making sure to sift out the fines. Sometimes the fines will get past foam filter and clog or jam the CLASS control valving. As for the deteriorating foam, seek some replacement filtering media and cut a disc of it and use that new filter in place of the crummy old one. This particular filter is just to keep the silica gel from migrating into the valve body, so any 'screen' of a suitable density should work. There is another filter at the intake of the compressor. Is this the foam that you show? If THAT filter has deteriorated, again find a suitable replacement, but the goal is to filter the intake air, so it should be a finer filter than the one intended to retain the silica gel.

There is a difference between Ride-On® brand and some other tire sealants, such as Slime®. Slime® is not recommended for our old aluminum wheels. Says so on THEIR website. Ride-On® IS safe for our aluminum wheels. Says so on THEIR website. As for the future tire changes, people I've spoken with who have used Ride-ON® find that tire changes are not affected and that the Ride-On® has not fouled the rims. YMMV. Point is: don't confuse different tire sealants. I think Ride-On® is the only one of the sealants that claims to balance the tire.

On my Venture there is no delay. The fuel gauge immediately shows the actual level when the ignition is switched on. No flickering. No fluctuating. Currently my tank shows three bars.

Beads worked for me.

Umm. Eck, I don't think it has started yet... July 27 through July 31, 2014

Western Kansas is nothing like Eastern Kansas. Eastern Kansas has HILLS (Flint Hills)! Western Kansas is why everyone thinks Kansas is flat.

Barring any intermittent ground or loose connection, the fuel level sensor should read 30Ω or less when tank is full, 160-180Ω when half full and 300Ω or more when tank is empty. As you see, if a connection is lost, the CMS thinks that the fuel tank is empty (300Ω+). I would revisit all the points you checked before, paying particular attention to the green/white wire and it's associated connections. Cleaning the fuel level sensor requires removing the metal box around the resistance coil. If you did so, make sure that you didn't inadvertently ground the resistance coil. Also double check that the resistance coil in the fuel sensor is making good contact to the wiper throughout the range of the float arm. Confirm that the fuel level sensor indicates the above noted readings. There have been instances where the fuel level sensor resistance coil armature is deformed. The result is an apparent empty fuel tank. Examine again the ohm readings through out the range. It should be linear.

After you replaced the ignition switch, did you restore the wiring to what it was before the bypass? If you are going to continue to use the bypass along with the new ignition switch, make sure that the bypass didn't get messed up. And is ON.

If you are just replacing the spark plug wires, there is no need to remove the coils. I removed the battery box and was able to replace the secondary (spark plug high tension) wires without removing the coils. If you HAVE to remove the coils for some other reason, then you will probably have to remove the fairings, both inner and outer.

Many years ago, I purchased spark plug wires for a 1994 Suzuki Swift, Autozone part #189740 and #189741 and installed them on my '83 Venture. A caveat: the boot at the spark plug end is intended for an automotive spark plug with the terminal nut installed on the plug end. The motorcycle spark plugs have no nut on the end, just the threaded stud. You will have to install spark plug terminal nuts onto your plugs in order for the automotive wires to make contact onto the motorcycle plugs. http://www.cnphele.com/en/UploadFiles/2009112612541202.jpg

Thanks guys for the pointers. I counter offered the seller $1500, but he won't budge from $2000. So, in light of the apparent too high value he has placed on this 21 year old trailer I am going to keep looking. I have filed your suggestions for the next time. I really would like a Bushtec, but it appears I can not afford one or justify that money for a garage queen that will be used once a year.

I've been looking for a Bushtec trailer for several months (since the demise of our old Dart trailer in the great state of Ohio) and finally found one locally. It is a 1993 Turbo+2 with the spoiler and lid rub rails on top, chrome tongue, bra and chrome rear bumper/light bar. It does not have a cooler, though. The seller wants $2000 for it. From what I have seen, that price is about right for that vintage, provided it is in good condition. I am going to inspect it tomorrow and I would like to know what to be on the lookout for when examining this trailer. Could you tell me some points to check? Thanks.

One can determine country of origin for any tire made by deciphering the DOT code molded into the sidewall: http://www.someotherplace.com/info/tiredotcode.jpg Armed with the first two digits/characters of the DOT code, go to this NHTSA table and enter those digits in the box "DOT ID". The manufacturing plant location will result. Alternately, go here and look up the manufacturer code.

Since the bike is still up on EBAY, put a bid in on it NOW. Before he closes it down. He will be obligated to adhere to the eBay buyer's contract. Hurry! http://www.ebay.com/itm/161370071988?forcerRptr=true&item=161370071988&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME:X:RTQ:MOTORS:1123

Doug, if you seeing the oil level "to the top of the glass, maybe a little above" you have overfilled it. The oil level should settle to between the hash marks on the sight glass. Most of the Ventures will pump oil into the air filter housing if the oil level is at the "max" line, so most of us try to maintain the level in the middle of the sight glass, equal distance from the "min" and "max" lines.

Found one! Orion Silver (blue) Standard, born on date 2/84, with 37K miles in Gilbert, Arizona. And it is only 314 miles away from you!

Though they are for a Honda, they will also fit my First Gen. And I need some for this bike. Thank you. PM me with your address and I will get a check out for the postage. Thanks.

The Environmental Protection Agency cautions that air cleaners outfitted with ultraviolet light are unlikely to kill bacteria and mold because they won't be in contact with UV light long enough to have any effect. http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/magazine-archive/2010/september/appliances/best-air-purifier/overview/index.htm

Bushtec hitch? http://www.wildcatforums.net/forum/attachments/wildcat-suspension-modifications/10928d1371655948-evolution-powersports-t6061-aluminum-hd-aluminum-tie-rods-hd-heim-joints-evops_wildcat_steering_rods_close.jpg Nope! Tie rod ends. Aluminum and stainless with Teflon. Perhaps a bit more expensive than a Bushtec hitch coupler, though. $240 pair. Pretty, though.

In case the non-farmers out there are wondering what Freezy is talking about: here is a pic of Cat1 Upper Link repair end ($11). BTW, Joe, ingenius! http://www.agrisupply.com/images/xl/32700.jpg

As you have seen, the dash/instrument panel are different over the years. The 1983 instrument panel was unique. Only year like it. As for the inconsistency in the CMS, it is most likely in need of a resolder and connector cleaning. As for the headlight, if there is not a bad filament (there are two, high and low beam), then check the plug connector at the bulb base, cleaning as needed. Inspect the 'modification' done by PO for good connection, hopefully it is nicely soldered and insulated. Finally, the 'relay' the PO spoke of is probably the Reserve Lighting unit. A failure of the RLU will give you the result you are experiencing with the headlight, but the RLU is supposedly bypassed? Perhaps, it isn't, or the bypass has failed. Bottom line, don't be too quick to swap out the instrument panel before doing further diagnosing.

"Unicorn!" THAT'S funny, I don't care what you believe in. If you ever hear from anyone and they provide you their VIN, let me know what it is, so I can enter the VIN into my (our) database.

Jeff, explained the process of removal. Here is a diagram of the front wheel assembly: BTW: This is a scan of the Service Manual. Note that there are two "meter clutch" depicted. The inboard (toward the center of the wheel) is the meter clutch. The other 'meter clutch' depicted is actually the 'gear unit'. Just another example of the many typos in the official Yamaha Service Manual.