jwox Posted October 16, 2013 Author Share #26 Posted October 16, 2013 Here's the link to the kit on ebay:http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-XVZ-1300-TD-Venture-Royale-3JS1-3JS-1989-Starter-Clutch-Repair-Kit-/140810527941?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts_13&hash=item20c8f624c5&vxp=mtr I'll get those gaskets too. I don't need an oil leak! The stator has a melted connection to one of the plugs. I haven't done a continuity check yet but he said it was charging when it ran. There has to be a reason the plug melted so I'm thinking I might need a stator too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snaggletooth Posted October 16, 2013 Share #27 Posted October 16, 2013 Here's the link to the kit on ebay. If it was me i would not go that route. Again. Done that. Two reasons. There may be excessive wear on the inside of the clutch body you can not see. Or even cracks. You should also replace the three bolts that attach the clutch body to the rotor. So there is another $15.00 or so. And OK three reasons. There is a special tool that is used to align the clutch body to the rotor while tightening and staking the new bolts. It can be done without it but it takes a bit of a touch.. Just things to consider. There are other things to look at to. Like the boss on the 72 tooth ring gear that seats into the engage clutch. If it is badly worn or damaged that effects how the engage clutch will hold. Just my thoughts. From my Droid wherever I may happen to be at any given moment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwox Posted October 16, 2013 Author Share #28 Posted October 16, 2013 That's why I subscribed to this forum for good advice llike that from knowledgable people like you. I won't go with the rebuild kit because I want to do it right even if it involves just buying what I need new. I have a three jaw puller on the way to get the rest apart and I'll see what's going on in there. With luck, I will just have to repair the gear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snaggletooth Posted October 16, 2013 Share #29 Posted October 16, 2013 I got to keep following this as the broken idler is driving me nuts. Can't see any reason to beat or pry on one. They usually fall out when you remove the cover. Keep us posted. From my Droid wherever I may happen to be at any given moment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snaggletooth Posted October 16, 2013 Share #30 Posted October 16, 2013 By the way...... have fun removing the rotor. First time off the crank can be fun. Lots of stories about that. And protect the threads in the end of the crankshaft at all costs. I found using using a THICK grade 8 washer on the end of the crank worked very well. Been some good stories about that to. NO BEATING THE ROTOR WITH A HAMMER EITHER! YOU BEEN WARNED. LOL. From my Droid wherever I may happen to be at any given moment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Huggy Posted October 16, 2013 Share #31 Posted October 16, 2013 BUT bongobobny says to hit everything with a hammer!!! He says that makes things fit better!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yammer Dan Posted October 16, 2013 Share #32 Posted October 16, 2013 BUT bongobobny says to hit everything with a hammer!!! He says that makes things fit better!!!! And Bob claims 2nd Gens are better than the 1st Gens..... :rotfl: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted October 16, 2013 Share #33 Posted October 16, 2013 Here's the link to the kit on ebay:http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-XVZ-1300-TD-Venture-Royale-3JS1-3JS-1989-Starter-Clutch-Repair-Kit-/140810527941?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts_13&hash=item20c8f624c5&vxp=mtr I'll get those gaskets too. I don't need an oil leak! The stator has a melted connection to one of the plugs. I haven't done a continuity check yet but he said it was charging when it ran. There has to be a reason the plug melted so I'm thinking I might need a stator too. It is common for that connector to melt. It does not mean that the stator is going bad. It happens when you get some corrosion on the contacts causing a bad connection. The bad connection then generates heat. Enough heat to melt the connector housing. Most people just eliminate the connector and solder the wires together, and cover each connection with shrink tubing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwox Posted October 17, 2013 Author Share #34 Posted October 17, 2013 That's great news about the stator. I plan on taking a look at it today yet before work. I have this weekend off so I can spend some quality time changing fluids, fixing the "error 4" problem on the air compressor, and general clean up. Hope my pullers come soon so I can get to work! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiCarl Posted October 17, 2013 Share #35 Posted October 17, 2013 Actually, if the stator is bad it won't cook the plug (at least on the bad lead). While you're replacing connectors do the one from the regulator/rectifier to the wire harness. Those burn up too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwox Posted October 17, 2013 Author Share #36 Posted October 17, 2013 I will. I'm surprised the connectors are still available. I just repaired the E4 error for my air compressor. Every one of the leads mentioned in the repair listed on here was seperated. I resoldered them and, voila, it now works fine. Cool! I've never had a onboard compressor so this is pretty neat to me. The plasic around it has some cracks so I'm going to repair it tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwox Posted October 23, 2013 Author Share #37 Posted October 23, 2013 Thanks to Dingy for sending my the set of three gears just to be sure I have a good set to put on the bike when I put it back together!!!! I got the flywheel off(that sucker is really on there just like you said!!)and found that the 72 tooth gear has some chipped teeth, about 5, but the starter clutch looks pretty good. I'm still going to have the "Dano" mod done(he still does that I hope)when I scratch up some more $$. It sounds like that takes care of the broken 72 tooth gear too. I have the sidecover gaskets on the way as well. No matter how cold it is here in Minnesota, I'm going to try out the venture when I get it going! