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Thought I would share some thoughts after this morning's ride on the 89 VR from Phoenix down to Green Valley... My 4 year old Shinko 230 Tourmasters are really holding up well. Still look great and handle well. Comfortable tires, for sure. Rotella T6 oil was just used on an oil change. I've noticed the valves are a bit noisier (5-40wt synthetic vs 20-50wt dino maybe?) and she sure shifts slicker than....(insert your own word here) And I didn't fix that pesky leak. I thought maybe that was the case when I got to Phoenix and she marked her spot. Pic is of sunrise off of I-10 about 1/3rd of the way down. Crisp morning with cool temps and warm sun!

They sure look like the right ones for the swap. Measure the mounting holes. If they are 100mm apart, they are good to go. Oh...I believe they bolt up as is on the 1st gens, but you need to take off the caliper holder on the 2nd gens. Correct me, someone, if I'm wrong... The attached file is a pdf from Gary Mace....includes pics... R1_Swap.pdf

Ideas: Check the start switch.. Make sure it pops all the way out. Lights come on only when switch is released at end of travel. Dirty or corrosion. WD40 is a temp fix. Check emergency stop switch on right handlebar. Wiggle it...dirty or corrosion. Check ignition switch....wiggle it when running and see if lights come back. Usually not a problem on a1st gen. Follow diagnostic procedure in Manual to check fan switch... Right side above motor. Radiator drain plug at bottom.... Do not overtighten!!

I see the Boss beat me to the response! But yes, the ignition switch could be heating up. Or is corroded or dirty. Intermittants of any type are not easy to deal with.... Just don't shotgun it. One thing at a time which sounds like what you are doing. Good luck... Good idea on another fuel pump. The points on the Chinese units are the weak part. In fact, the points on all of the fuel pumps in this generation of v4's are weak. My RSV included. I did the ignition bypass on my RSV which was a known issue. Not many complaints about RSTDs..... But worth a good hard look.

Gabby, can't help you in ignition switch testing. It would be possible to temporarily wire the fuel pump directly to the battery as you suggested, but you would lose the safety features built in to bike. First, I would suggest you check the gas tank and see if the vent is plugged. When it does again, take off gas cap. If a vacuum is present (you will hear the whoosh of air) then the tank vent is plugged. The vent and the fuel pump are the two issues I'm aware of as possible issues....

My Walther PK 380 loves that Russian ammo! The white box winchester jams every time in 2 out of 3 clips. Checked spring length and tension of clips and they are the same. Go figure!!

If you loosen the 2 clamps that hold the clutch line to the frame, move the electrical stater wires out of the way, remove the rear cover, you should be able to unbolt the slave and push it down out of the way. If you see oil in the recess where the slave was bolted, then the seal around that clutch shaft is probably leaking. There is a guide and a seal. I may have the same problem as I couldn't find any leakage when I took mine apart a couple of weeks ago. As MiCarl said... The slave is sealed. I put a wood block between clutch handle and grip so I don't accidentally pull clutch lever. I'll get the VR back home next week for extended work... Chasing that pesky leak!!! Good luck.

I have Progressive. Have 100/300k with zero deductible. Collision/uninsured/underinsured. Full coverage. 89 VR and 05 RSV Through USAA...$495/YR. IF PAID in full. I think that's the best deal I found for Arizona. But I no longer live in Phoenx... So my rates went down.

Here ya go: 2 links that show jump[ering the CMU if you want to convert to all LED, and jumpering the RLU if you want to stop the annoying warnings when you switch to an LED headlight... http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?129385-1st-Gen-LED-Headlight http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?92274-How-do-you-quot-Jumper-the-CMU-quot-for-LED-s-bulbs-to-prevent-the-warning-light-coming-on

It worked for me....

RD have a safe trip! OH...teachers...yea they never know when to quit working. A friend of mine's wife kept going until she realized the bennies were not keeping up with her years and the school district wasn't going to get any better. She finally quit after 35 years. She's mad she didn't leave earlier....just a thought. Teaching is great but not rewarding financially anymore...

Thanks...don't know where it was purchased as it was a gift. But this is a favorite place of guys I know... https://www.budsgunshop.com/catalog/index.php

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?43027-1983-1985-Throttle-Side-Electrical-Switch-Disassembly-and-Cleaning http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?43025-1983-1985-Clutch-Side-Electrical-Switch-Disassembly-and-Cleaning Scroll down to the pdf link. Download pdf. open and print...

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?43027-1983-1985-Throttle-Side-Electrical-Switch-Disassembly-and-Cleaning Scroll down to the pdf link. Download pdf. open and print...

From another forum... The gear indicator operates by grounding power from the CMS at the gear selector switch, through that spring loaded brass contact point, that rotates across the inside of the switch. If you had the switch connector unplugged, was the CMS side of the connector kept far enough away from metal that there could be no grounding occuring, giving you false gear indication? To test the CMS, with the harness unhooked at the switch end ground each of the 6 wires (neutral+5 gears) from the CMS one at a time....you should see a different gear display on every wire. If you do the CMS is working right. If it doesn't......check out the CMS board further. If wiring tests fine ..then something is still bad at the switch end.

