venture83_98 Posted August 17, 2013 Share #1 Posted August 17, 2013 Been wondering... My 86 Royale has aluminum tubes between the intake boots. There is one between cylinders 1 & 2, and also one between 3 &4. Never seen this before or seen any mention of it on here. Anybody have any ideas? Is it a California model? Canada? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squidley Posted August 17, 2013 Share #2 Posted August 17, 2013 I have never seen a set of them on any 1st gen, I have owned 7 of them. Now were both befuddled Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mralex714 Posted August 17, 2013 Share #3 Posted August 17, 2013 Been wondering... My 86 Royale has aluminum tubes between the intake boots. There is one between cylinders 1 & 2, and also one between 3 &4. Never seen this before or seen any mention of it on here. Anybody have any ideas? Is it a California model? Canada? Looks like the Jason mod taken to the next level. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=501 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
venture83_98 Posted August 17, 2013 Author Share #4 Posted August 17, 2013 Looks like the Jason mod taken to the next level. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=501 I was thinking that too.....This is my 3rd first gen, probably about the 15th bike in my lifetime and I have not seen anything like it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
friesman Posted August 18, 2013 Share #5 Posted August 18, 2013 Been wondering... My 86 Royale has aluminum tubes between the intake boots. There is one between cylinders 1 & 2, and also one between 3 &4. Never seen this before or seen any mention of it on here. Anybody have any ideas? Is it a California model? Canada? Congrats!!!! I think you have just stumped the experts! brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KIC Posted August 18, 2013 Share #6 Posted August 18, 2013 How are they held in place ? Could it be some type of "mod" that would help warm the air intake faster in extreme cold weather ? Interesting.....verrrryy Interesting... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
venture83_98 Posted August 18, 2013 Author Share #7 Posted August 18, 2013 How are they held in place ? Could it be some type of "mod" that would help warm the air intake faster in extreme cold weather ? Interesting.....verrrryy Interesting... They are just slid into holes in the boots. They do turn by hand, but from what i recall seeing while the carbs were off, they look like they were made this way, not modified. I will check tomorrow when I pull the carbs off (again). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Venturous Randy Posted August 18, 2013 Share #8 Posted August 18, 2013 Poor man's V-Boost that someone has installed? How does the bike run between 5,000 and 8,000 RPM's? RandyA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
venture83_98 Posted August 18, 2013 Author Share #9 Posted August 18, 2013 Poor man's V-Boost that someone has installed? How does the bike run between 5,000 and 8,000 RPM's? RandyA Don't know yet. Been trying to get the carbs synched, but am having trouble with the idle being too high and not adjusting. I think i have a linkage problem somewhere keeping the carbs from closing all the way. Hopefully i will get it figured out in the morning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IronMike Posted August 18, 2013 Share #10 Posted August 18, 2013 I think the man is right, Jason MOD taken to the proper level, you would need that much flow between the cylinders to make it effective. Someone probably realized that, had the insight to make it happen. Humm, yea, How would you sync? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michel Posted August 18, 2013 Share #11 Posted August 18, 2013 It' s a strange " construction " if you want something who run well, take pipes and v boost of a v max. http://img15.hostingpics.net/thumbs/mini_2892401003755.jpg Michel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiCarl Posted August 18, 2013 Share #12 Posted August 18, 2013 Don't know yet. Been trying to get the carbs synched, but am having trouble with the idle being too high and not adjusting. I think i have a linkage problem somewhere keeping the carbs from closing all the way. Hopefully i will get it figured out in the morning. If those tubes turn by hand they are also probably leaking. The air leak will make it difficult to set a proper idle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Venturous Randy Posted August 18, 2013 Share #13 Posted August 18, 2013 If those tubes turn by hand they are also probably leaking. The air leak will make it difficult to set a proper idle. You beat me Carl, I was just about to say the same thing. RandyA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted August 18, 2013 Share #14 Posted August 18, 2013 I slept to late. I was going to suggest a home made v-boost. And as soon as you said you can turn the tube, the very first thing that popped into my head was air leak. I guess no worms for me today........ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Huggy Posted August 18, 2013 Share #15 Posted August 18, 2013 Ya me to!!!! What they said!!!!!! If they turn definitely air leak, no way they will sync. Try sealing them with RTV so they cannot leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squidley Posted August 18, 2013 Share #16 Posted August 18, 2013 If you can't get it to sync and you want a different set of intake manifolds I have an '85 parts bike with a set on them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
