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circa1968

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Everything posted by circa1968

  1. I wear a full-face helmet with the visor in the up position, unless its raining, and I just crank it up to where it sounds good to me. At freeway speeds, that's usually ~17-19 with the auto speed adjust set to '5' This is an interesting option too: https://domiomotorsports.com/motorsports/ You will obviously need to be set up for BT streaming though.
  2. Thanks for that @BlueSky! I think I can handle that procedure, these bikes seem pretty easy to work on. Will have to do some research on where to find shims, if needed though, before I dig into it.
  3. I picked this up back in August, literally @ 9PM the night before leaving on a month-long road trip, because why not... Was looking for something smaller, a project (but not too complicated) and on a reasonable budget as a complement to my Venture for easy daily riding and this sweet girl came along. She has only 7700 miles on her and lot's of garage sit time (hadn't run in over 10 years) - which of course meant gunked up carbs, dried out rubber bits and rusty tank. Thanks to all you awesome folks here and the ton I've learned from you over the last year I, perhaps foolishly, had all the confidence to take this one on. After returning from my trip, I pulled the plugs and soaked the cylinders in Seafoam deep creep for 48 hours, changed the oil, new battery and lit her up with some starter fluid. She's alive! Next step, pulled the carbs. They weren't in as bad of shape as I expected, but bad enough. Ordered a K&L rebuild kit, along with new boots on both sides. The petcock is vacuum operated and all the bits inside were dried out as well, so those have been replaced with new. I did the drywall screws in the tank thing and let the rust rain out, then did a degrease, followed by the POR acid treatment, then POR-15 coating. Carbs are clean with new float valves, pilot screws and rubber bits. She runs, she purrs like a kitten! Actually, the carbs need a little fine tuning on the pilot screws and sync, but other than that, I was able to ride it around the neighborhood this evening. OMG, what a hoot! This thing has some punch. Oh, while I was waiting for all the bits & pieces to arrive, I painted the engine black. The engine was painted gold from the factory but it was badly faded and splotchy and I just had to knock a little bit of that '80's look off of it. Overall, the bike is very clean but the paint is not as good as it looks in this photo, it is a bit worn and beat, but still acceptable. I'm debating whether to keep it looking as it sits now or make it a longer term project to move it towards something more sporty looking. In the mean time, I will be overhauling the brakes and other various little things to make her truly road ready, but dang, this is fun!
  4. Yeah, becoming more than obvious they don't want to even make 50 of them as they will not respond to my emails asking for a price quote.
  5. So, before my spring trip, I did a “practice” replacement to see what was needed. Going from memory: 5mm Allen to remove the side covers Phillips to remove the center cover 12mm socket to remove the pump Plier/needle nose to loosen the hose clamps. I will take a look @ the exploded view deg later, to make sure I’m not forgetting anything, but it is not complicated at all. The worst part was dealing with the various wiring clamps/ties under the side cover. That and that darn screw for the center cover which is always hard for me to get back into place.
  6. Glad you had a great trip and made it home safely. I was going over Rabbit Ear Pass on Sept 8th, having just come across hiway 14 from Fort Collins! Absolutely beautiful area. I carried a spare fuel pump with me on my trip (5,500 miles over a month), along with the couple of tools necessary to change it out, if need be. A lot of things could go wrong, but I figured if the fuel pump went out, its one problem I could easily fix anywhere, myself and it doesn't take up much storage space. If the points go out, I'll swap in the spare, replace the points when I get home and then still have a spare to carry with me. My spare is a very clean, used pump purchased off of ebay for $30. The same pump was used on other Yamaha Star models, so not hard to find used on ebay. Hope you are back up and running soon!
  7. What he said! But I'm pretty sure the lights, etc would still work if the kickstand was down, while in gear. Same as if the kill switch was open. It just wouldn't turnover.
  8. They did not. I asked them to quote chrome & powder coated black, but never heard back. I've been on the road since then, so I will follow up to see if they will provide a quote.
  9. See the left side of the diagram for the color code/chart, but yes, Brown/Blue. How certain are you that the battery is good? I could be off base on this one but possible that it has enough juice for the stereo, but not for the rest of the stuff. The odometer not working is odd as that is fused before the main switch. That's what has me wondering about the battery.
  10. That was my first thought too, but I confirmed on my bike that all the other stuff, lights, etc would still work. But still worth checking.
  11. Couple of questions: 1) Does the odometer work when you turn the ignition to on? 2) Do the blinkers and/or horn work? Here's a link to the electrical diagram: https://www.venturerider.org/wiring/99-09 Yamaha Royal Star Venture Wiring Diagram Rev B.pdf Lot's of possibilities, but coming off the ignition switch, the stereo and aux power are on their own circuit, so sorta good news there in that hopefully not a bad main switch. The odometer is fused directly off the main fuse and should be working. The blinkers and horn, based on your symptoms are most likely not working. You may have a bad main switch or a problem with the wiring coming off of it, either @ a connector or broken wire itself.
