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Everything posted by circa1968

  1. Now that I'm deep into my carburetor cleaning and overhauling (waiting for new needle valves at the moment), my curious mind has taken over and I've been doing a bit of research about ethanol, why we are required to use it, what it does and why its bad. I'm sure most of you are already years ahead of me on this, but my research led me to ask "Why in the heck isn't someone creating an alternative to this ethanol?" Well, as it turns out, they are: bio-isobutanol! Bio-isobutanol has higher energy content than ethanol, is not corrosive, is not hygroscopic (so does not phase separate) and
  2. Found it! You were close: "Evaporative Emission Control (California Models)...captures fumes that are created in the fuel tank and stores them in a charcoal canister. While the motorcycle is parked or when it is operated at low engine speeds, the fuel vapors remain in the charcoal canister. When the motorcycle is ridden at high speed, the vapors pass through a hose to the carburetor and are burned..." I call it a PITA!
  3. Well, since you've pushed me to become divorced from my comfort zone and we now live in separate states (thank you!), I will be doing all those things you mention. The float bowl o-rings are pretty gunked up and new ones will not arrive until Friday, so I now have time to fiddle and see how much more trouble I can get myself into. Question: I've been studying the service manual, and I have a clymer manual as well now, and have been able to identify and understand pretty much everything so far. But, in the attached picture there is a rubber hose connected to two diagonal float bowls via
  4. That was timely! I just got everything loosened & ready to pull, but no go. Figured I missed a step in the process and came to the computer to review. Yeah, that throttle cable....
  5. Apparently I have at least two plugged jets. Turning out the pilot screws on #1 & #3 had no effect. When turned nearly all the way in, it would bog down the engine, but backing out from that point all the way to 4 turns made no difference on either of them. I never even got to #2 & 4. Bottom line, I'm now armed and dangerous with more information than I probably should be allowed to have. I'm going to pull the carbs & open them up to clean the pilot jets!!!! Wish me luck!
  6. @Patch Got it. They were not far off to begin with so it was fairly quick and easy to dial them in. That makes sense, the rears seated @ 1.5 turns.
  7. @ Patch Yep, got it figured out! I wasn't able to acheive more than a 2-3mm opening of the throttle plate though w/ the idle screw turned all the way in. I do a lot of work on bicycles (much simpler machines!) and happened to have some steel braided brake cable that's ~1.5mm. I used that for the feeler gauge and got them all set accordingly. To fine tune it even more, I turned the idle screw down a bit and then used a 1mm shifter cable for a gauge. That's a very cool process! Thank you! Ready for next step!!
  8. Thanks. That's what I thought you were referring to, but I saw no effect on the throttle plate, but now as I think about it, guessing I start w/ the fat knob & go from there? I'll go fiddle around and see what else I can learn. BTW, while poking around and doing more reading, etc found the brass caps for the pilot screws & removed them. With the throttle plates fully open, I could see the needle tip sticking through into the carb body. Each one protruded a different amount. wth? The two front ones were close to each other and the two back ones were close to each other, but I
  9. @Patch can you explain this to me further: “Set the # screw so that the throttle plate is just touching the shank of the bit,” I thought you meant the sync screws but that is not it. Which screw adjusts the throttle plate?
  10. @Patch Heading to the garage now to work on the bench sync, have a couple hours free for the rest of afternoon. Thanks for the read on the plugs. I will focus on the bench sync 1st thing today and pull the plugs later. @cowpuc I was just looking for a set for my own educational purposes to take apart, put back together again and try to learn more about what it does and how it does it. I may get to the point of pulling and doing the swap, but not quite there yet. I do recall seeing that post in some of my travels.
  11. Thank you Puc! I'm looking forward to digging into the carbs more and learning how they work. I looked on ebay for a used set, just to play around with and explore how they work. Oh my, that's an expensive toy, $300+ for a set of used carbs!