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squidley Posted October 24, 2013 Share #38 Posted October 24, 2013 If your going to need a 72 tooth gear to install before you do the Dano starter clutch, I have a good one here I can send to you. Dano's starter mod comes with a new 72 tooth gear, but it's a little different than stock and wont work with the stock starter clutch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dano Posted October 26, 2013 Share #39 Posted October 26, 2013 Just PM me when you want to get it done, takes about a week to get the parts in. But, if you let me know a week before hand, let's say, they'll be here ready to go when your rotor arrives..... $325 is what is needed for the job, just so you've got something to head for..... LAST time you'll have to do this. The mod was made by a buddy for a guy who had bored out his VMax from 1300 to 1700 cc's, burnt out three of these starter clutches a year till Squeeze came up with the mod 4 years ago and it STILL works in the 1700! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
syscrusher Posted October 26, 2013 Share #40 Posted October 26, 2013 Nice looking bike! It looks like it has a fold-up floorboard mounted ahead of the engine guard. If that's right I wondered if you could post a clear pic or two of that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted October 26, 2013 Share #41 Posted October 26, 2013 Thanks to Dingy for sending my the set of three gears just to be sure I have a good set to put on the bike when I put it back together!!!! I got the flywheel off(that sucker is really on there just like you said!!)and found that the 72 tooth gear has some chipped teeth, about 5, but the starter clutch looks pretty good. I'm still going to have the "Dano" mod done(he still does that I hope)when I scratch up some more $$. It sounds like that takes care of the broken 72 tooth gear too. I have the sidecover gaskets on the way as well. No matter how cold it is here in Minnesota, I'm going to try out the venture when I get it going! Have you got a replacement 72 gear sprocket yet? Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squidley Posted October 26, 2013 Share #42 Posted October 26, 2013 Have you got a replacement 72 gear sprocket yet? I just sent him a good spare one I had Gary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwox Posted October 27, 2013 Author Share #43 Posted October 27, 2013 I'll take pictures of it tomorrow. I'm at work now from 7pm to 3am. I like to turn the footboards so I can stretch out and rest my legs on them without discomfort. I did that on the goldwing, that I traded for this, on my 2800 mile trip out west and it worked terrific. The bottoms of my feet can sit on the edge a lot easier than my calf. I looking forward to getting the gear squidley. I just have to get the parts together, including the slave cylinder, and I'll put it together. The Dano mod will have to wait for now since my starter clutch plate is good. It looks like my stator is good too so I'm getting very lucky! I suppose I should get back to work... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwox Posted October 27, 2013 Author Share #44 Posted October 27, 2013 Here's a picture of my floorboard. I adjusted it better than it was when I got it. I've never seen floorboards for the passenger that slide up and down where ever they need to be. I still have the stock ones, but I also have another set for kids or shorter adults. Pretty cool. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prairiehammer Posted October 27, 2013 Share #45 Posted October 27, 2013 I've got those same rider's floorboards from Markland on my '91. As for the passenger auxiliary foot rests; sounds like they may be those made by Kriss. Called Starsteps. Do the passenger boards look like this: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwox Posted October 28, 2013 Author Share #46 Posted October 28, 2013 Yep, those are the ones I have. They might come in handy for my vertically challenged wife. I've never seen them before. Sent from my SCH-R930 using Tapatalk 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwox Posted November 3, 2013 Author Share #47 Posted November 3, 2013 It runs!!! I took the starter out and refreshed it, rebuilt the slave cylinder, and put everything together. I changed the oil and it fired right up! I only ran it about 10 seconds because I didn't have the radiator filled but it ran good. I removed the stator wire ends and spliced them temporarily with connectors and I got 13.25 volts. Is that enough voltage or does it need to be 14, or so, to be good? I also have to repair the radiator. When I put antifreeze in I got a leak by the center bottom. We have a good radiator man in town so I can fix it tomorrow. Things are going good! A HUGE thanks to "Dingy" and "Squidley" for the replacement gears and I really appreciate all the advice given from other members! I have lots to do this winter so I'm ready to hit the road with some long distance rides next year. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiCarl Posted November 3, 2013 Share #48 Posted November 3, 2013 At idle, 13.25 is a good sign. It should be 14+ at 3K rpm, but never above 15v. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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