Big_Iz Posted May 9, 2012 Share #1 Posted May 9, 2012 As both a procrastinator and one who's latest promotion has consumed a ton of my free time, I admit that I have had almost all of these parts sitting on the shelf for a full year. What a colossal mistake on my part. The last bit I was holding out on was a 14mm master cylinder. I found what I wanted on eBay last week -- had to strip and refinish, but that took less time than I expected. Skydoc_17 had provided the SS lines (I asked him to special order black so it would look more like stock and it does) and VMax splitter; all of which were still in the sealed USPS box that he mailed them to me in. I cleaned and painted my eBay sourced R1 calipers solid black to get rid of the blue anodized stars. Installation was straightforward and uneventful. Since I already had the bike torn down for the valve adjustment (another big thank you to skydoc_17) it was a couple days before I could get it on the street. My initial impression was, lets say much below satisfactory. I was actually pissed within the first 2 stops at how much time I had put into the project. To be fair, I had gone cheap and reused whatever pads (still had good meat, no idea what brand) were loaded in the calipers. Fortunately, my local shop had a pair of the EBC HH pads on the shelf. Second impression was light years ahead. I couldn't have asked for a better result. The albino water buffalo now bleeds off speed equivalent or better than any other big touring bike I have ever owned or ridden. If you are on the fence, let me shove you over to the other side. Even if you stick with the stock 5/8" master cylinder, its a step in the right direction. Iz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crowrod Posted May 9, 2012 Share #2 Posted May 9, 2012 On a scale of one to ten how much better? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big_Iz Posted May 9, 2012 Author Share #3 Posted May 9, 2012 I would rate the OEM setup with OEM pads about a 4 on the scale -- in my opinion, on the edge of being dangerously low on power. In comparison, I would rate my new setup at a 9 -- considering the mass of that large of a bike, the way I look at it, a 10 would be dangerous at the other end of the spectrum, being overpowered and prone to lockup or uncontrolled braking in adverse conditions if that makes sense. Maybe that helps, maybe that just makes it more like mud Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skydoc_17 Posted May 9, 2012 Share #4 Posted May 9, 2012 Hey Iz, Thank you very much for those kind words! My hat's off to you for taking on two of the most sorely needed projects that can be done to a Second Gen. The Valve Adjustment, and the R1 Caliper Swap! As I have said before, I get "all warm and fuzzy" when I see the owner of one of these wonderful machines take it upon himself (or herself) to do these kinds of projects on their motorcycles. So the next time you are riding with your friends, and one of them says to you, "what have you been up to lately", you can say, "Oh, I did a valve adjustment on my 16 VALVE motorcycle, and installed color matched S.S. brake lines and R1 Calipers on my bike as well, what have you been up to?" Well, my friends, that is PRICELESS! Ya' done GOOD Iz! Earl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big_Iz Posted May 9, 2012 Author Share #5 Posted May 9, 2012 I have always done my own work, but I admit that this is the first shim/bucket valve adjustment I have undertaken. Disassembly of the RSV was tedious and intimidating this first time, but thankfully I had extra time this week to not have to rush. Tomorrow starts the teardown of the VStrom to do its overdue valve adjustment -- at least those cams are gear driven at the head, so you don't have to fight with the chain. Earl, I would like to try to sort some of the shims for you before I send the kit back, but I'll get it in the mail by Friday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reddevilmedic Posted May 9, 2012 Share #6 Posted May 9, 2012 i have to chime in...even after my bleeding issues (faulty master), im also impressed with my 83's stopping ability. i did the stainless upgrade, vmax splitter, delink, rebuilt rear caliper (thanks earl!) and HH pads all around on stock calipers. HUGE increase in stopping ability. its real nice feeling those front brakes again.... now if i could just get it out of the garage after a stator failure....i plan on riding to Freebirds. if all goes well, i will continue straight to Blue Ridge, then to florida keys....and back.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twigg Posted May 9, 2012 Share #7 Posted May 9, 2012 I have always done my own work, but I admit that this is the first shim/bucket valve adjustment I have undertaken. Disassembly of the RSV was tedious and intimidating this first time, but thankfully I had extra time this week to not have to rush. Tomorrow starts the teardown of the VStrom to do its overdue valve adjustment -- at least those cams are gear driven at the head, so you don't have to fight with the chain. Earl, I would like to try to sort some of the shims for you before I send the kit back, but I'll get it in the mail by Friday. It's a daunting job that is actually ridiculously easy with the correct tools, and saves enough in Dealer fees to buy another project. Good Job! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twigg Posted May 9, 2012 Share #8 Posted May 9, 2012 i have to chime in...even after my bleeding issues (faulty master), im also impressed with my 83's stopping ability. i did the stainless upgrade, vmax splitter, delink, rebuilt rear caliper (thanks earl!) and HH pads all around on stock calipers. HUGE increase in stopping ability. its real nice feeling those front brakes again.... now if i could just get it out of the garage after a stator failure....i plan on riding to Freebirds. if all goes well, i will continue straight to Blue Ridge, then to florida keys....and back.. Not on that Corbin seat ... they are hard as iron. :rotf: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reddevilmedic Posted May 9, 2012 Share #9 Posted May 9, 2012 Not on that Corbin seat ... they are hard as iron. :rotf: no hijacking!