fng985 Posted September 5, 2013 Share #1 Posted September 5, 2013 new to me 1983 Yamaha venture. Well I put in a new fuse block and all was well until......I found a black wire hanging down by the lower part of engine. Dummy me I just ASSUMED it was a ground then I blew a fuse....ugh well after I finally figured out it was a spliced in power wire for some marker lights I hooked it up the right way. So then I noticed the computer display thing is not working at all, I mean nothing, so what the crap did I do now. I have power to all fuse sides and what not. I unplugged the display and it had some power going to some of the wires with the key on (not sure which ones I shall check). anybody have a clue what I did? Did I fry it somehow. O I don't think headlight is working either but not sure on that part I didn't try to start it just nothing by turning key on only. Ok well that's enough wind for now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frankd Posted September 5, 2013 Share #2 Posted September 5, 2013 (edited) Seeing that the headlight isn't working, I'd guess that there isn't power going through the headlight fuse. Make sure you have a good fuse installed, and if it's not a blown fuse, look for what you mis-wired. The headlight fuse is the one with a red with yellow stripe (R/Y) on one side and a brown (BR) on the other. The BR is the hot side (when the key is on) and the R/Y goes to the headlight circuit. If you have power on both sides of this fuse, you'll have to measure the voltages listed on page 7-25 of the service manual. The BR wire goes to the monitor also, and the monitor should power up whenever BR becomes energized. Make sure you have 12V on the BR wire on the monitor when the key is ON. I just re-read your post. The headlight will not work with the monitor unplugged, or did you have the monitor plugged in and the headlight didn't work. Frank D. Edited September 5, 2013 by frankd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcarl Posted September 5, 2013 Share #3 Posted September 5, 2013 Check to make sure that all the connectors to the fuse panel are tight, give them a tug, if they let go, then good, you know where there is a problem. If you did fry the CPU, don't fret too hard, take it apart and maybe you can see where it fried and let the smoke out. Sometimes it can be fixed with a little careful soldering, mines been repaired twice already,,,, turns out that a 25amp fuse doesn't do much good in a 5 amp circuit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fng985 Posted September 5, 2013 Author Share #4 Posted September 5, 2013 ok i will check out the connections again, i tried the headlight with and without the computer plugged in, not sure if it matters but before all this the bike will not start with the button the solenoid just clicks and i have to jump across it to start the bike. (i just leave pair needle nose on bike ha). i think i landed in a hot mess with "all it needs is a battery" does run good other wise. i ordered the parts to fix the no 4th or 5th gear part. That was in a differant post. there is a wierd wire with a diode attached to it laying by the battery. Going by the wirring diagram i think it is for some type of battery water level indication maybe? . Im not sure what elselights should be on with just the key but the front marker/blinkers, tail light, brake light all work. I have a new battery (maintaince free kind) the back marker lights (in the blinkers) dont come on if they are supose to. I read the post under the 1st generation display repair that was very informational. I shall try that job. Has anybody used a cold solider (sp) gun on one or just hot? thanks for any help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trader Posted September 5, 2013 Share #5 Posted September 5, 2013 there is a wierd wire with a diode attached to it laying by the battery. Going by the wirring diagram i think it is for some type of battery water level indication maybe? . You are correct in that it is a battery acid level probe that will alarm on your CMU with both the red light and a battery icon. A lot of folks run batteries with no acid (what are they called again?) The "diode" is probably a 1 or 2 amp resister , which tricks the system into thinking the probe is working and all is good with the acid level. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fng985 Posted September 5, 2013 Author Share #6 Posted September 5, 2013 You are correct in that it is a battery acid level probe that will alarm on your CMU with both the red light and a battery icon. A lot of folks run batteries with no acid (what are they called again?) The "diode" is probably a 1 or 2 amp resister , which tricks the system into thinking the probe is working and all is good with the acid level. sweet thanks for the info i will put another one in there(i broke that one somehow) I will pull the diplayout tnt to see where i let the smoke out:whistling: hope its not too bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted September 5, 2013 Share #7 Posted September 5, 2013 First, I do not recommend using a "cold solder" type gun on any electronics. they work by passing current through the joint so the joint gets hot. This current can follow the wires to other places and cause problems if its voltage is higher than what the circuit was designed for or if it ends up being a reverse polarity on something polarity sensitive. There is a wire that goes to a fluid sensor in the stock battery, there is a common fix of adding a resistor to that wire and connecting the resistor to AUX power to turn off the "Battery Fluid Low" warning light in the CMU. If yours has a diode it is not done right and could fry the CMU. