videoarizona Posted April 23, 2015 Share #1 Posted April 23, 2015 Well..I did it. Going to pick up a 2005 2nd gen and bringing her home this Saturday. I'm renting a 5x9 utility trailer with ramp from uhaul. It even has a chock built in! I prefer to use 6 tie down straps...4 down low (front and rear) and two up top (on either side). So where do you'all recommend I strap down on the scoot? TIA, david Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cowpuc Posted April 23, 2015 Share #2 Posted April 23, 2015 :dancefool::dancefool::dancefool::clap2::clap2::photographing::photographing::thumbsup::thumbsup: YEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEHAAAAAAWWWWWWWW!!!!! :big-grin-emoticon::big-grin-emoticon: Oppppssss,, sorry David,, got overcome by adrenaline rush there.. No idea where to hook the tie downs, never got my lasso around one.. Reckon I would be looking at picking up some "Soft Ties" and being really really careful that any hard parts of the tie downs are no where near my GORGEOUS new bike if it were mine though.. You know what,, just thinking out loud here and probably way off base but I did help a really close friend haul his new Ultra one time.. We got yapping with the Dealership that he bought the bike from and found a set of bolt on devices that attached under the bat wing fairing.. They were really nice (kind of pricey too though) and he ended up leaving them on his bike for future use - they solved a LOT of the issues of which you are thinking about.... CONGRATS ON THE NEW SCOOT BRO - CANT WAIT TO SEE/HEAR ALL ABOUT IT!! BEST WISHES IN GETTING IT HOME SAFELY:thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cowpuc Posted April 23, 2015 Share #3 Posted April 23, 2015 like this is what I am thinking http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kuryakyn-Custom-Tie-Down-Brackets-Teardrop-928-For-Harley-Davidson-/271421757306?hash=item3f31ff577a&vxp=mtr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Du-Rron Posted April 23, 2015 Share #4 Posted April 23, 2015 If you're willing to take the tank and the seat off, you will have better possibilities. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ragtop69gs Posted April 23, 2015 Share #5 Posted April 23, 2015 These are the point I use for tie down. I use strap extenders on the handlebars to get the ratchet strap hook away from the paint and put them as close to the riser as possible. Use ratchet straps NOT cam straps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
videoarizona Posted April 23, 2015 Author Share #6 Posted April 23, 2015 Jay, that works for me. I have 6 rachet straps ready to go.... Thanks for the pictures! I may take the seat off...we shall see. Thanks for the help! david Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atoolnut Posted April 23, 2015 Share #7 Posted April 23, 2015 i agree with all points to tie down ..except for using handlebar straps..i deliver bikes for yamaha dealer use bar straps only when absolutely neccessary..our bike with its weight can/will bend bars if too much force on handlebar straps is used..get ratchet straps with the soft tie down loops and snake it through lower triple trees around fork....i agree with other tie down points..not needed to remove tank..keep bike on side stand if you choose..no need to fully compress forks you need some give for bumps...hope this helps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ragtop69gs Posted April 23, 2015 Share #8 Posted April 23, 2015 Also DO NOT leave it in gear, as any rocking motion will cause the pistons to move in the bore without lubrication. Not good for long hauls. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ragtop69gs Posted April 23, 2015 Share #9 Posted April 23, 2015 i agree with all points to tie down ..except for using handlebar straps..i deliver bikes for yamaha dealer use bar straps only when absolutely neccessary..our bike with its weight can/will bend bars if too much force on handlebar straps is used..get ratchet straps with the soft tie down loops and snake it through lower triple trees around fork....i agree with other tie down points..not needed to remove tank..keep bike on side stand if you choose..no need to fully compress forks you need some give for bumps...hope this helps That's why I stated "as close to the risers as possible" but you are correct, there is that possibility if too much force is used. Don is using a wheel chock so there's no need for aggressive fork compression. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bongobobny Posted April 23, 2015 Share #10 Posted April 23, 2015 I agree to NOT using the handlebars, they do get bent way too easily... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbig1 Posted April 23, 2015 Share #11 Posted April 23, 2015 Well I rented a trailer from uhaul. Bike was to long for gate to close had to put it in at an angle and it was a 5x9. So be prepared. Hauled mine in February this year. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted April 23, 2015 Share #12 Posted April 23, 2015 6 straps may be a little overkill, but I guess it all depends on the type of chock the trailer is equipped with?? If it's a simple chock you may need all of them, but if it comes with something like a Condor Chock... No relation... you may need only 2. Sam's Club, and I imagine Costco, sell a set of long 4x2" rachet straps. I use two of them. One for each side The straps come with a sewn in loop in the short end in order to wrap around something instead of hooking onto it. That's the end I use to anchor the strap to the upper part of the front fork. Then it's off to the side rail of the trailer. Wrap or do a tug boat hitch on the rail and the take the long end back to the rear guard rail. Do another wrap on it and then off to the side rail again and tie it off. The whole thing looks like a big Z. All the while you're wrapping you're keeping the straps 'snug' That all the pressure you'll need. This way the bike can work with it's suspension, and will ride like it's on rails. