dna9656

Yeah I know some women.....do and some men....

Yes I know; did I not make that clear in my post? To quote "Change the starter clutch, as I have a set of new clutch disks on hand so I will install those. Question: Would I get better performance by glass bead blasting the clutch steels or should I leave well enough alone?" Seems to me that makes it clear that I know the difference. But thanks all the same.

Well regarless of that, the book says what it says. Most engines in my experience do just fine on the recommended plug. IMHO everything on the engine should be factory spec before you start changing the heat range on plugs.

Did you not see the diagram from the parts catalog?

Ok my new '85 has some issues. The Starter clutch needs replaced (I have the one intended for the 83/84) No 2nd gear, hard starting, and the shift rod (item 21 in the picture) seems to wobble yet there is no oil leak. The adjustable link has a piece of rubber hose and tape connecting the BROKEN? adjuster? has tape on it and the other end. The bike has a toe/heel shifter lever on it that has a lot of play inboard to out board. There are floor boards on this bike, In my exp. they just get in the way of shifting, my 83/84 had them. I prefer the pegs with foot rests mounted to the engine bars. I found the wrong spark plugs had been installed; I found NGK#DPR7EA-9S in the holes instead of the DPR8EA-9S called for in the book. The fuel filter looks pretty dark but I haven't removed it yet; I have one on hand. I have not heard the pump run either...yet I drove it home a good 50 miles on Sunday. The left rear carb boot wasn't exactly installed right, and all the boots were loose. The oil in the sight gauge is on the TOP line (when cold) instead of centered in the window where it belongs. When moving the choke lever there is no sense of anything moving, I thought the cable was broken but it's there and moving the choke levers. The PLAN is to install coil over shock ignition coils and the Ignitec ignition but I have to re-program the ignition for a '85 first. Change the starter clutch, as I have a set of new clutch disks on hand so I will install those. Question: Would I get better performance by glass bead blasting the clutch steels or should I leave well enough alone? Of course I will fill the carb bowls with Sea Foam and let it soak for a few days while I pursue the PLAN AND run the obligatory 3 cans of Sea Foam through it once it runs. I have a new oil filter on hand and will change the oil once it's running. The tires look good, I got the error code 4 on the air suspension controller; I have a friend (ex missile tech on Ohio Class Subs) who can fix that for me. This bike is esp. clean! Under the seat, the wires are all bright and nice. I installed the seat my wife bought for me in celebration of our wedding anniversary and my birthday; Both are on the same day! It's covered in real 2 tone leather, heated and extended in the back for her comfort, along with the back rest (mounted on the trunk) and the pad that supports the "small" of the back mounted below the back rest. The fuse box is 100% original! looking under the false tank cover gives me the feeling of what it must have been like being an Original owner; I mean there is a COVER over the fuses! All the in-line (fuses/breakers) stuff is there! It's a dream (or nightmare) come true! So I would LOVE some input from you folks!

Appreciate the advice! Keep it coming! Will be checking all of these things out over the summer....

UPDATE! Paid $2,200.00 for her. A VERY WEIRD trip home. rides all different from a 2 wheeler. The things I noticed: Temp gauge does not work yet the fan goes on and off. Gas gauge was reading one bar below full when I left the PO's house. Was on one bar below 1/2 in 25 miles. the vents on the dash and left side shin d/n stay open. Did not get the intercom wire, wrote the PO to mail them to me. The owner's manual was in the trunk, didn't see a tool pouch though. The radio works on one station, the speakers ain't worth a damn. Tried the CB, didn't hear anything. The air system reads code 4; big surprise there. It has a miss/back fire. I'm sure the plugs are tired and the ign. wires are prob tired too.

It certainly takes some getting used to!

The PO said he found (on the internet) a company in Georgia that would build a set up based on measurements sent in by the owner. It has an air bag on each side to act as a spring. Pics later.

You have one VIN already, here is both, the "first" and the one I'm picking up tomorrow. new one: JYA59J003FA000512 old one: JYA59J001FA001416 So this one was built later? See my post in the watering hole.

I have a '85 parts bike, now I'll have a reason to not part it out! I'm picking this baby up on Sunday! It will be the 2nd out of 6 ventures I have not had to trailer home! She has no 2nd gear but I do have 5 other engines in the shop and winter is on the way!

Will a 91 engine fit a 83 frame? Is it a good (worthwhile) thing to do? I think there a lot of modding to do...

That's what I did, after opening the float bowl drain screw fill the float bowl til it comes out the vet, stop and let soak over night, drain and repeat. Look in poor man's fixes.

That's what I did, after opening the float bowl drain screw fill the float bowl til it comes out the vet, stop and let soak over night, drain and repeat.

