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CrazyHorse

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Everything posted by CrazyHorse

  1. CrazyHorse
    Yes getting the shaft back in is starting to be a problem. I also took the collecter to a muffler shop to have new ends put on one was falling apart should be done today.
  2. CrazyHorse
    Well Giga I got the last one in had to remove the right lower frame bar pushed the motor up about 3/4 of inch till the shaft pulled out a little and then twisted the motor while my neighbor pulled out the old one and inserted the new mount now just have to get the motor back to the original position. Not a real fun job I gotta say.
  3. CrazyHorse
    Excellent work. I shorted my master twice when I was taking the switch off.
  4. CrazyHorse
    Ok I m diving in.
  5. CrazyHorse
    Did you unbolt the drive shaft from the rear end? I was able to do the first 5 mounts fairly easy but the left rear one is fairly hard I can see why people said the h*ll with it and were able to slide the motor foward?
  6. CrazyHorse
    I forgot to mention disconnect the battery I burned the main fuse twice jiggling that thing off dont ask how I know.
  7. CrazyHorse
    Yes Thanks
  8. CrazyHorse
    And if your taking the dash out you might as well grease the speedo cable and inside the speedometer gears. GeorgeS has a nice pictorial in the Tech section I think.
  9. CrazyHorse
    Got the top one s in not much trouble the middle ones are a little trickier and the back left one looks difficult did you tilt the motor foward on the top mount bolts how exactly did you get the rear ones on?
  10. CrazyHorse
    I was just about to type you I noticed you did solid mounts. Its kinda a pain but not horrible. I was thinking of machining the guide tube down to fit. Thanks for the answer. Its seems the hard part for me is getting the two inner bolts of the exhaust on the back cylinders to come free any hints? No room to manuver.
  11. CrazyHorse
    I 'd like to see what they look like.
  12. CrazyHorse
    On the upper front engine mount there is a guide tube between mounts with the solid mounts does this guide tube still fit in between with the solid mounts it doesnt seem like it?
  13. CrazyHorse
    Its not easy I was able to do it with a stubby philips stuck up behind the switch (there are 2 screws) but its a massive pain. Its much easier though takes a long time I took the side fairing s off and the windshield and dash access much easier then.
  14. CrazyHorse
    Well I looked at it this way. With the boots up the superbrace or the regular brace do not touch the sides of the forks anyway both slide in easy and do not contact the sides of the forks. ( If it locked in tight to the forks with the boots up by all means I would have trimmed the boots but it wasnt that way.) So I am not convinced the real strength comes from touching the side of the brace to the fork. I believe it comes from the thickness of the brace and with proper length bolts making the strength. From my pictures you can see the length of the provided bolt and the one I had to buy ( I also have the chrome caps that came in the package.) so if the superbrace does not touch the forks anyway with boots up I figured I'd machine off a slight amount on each side I dont have to damage the boots and I get a tight fit of the superbrace up to the forks with the boots in between. I don't know why the provided bolts were not long enough but I sure wasnt going to ride around with so little thread engagment. The only way I knew there was such little engagement was because the last one I torqued in stripped and then I checked it more closely and found how little thread engagement there was. I was just trying to let people know if they are driving around with minimal thread engagement maybe they should check theirs. Had all the bolts just torqued in I would have never realized the bolt lengths were inadequete. Rande also found his bolts short. I hope this explains it better.
  15. CrazyHorse
    I'm thinking the stabilty comes from having a thicker brace being tied in with the bolts making it one unit since the original brace does not touch the fork sides (at least on my bike) I 'm thinking the real difference is in thickness of the brace itself is the true stablizing effect not the side touching.
  16. CrazyHorse
    "I put the superbrace on a month ago and had the same problem. Tired to tourgue to 14 lb and it stripped one of the threads. The other three were already tourqued so I just used one longer bolt and had no problem. Mine is an 84 so I think they are sending bolts that are too short." __________________ Rande I looked at trimming the boots but, when I pulled the boots up and put the brace in in was not snugged up to the forks. I probably would have done this is they fit tight up against the forks but they did not. Since the original brace was not snug and the superbrace were not snug (the superbrace was slighty bigger) I decided to trim the superbrace down so it did fit snug against the rubber of the boots. Now Randes answer. Rande thats how I found out the bolts were too short the very last bolt I torqued in stripped. Then I started looking at the bolts coming out the the superbrace and I noticed there was virtually no thread engagement not enough to safely hold the brace on. I looked at the original brace and bolts and found them to have around a 1/2" engagement compared to the superbrace approximately 1/4" or less. So I went to the local hardware store and found some chrome M8x1.25x30mm bolts and put those in ( I did have to grind a little off the ends but now I have max thread engagement. If I were you Rande I would change all the bolts for longer ones.
  17. CrazyHorse
    They help protect the forks from rocks and bugs and such.
  18. CrazyHorse
    Dont really know when they started it. I have a digital ignition also which I belive began in 1990.
  19. CrazyHorse
    Before I machined the brace I looked at it closely and found with the boots up and unlocked it fit in there easy and it did not touch the fork tube on either side. It appeared to me that the strength came from the thicker brace (less flex). I machined the brace so I do have a tight fit against the boots. I ended up getting M8x1.25x30mm chrome bolts to get the maximum thread engagement. I did have to slighty grind down the ends of the new bolts so as not to scrape on the fender. But I cant believe Superbrace would send you a product with such little thread engagement. Below a picture with the original thread that came with the brace and my new thread.
  20. CrazyHorse
    First the superbrace would not fit on a 1990 model because the rubber fork boots I believe mount different than earlier models. I ended up machinning the brace to make it fit. Second if you look at the picture there is barely any thread engagement compared with the original brace. I cant believe people are riding around with such small thread engagement it cant be good. Im going to the store to get a longer set for safeties sake. Anybody else check how much the threads actually engage the forks?
  21. CrazyHorse
    Yes the fork boots are brand new Yamaha the old fork brace slips right in but when I match up the 2 braces the superbrace is slight bigger on each side. I think Yamaha changed how the fork boots mounted between years i was wondering if anyone with a 1990 and above had the same problem? I f I pull the boots up from their locked position it fits right in. See pictures.
  22. CrazyHorse
    I just got my superbrace today but it wont fit. Its the Venture model 1100 but I have a 1990 bike with brand new boots. It seems the superbrace wont go in there with the boots. Any hints?
  23. CrazyHorse
    Different gearing but should work I think same motor.
  24. CrazyHorse
    Wow what kind of mpg do you get?
  25. CrazyHorse
    You can do this if you like to spend money. http://wildbros.com/EFI.html Or if your exceptionally talented you can do this. http://www.megasquirt.info/
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