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ragtop69gs Posted April 23, 2015 Share #13 Posted April 23, 2015 Good plan Condor. I like to have more than 2, I have had straps fail on me. I also like to have straps on the back end of the bike to keep the rear from shifting on the trailer. I try to tie it down so it will stay on the trailer even if it flips over! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DarkLeftArm Posted April 23, 2015 Share #14 Posted April 23, 2015 How far are you hauling it? I pulled mine from Monterey, CA here to Tucson. I had a harbor fright wheel chock and mostly used the crash bars as tie down points. May have thrown a loop around the handlebars BETWEEN the risers. And like Rbig1 said, dont be surprised at how long the bike is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
videoarizona Posted April 23, 2015 Author Share #15 Posted April 23, 2015 Hi Bert, Albuquerque to Green Valley...so a shorter run than you had. Bike does look to be a few inches longer than my 89 1st gen. Yep...may have to go in at an angle.... I plan on two straps on front guards, two straps on rear guards. Those will keep bike from going anywhere. Then two higher up on either frame or triple tree area to keep straight up. All based on my previous experiences with bikes. Your comments and help are great since the 2005 2nd Gen is totally new to me. Now I have a good idea on where to go with the straps. I have a Harbor Freight chock but two problems I for see...1: tire might be to big and 2: Using the chock pushes the bike back almost a foot from the front of the trailer. The trailer I chose has an indentation in the front they call a chock. Deep enough to maybe allow the bike to sit straight and still close the ramp. We shall see Friday night! Thanks again everyone. Love this site! david Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2WHEELSFORME Posted April 23, 2015 Share #16 Posted April 23, 2015 If you have some soft straps you will find just enough room behind the fairing to go around the forks above the lower triple tree. Take that with your ratchet strap at an angle downward to the side and forward. Strap the front tire into the chock or the front rail of the trailer. That is all I use for short hauls. If wanting added tie downs secure the back of bike to each side preferably lower on the bike. No need to worry about the engine being turned over it is going nowhere. I now use a safety hook that cannot come unhooked, before I would use a piece of duck tape to be sure if the strap became relaxed it still would not come unhooked. Compress forks some but not all the way. Also beware of loose strap ends, also taped or tied down as they can flap and damage paint. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2WHEELSFORME Posted April 23, 2015 Share #17 Posted April 23, 2015 Those front crash guards are not strong at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted April 23, 2015 Share #18 Posted April 23, 2015 Good plan Condor. I like to have more than 2, I have had straps fail on me. I also like to have straps on the back end of the bike to keep the rear from shifting on the trailer. I try to tie it down so it will stay on the trailer even if it flips over! I've had a lot of the smaller 1" Harbor Freight straps die a violent death too, but that's why I now use the heavier duty 2" type from Sam's. Never a problem.... Much larger rachet than the el cheepo's .... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ragtop69gs Posted April 23, 2015 Share #19 Posted April 23, 2015 Those front crash guards are not strong at all. They are rock solid if you have some Carbon One crash bar braces installed. Otherwise pull straight out to the sides on the front crash bars Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary N. Posted April 23, 2015 Share #20 Posted April 23, 2015 (edited) I've hauled my RSV thousands of miles. Use a rocker style wheel chock, soft straps around the handle bars near the risers as possible then ratchet strap towards front and side of bike to clear fairing. Don't use mickey mouse straps, they stretch. Pull the front forks down a couple of inches evenly on both sides. I also use straps from the passenger floor boards toward front and side using the same floor attachment point as the front straps. Then cross strap at the rear lower saddle bag/trailer hitch mount. I've never bent my handle bars or had the bike move. Edited April 23, 2015 by Gary N. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atoolnut Posted April 23, 2015 Share #21 Posted April 23, 2015 the uhaul trail is not really a chock like a pingle style..its just a bump out in the frnt frame...dont put a cover on the bike as it will strip paint off real quick..lock bags and trunk..recheck straps after first good bump..your good to go Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DarkLeftArm Posted April 24, 2015 Share #22 Posted April 24, 2015 The front tire fits just fine in the harbor fright wheel chock. That worried me, too. I was very relieved when it plopped right in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
videoarizona Posted April 24, 2015 Author Share #23 Posted April 24, 2015 Well...ready for the road....to pick up scoot. Measured the inside of the UHaul 5X9 utility trailer with ramp. I got 108 inches. So..in theory, I have 3 inches to spare. BUT, since the trailer has that "indentation" they call a chock...that's another 3 inches. I should be OK with a 2nd Gen going straight in. But I'm prepared if not! Guess I now need to start thinking of selling one or both of my other bikes. Rats... David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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