Condor

Time to replace the thing... eBay....

I'm not totally sure, but I think you'd have to swap out the whole basket. I picked up a complete MKI clutch off eBay and planned on giving it a try. Never got around to it, and the things up in the rafters somewhere.

How much better?? The stock ratio is 70/30, and that's why I'm asking. What is the difference in the ratio that the R1 would cause?? Personally I didn't experience any great change other than the braking was improved. A bunch of members have already done the R1 swap and so far I'm not aware of one that voiced that they experienced any problems with the linked brakes and the R1. Maybe it has changed, but is it great enough to cause problems with the system, and tell folks they should not put an R1 on the left side?? Without backing it up with actual data it's not enough to just make that statement. Here's my spin on this thing. The proportion valve distributes the applied pressure into 70/30 no matter what caliper is on the front end. If a caliper does a better job in braking then it's an improvement. Since the front brakes have both been improved, and the front brakes supply the majority of the braking on a bike the actual braking pressure on the front and the rear will actually decrease due to caliper efficiency. One benefit would be that the chance of high siding will decrease, and overall braking will increase with less effort. My 2¢

LOVE DIS POST.....:clap2::big-grin-emoticon:

Ok, what's the stock ratio, and then what does that ratio change to when using an R1??

With all due respect, that just ain't true. I put a set of R1 calipers on my '83 with '86 forks, and kept the stock rear caliper since the stopping power of the rear was minimal anyway. I kept the brakes linked. They worked fine. The left/rear was much improved.

WOW!! Lots of opinions. And they all are good, and here's one more.. I have a leather jacket that I bought new at an auction and have never worn. Got the chaps too. Some big guy is going to get a great deal when I check out. They offer great protection when skidding down the highway, and in cold weather they are excellent. The reason for not wearing the leather's are they are so dang heavy, and when it gets cold I don't ride. I tried a FirstGear Mesh (eBay), and rode it in Nevada 'Hot' on the way to Ft Collins and back in '07. It did keep me cool, but wicked body moisture out of me like a sponge. When I got back home I pee'd orange for three days before going normal again. And yes I did hydrate, but 105° for 10hrs will getcha.... So I picked up a Textile... which is basically a fabric... I love it. I've ridden in high 90's, and down in the low 40's in complete comfort. The Jacket has zippered vents in the sleeves and in the back to keep air slowly moving when hot (Cody'11), and rides warm when it get's nippy with them closed (Bear Tooth). I personally don't know why anybody would wear anything else?? But.... that's just my opinion...

First off I think the trailer is too short for the RSV. A 10' will give you enough room to get the engine ahead of the trailer axle and increase the tongue weight. I run a 10' with an HD Harbor Freight chock bolted to the bed. Rides perfect. The only way you're going to get more weight forward is move the axle back about 6". Rule of thumb is the tongue weight should be about 10% of the GVW.

Sigh.... I know I'm gonna catch a whole lot of flack for posting this..... but..... There is absolutely no way tying the clutch lever back against the grip, and leaving it sit overnight, that the air will magically purge itself out of the clutch, and into the reserve... When the lever is back against the grip the master cup has moved passed the expansion hole and the cup lip is sealed against the wall of the master cylinder. The system is sealed. Overnight it's possible that some air will rise to the top of the line and pass the banjo bolt, but it will not pass out the expansion hole due to the position of the piston cup. What happens in the morning, when the lever is released, any collected air will slowly bleed out the expansion hole and into the reserve. Unfortunately not all the air will. It might work, but not at maximum. I know members have used this method and swear by it, but every time someone suggests it, I bite my lip... Not this time....

You still have air in the clutch line.

I agree totally. It just like the internet where every thing is true....

Before Annie bought her Harley Trike she rode an RSV. I assume they sold it. What ever happened to it?? Maybe it's moved to SoOz???

NICE!!!!!

It's at the bottom of the reserve. It looks like someone started to drill a hole and then said ooops!! and stopped. At the bottom of the oops is a tiny pin hole. With the reserve cover off, if you slightly squeeze on the lever a tad the surface of the fluid should deform a bit. It it does you're good to go assuming you have all the air out of the line. If it doesn't take one of those twist ties you find in the grocery section of the market and strip the cover off. The wire should pass through the hole and dislodge any junque. That just leaves the air in the line. It's hard to get all the air out of the clutch, and if you had someone else bleed it they might not have got it all out. The only way I can get it all out is to reverse bleed the damn thing. I'll shoot you a PM with a 'how to' write up.

The RSV steering is pretty piggy to begin with so the rake may help?? I found out that if you just pull to turn a Voyager you better eat your Wheaties. Push right to go left, and visa versa, and it's a whole 'nuther ball game. Much easier. I've never read a report of a Voyager Kit using a raked set of forks. It does make a trike steer easier.

Six months after the Barnett is too soon for slipping to occur. As far as the plates go I have never run into one that was under specs. You mentioned you had the clutch fluid bled. My thinking is there's still air in the lines, or the expansion hole is plugged. Air will expand and cause the slave to apply pressure to the rod linkage. A plugged expansion hole will not allow hot fluid to bleed back into the reserve and apply pressure to the linkage via the slave. That and I've always run Valvoline MC wet clutch specific and never had a problem with a clutch slipping.... My 2 ¢

I'd own one too Puc.... if'n they weren't so cotton pickin' ugly....

I'm wondering if some of that UV reactive glue they're advertising on TV would work on our plastics. My dentist uses it occasionally. Sure would make quick repairs... One demo shows them repairing a tooth brush...

The Ruger Hawkeye Varmint in .204 Ruger would be a good choice. http://www.ruger.com/products/HawkeyeVarmintTarget/images/17974.jpg

Yeah, the 17 in just about any configuration isn't doing too good. Lots of neg feedback. Since you already own a 223, I'd opt for a V configuration in the same caliber... A Remington 700VS and a decent scope would be my choice. No sense complicating things.

The answer to that is Progressives and keeping the front forks aired up to 10-14psi.

And that's probably the big reason the pads didn't last. You really need to get on the rears since they only are good for about 30% of your total braking power...

Welcome to the party... This has been happening for years with Metzlers. It's sorta a love hate relationship. Some guys love 'm, and others won't touch them with a 10' pole....

Since I don't do much out of the inclement riding I just went with a 10" smoke on the '07 and '99. Will probably go with one on the trike too...when I get around it. It satisfies my needs, looks kinda cool, and only cost $50 bucks!!

I bought a pack of 'El Cheepo' pads off eBay a number of years ago, and when I tried to install one it was too wide for the caliper opening by a few mm's. They're still laying somewhere in the roll-away. I just figured if they can't get the measurements right, what else is not up to par. Nothing but EBC's since...