Marcarl Posted February 25, 2012 Share #1 Posted February 25, 2012 Here's my problem,,, I know, I got lots but this one has me stumped. My son bought a 82 Honda XL80s for my grandson. It was running and they did run it around the back yard a few times, but then it quit. So dad to the rescue. I've been working on this thing for 4 weeks now, and it just won't run, not even give me a burp. That said, I did have it running at one point, but the slowest it would go was about 3000 rpm, so I shut it down and since then, nothing. History. When I brought it to my garage I found the stator flywheel loose and the key sheared off. replaced the key, points, condenser, cleaned the flywheel, (took all magnets out and re-glued them) cleaned the carb, tried 3 different coils, but seem to get an inconsistent spark at best. Got about 90 lbs compression with 3 kicks on the starter, 120lbs with a shot of oil in the cylinder. Tried WD 40 to help it fire and then even some ether, but no fire period. I need some fresh ideas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yammer Dan Posted February 25, 2012 Share #2 Posted February 25, 2012 Positioning of magnets is very touchey. Sure you got them right? Been a long time since I been in one of those. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bongobobny Posted February 25, 2012 Share #3 Posted February 25, 2012 So is the strength of the magnets! You should be able to put a dwell meter on the ignition to make sure there is proper functioning for ignition... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcarl Posted February 25, 2012 Author Share #4 Posted February 25, 2012 Positioning of magnets is very touchey. Sure you got them right? Been a long time since I been in one of those. Magnets are bolt located, so no movement possible,,,, but, can they be put in backwards? So is the strength of the magnets! You should be able to put a dwell meter on the ignition to make sure there is proper functioning for ignition... Best explain the procedure on this, I have a dwell meter, and this is a kicker only. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carbon_One Posted February 25, 2012 Share #5 Posted February 25, 2012 Possibly the timing is off?? Do you get any spark at all? Larry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkuhr Posted February 25, 2012 Share #6 Posted February 25, 2012 Possibly the timing is off?? Do you get any spark at all? Larry :sign yeah that:maybe slipped timing cam chain. Try to verify TDC and I&E valves closed near same spot as breaker points Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wes0778 Posted February 25, 2012 Share #7 Posted February 25, 2012 Going WAY back in the recesses of my feeble brain; Point gap is really critical on these small engines. I can't tell on this one, but I suspect the timing plate(where the points are mounted) is not adjustable, so the point gap determines not only the dwell, but the timing as well. The gap is best adjusted using a battery powered circuit tester. Put the tester across the points. when the points are closed, the test light is on. Turn the engine in direction of rotation toward TDC of the compression stroke. Just when the timing marks line up, the points should open and the test light goes out. Narrowing the gap retards the timing, increasing the gap advances the timing. Hope this procedure works on this engine, like it did on the ones I worked on in the late 1960s. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcarl Posted February 25, 2012 Author Share #8 Posted February 25, 2012 Possibly the timing is off?? Do you get any spark at all? Larry Timing is right on. Yes I have got spark, but wonder if it is strong enough, so it's got me wondering on the strength of the magneto :sign yeah that:maybe slipped timing cam chain. Try to verify TDC and I&E valves closed near same spot as breaker points Yep, that all seems to work proper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yammer Dan Posted February 25, 2012 Share #9 Posted February 25, 2012 Don't remember if magnets could be reversed. Sure you got fuel coming in ? How bad did you flood those plugs. This new gas will ruin one if flooded too bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MidlifeVenture Posted February 25, 2012 Share #10 Posted February 25, 2012 So if electrical side is working have we started fuel I've seen things that age with so much rust in the tank it plugs everything solid did you put gas directly in the cylinder? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldgoat Posted February 25, 2012 Share #11 Posted February 25, 2012 my niece has a honda xl75 we bought her. not sure if its the same or even close to yours? but before we bought it we checked the compression. and at 2 kicks it was 110? now i could be wrong and i have been before but i think 90lbs is kind of knocking on heavens door? hers is cold bloodied? when its 30 out side? but after about 2 minutes it warms up for her? but the PO claims he did a top end on it? never found the records for that?. but it does run good for her. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcarl Posted February 25, 2012 Author Share #12 Posted February 25, 2012 So if electrical side is working have we started fuel I've seen things that age with so much rust in the tank it plugs everything solid did you put gas directly in the cylinder? The tank was rusty, very rusty, cleaned that up and the carb again. It's the electrical I'm wondering about. I know it sparks at times, sometimes stronger, sometimes not so good. How does one tell if the magneto is working up to snuff? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiCarl Posted February 25, 2012 Share #13 Posted February 25, 2012 90PSI is low, but it should light with ether. Have you tried a different plug? Fuel fouled plugs won't fire UNLESS there's another open, like a poor ground laying it up against the head. Screw them in and they're shorted out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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