Prairiehammer

And .... ...it is a green connector body with a brown wire and a black wire.

Yep! I know!

BTW, Brett, since you are contacting twigg about the farkle shelf, talk to him about the LED lights he put on his FJR. 13,000 combined lumens.

Brett, Any driving light that you install will pull watts from your battery and charging system. For the past thirty years, Venture owners have installed aftermarket fog/driving lights onto the First Gen Ventures without issue. In that time period, your choices were quartz halogen lights with 35 watt or 50 watt power consumption (each lamp). You could choose from cheap WalMart plastic housings all the way to chrome and lead glass lenses Cibie 135. In fact Yamaha offered Cibie 135 driving lights in their VentureLine catalog. You can still take this route today, perhaps even less expensive than back in the day. More and more, there are new more 'energy efficient' offerings out there, from lower wattage halogens (less light output, though), to LED replacement 'bulbs' for your old H3 bulbs, to HID (moderately less wattage, but higher lumens than halogen, bulky, hot, expensive) to the current cutting edge LED (fairly compact, potentially lower wattage, potentially greater lumens, VERY expensive). Your biggest hurdle may be finding old driving light brackets meant for the First Gens. Keep an eye on eBay. Occasionally, VentureLine (Drag Specialties) driving light brackets show there. Sometimes with driving or fog lights included.

Gary, If it makes any difference, I am fairly certain the P603E-000137 engine number is from a very early 1999 RSV. I have subsequently found another 1999RSV with P603E-000667. That indicates that they started the RSV with 000101. Also, I found a 1997 RSTD and it's engine number starts with "4YE-". It appears as if "P603E-" prefix is unique to the RSV.

Go here: http://www.epgsoft.com/VisitedStatesMap/ Save the map that you create somewhere online (Photobucket, etc.) Go to your edit signature and add the map.

1UN-000220 is a 1986 California block. I don't have any info on the "P603E-000137". It does not jive with any Venture number I have. EDIT: P603E appears to be an early Royal Star block. Pinwall has a 1999 RSV block with P603E-001808. So extrapolating, I would guess the P603-000137 is either 36th RSV (assuming the 1999 RSV started with 000101) or an early Royal Star (1996). Definitely not a First Gen Venture block.

Another thought: look for some 'door edging', the plastic channel that folks slip onto the car door edge to prevent paint chipping. It may be too rigid to conform to the tight radii of the flap and the interior channel may be a loose fit on the thin flap.

Normal Seafoam dosage is 1 ounce per gallon, so with a full tank (~5gals) use about a quarter (4 ounces) of the 1 pint can. That ratio is good for routine fuel system maintenance. Use half a can for cleaning a slightly grungy system.

Perhaps split some small diameter vacuum hose and slip it on? Shouldn't be able to go any where after it is sandwiched between the 'flap' and the saddlebags.

+1 Find the smallest screen spline that the local home center has and push it into the groove. Make sure you remove the old.

I would. My preference for exhaust components is the copper based (high temperature).

As usual, Jeff has presented the most logical suggestions. Follow his advice to the letter. LOGIC is your most useful tool to possess when attempting to diagnose any problem, but ESPECIALLY when tracking down electrical issues. One other suggestion to add: disconnect the fan (ground and Positive) and the 'manual switch' completely from the bike's electrical system, for now. It may be that the fan is locked up and combined with the manual switch that may have failed ON, the fan is drawing juice even if it is not rotating.

Al, RE: the saddlebags and the trunk; if I understand you correctly, you disassembled the ABS parts from the aluminum rim that runs around the opening of the trunk and bags? I have never removed those pieces before, but it appears there are several TINY screws holding the aluminum to the clamshells. I suppose there may have been some sort of sealant in the bottom of the aluminum channel to prevent water intrusion, but that would be only a guess. At any rate, it appears the aluminum is secured to the ABS primarily with those little Phillips/JIS screws. Perhaps a SMALL bead of sealant too, acting both as a water barrier and an adhesive. Was there any evidence of such a sealant or adhesive when you disassembled the trunk and saddlebags? If you elect to apply some sealant, make sure that the sealant is compatible with the ABS plastic. RE: the plastic trim on the false tank cover/top cover; are you speaking of the black channel that is pushed onto the lower edge of the tank cover where it meets the fairing? If so, on my '83, that black trim is just pushed on. No adhesive. If your trim channel (Yamaha calls it a MOLE, sidecover 1&2) is loose and won't snap on securely, try pinching the channel a little bit so it grasps the edge of the tank cover more securely. Failing that, a SMALL bead of appropriate adhesive should work. When selecting an adhesive, look for an adhesive that does NOT have acetone, methyl chloride, toluene, or some other solvent that may damage the ABS. For some applications, I've had success with a good quality (3M products) automotive trim double faced foam backed tape. Good luck.

The filter is identical, same part number. http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/yamaha/Y-4X7-2149Y-00-00.html And yes, the outlet of the airbox drain on the '83 is just in front of the engine, left of the oil filter.

I've crossed back and forth several times and have never been asked for proof of ownership. However, I HAVE been asked to show proof of insurance valid IN Canada. Before any trip into Canada, I've obtained a 'Canadian insurance card' from my insurance company. But all that is moot if you don't have a passport or passport card. As Brian says; Canada may let you in and out, but the US won't let you back in without a passport. And there is probably not enough time for you to get a passport before Pork in the Pines. BTW, congratulations on finally finding your 'birth' bike.

