Another way to mod the HF Tag-A-Long tongue

[Snaggletooth]

Ok, It's 3:00 AM and I haven't gone out to the garage to measure the ID of the tongue tubing on the Tag-a-Long. I know the OD is 2 3/8". I've been tossing around the idea of the longer tongue and ran across something that hadn't come to mind yet.

 

Anybody else done a tongue mod this way?

 

Instead of welding onto, or replacing the entire tongue with a longer section of tubing the idea of using a 2x2" OD tube to slip inside the original tongue, much like a reciever hitch, using the original receiver mounting holes to secure it in place and add the desired length.

 

All that would be needed is a new receiver to fit the smaller tubing and to add to the length of the wiring harness.

 

Seems quite simple.

 

Any thoughts?

 

I've got an old co-worker putting together the angle iron needed for the frame of a cooler hitch like the one in the pic.

Edited March 24, 2013 by Snaggletooth

[Mike G in SC]

Mike,

Seems like instead of, say, a 2' extension of 2",, do 1' or 1.5 of 2", then another piece of 2 3/8" at the end for the original hitch. Just an extension piece for the tongue (?).

[Flyinfool]

That should work fine as a no welding way to do it.

 

I like that cooler rack, I'm gonna steal the design for mine.......

[Snaggletooth]

Mike,

Seems like instead of, say, a 2' extension of 2",, do 1' or 1.5 of 2", then another piece of 2 3/8" at the end for the original hitch. Just an extension piece for the tongue (?).

 

I was planning on getting a new ball receiver anyway. The one on the trailer was crushed a bit by the PO when he installed it. Guess he didn't know the washer trick.

 

That should work fine as a no welding way to do it.

 

I like that cooler rack, I'm gonna steal the design for mine.......

 

Hey Jeff. I need to get the frame off the storage rack and get a good measure on the ID of the HF tongue tubing. If the 2x2 tube will fit inside well enough it should work fine. One less connection anyway. A single tube tongue won't work as I stand it on end on a rack for winter storage and cutting out the rafters didn't seem like a bright idea. This way I can either remove the 2x2 or maybe slide it down inside for winter storage.

 

I ran cross the carrier on a web page I found. Like the simple design and it looks tough enough to handle a loaded cooler.

 

Mike

[AngryAmish]

Ok, It's 3:00 AM and I haven't gone out to the garage to measure the ID of the tongue tubing on the Tag-a-Long. I know the OD is 2 3/8". I've been tossing around the idea of the longer tongue and ran across something that hadn't come to mind yet.

 

Anybody else done a tongue mod this way?

 

Instead of welding onto, or replacing the entire tongue with a longer section of tubing the idea of using a 2x2" OD tube to slip inside the original tongue, much like a reciever hitch, using the original receiver mounting holes to secure it in place and add the desired length.

 

All that would be needed is a new receiver to fit the smaller tubing and to add to the length of the wiring harness.

 

Seems quite simple.

 

Any thoughts?

 

I've got an old co-worker putting together the angle iron needed for the frame of a cooler hitch like the one in the pic.

 

May I ask why a 'longer' tongue ?

[Flyinfool]

May I ask why a 'longer' tongue ?

 

The stock tongue is a little short. Too short of a tongue will cause sway at higher speeds.

There are a few that have had no sway issues, but most have stretched the tongue for better handling.

Edited March 24, 2013 by Flyinfool

[campfire12]

Been useing same length toung thetrailor came with and haveno problems at any speed.Don't want want to try and fix whats not broke.Just my thought.

[Snaggletooth]

May I ask why a 'longer' tongue ?

 

Plus the issue that the HF Tag-a-Long is built with the axle well back on the frame. When aiming for the goal of 20-25 lbs hitch tongue weight it increases pretty quickly with a full load in the trailer plus adding on the weight of a loaded cooler in front of the body.

 

It all affects the handling at speed.

[Flyinfool]

Hey Jeff. I need to get the frame off the storage rack and get a good measure on the ID of the HF tongue tubing. If the 2x2 tube will fit inside well enough it should work fine. One less connection anyway. A single tube tongue won't work as I stand it on end on a rack for winter storage and cutting out the rafters didn't seem like a bright idea. This way I can either remove the 2x2 or maybe slide it down inside for winter storage.

 

I ran cross the carrier on a web page I found. Like the simple design and it looks tough enough to handle a loaded cooler.

 

Mike

 

I have a plan.......

It is all 1.5 x 1/8 Aluminum angle and aluminum expanded metal floor.

Approx weight will be 4 lbs.

[XV1100SE]

I have a plan.......

It is all 1.5 x 1/8 Aluminum angle and aluminum expanded metal floor.

Approx weight will be 4 lbs.

 

Isn't so much the weight of the cooler rack but the weight of the cooler with water/food in it.

 

I've seen a of posts where people say the tongue is too short on the cargo trailer. This is the flatbed trailer that does not come with a cargo box. People narrow the trailer, buy a car roof carrier, and lengthen the tongue.

http://www.harborfreight.com/870-lb-capacity-40-inch-x-49-inch-heavy-duty-utility-trailer-with-8-inch-wheels-and-tires-42708.html

 

I have a Tag Along and other than the box not being far enough back to be able to move cargo around to adjust the tongue weight, the tongue length on this trailer doesn't seem to be an issue. I know there is a calculation for wheel to wheel distance vs tongue length (I'll take the measurement this afternoon). I don't have any sway but have had issues with tongue weight with the cooler mounted.

http://www.harborfreight.com/600-lb-capacity-78-inch-tag-along-trailer-66771.html

[dacheedah]

I replaced the entire thing with 2" sq tubing and replaced with a coupler manufactured for the 2". But you can also find the same dimension tubing but i found it was more $

[robclark63]

Not to change topics but they are on sale for 409 and there is a 20% coupon that you can find on line and my store said they would honor the coupon...That is a pretty good deal!!

