dogman Posted July 29, 2016 Share #1 Posted July 29, 2016 I'm on a bike trip at the moment and our radio system has completely shut down. Won't turn on. In the evening the buttons are lit up. I checked and changed the 10amp fuse with the spare but still nothing. It did stop working after riding in a heavy rain. It worked intermittently the next day turning itself on and off and changing radio Chanel's in it own then the next day it would not turn on. Any suggestions? I will look for a Yamaha dealer if I have to change the top unit. Really miss the intercom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freebird Posted July 29, 2016 Share #2 Posted July 29, 2016 Probably not the issue but there are two fuses that affect the radio. One under the left side cover, the other inside the right lower. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dogman Posted July 29, 2016 Author Share #3 Posted July 29, 2016 Thanks. I only checked the one under the lower cowling Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cecdoo Posted July 29, 2016 Share #4 Posted July 29, 2016 If you have the time, take the outer fairing off, open the big connectors and spray some contact cleaner in and then alittle dielectric grease in each connector. Its been known to fix alot of radio issues and it only takes about an hour of your time. Hope you are having a great trip otherwise! Craig Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dogman Posted July 29, 2016 Author Share #5 Posted July 29, 2016 If you have the time, take the outer fairing off, open the big connectors and spray some contact cleaner in and then alittle dielectric grease in each connector. Its been known to fix alot of radio issues and it only takes about an hour of your time. Hope you are having a great trip otherwise! Craig Thank you Craig. I did split the fairing. What I didn't do was first ride and look for some contact cleaner. I did what I could to clean the connectors and pushed them back together. There still was a little dialectic grease on the connectors. Before putting the fairing back on I tried the radio but it didn't work. After putting it all back together I tried it again and still nothing. I flicked and tapped the radio unit and the radio came to life. I couldn't change the station as none of the buttons worked but our intercom will work if it stays on. I had tapped the unit several times before with no success. So maybe if I can get some contact cleaner I will have full success Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XV1100SE Posted July 29, 2016 Share #6 Posted July 29, 2016 Just to be sure....there is no dielectric grease on the electrical contacts...right? You don't want dielectric grease on the contacts themselves. Should only be on the boots Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dogman Posted July 30, 2016 Author Share #7 Posted July 30, 2016 Just to be sure....there is no dielectric grease on the electrical contacts...right? You don't want dielectric grease on the contacts themselves. Should only be on the boots By the boot, if you mean female end yes that is where the dialectic grease is. There might be a smidgen on the contacts when they went inside Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary N. Posted July 30, 2016 Share #8 Posted July 30, 2016 Dave, I don't know if this might help or not. My CB hasn't worked for a couple of years but last weekend after the bike sitting out in the hot sun with the bike cover on it for a few days, the CB started working again. I'm guessing there was some moisture somewhere that finally dried up. Probably be ok until the next wash job. Sounds like your problem is caused from moisture to but I've had to replace the main cable that goes from the front fairing under the tank to the back seat due to a break near the head bearings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freebird Posted July 30, 2016 Share #9 Posted July 30, 2016 I had the same experience as Gary. While on a trip to Colorado one year on the '99, we had a couple days of very hard rain. The display started acting strange and then it finally stopped working. Once the sun came out and it was hot for a couple of days, everything starting working as it should again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
videoarizona Posted July 30, 2016 Share #10 Posted July 30, 2016 My guess is the remote unit on the handlebars has/had moisture in it. You can take off the left mirror and remove the unit enough to get access to the 4 screws. Gently take the unit apart. Get a hair dryer and on low heat, dry out the insides. IF it is dry and no moisture is seen, then check the circuit boards for any display of corrosion. I haven't been inside one of these as mine works fine until it gets some really cold wind on it then the buttons stop working. On my list for this coming winter. It's not rocket science. (although at times the scoot seems to think otherwise). If the problem isn't corrosion, then some component part isn't operating properly due to water shorting or bad contacts. Since no one has come up with a schematic for the unit (that I have found), or parts diagram, we really don't know what magic goes on inside there. Regardless, if your problem isn't a loose/corroded or wet connector somewhere inside the fairing or in the intercom run to the back seat... or a pinched wire in the harness going from handlebar to fairing...then the problem is probably inside the control unit on the bars. As far as putting it back together, I would use some vaseline or something around the two halves...just enough to form a good seal. Or whatever else the guys and gals come up with here that's better. You might go to the dealer and ask about it...see if they know. Some mechanics have great memories for odd issues with scoots they love to work on... I'm interested in this since I have a cold weather problem with mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Du-Rron Posted July 30, 2016 Share #11 Posted July 30, 2016 Just to be sure....there is no dielectric grease on the electrical contacts...right? You don't want dielectric grease on the contacts themselves. Should only be on the boots As per the tsb available on here, I have grease on the terminals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cecdoo Posted July 30, 2016 Share #12 Posted July 30, 2016 Me too! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XV1100SE Posted July 30, 2016 Share #13 Posted July 30, 2016 Long article but give a read - http://www.w8ji.com/dielectric_grease_vs_conductive_grease.htm Per https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silicone_grease... "Dielectric grease is electrically insulating and does not break down when high voltage is applied. It is often applied to electrical connectors, particularly those containing rubber gaskets, as a means of lubricating and sealing rubber portions of the connector withoutarcing.A common use of dielectric grease is in high-voltage connections associated with gasoline engine spark plugs. The grease is applied to the rubber boot of the plug wire. This helps the rubber boot slide onto the ceramic insulator of the plug. The grease also acts to seal the rubber boot, while at the same time preventing the rubber from becoming stuck to the ceramic. Generally, spark plugs are located in areas of high temperature and the grease is formulated to withstand the temperature range expected. It can be applied to the actual contact as well, because the contact pressure is sufficient to penetrate the grease film. Doing so on such high pressure contact surfaces between different metals has the advantage of sealing the contact area against electrolytes that might cause rapid deterioration from galvanic corrosion. Another common use of dielectric grease is on the rubber mating surfaces or gaskets of multi-pin electrical connectors used in automotive and marine engines. The grease again acts as a lubricant and a sealant on the nonconductive mating surfaces of the connector. It is not recommended to be applied to the actual electrical conductive contacts of the connector because it could interfere with the electrical signals passing through the connector in cases where the contact pressure is very low. Products designed as electronic connector lubricants, on the other hand, should be applied to such connector contacts and can dramatically extend their useful life. Polyphenyl Ether, rather than silicone grease, is the active ingredient in some such connector lubricants. Silicone grease should not be applied to (or next to) any switch contact that might experience arcing, as silicone can convert to silicon-carbide under arcing conditions, and accumulation of the silicon-carbide can cause the contacts to prematurely fail. (British Telecom had this problem in the 1970s when silicone Symel® sleeving was used in telephone exchanges. Vapor from the sleeving migrated to relay contacts and the resultant silicon-carbide caused intermittent connection.)" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djh3 Posted July 31, 2016 Share #14 Posted July 31, 2016 It can be applied to the actual contact as well, because the contact pressure is sufficient to penetrate the grease film. Doing so on such high pressure contact surfaces between different metals has the advantage of sealing the contact area against electrolytes that might cause rapid deterioration from galvanic corrosion. Probably best not to over do it. but a little dab will do ya. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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