Yes, of course, you are correct, Neil. I had a mental lapse, and was mixing up the check valve in the vacuum line from number two carb to the boost sensor with the filter in the '83-'84 airbox drain line. Rather curious that the filter that is on the '83 drain line is identical to the filter on the RSV. The oil drain hose does not make a mess on the RSV? I think the oily discharge was the reason the airbox drain was changed on the First Gen, starting with 1985. Then Yamaha reverted to the same drain and filter for the 1999?

:no-no-no: http://www.laramyk.com/resources/education/dispensing/the-dangers-of-night-driving-glasses/ The Dangers of Night Driving Glasses It is an all too common misconception that yellow tinted or yellow polarized night driving glasses are beneficial for night time driving. The thought is, the yellow or amber color reduces glare and improves contrast. However, in reality, when driving at night or dusk in already limited lighting conditions, ANY tint further reduces the amount of light transmitted to the eye, and consequently, further impairs vision. The problem is compounded as the yellow tint gives the wearer the impression they are seeing better, when in fact the reverse is actually true. “Yellow ‘Night Driving’ lenses have been shown to provide no benefit in seeing ability at night. They are even hazardous, because they give the driver a feeling of seeing better, which no one has yet been able to explain. Studies have shown that they actually impair visual performance and retard glare recovery. Many promoters have made unfounded claims for the ability of amber to improve night vision. They have employed mass solicitation, usually by mail. The Federal Trade Commission has correctly ruled that such practices are illegal since the lenses do not perform as claimed.” – Forensic Aspects of Vision and Highway Safety”, Merrill J. Allen, O.D., Ph.D., Et al. While yellow lenses can be effective for foggy or hazy daylight conditions, they are not effective against headlight glare and should not be worn at dusk or night. If glare from headlights is a problem, the first step should be a thorough eye examination, as this could be an early indication of cataracts or other medical conditions. “So-called night driving glasses are generally amber tinted eyewear meant to reduce the glare of oncoming headlights. While they may make the driver feel more comfortable, they also reduce the wearers visibility of the darker portions of the roadway.” – Sunglass Association of America The best option for night time driving is a pair of spectacles with clear lenses and an AR coating. The AR coating is beneficial in two ways. First, it minimizes internal reflections within the lenses, reducing halo problems, and second, it increases the transmittance of light through the lens to the eye. However, it is important to note, if a patient does not normally wear spectacles, AR coated lenses, or any other type of night driving glasses will not improve night vision, as AR coatings only minimize aberrations that are inherent in ophthalmic lenses and night driving glasses will simply serve to introduce those abberations to the wearer’s vision. Tips for optimal night time driving vision: - Make sure eyes are examined regularly - Always wear an up-to-date prescription - Lenses worn should be clear with an AR coating - Ensure lenses are clean - Ensure windshield is clean - Ensure headlights are clean and properly aligned Responsible dispensers of ophthalmic lenses should discourage the use of tinted, polarized, or photochromic lenses in night time or dusk driving conditions and not participate in solicitation or marketing of so-called night driving glasses by irresponsible manufacturers.

On an unmolested First Gen, there are TWO hoses connected to the airbox; a larger hose that is connected to the 'twinky' at the bottom and to the rear of the airbox at the top and a smaller hose that connects to a small nipple at left front corner of the airbox and to a T-fitting in the large hose just above the twinky. The large hose is the crankcase ventilation (think PCV, Positive Crankcase Ventilation on your car). The smaller hose is the drain back hose for accumulated oil in the airbox. On the early Ventures, this small hose did not connect to the larger hose and there was no T in the larger hose. On those early Ventures the airbox drain was to the ground through a check valve. Yamaha issued a TSB to eliminate the airbox draining to the ground and route the airbox accumulated oil to a new T in the crankcase ventilation hose.

How many miles on the Venture? I mean, the OEM went how long? I would think the EBC will last even longer.

I'd replace with the semi-floating. Like MasterGuns says, the OEM is an aluminum spider with semi-floating rotor. Almost identical with the EBC one. Just curious: why do you have to replace your rear rotor?

Rod, make sure it is a relay problem and not just a flaky switch. If it is a bad fan relay, any common Bosch type relay should suffice. I presume you removed the wire lead from the thermoswitch and are using your added switch exclusively? Manual operation of the fan ?

:rotf::rotf::rotf::rotf::rotf::rotf::rotf:

Here is the link to the radio in question. You are right...cheap! It only has 3 watts output. Prolly wouldn't drive most speakers without a lot of distortion. http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NjIwWDYyMA==/z/RXwAAOxycmBS0Pex/$_12.JPG Here is the apparently same radio without the speakers. http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTAyNFgxMjgw/z/6kIAAOSwQItT0f8p/$_57.JPG I say.

Well, I looked because I thought someone may have had a question about a First Gen radio available on eBay. A very vague title in the Watering Hole is going to entice a lot of lookers. Then, after reading your description, I still don't know what you are talking about, but since you have an RSTD, and I don't know anything about the Royal Star, I just moved on. Perhaps that is what 74 other lookers did? Provide a link to the 'ebay radio' and you may get some answers. Many don't know what you are looking for.