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fng985 Posted September 5, 2013 Author Share #8 Posted September 5, 2013 wew glad you said something about the cold solder never looked into that part. second yea the wire, i think W/R has a clear plastic tube with a diode in it (well i guess im calling it right has lil colored porcilen looking thing with thin wire on each end) then at end of wire looks like a single plug that would plug into a hole ,think it was red plastic piece at a 90 and metal tit sticking out the end. so should i just leave that wire alone and live with the battery light? O and if i did happen to fry the cms where can i get another one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted September 5, 2013 Share #9 Posted September 5, 2013 A diode will usually (certainally not always) be black with a silver band at one end. A resistor will be usually tan to brown or blue with 4 or 5 colored strips around it. What are the colors of the stripes around your part, A good pic would help here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icebrrg3rd Posted September 5, 2013 Share #10 Posted September 5, 2013 Lucky for you (not) it is a one-year special, meaning they only came on the '83. '84 and up ones had a different setup and different plugs. So you need to find one from an '83. However, I have 2 spares, one which keeps having headlight issues (dim low beam + headlight warning light + white headlight dash light on) even tho I have resoldered it twice, and one from my spare bike that I have not tested nor do I know if it even works. I could always test the spare bike one, I would just have to pull apart my dash. -Andrew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DragonRider Posted September 5, 2013 Share #11 Posted September 5, 2013 I have a spare for an 83, that was sent to me by Yammer Dan, I tried to give it back to him but he said pass it on. If you need it, cover the shipping and its yours, and it looks brand new. I tested it on my 83 and it does work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fng985 Posted September 5, 2013 Author Share #12 Posted September 5, 2013 (edited) sweet Its like you guys already knew i have 2 exwives and no money. i will take it (DragonRider) because im sure mine was probably fried with me touching wire to things i wasnt supose to because it dosent light up at all. how do I pay you and all that? Thanks for help/offer Icebrrg3rd also. Also I will take a pic of the wire when i get home but the way it was described it i think it is a resistor i think it was tan with rings around the thing. Now that you mention the diode colors/looks I have seen those and its not like that so i reckon it is a resistor. This forum is awsome and WELL worth the money. Its nice to see people out there still willing to help each other. People with Ventures would be crazy not to join. Cant wait to start ridding again. Edited September 5, 2013 by fng985 corrections Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DragonRider Posted September 5, 2013 Share #13 Posted September 5, 2013 Your right about the helpful members, I have been helped numerous times and it has saved me a bundle of money, hell if it wasnt for the members here I probably wouldn't be riding a Venture right now. 12 bucks a year is cheap for what we get in help, info and just plain good fun and great friends and family, I have been a member since 2005, and they couldnt drive me away if they tried. So, Chirs welcome to our family. sweet Its like you guys already knew i have 2 exwives and no money. i will take it (DragonRider) because im sure mine was probably fried with me touching wire to things i wasnt supose to because it dosent light up at all. how do I pay you and all that? Thanks for help/offer Icebrrg3rd also. Also I will take a pic of the wire when i get home but the way it was described it i think it is a resistor i think it was tan with rings around the thing. Now that you mention the diode colors/looks I have seen those and its not like that so i reckon it is a resistor. This forum is awsome and WELL worth the money. Its nice to see people out there still willing to help each other. People with Ventures would be crazy not to join. Cant wait to start ridding again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fng985 Posted September 6, 2013 Author Share #14 Posted September 6, 2013 Thanks to DragonRider cmu is on the way, is it just me or have i called this thing several differant initials anyway heres a pic of the "resistor" um maybe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted September 6, 2013 Share #15 Posted September 6, 2013 That sure looks like a resistor. Can you make out the colors of the stripes? I can not make them out from the pic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bongobobny Posted September 6, 2013 Share #16 Posted September 6, 2013 Yes it is a resistor, it is stock. The other end goes to the probe that goes into the battery. From what I remember it is a low value. You want to connect one end of the yellow wire to a resistor with a value of somewhere