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well i cant get any air to build up. pump clicks but has no output. this bike has sat for a few years. the motor should run not click. so would this be the pressure switch turning it off. and could i disconnect the switch and run compressor. or is the system smarter than i think.:confused24:

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well i jumped the compressor found inlet hose was plugged with mud. then i cleaned the splice at center of bike left side. took control off of bike and plugged back in. works when it wants and makes the speakers crackle even when radio is off. took back off control. re soldered the terminals the wire plugs into. and where the jumper wire leads off board to front. it likes to set codes e2 and e4 then restarts itself its like the terminals wont conduct continuous power.:confused07:

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Know what? I read too fast and thought you were talking about Cruise compressor.

 

E4 code is often set by cracked solder joints where the connector socked is soldered to the CLASS board. You might open that up and resolder them before doing anything else.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have never put bike on center stand to choose an air setting.

 

Does this hurt it, not much.

 

If the compressor can pump to a setting of 60psi on center stand, I don't see it being hurt any by pumping 60psi on side stand. There will be a relative difference between the two seemingly same 60psi settings though. When the bike is taken off the center stand, the overall pressure in the shock will increase due to the added mass now pressing down on the shock.

 

This to me means if you want a very stiff ride, a higher PSI setting could be obtained with bike on center stand. If you want a softer ride, then experiment & find your happy number, just keep in mind that this number will change between center & side stand configurations.

 

Gary

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It is easy to get it up on the center stand once you know how. It is easy to learn but until you do it seems impossible. Or at least I thought so.

 

Here's how I do it now. With the bike on its side stand and wheel straight ahead, I push down the center stand with my right foot until it touches the ground. I have my left hand on the handle bar and my right hand on the rear seat hand grip. Then I straighten the bike up until the other leg of the center stand touches the ground. It is easy to tell. The next part is easy to do but hard to explain. I push down with my foot on the center stand to use leverage to raise the bike. I tug on the hand grip, not to lift the bike but to help me push against the center stand. The bike is designed to make this easy on level ground.

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It is easy to get it up on the center stand once you know how. It is easy to learn but until you do it seems impossible. Or at least I thought so.

 

Here's how I do it now. With the bike on its side stand and wheel straight ahead, I push down the center stand with my right foot until it touches the ground. I have my left hand on the handle bar and my right hand on the rear seat hand grip. Then I straighten the bike up until the other leg of the center stand touches the ground. It is easy to tell. The next part is easy to do but hard to explain. I push down with my foot on the center stand to use leverage to raise the bike. I tug on the hand grip, not to lift the bike but to help me push against the center stand. The bike is designed to make this easy on level ground.

 

It supposed to be on the center stand to set the pressure. It really helps if theres all ready some pressure in the system, makes the bike higher.

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thanks for the info if i need the stand I'll use 2-4s or bigger. but for every day will do on side stand. i have had to many cuf surgery's to lift or pull the bike. dont want any more. didnt even think about boards. :doh:

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thanks for the info if i need the stand I'll use 2-4s or bigger. but for every day will do on side stand. i have had to many cuf surgery's to lift or pull the bike. dont want any more. didnt even think about boards. :doh:

I recommend something WIDER than a 2x4...you do not want unexpectedly have the rear tire to go off the edge. A section of 2x10 is worth the investment. Sometimes Home Depot has cut scrap cheap. I am neither tall nor big. The center stand use takes practice for some on these "large" bikes. Having my bike since '89...I now know I am getting old when I have to "take my time" getting it on the center stand. Remember your legs are at least 5 times stronger than your arms. It's leg power than gets it done. Note: I do not use a piece of wood ...yet.

Edited by jasonm.
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I am not sure who posted the great photos and instructions for repairing and testing the Class but I want to say thanks. took me two tries to get the solder job fixed, First time I was carefull and precise in my soldering nice clean cone shsped joints that didn't work. Second try using a radio shack butane irom and a not so pretty soldering job and it all works. Actually knew the first try didn't work after taking a meter to it. so persistance will pay off, don't just give up.

 

:080402gudl_prv:

 

 

THANKS!

 

 

Al

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Just checking, you do know the key has to be in the Acc position only for power to go to the controller?? Any other position and the display is dead with the exception of PSI which is painted on the display...

 

i didnot know that now i feel so :doh: that just shows you i got a lot to learn about this bike realy i been turning it on and cranking it up then trying to wiggle the wire harness and plugs

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ok i was messing with the plug on the class last night and heard a clicking noise under the trunk or back in that area i kept playing with it and im guessing i have a broken wire in the harness or the class has something loose on the board past the plug maybe some broken sodder joints is there a way to bypass the class to get it to power up without it being hooked up and pluged in to the harness maybe get it to throw a code or several since its not hooked up :confused24:

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my class works...but is has a loose connection..or maybe needs re soldering.

The system works...but the display doesn't

I have to pop open the coolant reservoir door and reach back with my fingertips to apply pressure to the white plug on the class system.

Then the display works and I can see what's going on.

 

But It works well enough to ride.

Right now I'm fixing cracks and doing body work on my trunk.

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my class works...but is has a loose connection..or maybe needs re soldering.

The system works...but the display doesn't

I have to pop open the coolant reservoir door and reach back with my fingertips to apply pressure to the white plug on the class system.

Then the display works and I can see what's going on.

 

But It works well enough to ride.

Right now I'm fixing cracks and doing body work on my trunk.

 

trader yours sounds like lose soder conections mine i think is a broke wire in the harness i pushed the plug into the board and get nothing i wiggle the wires and i get clicking its raining now so i will take the cage home tonight but will trace wires on the bike before i go

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ok after an extensive search for a brokn wire i have not found one but if i push hard enough on the plu my compressor comes on so i have come to the conclusion that i have more than one bad soder joint and now i have to get a new sodering pencile (last one bit the dust 5 yrs ago) and do some surgery on the class but i noticed nothing lit up on the display of the class when i did ths (pushing the plug in hard ) what am i suppose to see on the display ?:confused24: :confused07:

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did you just have the ign switch on acc for it to work. after you solder the two rows of pins clean the board where there is dirt film with an eraser just to get crud off. that is what i did to get mine functioning. had same problem. took me two trys

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