YW!!! Be careful, VERY CAREFUL with that Berryman's, Pete (here on the forum) tells me that stuff is VERY HOT and MIGHT dissolve your floats.... I have a story...While I was serving in the USAF in Alaska a guy came into the shop wanting to clean a radiator grill in our radiator tank. I can't remember what was in it but it sure cleaned a radiator! They regulate that stuff now....anyway he put the grill in the tank and when he came back at the end of the day he couldn't find anything in the tank, he thought we took it out for him... no we didn't....it was in a puddle on the bottom of the tank, the "stuff" dissolved the Chevy truck grill.... So watch out with solvents....

Seems sound to me but I have zero exp!

There is a procedure in the how to section here on the forum about cleaning carbs on the bike. You fill the float bowls through the bowl drains with Seafoam and let soak, drain and repeat like shampoo. Maybe a blast of compressed air though the tiny holes in the top of the carb will knock some crap loose, then again that might be a bad idea when you've knock some crud loose and it's got stuck some other place....VERY interesting and informative thread though. I am about to start on my second resurrection...so all is good stuff! Read the how to section in it's entirety; also good stuff.

35mm film? like photographic film or mylar? Does anyone have a recommended parts list for re-building the forks? I have a set of '86 forks I plan on installing on my 83 along with the R6 brakes, I hope to install the progressive springs as well. My thoughts on proper fluid in the forks; I solicit feedback on my thoughts here as I haven't done this. When draining the existing oil measure how much is in there as you pour it out. Just FYI record that number. Check out how much came out against the book amount FYI. Service the fork with the book's recommended amount of oil and (using some tape) mark the level on the outside of the fork tube and install new spring; (hopefully it won't overflow) note how far up the tube the oil moved with the increased displacement of the larger spring. If it looks like it will overflow the fork tube you could remove the spring, reclaim the oil, reinstall the spring and refill the tube until the original oil lever is reached. Note how much you used and record. If it doesn't overflow you can use a straw (or any other tool that can draw oil from the fork tube) remove the (now) excessive amount of oil to the original level you put in there to start with. Note how much you remove, subtract that number form the book amount and record that in your notes for the next time you change the oil or for a subsequent owner.

I really have no plans to swap out engines yet BUT.... So I have been gone from the forum for a while as my No. 1 bike has a unserviceable engine and it's been too cold to work out in the shop. I now have FOUR parts bikes, ONE of which I'm going to keep and the rest part out after I get a new No. 1 up and running. So my first priority is getting the "new" No 1 going. After I get the new one up and running I will move all the parts I have on the former No. 1 to the new No. one. The reason for this is just 'n case the new one has major issues I would not have gone through all the machinations of moving good parts to a hopeless case. I have (through the kindness of my financial advisor; my beautiful wife...) now 2 HF motorcycle lifts as it's getting harder to bend down low to the floor and work, get up and then down again. Besides up on the lift you can actually SEE what you're trying to accomplish yes? Going to and fro between bikes moving parts will be much easier. We sprayed 2" of insulation and then covered that with R25 batt insulation in the garage a few weeks ago. I have been using a propane heater to take the chill off and have been quite happy with the results so far. I hope to permanently install a Reznor style heater in the overhead before next winter hits. So any locals that want to come out and help just let me know. I have 4 carb kits (such as is available) to install and I want to go through everything except the innards of the engine and tranny as that's WAY over my head. PEACE Doug

Maybe this will be helpful: http://www.customfighters.com/forums/showthread.php?t=54471 On length of intake. http://www.onallcylinders.com/2012/06/13/how-to-choose-a-carburetor/ For formula to find the right CFM

There was a VW carb and manifold on Ebay a couple of years ago for $500.00.

Always happy to be of hep; it were the leastest I coulda did.

Of course if you have a Harbor Freight M/C lift you can do this without removing the fender or bumper. The lift has a removable trap door on it allowing the tire to fall out (a controlled falling; controlled in some way by you; I use a rope over the the side rails behind the saddle bags) under the rack. It takes some brawn to get it out or (back) in there but that's how I do it.

I have a couple of bikes that have a pair of these switches, 1 set controls the search function of the radio in 2 modes I think; the other mute/ volume. If your radio works you're 1 lucky guy. If it doesn't your just as common as the rest of us! Those switches (as was prev. stated) won't carry a lot of current but can control a relay to do what ever you like. The secret function to the eject mode requires a double tap on one switch or the other i don 't remember now. Since some folks blabbed about the eject function many have been de-activated.

I remove the gas cap, lift the bike up over my head, then invert it while holding an open umbrella in the other hand. After it stops dripping I set the bike down and let the rest air dry. I hear throwing a lit match into the tank followed by a fast get away works well too.