BlueSky

I think 91 is the first year for the strong starter. (4 brush starter versus a 2 brush starter) So, you shouldn't have to worry about slow hot starts.

Welcome! Did you get a 1st Gen this time too?

I'm no expert on these bikes but I think I would start on the rear by making sure the brake isn't sticking, not likely I'm thinking, and then pull the rear wheel and inspect.

The front brake on my 07 takes more hand pressure than I like but I can make the front tire howl when stopping quickly which is probably good enough. I'm sure the brakes have the OE pads. Perhaps for a rider with my below expert skills, it is safer than more sensitve brakes especially on wet roads.

Kinda like Puc and Tippy getting a ticket for impersonating a cop because Tippy was wearing a white helmet.

There is a used one on ebay. Pinwall cycles may have one. I suggest you try other parts houses just on the off chance they have one in stock such as bikebandit, babbitts, carolina cycle and many more.

Check the compression to verify the engine is healthy. Then check to make sure the engine base is vented properly.

Yeah, bikes with saddlebags are wider than you think. I would be afraid to do it on my Venture but the Kawasaki, I would do it if the cars are stopped.

Fluid Film

All these "safety" features can be irritating at times. How did I survive to be 77, starting with no seat belts, no steering wheel locks, no neutral switches...? I don't remember my first bike, a 71 Honda CB350 having any interlocks. My riding lawn mower started blowing fuses so I bypassed the safety interlocks one by one trying to find the short. I had to be seated with the brake depressed, and the blades off to start it. Then if I backed up the engine shut off. That thing is so much more of a pleasure to use now with those interlocks bypassed. By the way the short was in the device below the carb bowl that supposedly shuts off the fuel to prevent backfiring when the engine is shut down. I defeated it too because a new one cost about $80 and it wasn't effective anyway.

Velly, velly nice!

One more thing to expect is that the spark plug caps screw onto the wires and it isn't a weatherproof connection resulting in the wires corroding. Typically, clipping a half inch or more of the wire will get rid of the green copper wire and screw them back together. MY 85 Kawasaki wires include an oring inside the cap connection that makes it a weatherproof connection.

Sounds like a great find! Rusty tank would be the primary concern. There is a filter but. Likely the carbs would need cleaning.

My ex next door neighbor had a heavy duty looking trailer that folded up and stood upright on the side of his garage. It had small diameter wide tires on it. I don't know the brand or cost but it was pretty neat. Sadly, he passed a year or so ago at age 88.

If you haven't found this yet, this site has the RSV manual available to read. https://www.venturerider.org/forum/topic/63540-rsv-and-rstd-service-manuals/?tab=comments#comment-766941

That sounds like the Gen 2 gear whine everybody seems to think is caused by the clutch basket gear. My Gen 1 transmission (only 6k miles) is fairly quiet unlike my Gen 2. The Gen 2 has a loud whine/chirp at a certain rpm and almost all Gen 2s have that annoying whine/chirp.

Progressive spring explanation from the manufacturer FORK SPRING KIT The 'Original' Progressive Rate Fork Springs soak up the small road bumps, yet are firm enough to absorb the molar-rattling ones. Spring rates have been chosen to reduce front end "dive" during braking, yet still provide excellent ride comfort. Better yet, we warranty our fork springs for life! Progressive Rate Fork Springs have several advantages over straight rate springs. A Progressive Rate Spring has the advantage of a rising rate resistance to compression. The benefit of this is that the spring can be soft enough at the start of the travel to offer a "plush" ride, yet be firm enough at the end of the travel to soak up the big bumps

Welcome! Go to the tech library and read up on the first gens. This is a thread you might want to read in particular. https://www.venturerider.org/forum/forum/77-known-problems-and-things-to-look-for/

Heavy duty springs probably will displace more oil and raise the level if you use the same amount as before. Safest method would be to measure from the top I would think.

Have you checked the first gen parts for sale section?

That's a nice trailer. I bought a 5' x 8' trailer from Lowes to trailer my Kawa home from WI where I bought it. When I bought the RSV, the trailer was too short. I used two sections of 2" plastic pipe that I had cut for fishing rod holders on the beach and rope to hold the tail gate back at an angle to keep it from rubbing on the trunk of the RSV.

I've been watching a lot of utube videos lately about WWII and I'm amazed at the courage and sacrifices made to beat back the Japanese and Germans. So many young men willingly went on missions that they knew there was little chance of surviving. I can only hope that I would have had that level of courage. I served a tour in the USArmy in S. Korea but did not have to fight so I don't know. My respect and eternal gratefulness for these young men has no bounds.

I guess Skid is so busy mayoring that he doesn't have any spare time.

In my opinion, a closed trailer is the best for bike trailering especially if you are going long distance. One reason I came to this opinion is that when I open trailered my Kawasaki from NC to Homestead FL to my new job location in February it rained a lot on the way and the snowbirds were driving to FL from snow country with salt all over their cars. The rain washed the salt off their cars onto the road and then it was sprayed up on my motorcycle. The bike was lightly covered with salt and I was so busy in my new job, I neglected to wash it off quickly with the obvious result. Those dang snowbirds! Haha!

Very nice looking bike! They have carbs so that means they need some choke when cold but they fire up immediately.