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First ride impressions


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Welcome to the forum! You should be extremely happy with your new '06 Venture! I picked up my '06 Black Beauty in Jan '11 and been lovin it! Glad you got into the fairing and found some wiring problems, I discovered quite a mess under there when I pulled mine open. Tightened it all up and enclosed it all in wiring seal and no problems since. Just bled all the brakes and clutch, R&R'd the coolant, changed out the plugs, and in the process of removing the lowers, (second time), broke off one of the tips....a little abs cement fixed that...the lowers are a real PITA but the more I play with them the easier it gets...It seems it will run forever if you maintain it, but you may have to fix a few things along the way!!! Ride safe, ride often, and keep the shiny side up!

 

BigDawg

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Cool. I had a CB 160 in high school, some 40 years ago - way after Jesus had one. I bought my 2008 RSV 18 months ago. It had 7800 miles at the time. I noticed the whine on my first interstate ride - kicked in around 50 -55 mph. When I changed the oil, I went with MOTUL 7100 synthetic (10W40). The whine is gone. Just went cross-country (2800 miles), the whine stayed at home.

 

Just another data point.

Edited by TwoStars
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...how do I get the US map in my signature line?

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=25242

 

For about 99% of questions you can use the "Search" function. Go to the "Google Search" section and select the button for venturerider.org. This is always a good starting point for finding information. Then if you can't get what you want post the question.

 

LOL - dare you to do a search on "best oil" or "recommended tires" !

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You'll probably never get rid of the clutch whine. Best advice IMO is to block it by means of a fullface helmet and/or earplugs.

 

The faring is definitely the culprit here. My 97 RSTD had the whine, just like the Venture does. That bike had a quick detach windshield, which I often detached for long spells of riding. Without the windshield I could not hear the whine.

 

First time I ever used a faring was in 1971, when I bought a used Windjammer for my 71 BMW R60/5. My first impression of the thing was, first, the huge amount of engine and road noise being funneled up to my ears by the faring, and second, the distinct air backpressure from the rear. The low-pressure area probably also helped direct noise from the rear end of the bike. So I think pretty much any fully fared bike is going to be noisy with mechanical noises, but quieter from wind blast.

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  • 1 month later...

It may have been said elsewhere, but I would think that the only way to get the whine completely corrected is to also change the gear that the clutch basket gear messes to although that may be extensive to do as it would probably require disassembling the engine and transmission.

 

Any insight on this is appreciated as I may purchase a 2005 that already has a loud whine.

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Friend of mine bought a new 96 Royal Star. He couldn't stand the whine, even though his bike had no windshield. He carped and carped about it to the dealer. They changed out the clutch basket and other things more than once. No improvement. Finally, Yamaha agreed to put a completely new motor into the bike. Motor arrived in crate. Shop installed motor. New motor had the same whine.

 

My wife had an 05 Roadstar, a "knocker" (if you know the Roadstars, you probably know what the "knock" is... equivalent to the whine on the venture, I suppose). After lots of back and forth with the dealer and the importer in CA, Yam agreed to put a new motor into the bike. New motor had a knock in it, too, just like the original.

 

Again, lots of blood sweat and tears have been spilt chasing this whine problem. Best advice is, try to ignore it. Put something in or around your ears to block the noise, and it won't exist.

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I've grown to tolerate the whine...mainly with gear selection. My only issue anymore is the twitchy handling and instability. Leveling links arrived yesterday...really hoping that fixes it

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I'm always confused when I see any posts about twitchy handling, stability, etc. on the RSV. My '99 is one of the most stable bikes I have ever owned and I've owned a lot of bikes. With decent tires, proper inflation and steering head bearings properly tightened, I've never had a moments issue with handling. I do have the leveling links but had no problem before adding them either. I've also always run the standard size from tire. Though some folks really like the smaller front tire, I've heard a few comments that some folks didn't like the handling after installing it. Mostly that was when used in conjunction with the leveling links though.

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I'm always confused when I see any posts about twitchy handling, stability, etc. on the RSV. My '99 is one of the most stable bikes I have ever owned and I've owned a lot of bikes.

