Beau-Kat

Done! Thanks for letting us all know. Rusty

Thank you for the message. You and I are now brothers, adopted through Christs' shed blood and resurrection.

Two words: Castle Doctrine.

Yup, Yup. I'm in the same boat (literally) with ya. It's about 67 degrees and raining today. My boys got plastic snow sleds. They are in the yard in the mud with them, but still having a blast! It is what it is on Christmas in South Carolina.

My Christmas presents to me were the new voltage regulator and battery for my RSV, and the new spark plug wires for the VMax. If it ever stops raining around here, I'll go for a nice, long enjoyable ride. Merry Christmas Y'all!

Just wondering because a few times in this month, diesel actually dropped a few cents below regular unleaded here (usually around $1.62 diesel/$1.67 regular). So I was wondering how about motor oils. The last time I saw diesel below gas was way back in 1980. That March I bought a 1980 VW Rabbit Diesel (slowest steeenkin' car ever!) and diesel promptly went to $1.05/gal vs regular gas at $1.00/gal. I had heard gas was going to 2 bucks a gallon and I had a 1966 F100 with 340 k miles on it. It got crappy mileage and could drop dead at anytime. I had started my career in 1977, still wasn't making a whole lotta moolah, but was starting my nightly commutes to college too. I had worked hard and saved a little money and needed something dependable and inexpensive to operate. So, I bought my first new car, this VW. And they jacked up diesel a whole nickel over gas (which took a very, very long time to reach $2/gal.). Oh, the nerve!

OK gurus. Crude oil prices are way, way down. Gasoline and diesel prices have dropped dramatically since last year. So, why hasn't dino engine oil dropped accordingly? I'm not talking about synthetic stuff.

Sorry about any confusion with my post. Wasn't too worried about sulfating. Just asking a question to try it with this old battery just for curiosity. After 4.5 years on the old DEKA, I just bought a new DEKA, so I wouldn't get left on the road at some point. My bike is a 2000, so the R/R had some years and miles on it and indeed failed. I checked the 14.5v at idle initially after the first start-up once I installed the R/R and the new battery. This morning, I started the bike and let it run about 15 minutes. Immediately after start-up, and at idle, voltage began about 14.28v. After the engine had run several minutes it had dropped to 13.9-14v. Revving to 2000 or so, voltage went back up to 14.3v.

Back in the late 60s, I had heard similar stories about Ping-Pong balls dropped in the tank. Don't know if those were true, or just yarns. Seems like gas would eat up the Ping-Pong balls

Well, I took the Roadstar back to the owner last week. He has reported that he has ridden it many times and it has run like a top and he is happy with it. Thank you, Lord. Case closed. Now, on to some of my own Vmax maintenance. Still looking forward to plenty of riding days during the wintertime around here.

FJR1300! I can only dream. Always wanted the 2007 model, but now with cruise and 6 speed trans, oh man, that's the ticket! Maybe if I dream about the $$$, I'll come into some and be at the Yamaha dealer soon (well, I think I read that they will be available this spring).

Just replaced the voltage regulator on my RSV. Charging around 14.50v or so at idle now, so that's good. Went ahead and got a new DEKA ETX20L AGM battery to replace my 4.5 year old DEKA ETX20L, which is probably still good, but I get an F03 fault intermittently during charging. The charger doesn't turn off and will charge to full. But I was wondering if you can desulfate an AGM? My 2004 model smart charger that has a desulfate mode is a Vector model Vec 1090 A, but it doesn't have the choice option for Wet/Gel/AGM like the newer model Vector charger. I've used it with success on lead acid batteries before, but unsure about AGMs. Internet searching hasn't given me any good answers. So...

Maybe tank venting issues instead?

Just needing some replacement gloves. Mine have worn really well, but are old now and are tearing at the thumb joint. Or, having a few old friends come visit us at our new residence would be better than that!

Man, that's some tough luck story. I can (sorta) feel your pain. At least sympathize with ya. I have the opportunity to crash and burn this 57 year old body playing with my two 5 year old boys. Grandkids go home and return every now and then. My boys are here 24/7. And they wanna play 36/8. Hope you aren't damaged and maybe just stove-up some. Get better soon. You still have some riding time left where you are.

Bought plenty of stuff from Pinwall in the past and was satisfied. But, Man, I haven't been to Pinwall's ebay site in a while. Looked there today and saw what they are asking for stuff. Even beat up fuel tanks. Outrageous! http://stores.ebay.com/PinWall-Cycle-Parts-Inc/_i.html?_nkw=Venture+Royale&submit=Search+Store

If you want some laughs while learning some things about electricity, this guy is a hoot! Question: Why do we laugh at other folks' pain, screw ups, etc.? Answer: So we'll learn not to do what this guy does. He has many more videos like this on Youtube.

I don't know much at all about Bluetooth. Can you broadcast to several bikes at once the way you can with the cb? Or do you actually make phone calls to one other person through your phones with bluetooth or what? I'm bluetooth ignorant. I use to lead 50-65 bikers on our Thursday night CMA rides. Placed bikes with CBs about every 5 or 6 bikes and communicated very well that way. If the pack got split up, there was always a CBer who could talk to me about their whereabouts.

Maybe he's actually out riding instead of spending most of his time helping us out with out bike problems.

Yes. At 2100 rpm with RR disconnected got 57 volts a/c equal on all three pair. A-B, B-C, and C-A. I was hoping the .7 ohms, since it is equal on all three legs, might be tolerable for now. With my bike all together and everything connected, I was getting at least some (albeit slow) voltage rise when revving the engine. Wouldn't go above 13 though.

Joe? Stubborn? No Way! Thanks for the info. My connector at the RR looks great. No corrosion or heat stress apparent.

:happy65::happy65:

Yes. I tested just after starting with the coke pulled out. I do have a tach. I don't remember what the tach indicates shifting from 4th to 5th. I've never shifted by what the tach indicates, except back in the race days many moons ago. Anyway, tach indicated 2100 steady while I quickly took the three 57 v readings. Didn't test at any greater rpm today. I can easily test at a higher rpm (maybe 3400) tomorrow. I don't have any corrosion on any of my connections I have pulled. I live in the south where we don't have to salt the roads. And my bike is stored inside. I agree the connector was a bear. Wires could have easily been made 3-4 inches longer and connector located out of that tight spot where it is, making the testing much easier. But I don't think there is a translation for "easier" from English to Japanese.

Yeah. I don't know why that happens. Maybe they just don't add our MM model number in their databases. I bought mine used with 10k miles showing in June of 2002.

Looked like starvation/venting to me too. Since it would restart rather quickly, figured it probably wasn't a component getting hot and causing the bike to die. But all that fueling stuff was clean. Even when I took it all apart again, it was all clean with good fuel flow, venting, etc. Well, it finally dried up around here and I got to road test the Roadstar again. Ran like a top this time. Never cut off. Rode it about 50 miles. Just don't know. I'm gonna try to ride it about 75 miles next time before I declare it (miraculously) healed and return it to my friend. Need the room in my shop. Thanks for all the assistance I received from all of y'all.