  12. Thanks. It was a great trip! For my return route, I stayed off of interstates & rode 2-lane hiways for all but the last part to my house. What a big beautiful country we live in! So many awesome small towns and wonderful people you meet there. One of the highlights was the motorcycle museum in St. Francis, KS, a small town in the northwest corner of KS. The quality and quantity of bikes in this collection blew my mind! If you've never been and are within a reasonable ride to get there, its worth the effort! https://stfrancismotorcyclemuseum.org/
  13. Yesterday was the end of my month-long, 5.5k mile test ride..... With some obvious subjectivity, the bike did not have the wind-induced death wobble issues as I previously experienced, or at least not nearly as bad. However, in certain wind conditions, the bike was still tossed around quite a bit. The worst case scenarios were with a strong cross-wind and trucks. The turbulence coming off a truck with little or no ambient wind was minimal and the bike was stable. But, oh boy, hit a strong cross-wind and the truck turbulence threw me around like a rag doll, just like my previous experience, but without any significant front end wobble added to it after tightening up the head bearing a bit. I do have the wide F4 windshield, which is 4" wider, on each side, than stock, so 8" overall. At this point, I'm thinking that is definitely a factor. I will be looking for a stock windshield to see if that makes a difference. I rode a pure stock '99 RSV from '99-'02, including one such trip as I just completed, and do not remember having these wind issues. Of course, age-related memory issues could be part of that too.
  14. Just as a quick follow-up on this, I decided not to pursue making these brackets out of an abundance of caution. If you look underneath the RSV, there is an angled bracket welded to the frame. This bracket is only there for mounting a fuel vapor canister that is installed on California bikes and not for carrying any sort of load. When raising or lowering the bike on the center stand, this bracket would likely carry the weight of the bike. Once up on the stand, the rest of the frame is carrying the load. My concern would be that repeated stresses on that bracket and its minimal weld joints could cause it to fail at some point, partially dropping the stand. I looked into making the adapter bracket as all one piece and finding alternate mounting points, but the engineering and fabrication costs are hard to justify. Alternately, I did contact Rivco and they said they would do a production run with an order for 50 units. If there are at least 50 of us who want one of those, I'm happy to coordinate that effort instead.
  15. That's a great idea and I didn't even think to look in that area since I was tapping into the factory harness in the battery area already, it just seemed to make sense at the time to fit it all in there. The module was small enough to easily fit and it was just a matter of dressing up the wire routing to not look like a bowl of spaghetti.
  16. Check with member Eusa1, he might have one for sale. Also, a more expensive route, but there are a couple on Ebay - but you have to buy the whole trunk assembly. If you go the Ebay route, maybe we can find a member who can help either get the wing 3D scanned & 3D printed copies made, or perhaps a mold pulled off the part to cast new wings from. IMHO, the wing really complements the looks and the extra LED lighting is a great safety feature. In any case, if you manage to track down a wing and I can be of any assistance in the modifications, don't hesitate to reach out to me.
  17. Even after two days of 100+ degree riding through NV & UT, I still don’t even want to contemplate the answer to that question. But…if she is blond & in her mid twenties, that would be almost as much fun as my Venture. 😂
  18. Hmm, well now I’m thinking my memory fails me. Once I saw your pic, maybe mine included those too, but I did not use them if they did. I am still using the stock 90 degree valve on the rear & had one installed on the front also. They work great.
  19. I put them on my 2nd gen RSV, using the stock rear valve stem, but I had them change the front to a right angle stem for convenience. There were no valves that came with the kit, just the cap and a back locking nut.
  20. This is probably boring and mundane for most of the guys here, but I found it fascinating and well done. Of course having it done as a cartoon was necessary for my pea-brained self.
  21. Ok, great! I've got some inquiries out to find a shop to make the brackets.
  22. There are a ton of 1st gen center stands on ebay and pretty inexpensive. Since Freebird published his design for the adapter bracket, if there are others interested in getting some made, I would be happy to lead the charge to get a bunch of them fabricated as I would like to add one to my 2nd gen also.
  23. If you're still looking for one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/133798047178?fits=Model%3ARoyal+Star|Make%3AYamaha&epid=1423751850&hash=item1f26fc2dca%3Ag%3AnQoAAOSwkvpg1LEi&LH_ItemCondition=4
  24. My last sentence was incorrect, its in parallel to the brake switches, not inline (wasn't fully caffeinated when I looked @ the spaghetti diagram). Looks like you have two options. Easy option is to isolate that entire circuit from the switch, which would then allow all functions (i.e. brake lights, blinkers, etc) on the circuit to work without the switch being in the on position. Just rewire the power side of the signal fuse to the battery directly. 2nd option, a bit more complex, would be to isolate the hazard/flasher relay power from the rest of the circuit and wire it straight to the battery via a fused line.
  25. Looking @ the electrical diagram, yes that is the way its wired, to only work with the key in on position. The hazard switch appears to just provides the ground path for energizing the hazard relay. Best case, you could simply hardwire the hazard & flasher relays directly to fused power, straight from the battery, rather than switched power. But need to spend some time looking at the other circuitry involved & how that would impact other functions. The hazard & flasher relays are on the same power circuit (switched/fused) as the brakes & turn signals, so would need to make sure those two relays can have their power isolated without messing up any other functions. Power to the relays actually comes through the normally closed brake switches.
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