Flyinfool

When I needed a valve cover gasket on short notice last spring it was $25 at the local stealer.

And the original posting from the CARMO website is $10 cheaper. It sure looks like they are both the same item. although in the add on the Regulator Rectifier site it says that you will actually receive the smaller Orange one with the connectors on pigtails and not like the OEM where the connectors are part of the module. That would certainly be worth a call to find out. I would pay $10 more for that tiny one that will fit in more places. Fortunately I am not in the market for a TCI right now. Also, I do not have $330 of curiosity to try one out right now.

For the $2 that you save over picking them up at the stealer, compared to the amount of work needed to get to them if they leak. I would spend the extra $2 and buy local.

I said Don't ask..........

It might look like a bad photochop cuz it is. The bike is real enough, that pic that The Touch posted is the same pic as was used in the add with the background of the original photochopped out and the school background photochopped in. Look at the reflection in the helmet, both pics have the reflection of the guy that is bent over by the helmets.

And there is a Chevy Venture mini van to help confuse searches.

Can you read the markings on your load equalizers? or post a pic of them. they might just be the wrong value.

Sounds like fun.

The carb sync just sets the throttle plates to be all open the same, it does not effect fuel air mix or the slides directly.

Sure I could, but I don't know if you can afford me. I can eat an awful lot of pizza and Ice Cream..............

Dig? Roots?. That is what chain and trailer hitches are made for. Yes digging them out will be a good waste of time, but it will get you a lot of exercise.

The problem with waiting is that by the time it is running bad, you may already have burnt valves. It will not start to run bad until the clearance gets to ZERO. Once it hits ZERO the valve will no longer seal and the leakage will burn up the valve. It is the leaking valve that makes the engine run bad. Some, maybe even many, have needed no adjustment till after 60K miles, and then only a slight adjustment, this is true. Others Like me decided to wait a while. I did mine at 50K for the first time and had 3 valves they were down to less than .001, As in my .001 feeler would not go in, yet the shim could still be rotated in the bucket so it was still more than the dreaded ZERO, but not by much. I was probably not many miles away from doing severe engine damage. ALL of mine needed adjustment, not a single valve was in spec some worse than others. I set all of mine to exactly the high limit to give the longest possible time till they need to be done again. So it comes down to "Do you feel lucky" Even if you do t,he check and they are all good at least you have the peace of mind in knowing that they are all good, and sure that you do not have a ticking time bomb. Do you stop checking tire pressure regularly because sometimes it is ok and does not need to be adjusted? As for a stealer charging for a valve check and not doing it. In most cases you can tell if there are new valve cover gaskets installed, I would find it hard to believe that it would be worthwhile for a dealer to get that far in and not do the easy part of the job. I can believe a dealer would blow the whole job off but still charge for it.

First thought what length spacers did you install with the progressives? Did you install the OEM aluminum spacer with the O-rings that goes right under the threaded nut? Did you change the weight or amount of your fork oil?

I did it to myself again. Why do I do these things. I had 20,000 lbs of driveway gravel delivered today. Of course that meant that I had to spread it all around, slope it for run off, smooth it out and then compact it. I now hurt in places that I did not even know I had........... :backinmyday: :backinmyday:

Or just toss them out the window of the airplane as you are going over my house...............

Sounds like a blast, well except for the hot part.

Checking and adjusting the valves is not hard to do, but it does take a lot of time. That is why the stealer is so expensive for the job. We have talked many mechanically challenged people through the job. As for the carbs. I have never been into mine so I can give no credible advice there.

Check the brake rotors close, at 9k there will next to zero wear, at 109K there will be a lot more wear. 109K will also show wear on hand grips, seat, foot pegs, and rubber shifter pad. Many do not understand how the linked brakes work, and if you get air in the system they can be tricky to bleed resulting in a soft peddle. All of the brakes hold up surprisingly well for a bike this heavy. The factory brakes are a bit anemic to begin with, changing out to all EBC HH pads helps a lot. Good luck

I have a 2000W inverter that I use to run a 2.5 hp circular saw, Sawzall and an electric chain saw when I am back in the woods. All of these are fairly high current draws. I use a single 15 year old deep cycle battery left over from my RV and I have yet to run the battery dead. But be warned, that if you are running something that pulls 10 amps at 120V, it will be pulling 110 amps from the battery. Just look at the power requirement of what you will be using, multiply by 11 to get the draw from the battery and compare that to the Amp hour rating of your battery. that will give you a good idea of how long it will last. 2000W is 16.7 Amps at 120VAC, that would be a battery draw of 183 amps at 12Vdc. Make sure your battery cables are big enough for that. You do not want to run the 2kW inverter off of your car battery, the car battery is not made for that and will not last long. You do want to get a good Deep Cycle battery like what is used in a RV for best performance. The other thing to consider is starting surge, many inverters can not handle a lot of starting surge. so they will have difficulty with big motors like AC or compressors. Saws and such are generally started with no load so the starting surge in less. I used my 2KW inverter to build 2 towers with 6' x 6' x 7' enclosures on top for deer hunting back in the woods. Those solar panels that you have are probably around 15W output so it would take 133 hours (11 days at 12 hours cloud free sunlight per day) of strong direct sunlight to recharge 1 hour of draw at 2000 watts. Since my truck does have a spot for a second battery under the hood, I was thinking of mounting my Deep cycle under the hood so that it is always being charged by the truck whenever the truck is running that way it will always be handy, charged and ready to go.

All good things must come to an end. Now I will have noting to do but make other plans........................................... @VanRiver And who you calling one fart smeller??????

Wisconsin does not have diamond lanes on any of the roadways, but we do have diamond lanes on most metered ramps for getting on the interstate. Those diamond lanes do allow motorcycles.

How far did you turn the adjusting knob, It has a pretty fine thread and takes a lot of turns to make a difference. It is also possible to miss the adjuster when taking the headlight out and putting it back in. Don't ask how I know about this one...........

Yup 17 is to high, Sorry I can't help with parts recomendations for a 2nd gen.

Or Control and Zero

This to many lights thing does not compute, I can not conceive of this malady. Yes removable parts should have connectors