Flyinfool

Looking for a carb body. It does not need to be a good or even usable one, just not to physically damaged. I just need it for dimensional testing and fitting. Why you may ask, I am attempting to build a kit to convert our CV carbs to EFI. It will take me a very long time to build this kit and source all of the components needed. I do not want to pull off one of my carbs and make the bike unrideable all summer while I work on this. So anyone got a junk carb lying around?

OK now I went and did it. There is a website that I have been drooling at for a few years now. http://roadstercycle.com/yamaha_vmax_fuel_injector_cv_car.htm This guy figured out how to convert our existing CV carbs into EFI. The conversion makes no physical changes to any part of the bike so if you do not like the EFI you can always put the old parts back in and have you same old carbs back. It looks almost easy enough that you could keep the carb parts in a bag and convert back on the side of the road if needed. This should work equally well on 1st gen MKI or MKII or even a 2nd gen, with or with out a V-Max conversion. So a couple of days ago I hit the "Add to Cart" button on the website and got an error. Bummer. So I sent off an email to the guy to see if he was still making the custom parts for the conversion. He emailed back that he is no longer making the parts kit for $200 but he is selling the plans for $20. I figured COOL, I have a lathe and a mill in my basement and I have more time than money anyhow. So I ordered the plans and they were in my mailbox within an hour. I have since redrawn the plans into 3D cad, made some custom changes of my own, mostly cosmetic and to make the parts a lot harder to actually make. So now I am starting to source and acquire all of the various parts that will be need to do this conversion. Another one of the advantages of doing this is that the EFI controller is also quite capable of handling ignition duties at the same time. This means that spark timing and fuel can be coordinated. it also means that I can easily switch to COPs without having to buy another TCI. This is not a project that will happen real fast. It will take me a long time to figure out how to actually make the parts and do all of the machining. I also have budgetary issues that mean it will take me a long time to acquire all of the parts needed. Clip to hold the injector in place. Fitting to attach the fuel line to the injector. Inside view of the injector holder that will replace the slide and diaphragm in the carb. Outside view of the injector holder that will replace the slide and diaphragm in the carb. Replacement side cover for the carb.

Amen Unfortunately lots of people seem to need

Usually the 2 O-Rings come with the filter. Check the box in the store, I have found a couple that were missing one or both o-rings.

If someone believed the book and put in 4 quarts it IS overfilled and may even be over the top of the sight glass. A normal oil change will be just under 3.5 quarts. The 4 quart number is for a fresh built motor that has never had oil in it. There are a lot of places that do not drain out the drain plug. I have never seen one of these engines that had any sludge inside. Try slowly putting the bike on the side stand while someone is watching the sight glass to see if an oil level appears. There have even been people that filled to the center of the sight glass with the bike on the side stand, that would be WAY overfilled. If it is that overfilled check you air cleaner box, it will have a lot of oil in it. As to which oil to use, I aint even getting into that can of worms..............

I don't know where in Alaska he is, but I know that Anchorage has a warmer climate that what I have here in Wisconsin. Their record high is higher than ours and our record low is colder than theirs. They always seem to be around 5-10° warmer than I am, And where I am is by far not the coldest place in the rest of this country, or Canada. So having a bike in AK could make more sense that most of the northern USA. And I bet there are some great scenic roads over there.

Most shops that sell new bikes have the 10 year policy. If you go to the shops that only sell used bikes you stand a better chance. I found one local shop where my 88 is one of those "new" bikes. The place looks more like a museum that does bike work. He changed out my tires, new valve stems and balance for $50. I had to bring the tires in to him along with the new tires I wanted. He wanted another $250 to take the tires off the bike. I had to put 80lbs of junk in the trunk (I used barbell weights) to hold the front tire off the ground. Make sure that you put a ratchet strap from the center stand to the frame to be sure it does not collapse when you set the forks down on a piece of wood to get the rear tire up in the air so you can pull it off.

The 1200s are lighter by a very few pounds and may have a slight advantage in maximum acceleration. They are close enough that it may even just be the difference in rider skill. But the 1300s do have all of the bugs worked out of them.

Have to ask the obvious question, was the bike on the side stand for this test? It must be straight up and level for this to work right. Turn on the ignition and see if the pump will run to fill the low bowls.

I have an 88 standard (Not a Royal) it came from the factory with cruise and I don't have all that other stuff for the Royal that is always breaking from old age. 1. The early years had a few issues that were all sorted out by the middle of 85. 2. There is supposed to be a mark placed on the outside of the engine case when the 2nd gear was fixed. 3. The second gear is not necessarily a deal killer. cowpuc has put over 300k miles on each of several MK1s all having no second gear, including a lot of mountain riding. Although even he will admit that it is a lot nicer to have 2nd gear available. Riding it with no 2nd gear does not do any additional damage to anything. To fix 2nd gear requires a complete tear down of the engine and transmission. All of the gaskets an stuff are way more money that the actual part to fix 2nd gear. Of course if you have the engine all apart then you will want to fix all kinds of things "while you are in there" Due to all that work it is VERY expensive to have someone do it. 4. Value has a lot to do with condition a bike with no second gear could be worth a lot more than a bike that has a good 2nd gear. 5. There is a thread with most of the known issues. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?86-Known-Problems-and-things-to-look-for 6. IF all maintenance was done on schedule, these bikes will easily go over 200K miles. If proper maintenance was not done it could be dead in 25K. You can usually tell by the general condition of the bike if it has had regular maintenance.