 

Same here. If it weren't for the Venture's supreme high speed stability and terrific cockpit ergonomics, I'd be riding something else fer shure. For a bike that sits high, has a heavy HANDLEBAR MOUNTED FARING (usually a prescription for wobbly handling), and enormous fuel tank on top of the frame rather than below the saddle, the Venture is a wonder of good handling. Not only is it stable at speed, the bike also handles very well in the turns. I ride mine up and down mountain roads all the time. With a firm hand on the bars, the Venture is the equal or superior of any bike, new or old. I say this as one who has put over 100k miles on four different Goldwings including a GL1800, and also owned a Kaw Voyager (55k miles). The Venture is superior to those, IMO.

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Man...i wish I could say the same. I.ve had various bikes since '85...usually sportbikes. I was always impressed with the touring bikes whipping through the safety course while I struggled on my sportbike. I've never ridden a worse handling bike than this venture. Makes me hesitate to carry a passenger as that just makes it worse. I initially chalked it up to stock tires with 10k on them, I changed to E3's and only marginally better. Snugged my steering head bearing too. Hoping these levelling links are the magic bullet

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My first impression of the Venture was the same. I hated it. It kept making me afraid of tipping it over. Tranny was stiff shifting. But I've had this same reaction to a few bikes that I later came to love, so I stuck with it. I was still ambivalent about the bike six months later. the first time I started to love the bike was a day I rode along with a group of other riders, mostly on Harleys. There was one guy with a police bike that had been converted to civilian trim. A real nice bike, and very good handling in the mountain turns, and this rider was confident that he was the best one there, put himself out in front, and was tending to ride a mile or two in front of everyone else. Well I locked in behind this guy and eventually realized that I was out-riding him. My much heavier, taller full-fared bike was outmaneuvering him, and soon I was out in front by a mile. Once I trusted the bike to stay where I put it, I liked it a lot. Up until then I wasn't trusting the bike. I would fight it especially in turns. Lean off the opposite side from the turn, subconsciously.

 

And I had this crazy idea that the motor has to be kept up bouncing off the rev limiter all the time. So Once I relaxed and trusted the bike, and started riding it normally, everything fell into place and there was Zen.

 

The Venture grooves on open highway at 85, and equally so on mountain roads with tight hairpins. I don't know how those guys got it so right with such an old design.

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Guest tx2sturgis

No one chimed in on the heel-toe shifter yet.

 

Now...everyone is different, so someone is BOUND to have another method, but here is the way I use the heel-toe shifter:

 

All normal shifts when moving are done exactly the same way as without a heel-toe linkage:

 

1 down, 4 up, and then 4 back down, using the toe shifter, with the toe of my boot. I NEVER use the heel to upshift when moving.

 

When stopped or parked and trying to find neutral, motor running or not, I use the heel shifter, and ease down on it (with the heel of my boot) a half-notch to find neutral. With the toe of my boot resting on the footboard, its VERY easy to push down with the heel of my boot and find neutral.

 

Other riders will probably have other ways they use that thing...and thats good...you can try them and then see which way suits you best. It may end up easier for you to use a combination of methods. But I spent many years on bikes with the normal toe-shifting lever, and its hard to unlearn that way of shifting, at least for me.

 

Enjoy the bike, and I'm glad you found us.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Well, I'm officially a Venture owner. Picked up my '06 with 8900 miles Saturday morning and rode it the 4 hours home. Never been on any sort of touring bike before, I was extremely impressed, almost felt spoiled :)

 

I'm familiar with the engine (in Vmax tune) and was happy with the torque and horsepower. Never used a heel-toe shifter before...so felt like a complete rookie and mis-shifted several times :) I couldn't believe it doesn't come with a tach....that confused me for the whole ride. I seriously pushed every button I could find...no tach. But did find the 12 volt aux and the clock :)

 

Wasn't happy with the high frequency whine at certain RPM's. The Vmax has it too....but the fairing an this funnels the noise right to the rider. I know it's a normal noise...guessing it comes from the valve train? Anyone have fixes for this...or should I be in a lower gear? I'm hoping some synthetic oil might quiet it down.

 

I definitely need the driver backrest...at 6'2", I find I slouch too much.

 

Lastly, I purchased a cheap MP3 player and plugged it into the aux (once I got home) and it's not working? The stereo and CB work...didn't try the cassette though....any simple checks? I read through installing the splitter behind the fairing, straight into the amp...and may do that.