  12. Thank you for that Patch. I mostly followed you on that explanation. Not to toot my own horn, but back in my day I was very good and well known for my troubleshooting skills of computer/electronic systems (I worked in both Mfg & Development). I like challenges and, when faced with a new one, I always try to first obtain some basic knowledge of how the thing is supposed to work before I can figure out why the thing does not currently work. Hence my frustration here and grasping at straws (definitely not my normal approach). I think I was hoping to get lucky with a quick and simple act
  13. Hi Puc, Up until this last ride, and maybe one other time, the two back pipes did not read the same. I am able to take the exact same reading (directly on the pip, same angle, etc) on both of them. #1 is always ~400+ and #3 was reading the same (~200) as I got on the #1 & #2 flanges. I guess I made a bad assumption there on those readings (pipe vs. flange). Part of my learning/education process. I guess I see now the difference in thermal mass, but not sure why I was seeing such a difference, directly on the #1 & #3 pipes before. And for what its worth, #1 gets to that
  14. Thank you Patch. I understood your procedure perfectly and will follow it. Unfortunately, I did not track the plugs when I removed them, but have a few miles on the new plugs, so will pull them & get pics to see if that is of any use. I will also take pics of the old plugs, for what that's worth. I'm pretty mechanically inclined and have an engineering degree and a quick study of most things that come along. I like challenges, just have zero experience working on engines or carbs and don't want to screw anything up. But that said, I've learned a lot already and each new step leav
  15. Sorry, couldn't resist... I'm one of the newest members here and have quickly grown to appreciate this site and group. Love my Venture and couldn't wait to make a little bike art with her to share with y'all. Enjoy!
  16. Ragtop, not sure if you are getting my PM replies but I sent you photos of what I have to confirm its correct and you can have it for the shipping cost. I don't plan to use it and if it helps you out I'm happy to send it your way!
  17. Thank you for this video and info on the NAPA filter. I spent the better part of an hour repositioning the myriad hoses in that area from the rats nest they were (drove me crazy every time I looked at that) to make them more cleanly routed, freeing up enough space to put the filter in the hose area. See attached photos. A couple of key things to make this work: Remove the u-shaped hard rubber tube on the hose from the filter to the pump, this makes it easier to reroute it. Rotate that little black can, held on by the white p-clamp w/ the PIA screw/cap nut, ~45 degrees toward
  18. I did not adjust the mixture screws. Are those the ones behind the plug that has to be drilled out? I will wait to see if a clean filter and clean tank with fresh gas helps before jumping into that.
  19. Quick update. I think (hope) good news on the running hot issue! I took it out for a short run today and it subjectively felt much better, so when I pulled back in, took a few quick measurements while it was still running. The radiator was measuring 178F top & bottom. I went back through some notes and found I had measured 220F a few weeks ago! For what its worth, it was in the 90's first reading and in the 60's today. Here's what I did yesterday: 1) Drained coolant. 2) Removed fins & emptied the cyclinder cooling jackets. 3) Refilled w/ distilled water & bled
  20. I just took the CB unit off my bike. PM me and we can work out the details to get mine to you.
  21. So, after syncing the carbs, both back exhaust (#1 & 3) are now running 200 deg hotter than the front. wth? Normal? I'm going to buy a small hand vacuum pump to test the gauges and verify they are all consistent. Idle is bouncing around within a 100-150 rpm range. Normal? Also, the bike still runs hot, its like riding a weber bbq grill. I checked the tank temp, right where my legs touch and it was 105 degrees - with a nearly full tank of gas. I've been thinking of ways to check the whole system to verify coolant is working its way all the way through. I suspect either blockag
  22. My sync gauges showed up at the end of the day today, a day late. So much for Amazon Prime. I will be doing my very first carb sync tomorrow. Sorry to hear you are having same issue, but I feel a bit better now knowing this may be a more common, & easily solvable issue, than I thought. Still hoping this is the root cause of my heat issue (my heat issue being me boiling in short order).
  23. I wondered about that too. I have been checking top & bottom of radiator, I don't have the #'s off the top of my head, but did not seem out of the ordinary. In the range of 200 deg, IIRC. I just put in iridium plugs and will get a pic of the old plugs.
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