between 1000 and 2000 ohms and the other end of the resistor goes to 12 volts. Do not connect the yellow line directly to 12 volts as that will burn out the circuitry for the warning light. The circuit is looking for a logic level of 5 volts. The 1000 ohm resistor acts as a voltage divider to give the yellow wire that voltage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fng985 Posted September 7, 2013 Author Share #17 Posted September 7, 2013 Yes it is a resistor, it is stock. The other end goes to the probe that goes into the battery. From what I remember it is a low value. You want to connect one end of the yellow wire to a resistor with a value of somewhere between 1000 and 2000 ohms and the other end of the resistor goes to 12 volts. Do not connect the yellow line directly to 12 volts as that will burn out the circuitry for the warning light. The circuit is looking for a logic level of 5 volts. The 1000 ohm resistor acts as a voltage divider to give the yellow wire that voltage. Weeelllllll I might have tried hooking the one end to + side of battery before I signed up on this forum. That bein said that's probably why the resistor is um fried. Did that contribute to my monitor system going out? O and colors are blue,grey,brown,gold (I think) also the headlight won't work at all without display unless I jump around it correct? Thanks for all the help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted September 7, 2013 Share #18 Posted September 7, 2013 Weeelllllll I might have tried hooking the one end to + side of battery before I signed up on this forum. That bein said that's probably why the resistor is um fried. Did that contribute to my monitor system going out? O and colors are blue,grey,brown,gold (I think) also the headlight won't work at all without display unless I jump around it correct? Thanks for all the help Hooking that wire to 12V without the resistor will fry a CMU everytime. Thread shows jumpers for MKI bike in it. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=68851 Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fng985 Posted September 8, 2013 Author Share #19 Posted September 8, 2013 Hooking that wire to 12V without the resistor will fry a CMU everytime. Thread shows jumpers for MKI bike in it. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=68851 Gary OK then I didn't fry it with that because it had the resister in there but the wire on end of resister is bad. So must of been the other stuff. Hopefully the headlight works when iI get the new/old CMU. If not I reckon I will be asking more questions. Maybe my start button might work too (that might be the solenoid though, it clicks when I hit the button but that's all, so I just jump it with needle nose right now) Now I wait on the USPS . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fng985 Posted September 10, 2013 Author Share #20 Posted September 10, 2013 Ok got the CMU from DragonRider (thanks again) plugged it in and looks light its all working (except battery light) but still no headlight. The solenoid just clicks to (it always did that maybe its bad? I just use pliers to jump around it and start bike) Whats the deal with headlight though? ugh I looked at the wiring diagram does the cut out relay go bed easy. I will take headlight out tonight make sure it didn't just go bad. I also read cleaning starter switch might help so I will try that also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted September 10, 2013 Share #21 Posted September 10, 2013 Weeelllllll I might have tried hooking the one end to + side of battery before I signed up on this forum. That bein said that's probably why the resistor is um fried. Did that contribute to my monitor system going out? O and colors are blue,grey,brown,gold (I think) also the headlight won't work at all without display unless I jump around it correct? Thanks for all the help If you are jumping around CMU panel & headlights work, then you have an issue inside the CMU panel. Jumping externally around the CMU should correct the headlight problem, but it will then give you the flashing warning light. Warning light can be bypassed by installing jumpers referenced in post #18. This jumpers only corrects the warning light issue, it does not address the root cause of the open circuit inside the panel or connectors leading into CMU. You do not need to jumper the brake light or running lights at this point. Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fng985 Posted September 12, 2013 Author Share #22 Posted September 12, 2013 (edited) ok update , i took headlight out and there was a red wire with a inline fuse that was blown. It was hooked inline with a black wire (not factory?) i replaced the fuse and headlight works well high beam at least i think low beam blew out i shall see. Only thing on display is battery (with the warning light), so thats exciting. The starter part dont work still but working on that part. the fan dosent seem to come on not sure how hot supose to be before it starts. i did switch the i believe fuel pump relay and fan relay and fan came on with key so maybe the fan relay is bad or the thermo switch? not sure yet just checking see if fan worked. So i reckon i have more to trace down....to be continued..... Edited September 12, 2013 by fng985 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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