Yes we were still on for today. Yes I did make a 747 burger vanish before everyone's eyes. Yes I did help Erika finish off her meal. Yes a good time was had by all. If you didn't come you missed out.

My LED turn signals have a much bigger and brighter light source than the incandescent and my self canceling still works fine. It all depends on your preferences and how you decide is the best way for you to set it all up.

According to the service sticker it is 3 years and 3,000 miles OVERDUE for an oil change. Considering that abuse, I might go up to $20 on it.

If you are getting the same make and model and size of helmet it should be the same no mater where you get it from. It is when you change from one model or brand to another that size goes out the window. When I go to a shop to try it on and see what I like. I will usually get it from that shop. If you do not support the local shops then they will disappear and all that will be left is pot luck thru mail order. Yes it costs a bit more to support the local shop and I certainly am not made of money, but to me it is the right thing to do. I really miss some of the small shops around here that have folded because people were using them to get hands on to see what they like and then heading for the internet. It does cost more to maintain a storefront and have staff to help you, If I am going to use a service I expect to be willing to pay for that service. Sorry for the rant.

It sure looks like the oil is actually coming from above somewhere that is out of the picture frame. The oil is running all the way down the side of the engine case and the water pump housing. It might just be something as simple as you over filled the oil in the crankcase. Over filled oil will blow up into the air cleaner box and then drip back down onto the engine. The oil level in the sight glass should not be more that the bottom fill mark with the bike upright on a level surface. Clean everything up and then keep a close eye on it to see where the oil leak is starting from.

Must be the same thing that is wrong with you and I since we are all almost neighbors, I also like SNOW.

My experience buying helmets is that I have to try it on before I buy it. I think size means nothing in the world of helmets. The last time I was helmet shopping 3 years ago, I tried on 2 slightly different styles from the same manufacturer, in one, the medium fit perfect, in the other the XL fit perfect. This is from the same manufacturer on the same day. I had not just saved someones life or anything like that, that could have made my head swell real quick. Or I may also have an odd shaped melon that needs different fits.

Up here I can smile and say "Cool" to 23" of snow, it is no biggie and was cleaned up to dry roads by the time I left work at 4:30pm, snow stopped at noon. Down by you if you were to get 23" of snow the massive excrement on the roads would be slicker than the snow is and the area would be paralyzed till it all melted on its own.

That is pretty much what I do. I take off the bottom that is screwed on, then make a cut so all that is left on the board is the part that contains the connector contacts.

Final tally here was 23 inches in town and 21.5 inches at the weather station. I am half way between the two. It will go way quick as they are taking 40s for the weekend and 60s by early next week.

You do not have to cut the side that is already off, just the other side that is attached.

It is no longer being made. All you can do is watch ebay type places for one to appear or make your own.

Job Opening For Hunters. . . Snaking on Saturday I'm “the puller”, but if you’re interested, the position of "hole guy" is open. First, we wrap the "hole guy's" arm in a skin for protection. Then we find a big hole and the "hole guy" crawls in. We use modern lighting. There it is. Those must be eggs. I let it take my protected arm, sort of like noodling for fish. Then my buddy pulls me out with the snake attached. Ain't it a beauty? It will feed the whole village for a while. Snake Noodling - - - - - What real men do! Maybe standing in line at the grocery store isn't as bad as it seems!!! And some of us thought that our work was tough… Hum

Gary I can fully appreciate your dilemma, it seems very close to mine. I have a lot more time, energy and skills that I do money. Yes it is easy to say just go buy a used dedicated toy hauler. but sometimes the budget is just not there. I have looked at a couple to convert into rear ramp type because I have yet to find a trailer that will hold a 1st gen sideways. According to Yamaha specs A first gen is 2540mm or 100 inches long, the max outside dimension of a trailer in the USA is 103 inches before you need oversize permits. That leaves you just 1.5 inches for wall and ramp thickness on each side, and that is IF the bike is touching both side walls. It just aint gonna fit straight sideways, it will have to be angled. FWIW The front of the trailer has a much smoother ride than the back of a trailer. Due to the lever action the rear of the trailer can move double the height of the bump up and down when the wheels go over a bump in the road. The front of a trailer will move half the height of the bump. That is why it is so critical to strengthen the frame back there, all of that weight moving at a greater distance and velocity makes for a pretty big hammer pounding on the back of the trailer.

You have 2 options for getting in there. The connectors are part of the case. 1. Desolder the connector pins. These boards are very old and fragile and it is easy to lift or damage the pads while doing this. 2. Cut the top part of the case right next to the connectors to make the top 2 pieces. When reassembling I seal the cut line with electrical safe RTV. Just do not cut to deep and this is much less traumatic for the board.