I too love to travel and have over 200K on my Yukon XL crossing the country multiple times, visiting friends and enjoying the food and flavor of America. I'm concerned about my butt ! The Yukon is comfy...the RSV is comfy but not sure I can take the heat of summer all day long. After 40 plus years in Arizona, I would think heat would not be an issue for me, but the older I get the more it bothers me... Four Corners Ride...now that would be a challenge, for sure! Thanks for the encouragement...

Sounds interesting. That does sound like a good spot and you can probably pack clothes and stuff on top of tank as well. I'm toying with the idea of doing a long distance ride this summer. The wifemate has given the go ahead knowing this may be my last chance as age is creeping up! I rode across country in the younger days and on a smaller bike...but...grins! So I bow to your superior knowledge of LD riding! Congrats on all your Iron Butt's! I was thinking of carrying a small gas can in one of the saddlebags. But most of my riding would be near or on major highways so gas shouldn't be a problem. Even in the Four Corners area, there's gas nearby if you plan your stops. I was concerned about going across the New Mexico desert on rt 70, but have found enough stops to make it without a problem...and that's assuming around 35mpg's with reserve (keeping the scoot under the sound barrier as well!).

Thinking out loud.... The starter may not be bad. Check ground and power lead...by check I mean take off the connections, clean and put back on. If that doesn't help then take starter off and take it apart. There is a thread around here, I think by cowpuc, describing how to clean the interior parts of the starter. They do get gummed up with brush dust and stuff....If that doesn't work then borrow a starter and try it or buy another. If the tank sitting overnight doesn't work....try taking off the overflow hose at each carb, put the little red tube in the nozzle of your favorite carb cleaner and spray up into the overflow and into the bowl. Get a good shot in there. Let it sit for at least an hour. Carb cleaner (or equivalent) is the only stuff that will clean up hard deposits. That should get into the main body of the carb and help. Seafoam and such will help keep the system clean after you get the old, hard deposits out. Keep an eye on the fuel filter. If the bad gas has been in tank for a long time, the filter may get clogged up. I always use the kill switch. It's a habit for me and always has been. It makes no difference to the bike. But to me, the starting procedure and shut down procedure are rote. I don't want to start with kickstand down or leave gas on with the 2nd gen and risk engine issues. So I have always done things the same way. There is a reason the military gets you to do things over and over. And in this case, I agree. As far as dash lights and such. Suggest you clean up the fuse area. Even if you keep the old fuses (as I have), if you clean up the connections, then you know they are good. The dash comes out easily and you can check bulbs on the bench. While there, lube the speedo cable....and clean the dash connectors. The rest is nothing more than tracing hot and ground leads until you find a corroded or bad connection and making repair. Keep us posted...oh take pics!

Hey guys and gals.....been thinking about a road trip or 3. Haven't decided whether to stress the ole bod with the summer heat on a scoot or drive the truck. Regardless....was trying to lay out one of the trips in Google Maps and got really tired of waiting for map to respond. BTW, I'm on a 50mb/s cable connection using an older Win XP machine with a fast processor, fast ram and SSD drives. I don't think the computer is the problem as I can see the network connection flayling away as I click on destinations to estimate each days trip. Got tired of waiting for the sluggish responses. So...what map programs do youse all like for planning trips. Something I can use to not only plan, but print out each day's run as well as carry a copy on the Android tablet or phone. TIA, d

Finally got around to putting highway pegs on RSV. Snugged them down good. Didn't use locktite and am wondering if I should. Still haven't installed the braces for the engine guards though. And still looking for a place to mount 2 spot lights for driving lights....wonder if I can find room down on the guards!!

OK...I've been looking but can't find pics of your aux fuel tank. I'm curious.....

Happy Easter!

Just got this in January as a birthday gift from a long time friend. It's a replica and has a good rep for accuracy... Always loved the old west....

Good call...I agree. JB Weld may fill in that gap and stay there. Let's hope the brain trust here can confirm or add more ino.

The RLU only switches automagically between high and low beams IF one of the bulbs is burned out. That way you never lose lighting on a dark and stormy night in the middle of nowhere... Glad to hear the new relay solved the short problem. The bolt hole at the bottom center is supposed to have a washer on it under the bolt. If there wasn't one, then that's your leak. In other words...all the little bolts go in snugly by themselves. Only the bottom center bolt has a brass type washer to keep oil from leaking out of that hole.... BTW, do not overtighten these covers. Around 90 to 100 inch pounds I think...about what I can twist the tool with my wrist only. About 7 to 8 ft/lbs? I think this is the part.... Yamaha Gasket 90430-06014-00 If I missed something my apologies...