 

Didn't play much with the headset and the CB....couldn't do it all in 1 day :)

 

Overall (so far) was exactly what I was looking for....now just want to get out and ride :)

 

 

Welcome to the forum and the best handling bike on the road. I really like the cherry red color.

1)If the whine doesn't bother you don't worry about it. If it does oil and clutch baskets are possible fixes.

2)Saddlebag guard rails are easily straightened by bending. Take them off and put one end in a vice and gently bend until you are satisfied with the angle.

3)The CB antenna with the loading coil goes on your left as you are riding.

4)Lots of touring bikes dont come with a tach. Go figgure. Hit the rev limiter a few times and you can learn to shift by the speedo or there are lots of tach options available. I installed a cheap ($35) one wire hookup on mine just for occasional reference.

 

I have noticed my Venture's handling improves with my experience. Practice u-turns at every opportunity and the top heaviness will tend to fade away.

 

Best Wishes

Mike

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No one chimed in on the heel-toe shifter yet.

 

Oh yeah, heel shifter. I don't like 'em. I just cut the rear portion off with a hacksaw. It's pretty soft metal and cuts quickly. paint the exposed cut metal and that's that.

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Guest tx2sturgis

 

Oh yeah, heel shifter. I don't like 'em. I just cut the rear portion off with a hacksaw. It's pretty soft metal and cuts quickly. paint the exposed cut metal and that's that.

 

 

Yeah that's another 'method'...

 

;-)

 

 

 

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I'm always confused when I see any posts about twitchy handling, stability, etc. on the RSV. My '99 is one of the most stable bikes I have ever owned and I've owned a lot of bikes. With decent tires, proper inflation and steering head bearings properly tightened, I've never had a moments issue with handling. I do have the leveling links but had no problem before adding them either. I've also always run the standard size from tire. Though some folks really like the smaller front tire, I've heard a few comments that some folks didn't like the handling after installing it. Mostly that was when used in conjunction with the leveling links though.

 

I can sympathize with others who say that the RSV isn't a nice handling bike at low speeds and yes, the leveling links helped a lot but after 100,000 miles on the bike on slabs and back roads, I absolutely love the bike.. On the highway and back roads at speeds the bike handles great. Most people find the low speed stability and handling of the bike quite difficult, as did I at first but with a lot of practice, it gets a lot better. I had taken the advanced riders course several times and burnt out the clutch a couple of times (keeping the revs way tooooo high).. I finally sorted out that problem with some more practice and able to keep the revs a lot lower and able to perform the maneuvers properly.. With the bike properly dialed in; steering head bearings, proper tire inflation, leveling links, adjusted throttle cables and flushed clutch system, adjusted rear swing arm and equal pressure front forks, you can do wonders with this large bike..

 

There are a few tricks and techniques that help a lot with slow handling of this bike that most already know about but for those who haven't tried it yet, here's a few.. Keeping the revs up a tad keeps the bike stable while dragging the rear brake while turning the bike sharply at slow speeds. (Take a few breaks in between runs to allow the bike to cool off helps as well) Sitting closer to the tank places you in a better position on the bike and leaning your shoulders forward while turning the bars also helps getting the bike around.. One of the big fear factors I had with the bike in the beginning was that feeling of the bike wanting to drop when I locked the steering against the stops.. But gently popping the clutch (gently) will pick the bike upright.. usually at that point where you feel you have to peg your foot down to prevent the bike from toppling over, pop the clutch a bit and it brings the bike back up.. It did take me a while to get that technique right but wow, it does wonders..

 

Don't be afraid to lean the bike over hard in slow speed maneuvers, you can do this by riding one butt cheek on the high side of the seat when turning.. (if turning to the left, the bike leans hard to the left thereby tilting the ride side of the seat up, and you have more weight on your right butt cheek on the seat, sitting almost upright, leaning forward a bit as you turn the bars..) it feels weird at first but wow, it does wonders for pulling a u-turn within a two and a half car parking space..

 

I used to have a lot of trouble trying to do the "iron cross" in a 10 meter square setup, but now able to do it in an 8 meter square setup.. its a lot of work but it's doable with a lot of practice, and it builds your confidence to toss this big bike around tight corners and small spaces..

