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Everything posted by circa1968

  1. I'd offer to come help, but we're on opposite coasts and I just saw in you're profile you're a caterpillar mechanic so you'd probably want to bop me on the head with a wrench in no time! You should be fine. Very much worth the time/effort.
  2. Agree. I can also now walk my bike around in the garage like it weighs 100 lbs less. With some practice, I was getting pretty good at low speed handling before lowering. Some good videos out there on how to do that.
  3. It's a fairly big job, to be sure. I removed the tank to protect it. You will have to remove windshield, split the front fairing, pull the inner fairing away, etc. Search the site, there are some instructions on how to do it.
  4. Lowering the front end by raising forks in triple tree will also help. I just recently did mine, lowered by 1/2", others have done more but I'm happy w/ the results and can sit flat footed at a stop light now. I would not have believed that lowering by 1/2" would make such a difference on the top heavy feel, but it does. I didn't expect that, was mainly going for being flat footed at stop.
  5. I had a similar issue with a low-mileage 07 RSV that sat for a long time. In the end, the carbs were all gunked up, causing a lean running condition, which made it run hot. I believe there was also an issue with one of the diaphrams. A carb rebuild solved my problem.
  6. Thanks guys! I'm starting to lean towards the progressives.
  7. So y'all got me doing more research on progressive vs linear rate springs and now I'm just more confused than ever. But, my layman's take on it is that linear springs are best for racing so that you have a consistent feel through the fork compression, making it more predictable. I see that being of value in running this beast through twisties. On the other hand, progressive will give a more comfortable ride soaking up smaller bumps on the road and give more resistance to bottoming on a hard hit. Why did you chose progressive springs over linear? Do you still get front end dive on har
  8. I like that override switch idea! Seems like it takes forever for the fan to come on. On 2nd gen bikes, there are two thermo switches. The 1st switch is in the radiator, to turn on the fan. The one you mentioned in the thermostat housing completes a ground path to turn on the indicator light and also goes to the starting circuit cutoff relay. I'm assuming they did it this way for the sake of having two different temperature thresholds, one to turn on the fan and one for when shit hits the fan. https://www.venturerider.org/wiring/99-09 Yamaha Royal Star Venture Wiring Diagram Rev
  9. I just ordered the superbright LED and will check for radio station interference but, like MonsterBiker, I also mostly use the bluetooth-aux connection I installed to stream from my phone.
  10. I'm pretty sure you'll need to pull the radiator to get to the fan and possibly the thermo switch. Before going through all that, 1st step is check the fan motor fuse (Located behind left side cover, fuse #2). Next, remove the lower cowlings and trace the fan wire to the connector on the lower left (shifter) side of the bike. You are looking for a two-wire connector (Blue & Black). I used my battery tender and crudely rigged a couple pieces of wire to feed 12v to the fan to make sure it will run when given power (blue = +, black = -) If both of those are good, there's also a noise
  11. 1-3. The state could try an emergency appeal to SCOTUS or go to the 9th circuit, where it would go before a 3-judge panel 1st and then possibly appealed to the en banc 11-judge panel before going to SCOTUS. The latter route could take years to reach a SCOTUS appeal hearing
  12. hmm, had to delete my original rant as it likely violated forum rules, so I'll just summarize in a more PC way: Good!
  13. Oh, also check your brake light itself to make sure it is working properly, the fault could also be on the other side of that relay. The relay contact is fed power via the brown wire (straight from the fuse) and once the relay is energized, or closed, the yellow wire receives power and sends it to the brake light. A ground fault anywhere along those two paths seems like it would cause your symptoms.
  14. In looking at the wiring schematic, the following are on the load side of your turn signal fuse: Horns, flasher relay, hazard relay, most of your dash indicators and the Brake Light Relay. The neutral switch is on the carb heater fuse, so this could be a red herring. Based on your symptoms, I suspect the Brake light relay likely has a fault in it causing at least a partial short to ground when applying the brake (while in traffic). If the fuse blows when in traffic or neutral, you are also likely braking. A ground fault in the relay when braking would effectively rob voltage from the
  15. This is going to be the next upgrade to my Venture as the front really dives when braking hard. I've been reading through various postings & trying to get my head all the way around the project to make sure I'm comfortable doing this on my own. I'm feeling confident (dangerous) enough at this point, but two things I can't quite get a good understanding of and wondering if anyone could shed some light: 1) How much oil to put in after draining out the old oil? Do I follow spec of 553cc or am I supposed to measure it from the top? 2) Preload spacers. I've read that Sonic will
  16. Yes. There are two audio connections under the seat. One goes to the CB & the other goes to rear speakers & headset. Should be obvious what each connection is, just trace the wire back from the connectors.
  17. I used 1 1/8" hole saw, it was a perfect fit, for drilling out the rear baffle plate. Definitely gives it more rumble. Will leave them on for a while and see how I like it. Thanks for the suggestion
  18. Just a SWAG here, but when was the last time you had the tank off and pulled/cleaned the airboxes? At 98k miles, perhaps the oil droplets pulled up via PCV have built up over time and were trapped in the bottom of the box due to a plugged drain line and something just caused the line to clear enough for the accumulated oil to drain out. Here's what I would do, and perhaps its wishful thinking for a simple fix/solution but that's usually where I start and sometimes get lucky enough to end there: Pull the tank & airbox, clean all the oil out of the airbox and blow out the drain l
  19. I'm definitely of the non-matching variety! We have a name for the variety you're talking about, but i can't repeat it in polite company.😀 @Flyinfool why on earth wouldn't the city or the race sponsors build a walkway over the road for the residents? Surely someone must get an earful about that every year.
  20. Not offended, but please don't judge all riders by the actions of a few. You are correct that under normal circumstances, cyclists should not be riding 3-4 abreast. Its common sense, common courtesy and unsafe. I ride a road bike on 2-lane blacktops with my buddies and we ride single file, as close to the edge as possible. The single most terrifying thing is someone in a car hellbent on being a jerk coming up from behind at 60+ MPH. Cycling out in the country on two lane roads is a very healthy and enjoyable activity. I can't speak to shutting down roads for races, as I'm not a
  21. Yep, all about trade offs. Higher pressure will allow you to go faster/further with the same pedaling effort (or battery power). The downsides are easier flats and a harsher ride, which may cause more overall fatigue for the rider. I always lean towards lowest psi possible on my bicycles for the fatigue issue. If not running out of battery (electric or human) on your rides and now worried about breaking any land speed records, you may have fewer flats. There are some hard-core cyclist, physics types (geeks) out there doing studies on contact patch, size, shape, orientation etc all ev
  22. Nothing like an untimely flat to ruin a great ride. On my skinny tire road bike, I picked up a paper staple once that flatted me. It doesn't take much. Are those tires/wheels by any chance tubeless compatible? With those large tires, a tubeless setup will actually reduce your likely hood of a flat - ironically. I run a tubeless setup on my mtn bike and love it. Also, just curious what pressure are you running those tires at. Tire pressure on a bicycle is different that what we know in cars/motorcycles. I run ~20psi on my mtn bike as it makes the tire more compliant and they
  23. Thanks. Yeah, I suppose worth a shot as long as I'm at it. What is the best technique for drilling out the baffles?
  24. Today I put on a set of new take-off Harley touring exhaust pipes (from 2003) I found on craigslist for $50. Meh....A little throatier sound, but not convinced for me. Figured worth a try for $50 and I will get out for a longer ride with them to see, but if anyone is looking for a nice set, it won't be hard to talk me out of them.
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