friesman Posted August 18, 2013 Share #17 Posted August 18, 2013 (edited) heres some info sent to me by Neil McRobbie , (a member on the venturer site) about this manifold. It sounds like a Tugg manifold, built by an owner to make use of VMAX parts. Brian From the Venturer site, I couldn't make the link work properly. Carburetor Air Velocity Maintenance of carburetor air velocity is everything to drivability. It is the air velocity across the venturi of the carb that creates the vacuum that sucks the fuel into the air stream. An inordinate drop in air velocity drops the vacuum and less fuel gets into the air. This causes a big flat spot or bog. Those who can remember the old days before the CV carburetor we had carburetors whose slides opened with the throttle. Snap the throttle open at low speed, and the motor would almost quit. You quickly learned to modulate the throttle. A CV carb does this for us. The CV carbs are carefully balanced by the manufacturer to fit the loading and air velocity requirements of the motor with stock airbox restrictions. Open up the intake and the now unrestricted air does not seem to generate the velocity required to suck the correct amount of fuel into the air stream. I think that it lifts the carb slide too soon. Some time ago a guy in Arizona named "Tugs" was producing a hop-up kit for Ventures which consisted of essentially a V-Max-like intake manifold. As part of Tugs kit, he recommended stretching the stock carb diaphragm spring from its usual height of about 6.75" to almost 8". What this does is to force the slide to remain lowered until a higher vacuum was generated at higher motor speeds. He coupled this with a much richer slide needle so that when the slide did lift, there was additional fuel available. By this means, he operated the carb largely on the pilot jet circuit for cruise, but had much more power available for acceleration. I have a Max intake and heads, cams and all on my 1300 Venture, using Tugs suggestions and a low restriction intake. I can tell you that there are no flat spots whatsoever, even running with an open air box. I am not suggesting that this is a simple modification to engineer or tune correctly. It is one thing to just stretch a slide spring, but getting the needle jet correct is like dancing with the devil. Rey Kirkman Edited August 18, 2013 by friesman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
venture83_98 Posted August 19, 2013 Author Share #18 Posted August 19, 2013 heres some info sent to me by Neil McRobbie , (a member on the venturer site) about this manifold. It sounds like a Tugg manifold, built by an owner to make use of VMAX parts. I read the article you linked. Here are some pics of what I have. Now I am wondering if I should be checking if the cams were changed. Are the valve clearances different than Venture cams? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GaryZ Posted August 21, 2013 Share #19 Posted August 21, 2013 Definitely looks like a home made V-Boost set-up. A comment on a Vmax forum says that some guys have the V-boost always engaged for better performance. However, the carbs cannot be synched. Combine this with air leaks and I think we have all of the symptoms listed . . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yammer Dan Posted August 21, 2013 Share #20 Posted August 21, 2013 A machine is not necessary to sync carbs.....I've had thought of doing something like this but never claimed to be normal....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted August 21, 2013 Share #21 Posted August 21, 2013 Definitely looks like a home made V-Boost set-up. A comment on a Vmax forum says that some guys have the V-boost always engaged for better performance. However, the carbs cannot be synched. Combine this with air leaks and I think we have all of the symptoms listed . . . This is the homemade version of a VMax stage 7 vboost. V-boost normally comes with a 5th & 6th butterfly between the right pair & left pair of carbs. These two butterflies are controlled by a module that has an input from #2 coil, so it can determine RPM's. When motor reaches 5,750 RPM's, a servo motor located under coil rack, opens the butterflies. This then ties #1 & #2 carbs (right pair) together and #3 & #4 (left pair) carbs together. The result is to double the available air/fuel mixture to each carb. The carb pairs are on opposing intake/exhaust strokes, so only 1 cylinder is drawing air through each pair of carbs at any point in time. The stage 7 kit eliminates the servo motor & butterflies with a straight connection. The VMax intake boots are different than a Venture, VMax has an extra port, the same approximate size as the carb boot port in the casting. This port faces the adjacent intake port. The use of VMax intakes is complicated on a Venture as the VMax intakes are about 3/4" taller than Ventures. This raises carbs & air box up by 3/4". The #1 (left rear) carb then has an interference with the top frame rail when installing or removing carbs from motor. It is doable, but a PIA. Synching the carbs is much harder on a standard V-boost as there are now 2 more butterflies to contend with, neither of which can be easily reached, due to adjustment screw is at center line of motor, parallel mid line of bike front to rear. Synching a stage 7 equipped motor is generally regarded as next to impossible, due to carbs paired together "permanently". Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
venture83_98 Posted August 21, 2013 Author Share #22 Posted August 21, 2013 This is the homemade version of a VMax stage 7 vboost. Would that explain the mercury in my carb sticks going straight to the top of the tubes, no matter how slow i can get it to idle? I guess I will experiment some with it, and see what I can do. At least until I can replace the intakes, needles, probably some of the jets.. I will spend a little extra time with a bench sync, since thats all I can get. Dingy- would I need a new map inthe ignitech to account for the higher flow? I removed the stock TCI. Unless someone is interested in them...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted August 23, 2013 Share #23 Posted August 23, 2013 Would that explain the mercury in my carb sticks going straight to the top of the tubes, no matter how slow i can get it to idle? I guess I will experiment some with it, and see what I can do. At least until I can replace the intakes, needles, probably some of the jets.. I will spend a little extra time with a bench sync, since thats all I can get. Dingy- would I need a new map inthe ignitech to account for the higher flow? I removed the stock TCI. Unless someone is interested in them...... TCI program is probably very close. But I don't know of any in use with a stage 7 kit. Your gas mileage will not be good with this setup. Do you have Venture or VMax heads? Picture of my motor shows VMax heads. If you don't have these heads or at a minimum VMax cams, you are wasting gas for little gain with this stage 7 setup. Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
venture83_98 Posted August 24, 2013 Author Share #24 Posted August 24, 2013 Do you have Venture or VMax heads?. Gary Looks like I have the Venture heads, judging from the picture. Is there an easy way to tell if the cams have been changed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now