Dale124 Posted August 9, 2014 Share #1 Posted August 9, 2014 It time for an oil change, and I would like to do it myself. The trouble is, I have never changed my own oil in any vehicle I've ever owned. Hopefully I don't need to turn in my Man Card for admitting that. I was wondering if you guys have some step by step instructions on this hopefully simple task. I do not have a lift, so hopefully that is not required. I don't mind paying for an oil change at the dealership, but it is a pain in the butt having to take it in and either leaving it there for the day, or waiting around till it gets done. Thanks in advance, Dale. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M61A1MECH Posted August 9, 2014 Share #2 Posted August 9, 2014 Use his link to the Venturers web site http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&frm=1&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CDMQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.venturers.org%2FTech_Library%2F%3Faction%3Darticle%26cat_id%3D002008%26id%3D258&ei=ou_lU_HeIcb8yQSRiIDgAg&usg=AFQjCNHmdVUvwotDELkk99NizWckRhHPbQ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike G in SC Posted August 9, 2014 Share #3 Posted August 9, 2014 Dale, You are in luck. Changing the oil on the Venture is easier than on a car. Other Star bikes have multiple chambers. The RSV simply has a drain hole, a filler hole and a filter, all easily accessible. Only tools, 17 mm wrench and maybe a big channel locks if the filter is stuck on. When the oil is down to drips, you might sit on the bike and lean it to the right for 30 seconds, then put back on kick stand to get a bit more oil out. Be sure to wet the new filter o-ring with oil before you put it on. Just don't over fill. Put the first 3 quarts in, then put somewhere between 1/3 and 1/2 quart more to finish. You can have a friend look at the sight glass when you stand the bike level,,, or use a mirror on a stick. And, go over the link Steve provided. Really, this is a easy bike to do. (might also see how to change oil in the rear end,,, easy too.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monty Posted August 9, 2014 Share #4 Posted August 9, 2014 Also, make sure to not use a wrench when installing your new filter. Getting it good & tight by hand is all you need. Half way up the sight glass is plenty on the oil. Don't want to overfill it. Make sure the old gasket came off with the old filter, before installing the new filter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BG Hawks Posted August 9, 2014 Share #5 Posted August 9, 2014 I use the K&N oil filter with 17mm nut on the top for easy off next time! http://img.jpcycles.com/product/ZZ74082_A.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XV1100SE Posted August 9, 2014 Share #6 Posted August 9, 2014 What mileage are you at? If you don't have a lift adapter and don't have someone to check the sight glass for you, you could do all this with a 2x4 under the side stand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djh3 Posted August 9, 2014 Share #7 Posted August 9, 2014 Dale, it is a pretty simple job as the other guys have said. I have a cut off piece of 2x2 about 5" long. I put it under the kick stand, this allows the bike to almost be straight up. you need this for two reasons. It will drain all the oil out, and for checking the level. When you get the oil filter off, take a look up there and make sure the old black "O" ring is not on there. Believe it or not I have removed an old filter when I worked in a garage and figured I would just look at the filter. If the ring is on the filter I'm good right? Well someone prior to me had not checked the surface and sure enough one was stuck up there. Luckily for them it sealed up. So first time thru take a look. As has been mentioned no more than half way between the lines on the sight glass or it will push oil mist out and you will have a mess. When you put the 3 qt in, start it up and idle it a minute or 2. then stop and let sit a couple minutes. Recheck the level and finnish. Remember you will probably have to tip the bike a tad to the right to level it still. A lot of us use the Shell Rotella T-6 syn oil, some use the dino oil. I like the purolator PL14610 oil filter or L14610. They are a little bit longer and will fit and give you more filtering area. But thats another whole 1000+ threads you can read. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted August 9, 2014 Share #8 Posted August 9, 2014 All of the above are right on. One Last thing to add. The drain pan. There's a lot of different types, but recently while shopping at Sam's Club I ran across a bundle of those aluminum serving pans. Perfect for catching the oil and not having it leak out of a an old plastic tub that's been laying around forever.... Can't remember the price but if I recall they were cheep, and I now have a life time supply....