Flyinfool

[h=2]7th annual Mid winter M&E Milwaukee[/h] Well it is time again. M&E for SE Wisconsin in Milwaukee This will be the 7th annual mid winter M&E. OK I have picked a date so you can all start to RSVP. It will once again be held at the Final Approach, 4959 South Howell Avenue, Milwaukee, WI 53207 ‎(414) 744-7060 ‎ Time 1:00pm till ???? If you are looking on Google earth, yes they have an airplane mounted on the roof. This is the 7th annual mid March M&E that I am having. It has been a great time every year so far. Feel free to come in a cage. March is not usually good for riding. I will be in a cage and I am only 2.5 miles away. PLEASE RSVP on the calendar so that I can let the place know how many of us to expect. Yes everyone can come, they said that they LIKE motorcycles and don't mind rowdy groups. I hope to see a bunch of you there. You can RSVP here.

Glad you got it figured out AND fixed.

Good try, but all the cooling system knows is the pressure differential created by the radiator cap relative to its surroundings, which is PSIG. PSID is when you need the pressure differential between two points where neither is at a hard vacuum or atmospheric pressure. You could have a million and 15 PSIA inside of the engine as long as it was in a room that had a million PSIA and it still should not leak because there is still only 15 PSIA or PSID or PSIG on the seals. PSIA is pressure relative to a theoretically perfect vacuum. Sorry but the mystery continues. The point where the seals decide to pee on the floor seems to be a very critical temperature. That critical temp varies from bike to bike, probably due to individual tolerance stack up and age / condition of the parts. But can literally be if the temp drops 5 more degrees it will pee. Or the bike just don't like being parked in one place.

Good Luck.....:fingers-crossed-emo:fingers-crossed-emo

Usually on these bikes any messing with the air box or air filter will need rejetting. Any drastic changes to the exhaust will also need rejetting. People have tried to drill a couple of 1/2 inch holes in the air box to let in more air and ended up having to seal those hole up to get it to run right again.

In that same area is where the stator wires come out of the side cover, that is a popular place to leak.

Flip the hi lo switch and see if the beam actually changes. But if the white dash light is on, the red warning should be on to. Are you sure that you put all the bulbs back in the correct locations. Try shifting into gear and see if the white goes out, it might be the neutral light.

#2 is the one with the grey wire going to it.

Check the obvious first. Is the hi or lo element of the bulb burned out? Just because there is light does not mean it is ok. The bike will automatically switch to the other element if one burns out, and it will then light the headlight warning. Silverstars do not have a very long lifespan.

There are 2 styles of diaphragms out that I have seen. The ones from Sirius Sonic are direct replacement no modding or hammering anything or gluing. Then there is another one that I a bit different and it does require mods to the slide and being glued are a one time shot, next time you will need new slides. I do not know if these ebay ones are the same as the OEM or the same as the ones that require mods or a third style that is something altogether different.

For Yamaha to get around it is easy they just designed the whole system to work together, they are not using an aftermarket off the shelf tach. Sometimes on a tach you can lie to it about what it is connected to. I once had a car with wasted spark ignition on a V8, I told the tach it was connected to a 4 cyl to get it to read correctly. If your tach has a selection for 2 cycle engine, use that it it will then read correct. Just have to play with what they give you till you find what works out. I often lie to various pieces of electronics to get the end result that I am after.

Unfortunatly you can not tell if the baffles are broken or about to break until you get it.

It looks more like a mix of the 2. The 84 says you should have a grey, a red/white, a black and a blue wire. The 83 says it should be 2 red/white, a blue/black and a blue/white. You have the Red/white, grey, black from the 84 and the blue/white from the 83. There is also a typo on the connector for the fuel pump relay on the 84 diagram, the connector shows 2 red/white wires, one of them should be black to match the wires going to the connector.

Well I suppose that if all the float bowls were full of water the tach would read zero because the bike would not run at all.................. So in the most technical sense the mechanics statement is true, but it is not at all relevant to your issue. His statement sounds more like a line of BS because he has no clue what the issue really is and he is trying to find out if you have a clue so that he can run up the bill with more BS. Then there is also the possibility that something got lost in the 3rd hand description of the problem.

I put my TCI in the left faring where it is nice and dry and cool.

I was able to find grommets that work at the local hardware store.

If you look at the wire diagram for an 84 then that has the right colors to be the fuel pump relay, and the grey wire from the fuel pump relay does go to coil #2 . As was determined in another thread there may have been electrical changes to the 83 mid year that are not documented in the wiring diagrams.

On the local news they have been giving warnings every day for motorists to watch out for bikes. This has become a standard part of the weather. I do not know if the weatherman is a biker. And now they are saying that we might tease the 70° mark this week.

The starter is right on the other side of the top front point of the left side cover. Circled in red. Please ignore all of the Chrome and shiny paint, this pic is Dons bike not mine....................

Happy Birthday to Skid and the Warden. But Dan, Have you ever forgotten Skids Birthday?

If the tach drops to zero with the engine running bad that is the first clue. The tach is driven from the #2 cyl primary side of the coil. So if the tach drops to zero then the #2 coil is not getting a signal to fire. That means you have electrical gremlins. All of the other issues sure points to a bad ground. It is possible that all of your issues could be a bad ground. I would start there.

FWIW Today was nice out so I went out to the garden shed and the bike was still there. The last time I even saw it was in October of 2016. I stuck in the key and had to cycle the kill switch twice to fill the carbs, pushed the start button and it fired instantly, just like it should. So after the 3 year old battery sitting in the bike outside in the Wisconsin winter for 4.5 months with no charger or maintainer, It had no problem cranking up the bike. Yes I like my good old Flooded Yuasa.

With RTV instead of a gasket I am surprised it even started. You need the gasket thickness to get proper clearance on the starter gear train. I would take a look at the gears to be sure the PO did not grind them down to stop the binding with RTV. I am not sure of the clearances but having no gasket may have been what started the contact with the stator screws.

Or is it possible that the 2 second feature was added during the 83 model year.

The Berrymans is a lot stronger solvent than Seafoam. I suppose it could do damage if you poured it in straight up and then left it sit for a long time. I use Seafoam for normal maintenance and Berrymans for a specific issue. but I do not let the Berrymans sit indefinitely. No it will not eat holes in the bike and garage floor on contact like the aliens blood. Neither is likely to dislodge a chunk of something that is stuck in the float valve. They are both used to clean deposits. For a stuck float I would use the procedure that Skydoc posted. I'll see if I can find it. Or at least open the drain on the stuck carb fully, then with the drain hose in a clean glass container. run the fuel pump a bunch of times and see if you can flush the crud thru. You maya or may not be able to see it in the glass jar, a pretty small piece of crud can cause the float valve to leak. If there is crud getting thru, you may be past due for a new fuel filter. It is also that the old rubber lines are breaking down on the inside from old age.