Condor

Carry an umbrella....

Torque wrench and hex sockets for the rotor screws. Replace the OEM .calipers with R1 or R6's.

Did you know... The Voyager Mounting Kit will fit both the 1st and 2nd Gens. The center stand needs to be taken off on the 1st, but all the hardware is the same. Also it looks like your Voyager is fairly late model. Nice looking...

Also bad ground plane due to corrosion at the mount.....

Sorry gotta ask. Did you use a pigtail between the radio and the SWR, and have the antenna connected to the SWR. The reason I ask is that with out putting a load on the radio you will blow the finals, and that's what it sounds like you've done. The finals are gone and you're not putting out a signal... hence... 0 readings...

The '04 came without the tank badges... Kinda like it. Didn't think I would... But I did add Slowroll's Twinkie and carb covers... Might pull the eyebrows off as well...

Your carbs are way out of sync and need serious help. Try this. Remove the sync tool, put the bib caps back on, and then back off all the sync screws 2-3 turns with engine off.. Then start the engine and set the idle to around 1000rpm. It will likely run like cr@p, but it will run. Then turn in the #1 carb sync until the rpm starts to increase slightly, and then back it off just a tad. This is all done without the sync connected. Now it's time to connect the tool and fire it back up. #2 and #1 should be pretty close to being sync'd and will only need to be tweaked. #4 and #3 will be way out. Start balancing 4&3. The idle will start to climb as they get closer to being balanced. Re-adjust the rpm's back down to about 1000rpm. You may have to do this a couple of times. Once #4 and #3 are equalized balance to #2 and #1. You should be good to go. I think what may have happened is a P.O. or a wrench used the wrong screw to adjust the idle. It's more common than folks realize.

Too bad we can't pump some of that stuff out west....

How big is that Reese Iso, and what do they cost?? I put a powered Iso in my '99, that didn't take up a whole lotta room, but can't remember the brand??. I did pick up a new Rivco off eBay for the '07, but it seems much larger than I remember... I guess I could stop being lazy and go out and take a look...

Skydoc may have something. He does split calipers occasionally.

Really enjoyed watching those videos on their website. Shop time $40/hr!! Thanks Monty.

In your original post you just stated that you battery wasn't charging. One of the questions should have been.... 'at idle??' Our bikes only charge when the rpm gets above 2000rpm +/- The original just might have been OK.... And what you perceived as a bad charge system might have been because you were checking it at idle??? I'm not sure what controls the charge gate, but if it is the rectifier the new one may bypass that requirement?? Anyway it looks like you have any potential problem solved...

There's been a couple of members who have championed the high rpm sync, and then refuted by Goose. I believe Goose...

Dang!! Look at all that water and green grass. I'm jealous....

One of the things I've found is the slight 'buzzing' in the grips is almost or completely gone. For those with carpal tunnel it's a big plus....

It's the trailer...the trike, and running around in 5th gear. Pulled a trailer with the '99 to Cody a couple of years ago and milage dropped into the 25mpg range, and didn't see much difference in the gas mileage even though I ran in 4th a lot. Never did feel a loss of power. Dropped the trailer at the motel and took a 250 mile round trip ride to Shell Falls. 40mpg. The only time I went to 5th was going down hill for long stretches. Rode up to Mt Hood in OR. Lots of lower gears on the '07 and got 47mpg. Again 5th only when going down hill... Mostly 3rd and 4th.... It's going to be interesting to see what happens now that the '04 has the Voyager Kit on it...

I picked up the stuff I used off eBay when I rebuilt the Bubs, but found several sources after doing a google for I guess it's starting to catch on....

Wonder if they had a chase vehicle with a bunch of fuel to service it between takes. Fascinating regardless.... That trike that Rick posted was out of it's element. Needed to be doing the quarter. Awesome frame work...

Dave, when repacking the mufflers use Ceramic packing. Also a little 0000 steel wool will make those babies shine right up. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qkBrho_q2GI]Aero Exhaust Ceramic vs. Magnaflow Rockwool Muffler Packing - YouTube[/ame]

I think they still have a few thousand left over...... Beware!!!

Interesting review and also the link to the video on their website. I'm still am not sold on the concept, but I said that about the tilting trailer hitch ball when I first saw it too.... I'm just a born skeptic, or from Missouri in another life?? It's something new and different, but to what end. I already have a bike that tilts....

Without getting super technical, and in lay-mans language, I thought that's what I posted???

A smart charger has 3 stages in their system. Bulk...14.2 +/- vdc, finish...13.4 > vdc, and float..12.9 vdc. A true smart charger will have a battery type selection which will eliminate the bulk stage for batteries susceptible to damage by gassing such as Gel, and AGM batteries. Every battery maintainer that I've ever run across is rated for 12.9 vdc... Float. It will neither cause gassing or overcharge... just maintain. They are designed to replace any ambient power loss, nothing more, and can be safely left on for very long periods of time. This also brings up the subject of our using AGM's in our bikes. The rectifier will allow 14.2vdc charging, but that rate drops quickly to 13.3-4vdc because it doesn't take much to replace the amps used to start a Venture. Too quick to start gassing. However, if a bike has been left sitting for a very long period of time and the AGM is at a level that will not start the bike, do not recharge the battery just enough to start the bike, and finish using the bike's stator output. Use a true smart charger which is designed to work on an AGM setting, and bring the battery to full charge before attempting to start the bike. Not doing this will shorten the battery life, and reduce performance.... Gassing is death to a Gel or AGM... IMHO

The only reason for tires to start cupping is low tire pressure. I'd check and make sure you've got the pressure up to sidewall specs. Then if that doesn't cure your problem, like others have suggested, start looking at the steering head bearings....

Aw...dang!! Actually on our showroom floor we have several 1stGens to choose from. "93, '91, '90, '87, '83, and a couple of others that I can't remember the year.... WE also have a plethora of parts in inventory including a '91 engine if'n you want to start from scratch. I'm sure we can find something to fit your budget...