 

Don't forget that riding it 90% mental and 10% physical (perhaps 15% physical because of the weight and size of this bike ;) but you have to push yourself to keep trying and practicing with this big bike to get confident in being able to make those slow speed turns. Luckily the bike has nice guards under it for in case you do drop the bike and most likely you will until you get your skills up, but for me, it was worth the few times the bike did drop against the guards..

 

As for the heel toe shifter on this bike? ergh, I'd like to chop off that back part but the only time I do use it is to tap the bike into neutral when not sitting on it.. just a gentle tap down on the heel part (when in 1st gear) and it finds neutral nicely.. The other reason I don't want to chop it off if in case I injure my big toe then I would need it.. ya never know lol..

 

There are some nice handling big bikes out there, the Goldwings, Victory Cross Countries and Electraglides that can toss and turn well, but the Venture can keep up no probs, but you have to practice a lot.. The Venture seems to have it all, though.. she'll go all day and then some more..

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Installed the levelling links last night...amazingly easy process. Made a world of difference. My front tire still feels a little funky at speed. Going to check the steering head again using Eck's instructions....because that is what it feels like to me

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OK...update (and thanks for all the great input)

 

Thumbs up for the leveling links.....major improvement. I've never ridden another big touring bike like a Wing or Voyager...so can't compare. All I can say is handling was terrible compared to any other bike I've ridden. Switching from stock rubber to E3's really had no effect...I'm guessing because everything else was so bad...

 

Fixing the rake and trail with those links, is something the factory should have done. 75% improvement at any and all speeds.

 

My other problem...is I didn't tighten the head bearing much the first time. Put it up on stands again, followed everyone's advice and ended up tightening nearly a quarter turn. Made another huge improvement as you could imagine.

 

I can live with the handling now, and hopefully learn to love it. Don't think any more adjustments are needed for the time being.

 

As someone posted early on...I won't form any permanent opinions until I get 5k on it...but can tell you it's been a step in the right direction for sure. I'm definitely way more comfortable with it already. Did some figure 8's and tight U turns in the YMCA lot after I got the links installed. Not too bad, tighter than I could do on my ZZR :)

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You aren't riding on rain grooves are you? Rain grooves in concrete upset most tires to some degree, some worse than others. I was riding over a few miles of grooves today and remembered this thread.. it occurred to me that maybe you've got a lot of that type of surface where you ride, too.

 

And a note about the head bearings. I've ridden this bike with a very loose head bearing, so loose that it really clunked a lot, yet the bike was totally stable at high speeds. I'd only get some wobble during a hands-off-the-bars decel as the bike passed through about 40 mph. Other than that, and the clunking, at high speeds there was no indication whatever of the loose bearing. YMMV, of course.

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No rain grooves...just 2 lane roads with the usual tar snakes etc. Maybe have a bigger problem with the front wheel bearings, rear swingarm, or rear wheel bearings.

 

Not too worried about it now as she's riding pretty good.

 

Might have to switch somebody at a future MD or ride...if they think theirs handles solid and see what they think of mine. I bet 50% is me still getting used to a top heavy touring bike...but still think I have something fishy....and it just was amplified with the loose steering head bearing..

 

No further handling mods planned until winter (if then). Next is just going through the carbs for float heights and A/F screws...been putting that off for a few weeks because she is running so darn good....doesn't seem important :)

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If you've got your steering head pretty snug, then there is almost no chance handling problems are coming from there. Unless you got it TOO snug. Back in the day many larger motorcycles came from the factory with a tensioner device on the steering head. My 71 BMW R60, for example, had a black plastic knob. The knob was located where our steering head nut lives. It allowed the rider to snug up the steering head, or loosen it a bit, to fit his riding moment.

 

So, you could actually snug that thing down to where the steering barely moved at all. And if you did that while riding in a straight and level attitude, you'd suddenly lose fine control. I can remember the first time I did that, out of curiosity. The loss of control was scary! And maybe just maybe this is why we don't find these tensioner devices on motorcycles anymore. The steering has to move freely. If it can't move freely, then it can't make those constant tiny back-and-forth movements that are barely detectable, that keep you going in a straight line, or make you turn. Obviously, it doesn't want to move so freely that the steering pipe bangs around in the bearings. That's why the factory sets out a torque calibration on the bearing nut to achieve that just-right balance between too much and too little tension.

 

So, maybe just maybe you've got TOO MUCH tension on the bearing. Again, the result of this would be a bike that is very difficult to control in a straight line.

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