[AngryAmish]

$409 ..... 20% ....... $327 !!

[Snaggletooth]

I have a plan.......

It is all 1.5 x 1/8 Aluminum angle and aluminum expanded metal floor.

Approx weight will be 4 lbs.

 

And there ya go. Fancy plans for the scraps of angle iron I've been saving up. Nice Jeff.

[XV1100SE]

I've got an old co-worker putting together the angle iron needed for the frame of a cooler hitch like the one in the pic.

 

One of my neighbours welded up a rack for me. To fasten bungie cords to it he welded on nuts.

[XV1100SE]

Think I have a way to move the cargo box back about 4 1/4" towards the rear. Moving the cargo box back I measured how far I could go and have the front of the box even with the front part of the frame. Welding a couple L brackets in the new locations would allow me better adjustment on the tongue weight.

 

BTW.... center to center on the wheels is 37 1/2". Center of ball to axle is 58". Per previous posts the tongue should be 1 1/2 times the wheel width... and the Tag Along meets this (slightly more)

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showpost.php?p=478634&postcount=5

Edited March 24, 2013 by XV1100SE

[Mike G in SC]

I have a plan.......

It is all 1.5 x 1/8 Aluminum angle and aluminum expanded metal floor.

Approx weight will be 4 lbs.

 

That would also make a nice receiver cooler rack.

I got one from Rivco and built a light mount for it.

It carries our Kuryakyn tour bag,,, or a cooler(?).

 

[dacheedah]

another thought is to get a piece that will slide over your tongue and pin it in place, when you want to park in the garage you could slide the hitch back in to make it shorter.

[djh3]

I almost hate to say this, but that was what I was thinking all the time when I was reading about extending the tounge on these. I figured slip a new length of either square or you could use "C" channel flipped up side down and bolt it together. Might need spacers on inside if using channel to keep from distoring it but double bolt on both ends and I would think its good to go. I have been looking from time to time on my local CL. Boy do I get alot of trash to sort thru when looking for "motorcycle trailer". Most time not really what I'm looking for. Its the ones you use when its broken that show up.

[saddlebum]

Instead of welding onto, or replacing the entire tongue with a longer section of tubing the idea of using a 2x2" OD tube to slip inside the original tongue, much like a reciever hitch, using the original receiver mounting holes to secure it in place and add the desired length.

.

Instead of using bolts to secure the extension piece. Why not make sure it slides in and out about 6-8" freely without being sloppy and use a couple lynch or clevis pins instead. This way you could compact it quickly and easily for storage.

[Snaggletooth]

Instead of using bolts to secure the extension piece. Why not make sure it slides in and out about 6-8" freely without being sloppy and use a couple lynch or clevis pins instead. This way you could compact it quickly and easily for storage.

 

Using the exisiting holes in the original frame matched to the new 2x2 section that would work well with bolts or pins. The pins would be great for weekend use and then back to "On the End" storage in the garage. Quick and easy. Good idea.

 

I am some what limited on space with a one car garage with a '95 Lincoln (bigun), the '84 Venture and the Tag-A-Long all in there at once. I built a wooden stand against the rear wall where I can back the trailer up to it under the frame and stand the trailer up against the the wall. Any longer tongue and it hits the rafters. (hence the sliding extention idea). The bikes sits to the right side with a 1 1/2" pad under the side stand to hold it almost level. Plenty of room for the car to pull in (and still be able to get out).

 

I build a 8' x 2 1/2' work bench on hinges that folds up against tbe right wall behind the bike.

 

I try to utilize the storage and work space I have to the max.

 

The work space I built in the basement has more room than the garage. To bad I can't get the bike down there.

Edited March 25, 2013 by Snaggletooth

[Flyinfool]

 

The work space I built in the basement has more room than the garage. To bad I can't get the bike down there.

 

Down is the easy part...........

 

But now that you mention it, maybe next winter I can bring the bike into the basement to tear it down for a repaint.

The bike weighs a lot less than any of the machines I have down there.....

[djh3]

Jeff if the Gen one has as much power as you all claim getting it back up the staisrs should be much of a feat. A couple planks and let'er eat.

[Snaggletooth]

Jeff if the Gen one has as much power as you all claim getting it back up the staisrs should be much of a feat. A couple planks and let'er eat.

 

One of my old crowd tried that with a 900 Kaw. I took it apart and carried it a piece at a time down his basement stairs and spent the winter rebuilding it. He had plenty of time and ended up putting it all back together ........ In the basement. Even ran and tuned it down there.

 

When spring came around he didn't want to take it all apart and carry it back out. He tried to ride it up the the stairs. Almost made it.

 

That was about the time his wife called me to come over and help him get the bike picked up and out of the way. I missed all the fun. Would I have stopped him from trying? I don't know. Would have been interesting to watch.

[Flyinfool]

The riding it up is not the hard part, it is the two 90° turns on the way up. No one ever said a 1st gen handled good in tight slow quarters.

 

But where there is a will there is a way.

 

Dang it anyhow, Now you got me thinking on this one.