Prairiehammer

Many years ago, I purchased spark plug wires for a 1994 Suzuki Swift, Autozone part #189740 and #189741 and installed them on my '83 Venture. A caveat: the boot at the spark plug end is intended for an automotive spark plug with the terminal nut installed on the plug end. The motorcycle spark plugs have no nut on the end, just the threaded stud. You will have to install spark plug terminal nuts onto your plugs in order for the automotive wires to make contact onto the motorcycle plugs. http://www.cnphele.com/en/UploadFiles/2009112612541202.jpg

Thanks guys for the pointers. I counter offered the seller $1500, but he won't budge from $2000. So, in light of the apparent too high value he has placed on this 21 year old trailer I am going to keep looking. I have filed your suggestions for the next time. I really would like a Bushtec, but it appears I can not afford one or justify that money for a garage queen that will be used once a year.

I've been looking for a Bushtec trailer for several months (since the demise of our old Dart trailer in the great state of Ohio) and finally found one locally. It is a 1993 Turbo+2 with the spoiler and lid rub rails on top, chrome tongue, bra and chrome rear bumper/light bar. It does not have a cooler, though. The seller wants $2000 for it. From what I have seen, that price is about right for that vintage, provided it is in good condition. I am going to inspect it tomorrow and I would like to know what to be on the lookout for when examining this trailer. Could you tell me some points to check? Thanks.

One can determine country of origin for any tire made by deciphering the DOT code molded into the sidewall: http://www.someotherplace.com/info/tiredotcode.jpg Armed with the first two digits/characters of the DOT code, go to this NHTSA table and enter those digits in the box "DOT ID". The manufacturing plant location will result. Alternately, go here and look up the manufacturer code.

Since the bike is still up on EBAY, put a bid in on it NOW. Before he closes it down. He will be obligated to adhere to the eBay buyer's contract. Hurry! http://www.ebay.com/itm/161370071988?forcerRptr=true&item=161370071988&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME:X:RTQ:MOTORS:1123

Doug, if you seeing the oil level "to the top of the glass, maybe a little above" you have overfilled it. The oil level should settle to between the hash marks on the sight glass. Most of the Ventures will pump oil into the air filter housing if the oil level is at the "max" line, so most of us try to maintain the level in the middle of the sight glass, equal distance from the "min" and "max" lines.

Found one! Orion Silver (blue) Standard, born on date 2/84, with 37K miles in Gilbert, Arizona. And it is only 314 miles away from you!

Though they are for a Honda, they will also fit my First Gen. And I need some for this bike. Thank you. PM me with your address and I will get a check out for the postage. Thanks.

The Environmental Protection Agency cautions that air cleaners outfitted with ultraviolet light are unlikely to kill bacteria and mold because they won't be in contact with UV light long enough to have any effect. http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/magazine-archive/2010/september/appliances/best-air-purifier/overview/index.htm

Bushtec hitch? http://www.wildcatforums.net/forum/attachments/wildcat-suspension-modifications/10928d1371655948-evolution-powersports-t6061-aluminum-hd-aluminum-tie-rods-hd-heim-joints-evops_wildcat_steering_rods_close.jpg Nope! Tie rod ends. Aluminum and stainless with Teflon. Perhaps a bit more expensive than a Bushtec hitch coupler, though. $240 pair. Pretty, though.

In case the non-farmers out there are wondering what Freezy is talking about: here is a pic of Cat1 Upper Link repair end ($11). BTW, Joe, ingenius! http://www.agrisupply.com/images/xl/32700.jpg

As you have seen, the dash/instrument panel are different over the years. The 1983 instrument panel was unique. Only year like it. As for the inconsistency in the CMS, it is most likely in need of a resolder and connector cleaning. As for the headlight, if there is not a bad filament (there are two, high and low beam), then check the plug connector at the bulb base, cleaning as needed. Inspect the 'modification' done by PO for good connection, hopefully it is nicely soldered and insulated. Finally, the 'relay' the PO spoke of is probably the Reserve Lighting unit. A failure of the RLU will give you the result you are experiencing with the headlight, but the RLU is supposedly bypassed? Perhaps, it isn't, or the bypass has failed. Bottom line, don't be too quick to swap out the instrument panel before doing further diagnosing.

"Unicorn!" THAT'S funny, I don't care what you believe in. If you ever hear from anyone and they provide you their VIN, let me know what it is, so I can enter the VIN into my (our) database.

Jeff, explained the process of removal. Here is a diagram of the front wheel assembly: BTW: This is a scan of the Service Manual. Note that there are two "meter clutch" depicted. The inboard (toward the center of the wheel) is the meter clutch. The other 'meter clutch' depicted is actually the 'gear unit'. Just another example of the many typos in the official Yamaha Service Manual.

It is unlikely that the 'gear unit' is bad. What is very likely is that the PO assembled the front wheel and speedometer drive (gear unit) and 'meter clutch' incorrectly. The clutch has two tabs that must align with notches in the gear unit and with notches in the wheel. It is not unheard of for the clutch to become mangled and inoperative when the aforementioned tabs and notches do not align.

If your bike is a 1983, then the cruise control is aftermarket or someone installed a later year Venture factory cruise or in actuality you have a 1984 Venture. Cruise Control was available from the factory on the 1984 Royale. What is your full VIN?

I believe those threads were referencing those in which the owner had installed a V-Max final drive. Sometimes shimming is required in that case. And to determine the need for a shim, one inserts the axle and determines if the final drive meets the swingarm properly or a shim may be required to make a good match. If you are using a MKII final drive, there prolly is no need for a shim. Just install the final drive and remount the wheel. The axle SHOULD slip right in.

And an '83 doesn't have cruise control.

Searching through the eBay listings reveals a W I D E range of prices for MKII saddlebags; from $25 to $155 for a single saddlebag. Some include lids (with chrome lid protector), some just the bottom. What color is your 1986?

They teach French up there behind the Cheddar Curtain?

I thought we were in the same time zone, but apparently Milwaukee is still living in the past.

I'm sorry, but did the manufacturer fail to take into account the simple act of coasting while in gear? I'm thinking that action is very common in everyday riding. Do you then suggest that a rider should disengage the clutch whenever slowing? Never to let the bike coast down in gear from any speed? You never downshift as you slow? Last time I had a final drive or transmission or engine apart, all the components were symmetrical, ie. capable of receiving and delivering force in either direction. Bearings are round. Gears are round. Gear teeth are similarly buttressed fore and aft. Again, I'm sorry, but your logic is invalid.

Pete, as a Mechanical Engineer, perhaps you can expound on the damage done to an engine when engine braking?

Originally and still today, those lens are made and marketed by Drag Specialties. Yours are what they call the Baron Mini Twin. Commonly available. Here is just one place to get them. Not the only place, though. Check on eBay, Amazon, Cycle Parts, etc. http://www.powerpartsplus.com/pages/Catalog/Product/47675

Consider the fact that the slides barely move (or are pertinent) at idle where most people synchronize their carbs. The diaphragms and springs are not in the picture at idle when synchronizing. The differences in spring rates CAN affect the mid to upper range of operation, but usually there is such a small difference as to be imperceptible. Some have discovered fatigued springs (too much sag) and have simply stretched the fatigued spring back to specification. You should note that the springs are of a very light rate and don't have much effect upon the slide. The vacuum is much stronger than the spring. The primary reason for the spring is to return the slide to a 'closed' position.