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wizard Posted May 9, 2012 Share #10 Posted May 9, 2012 hey Big_Iz, why did you have to fight the chain? Did you remove the cams to make the adjustments to the shims? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big_Iz Posted May 9, 2012 Author Share #11 Posted May 9, 2012 hey Big_Iz, why did you have to fight the chain? Did you remove the cams to make the adjustments to the shims? I didn't mess with the chain on the RSV. With the tool, the RSV was the easiest adjustment procedure I have ever done (except for the tear down/reassembly). I was referring to my other bike, the VStrom 1000, of which I don't have to mess with the chain either, compared to the next one lined up, a ZX-9R, which will probably be the biggest pain of them all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted May 11, 2012 Share #12 Posted May 11, 2012 The last bit I was holding out on was a 14mm master cylinder. I found what I wanted on eBay last week -- Iz So, what model and year has the 14mm opening? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big_Iz Posted May 11, 2012 Author Share #13 Posted May 11, 2012 02-05 Road Star 1700 is what mine came from. Looks the same as OEM, other than the stock says 5/8 (lower left relative to the sight glass) and the Road Star says 14. Mine came in a little rough for my taste, so I stripped the clear coat, wet sanded, restored the factory brush/buff lines with a 000 steel wool pad, and sprayed with clear lacquer. You wouldn't know it wasn't new. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
playboy Posted May 11, 2012 Share #14 Posted May 11, 2012 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big_Iz Posted May 12, 2012 Author Share #15 Posted May 12, 2012 Fair enough! http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l115/Big_Iz/stuff/photobucket-21311-1336780621837.jpg http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l115/Big_Iz/stuff/photobucket-21309-1336780620103.jpg http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l115/Big_Iz/stuff/photobucket-36348-1336780620965.jpg http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l115/Big_Iz/stuff/IMG_20120508_172850.jpg And the obligatory bike shot... http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l115/Big_Iz/stuff/photobucket-21589-1336780618331.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted May 12, 2012 Share #16 Posted May 12, 2012 Very nice job. Interesting how far down on the master cylinder the 'full' line is though. Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big_Iz Posted May 12, 2012 Author Share #17 Posted May 12, 2012 I thought that was the LOW line. I should know this since I have had it apart so much, isn't there sort of a lip or ring about 3/8" down from the top on the inside that indicates full (about the depth of the rubber boot when fully collapsed)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted May 12, 2012 Share #18 Posted May 12, 2012 I thought that was the LOW line. I should know this since I have had it apart so much, isn't there sort of a lip or ring about 3/8" down from the top on the inside that indicates full (about the depth of the rubber boot when fully collapsed)? Never having worked on the RSV, I did not know about upper limit. I try to keep my 1st gen upper & lower in the window. To full can be as bad as to low. Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big_Iz Posted May 12, 2012 Author Share #19 Posted May 12, 2012 Agreed on it being too full, especially when you top it off just before you replace worn pads with nice thick new ones Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bongobobny Posted May 12, 2012 Share #20 Posted May 12, 2012 Checked fleabay today and the only master from a Road Star is a bit rashed up and they want $85!! Guess I'll wait a while to upgrade the front master. I got a set of gold dot R1's this week as well as SS lines from Earl and EBC HH pads so I'm ready to go else wise. I'm going to paint my calipers silver and clearcoat them. Kind of proud of the gold dots so I'll keep hem gold... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big_Iz Posted May 12, 2012 Author Share #21 Posted May 12, 2012 Go ahead and run them with the stock M/C. It will work, many will say just as good, and you get at least partial benefit while you wait for a M/C to float your way. The 14mm M/C will give you better feel, fine control and more power per equivalent power of pull on the lever, but the 5/8 will still work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted May 13, 2012 Share #22 Posted May 13, 2012 Whats on ebay right now isnt worth pursuing. Master looks pretty well chewed up. If one comes along within the next few weeks then ill get it, otherwise ill live with my 5/8 one. I have it all nice and polished, looks almost like chrome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hotrod Posted May 13, 2012 Share #23 Posted May 13, 2012 Hey Big Iz,where did you get the Venture M/C covers?I have never seen any like them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big_Iz Posted May 13, 2012 Author Share #24 Posted May 13, 2012 The covers were on the bike when I picked it up last year -- sorry, can't help you there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atoolnut Posted May 18, 2012 Share #25 Posted May 18, 2012 Great reading I will be attemting this upgrade this fall...I wa told that V star 1100 front master cylinder is a 14 mm...is this correct? if so will this work thanks Les Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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