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dale124 Posted August 9, 2014 Author Share #9 Posted August 9, 2014 Thanks for all the replies, guys. Don, I am about 11,000 km's, which is around 6,600 miles. I had the oil changed by the dealer twice last year, the second time was right at the end of the season. I was due for a change and the owner of the shop said that if I got it done then, I would not have to wait weeks in the spring to bring it in, as it gets crazy for service there each spring. That was the last oil change I have had done, so, it's certainly time. With your descriptions of the procedure, this might give me something to do today, and it would help me get to know my bike a bit better. One last question. Do I need a torque wrench for reinstalling the drain plug? I had heard that if it is not tightened to spec, it will leak oil. Dale. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted August 9, 2014 Share #10 Posted August 9, 2014 Until you get more familiar with spinning wrenches I would recommend a torque wrench for about everything. As you become more familiar you will get to know the feel of the proper amount to pull on the wrench and need the torque wrench less often. There are a lot of steel bolts into aluminum castings. You would not want to over torque and strip the threads or snap a bolt, or be too loose and have leaks or something important fall apart. Having the torque wrench will come in handy because even seasoned mechanics will still use the torque wrench for critical parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest divey Posted August 9, 2014 Share #11 Posted August 9, 2014 Dale, exactly 3 litres will bring it up to half way on the sight glass. No need for any more than that. Also a word of caution. Without a lift, if you use a 2X4 to put your side stand on, the bike will be sitting significantly upright which is the intention. Just be careful when getting on/off or working around it as the tipping point to the right hand side is now closer than ever. Don't ask me how I know this but safe to say pucker power and brute strength won out over dropping it!! Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin-vic-b.c. Posted August 9, 2014 Share #12 Posted August 9, 2014 Dale, you can pick up some real good drain containers at Canadian Tire. I have 2 I keep around, when I change the fleets' oil I need 2. Then you can take the used oil back to the Canadian Tire for disposal also for free. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barrycuda Posted August 9, 2014 Share #13 Posted August 9, 2014 Put all of the previous posts together and you have a sure fire way to change oil and filter. It really is not that difficult, once you start to see how it all goes together. If I may add you may want to bring some paper towels, and wear some gloves if you wish so you can make the job as clean as possible. Good luck and keep us posted! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest tx2sturgis Posted August 9, 2014 Share #14 Posted August 9, 2014 (edited) And dont forget the crush washer! I see this passage in the page that is linked: "If your drain bolt washer is damaged and needs replacing the part # is 214-11198-01-00 "Gasket"." Ok...this is what causes some seepage on the crankcase and final drive....owners skip this part. Its called a 'crush washer' and it is SUPPOSED to be damaged...its soft and it gets crushed when you snug the drain bolt back in. Dont reuse it...just remove it from the drain plug and install a new 14mm crush washer. I prefer the two-piece steel but have used aluminum and brass with no problems. You can buy these at Autozone, O'Reileys, or almost any parts house. Rubber o-rings can be used if you dont have the crush-washer but they get deformed badly and can leak too. I dont know why the write-up is missing this piece in the parts list....seems like an oversight. Edited August 9, 2014 by tx2sturgis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest divey Posted August 10, 2014 Share #15 Posted August 10, 2014 Dale, one more thing. As you've still got warranty on your bike, make sure you keep your oil and filter receipts and make note of your oil change. That way should you have an engine warranty issue down the road, there shouldn't be any question about you not having performed the required oil change maintenance. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monty Posted August 10, 2014 Share #16 Posted August 10, 2014 And dont forget the crush washer! I see this passage in the page that is linked: "If your drain bolt washer is damaged and needs replacing the part # is 214-11198-01-00 "Gasket"." Ok...this is what causes some seepage on the crankcase and final drive....owners skip this part. Its called a 'crush washer' and it is SUPPOSED to be damaged...its soft and it gets crushed when you snug the drain bolt back in. Dont reuse it...just remove it from the drain plug and install a new 14mm crush washer. I prefer the two-piece steel but have used aluminum and brass with no problems. You can buy these at Autozone, O'Reileys, or almost any parts house. Rubber o-rings can be used if you dont have the crush-washer but they get deformed badly and can leak too. I dont know why the write-up is missing this piece in the parts list....seems like an oversight. It's a 2nd Gen. Spin on filter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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